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  1. #1976
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    A bunch of good info today.

    So other than the (inaccurate) gauge on the controller which can't be turned on when charging how would I know those percentages? I've obviously been doing it all wrong, I usually only use 25% or so of the battery capacity then plug it in when I get home. It sketches me out to start a ride not at full charge but I guess if the plan is only for a ride of maybe 10 miles as long as it says I have over 20 in trail mode I should just call it good and go ride.

    I didn't need to use the walk mode last night but will take those hints next time I need it.

  2. #1977
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    For whatever it's worth, I thought the sixc's were pretty good, at least by 35mm standards. I think the enves are a bit better, but both of those bars are more comfortable than most of the others I've tried.

    31.8 carbon might be a good bet, especially if you don't need something super wide.
    Wide shoulders so i cant do the 9 degree sweeps. Renthal seem to fit best. The wrists are a good barometer for that ive found. Not particilarly long arms so 780 seems ok. Maybe even 770 but i couldnt be arsed to chop a nickel off either side

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

  3. #1978
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    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    A bunch of good info today.

    So other than the (inaccurate) gauge on the controller which can't be turned on when charging how would I know those percentages? I've obviously been doing it all wrong, I usually only use 25% or so of the battery capacity then plug it in when I get home. It sketches me out to start a ride not at full charge but I guess if the plan is only for a ride of maybe 10 miles as long as it says I have over 20 in trail mode I should just call it good and go ride.

    I didn't need to use the walk mode last night but will take those hints next time I need it.
    Im with ya on that. I hope the battery anxiety is just me being a newb. Hope to get a better feel for battery life. Ya just never know how much battery is needed. I could sally out on a ride or overdo it as im prone to do

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  4. #1979
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    Quote Originally Posted by SB View Post
    Oar a sticker on the battery next to the charging port.
    Even better

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  5. #1980
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    Aug 2019
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    67
    [QUOTE=gravitylover;5739358]A bunch of good info today.

    So other than the (inaccurate) gauge on the controller which can't be turned on when charging how would I know those percentages? I've obviously been doing it all wrong, I usually only use 25% or so of the battery capacity then plug it in when I get home. It sketches me out to start a ride not at full charge but I guess if the plan is only for a ride of maybe 10 miles as long as it says I have over 20 in trail mode I should just call it good and go ride.

    If you guys know your way around a volt meter you can manage it pretty easily. We need to know your batteries rated voltage, and Amp Hours this is printed on the battery. We then measure it's voltage at full charge. It would also help if you can measure the voltage at 60 and 75 or 80 percent charge. Then we need the rating on your charger. Voltage and amps - it's printed on the charger.

    All the bike batteries seem to have one ground and 2 hot contacts that are slightly different voltages. I think that's to drive the displays and control electronics, but not sure.

    Make damn sure you set the meter to measure voltage! If it's set for amps you'll fry the meter and the battery BMS and brick the battery.

    If your not comfortable with the meter we can probably do it with the numbers on the battery, charger, and use the charge indicated on the bikes battery meter

  6. #1981
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    Tough to do when the battery is inside the frame. On mine you have to pull the motor to get it out, it's about a 90 minute job. Hmm, need to find those specs I guess. The charger has no sticker so I don't know how to find that info. I guess I could call the Norco tech guy.

  7. #1982
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    Aug 2019
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    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    Tough to do when the battery is inside the frame. On mine you have to pull the motor to get it out, it's about a 90 minute job. Hmm, need to find those specs I guess. The charger has no sticker so I don't know how to find that info. I guess I could call the Norco tech guy.
    Really, no markings on the charger?! That seems really strange

  8. #1983
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    Shredgnar - I'm rocking a BBS02 (750w) tuned to put out 1250w on an 04 Rocky Mt Slayer. The thing is a street slayer with buckets of power. In the am if I coast the hill I get to 60 kph, on the way home I can pedal up at 43kph if I'm pedaling hard. I'm running a 42t Chainring on a 9 speed, I never use the easiest 4-5 gears. I tried using the 52 it came with but it messed up my chainline really bad and dropped the chain lots. I could do 70 kph with it though . I've never had overheating problems and I run it flat out most of the time because, why not? BBS02 IS powerful enough, but more is always good if you've got the money. With more power you'll blow shit up though. Ive had people come into the shop with busted chains, skipping teeth, busted freehub dogs, worn out chainrings, threads on threadon cassette stripped on hub are issues I've seen.

