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  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by hafjell View Post
    Anyone using anything thinner? Thinking of something for just rapping like a Petzl RAD.
    Thinner means you won't be leading on it unless you're going with double/twin ropes. There's not much in the sub 9 mm range yet and it really is for limited applications, you're not going to work your sport project on an 8.7 mm rope (unless your pockets are way deep). I use a 9.1 or 9.2 when I have to walk far (using one of the BD ropes lately) and a cheap 9.8 when the crag is close or I know there will be lots of top-ropes or other shenanigans.
    As far as the Petzl RAD system goes, it's not really climbing-oriented and 30 m is a deal breaker. I have a dedicated 8 mm static rope I bought years ago to use for rappelling on long routes only but it's a PITA to trail. IMO you'd be better of with a dedicated 6 or 7 mm rappel/pull cord carried in a pack to supplement the lead rope. Seems to be the most common system you see in places with long ass routes like Red Rock.
    Regular single rope + 6 or 7 mm pull line

  2. #27
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    Sep 2016
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post
    Thinner means you won't be leading on it unless you're going with double/twin ropes. There's not much in the sub 9 mm range yet and it really is for limited applications, you're not going to work your sport project on an 8.7 mm rope (unless your pockets are way deep). I use a 9.1 or 9.2 when I have to walk far (using one of the BD ropes lately) and a cheap 9.8 when the crag is close or I know there will be lots of top-ropes or other shenanigans.
    As far as the Petzl RAD system goes, it's not really climbing-oriented and 30 m is a deal breaker. I have a dedicated 8 mm static rope I bought years ago to use for rappelling on long routes only but it's a PITA to trail. IMO you'd be better of with a dedicated 6 or 7 mm rappel/pull cord carried in a pack to supplement the lead rope. Seems to be the most common system you see in places with long ass routes like Red Rock.
    Regular single rope + 6 or 7 mm pull line
    Got it, thank you. Was thinking of using it only to rappel while skiing. Wondering if the climbing crew had any experience with super thin lines for that.

  3. #28
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    Oh for skiing the RAD would work great. I've never rapped on a 6 mm line though, it's way skinny. You'd definitely want to use a munter or a re-direct if going with a belay device or you'll burn a hole in your gloves. I have a 30 m 7 mm line and always feel a bit spooked when I rappel something vertical, the weight of the pack/skis/gear is noticeable. Mine is dynamic for the rare times I'd want to rope up and lead a pitch.

  4. #29
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    Nov 2007
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    I've rapped my fat ass on two strands of 6mm perlon (static) using carabiner brake method, 3 cross biners I think

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by GeezerSteve View Post
    I've rapped my fat ass on two strands of 6mm perlon (static) using carabiner brake method, 3 cross biners I think
    As long as you put enough friction in the system it's fine, agreed. I just wouldn't expect to send it on a standard ATC without things getting a bit heated...

  6. #31
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    May 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post
    Oh for skiing the RAD would work great. I've never rapped on a 6 mm line though, it's way skinny. You'd definitely want to use a munter or a re-direct if going with a belay device or you'll burn a hole in your gloves. I have a 30 m 7 mm line and always feel a bit spooked when I rappel something vertical, the weight of the pack/skis/gear is noticeable. Mine is dynamic for the rare times I'd want to rope up and lead a pitch.
    This. I've rapped off a munter on a RAD and it was kind of terrifying (just weird trusting your weight to something so skinny). But man did that thing feel good in the pack compared to any other rope I've used.

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by lazyasian View Post
    This. I've rapped off a munter on a RAD and it was kind of terrifying (just weird trusting your weight to something so skinny). But man did that thing feel good in the pack compared to any other rope I've used.
    Thanks for the replies. I've heard of folks stuffing both ends through one notch/side of an ATC. I've heard of using the Edelrid MicroJul. Also a super munter. Just wish Petzl would make a specific rap device for it.

  8. #33
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    You also may be able to use a standard ATC for rapping if you use two, identical biners to increase friction through your device. One other thing to check out would be determining if some 4mm cord will work for backing up your rap with a prussic knot.

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bronco View Post
    You also may be able to use a standard ATC for rapping if you use two, identical biners to increase friction through your device. One other thing to check out would be determining if some 4mm cord will work for backing up your rap with a prussic knot.
    Would you oppose and reverse the carabiners?
    Have also heard of folks using 5mm cord for the prussic.
    I imagine the H-profile carabiners will work better. Something like the Petzl Attache or the Sm'D.

  10. #35
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    I've read this a hundred times; guess I have to trust it.
    Interesting that the two lockers aren't the same (am I reading it correctly: one H and one round profile?) and are not opposed. Does the rope need a consistent surface to run across (which wouldn't be provided by two opposed D's)?

  11. #36
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    May 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by hafjell View Post
    I've read this a hundred times; guess I have to trust it.
    Interesting that the two lockers aren't the same (am I reading it correctly: one H and one round profile?) and are not opposed. Does the rope need a consistent surface to run across (which wouldn't be provided by two opposed D's)?
    I think it means that you can use round or H lockers - see a bit further below where it shows a single locker and still shows the round and H logos. I don't see why they would have to be different - but I've always used a munter with thinner ropes so my knowledge is admittedly limited.