    I ran a nexus 3 speed behind my bbs02 for a year with the 52t up front and a 16t at the back. It had enough range to haul ass yet still climb. With the original 22t on the back I never used the low gear even for the steepest streets. The 3 speed managed to survive.

    Make sure you get a shift sensor!

  9. #1984
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    Aug 2019
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    67
    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    Tough to do when the battery is inside the frame. On mine you have to pull the motor to get it out, it's about a 90 minute job. Hmm, need to find those specs I guess. The charger has no sticker so I don't know how to find that info. I guess I could call the Norco tech guy.
    Obviously that's not gonna work lol. Looking at your Norco on line, nice bike! The way this bike is set up presents some challenges. I'm thinking the best way to manage your bike is to use the battery gauge on the bike. Your battery is 17.5 Ah that's about 3.5Ah for each of the 5 bars on your display. That roughly matches the output of your charger - Norco says 4.5 hours to fully charge.

    We can say that from 20 to 80 percent, it probably takes an hour to add each 20 pct increment. Charge rate on these batteries slows way down as it gets closer to full. When the charger is going full bore it gets pretty hot. As it slows down it cools off. So a rough way to approach this would be to allow an hour for each bar up to 80 percent. Past 80 the charger will slow down and cool. You can sort of use this to start checking on the charger (turn it off when it starts to cool) and see how accurate we are when you power up the bike. It's a rough approach but I think it'll do much of what we're trying for. You'll probably get pretty good at matching the battery start level and know how long you'll need to charge. Then you can use a simple ac timer to control the charger.

    Once in a while let the charger top off the battery and turn itself off. That balances the cells but only needs to be done fist charge of the season and then every 4 or 5 charges

  10. #1985
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    Great info.

    A small fan blowing on the charger would help with heat issues on it. Our heavy duty chargers, feeding big lead acid batteries, where I used to work all had fans in them.
    watch out for snakes

  11. #1986
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    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    That's a pretty significant capacity loss. Is there any way you could have changed the loss rate?
    Iím not very techie and just plug it in after almost every ride. I use the e-MTB mostly in the winter or when the weatherís shitty and I need a little juice, just to get out the door.

  12. #1987
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    Apr 2008
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    Mrs and I have been riding Vibrocore for a few years now. We like them. They are stiff. But on long fast chattery stuff, it turns out thatís a good thing. My arthritic hands notice a difference. Iíve seen a few broken carbon bars, and the best coach/rider I know warns against carbon bars, so weíre going to stick with alloy.
    A few years ago, a German bike magazine did a pretty extensive testing of a bunch of carbon bars. The ONLY bar they tested that was consistent through multiple samples of the same bar was the Syntace Vector, which also showed vastly more cycles before failure. The only bar that came remotely close in consistency and failure rate was the Enve bar. So if I were going Carbon, itíd be the Syntace to save my face!


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    If you want me to take a dump in a box and mark it tubeless, I will. I got spare time.

  13. #1988
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iwantmy2dollars View Post
    Obviously that's not gonna work lol. Looking at your Norco on line, nice bike! The way this bike is set up presents some challenges. I'm thinking the best way to manage your bike is to use the battery gauge on the bike. Your battery is 17.5 Ah that's about 3.5Ah for each of the 5 bars on your display. That roughly matches the output of your charger - Norco says 4.5 hours to fully charge.

    We can say that from 20 to 80 percent, it probably takes an hour to add each 20 pct increment. Charge rate on these batteries slows way down as it gets closer to full. When the charger is going full bore it gets pretty hot. As it slows down it cools off. So a rough way to approach this would be to allow an hour for each bar up to 80 percent. Past 80 the charger will slow down and cool. You can sort of use this to start checking on the charger (turn it off when it starts to cool) and see how accurate we are when you power up the bike. It's a rough approach but I think it'll do much of what we're trying for. You'll probably get pretty good at matching the battery start level and know how long you'll need to charge. Then you can use a simple ac timer to control the charger.