    I'm also curious about why they are not opposite and opposed though!

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by lazyasian View Post
    I'm also curious about why they are not opposite and opposed though!
    The 2 biners are purely to increase friction. They could be opposed for added safety but I think the argument is that if one locker is good enough, 2 is simply overkill and treating them as non-locking biners (which you have to oppose) is not necessary.

  13. #38
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    May 2017
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    From this season on I will use a RAD Line by Petzl for the intended use on ski tours: rappels and Glacier Travel.

    I think for the rappels you should go with two binders that have a big cross section and a atc/ reverso. Rappeling with a munter hitch has always been a pain in the ass but there are / will be special eights to handle the new super thin ropes. You could consider this as well.

    For glacier travel I would go with the Petzl (no other brand) as they have a special design of the surface to go with the tribloc.

  14. #39
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    Mar 2008
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    Boulder
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    For quick ski belays and cuts, I find standard ATC use is pretty good on the 5.5-6mm skinnies. For steeper raps, Iíve found that stuffing both ropes into a single slot gives immensely more control than the double-biners, and doesnít require the extra gear. I was using an already small DMM bugette, and the control improvement for a single notch was significant.

  15. #40
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    Super munter works really well on skinny ropes, or even a single skinny rope and it doesn't twist it

    Sent from my moto g(6) using TGR Forums mobile app

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by trogdortheburninator View Post
    For quick ski belays and cuts, I find standard ATC use is pretty good on the 5.5-6mm skinnies. For steeper raps, I’ve found that stuffing both ropes into a single slot gives immensely more control than the double-biners, and doesn’t require the extra gear. I was using an already small DMM bugette, and the control improvement for a single notch was significant.
    Thanks. I've heard that. There's no added stress to the ATC is there?
    Have you used this technique on free raps (off overhanging terrain)?
    And what are you using for a prusik?

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by rod9301 View Post
    Super munter works really well on skinny ropes, or even a single skinny rope and it doesn't twist it
    Thanks. I need to practice that one.

  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeoK View Post
    From this season on I will use a RAD Line by Petzl for the intended use on ski tours: rappels and Glacier Travel.
    Report back!

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by hafjell View Post
    Report back!
    Iím interested in where folks are purchasing their RAD lines. Retail price is a bit steep.

  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bronco View Post
    I’m interested in where folks are purchasing their RAD lines. Retail price is a bit steep.
    Me too. I haven't seen any deals. I suspect Petzl didn't over-produce, and they haven't come out with an update so the stock can sit for a year at the shop and not go into the sale bin.

  21. #46
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    Nov 2018
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    outer spokanistan
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    i still crag and TR with ~10.5 60m,
    skinny ropes stretch too much
    and dont last long.......

    on the other hand,
    i like ~9.6
    for a redpoint max.....

    back to the food, drink
    and women.
    "we all do dumb shit when we're fucked up" mike tyson

  22. #47
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    May 2012
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    If anyone is interested in backing up the Petzl Rad line, I messed around with some hollow block loops on a 6mm cord and was able to get it to reliably grip with a 4 wrap prussic. Obviously you should test this out on your rap line before using it in the field.

    This stuff here: https://www.backcountry.com/sterling...k-6.8mm-x-13.5

  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bronco View Post
    If anyone is interested in backing up the Petzl Rad line, I messed around with some hollow block loops on a 6mm cord and was able to get it to reliably grip with a 4 wrap prussic. Obviously you should test this out on your rap line before using it in the field.

    This stuff here: https://www.backcountry.com/sterling...k-6.8mm-x-13.5
    I thought about getting this for autoblock.

    Is it supple?

    Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk

  24. #49
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    Sep 2016
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bronco View Post
    If anyone is interested in backing up the Petzl Rad line, I messed around with some hollow block loops on a 6mm cord and was able to get it to reliably grip with a 4 wrap prussic. Obviously you should test this out on your rap line before using it in the field.

    This stuff here: https://www.backcountry.com/sterling...k-6.8mm-x-13.5
    Brilliant. Thanks for the tip. Does it release fine?


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bronco View Post
    If anyone is interested in backing up the Petzl Rad line, I messed around with some hollow block loops on a 6mm cord and was able to get it to reliably grip with a 4 wrap prussic. Obviously you should test this out on your rap line before using it in the field.

    This stuff here: https://www.backcountry.com/sterling...k-6.8mm-x-13.5
    I've been using one of these guys for the past couple seasons as a back up for single line raps and while developing routes. It's easy to get distracted by one of the 45 things dangling off the harness and constantly getting tangled and pull a dumb move like rapping off the end or locking the grigri open and zipping down. That thing has saved my ass a couple times and makes pulling back up a few feet really easy. I've tested it on a 8mm static and it grips really well. Good to hear that it works on 6 mm although I think my favorite rope option for skiing remains a 7.5ish mm dynamic 30 m line. It's super light, very packable, and doesn't shock possibly shitty anchors as much since it's so stretchy. Plenty of friction with a single micro-locker and a belay plate on an overhanging rap.

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