    Once in a while let the charger top off the battery and turn itself off. That balances the cells but only needs to be done fist charge of the season and then every 4 or 5 charges
    Awesome, thanks dude! I probably could have come up with that but as my wife says (too often) I'm not so good at thinkin' anymore

  14. #1989
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    Aug 2019
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shredhead View Post
    Iím not very techie and just plug it in after almost every ride. I use the e-MTB mostly in the winter or when the weatherís shitty and I need a little juice, just to get out the door.
    If it's a lead battery, no problem using it like that in winter. If it's Li battery and you charge it indoors with it at room temp and then take it into the cold and allow it to cool below 32 degrees you will damage it. What happens is a cold Li battery cannot hold the same charge at cold temps. If it's fully charged warm, it'll over volt cold and weaken the cells. E cars get around this with various schemes like heaters, very conservative charge voltages etc. If your going out in the cold you should only charge to 70 percent. I know, it's not what you'd expect since Cold reduced the capacity. Let the battery warm back up before charging again.

  15. #1990
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    Aug 2019
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    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    Awesome, thanks dude! I probably could have come up with that but as my wife says (too often) I'm not so good at thinkin' anymore
    Thinking some more about this, is the range indicator a stable reliable figure when fully charged? Or, does it adjust for temp or incline? If it's stable, you can use that to put a pretty fine point on knowing your battery level and how long to charge it. It would also let you use the milage remaining to get pretty close to 65pct for storage

  16. #1991
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    In case anyone missed this travesty on pinkbike.

  17. #1992
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    FTR everyone mocked that including embn and emtb forums. Its just sad

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  18. #1993
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    I get home, put both bikes on the wall and plug them in. Anywhere from 8hrs to 7 days later, I unplug them, set tire pressures and go ride. If youíre checking specific charge levels youíre probably also rocking crank boots, cleaning it with a toothbrush after every ride, and putting a drop of Dijon lube on every link of the chain every ride too. In other words, weíre just totally different people.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    If you want me to take a dump in a box and mark it tubeless, I will. I got spare time.

  19. #1994
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    Quote Originally Posted by grinch View Post
    FTR everyone mocked that including embn and emtb forums. Its just sad

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app
    Definitely. Whoever thought that was a good idea is bad at ideas.

  20. #1995
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    Nov 2005
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    2,826
    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    Definitely. Whoever thought that was a good idea is bad at ideas.
    Had to stop. The first five minutes of that race set e-moped adoption back five years.

  21. #1996
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    Jul 2016
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    113
    that made my friday!! Could not watch more of it than a few minutes, how did it end?

  22. #1997
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    Ya it was funny watching them claim it was a great success. One thing i did take from it was just watching the mullet bike , it looked like the right set up. The same wheeled bike just looked like the front wheel could auger in a soft spot. That and someone shouldve ran out and pointed out the gear shifter to that girl

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  23. #1998
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redsmurfer View Post
    how did it end?
    I don't think anyone knows.

  24. #1999
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iwantmy2dollars View Post
    If it's a lead battery, no problem using it like that in winter. If it's Li battery and you charge it indoors with it at room temp and then take it into the cold and allow it to cool below 32 degrees you will damage it. What happens is a cold Li battery cannot hold the same charge at cold temps. If it's fully charged warm, it'll over volt cold and weaken the cells. E cars get around this with various schemes like heaters, very conservative charge voltages etc. If your going out in the cold you should only charge to 70 percent. I know, it's not what you'd expect since Cold reduced the capacity. Let the battery warm back up before charging again.
    What if you charge it in the cold? I'm thinking about how it gets transported to ride on the back of the car where it will "chill" significantly.

    Quote Originally Posted by Iwantmy2dollars View Post
    Thinking some more about this, is the range indicator a stable reliable figure when fully charged? Or, does it adjust for temp or incline? If it's stable, you can use that to put a pretty fine point on knowing your battery level and how long to charge it. It would also let you use the mileage remaining to get pretty close to 65pct for storage
    I haven't had it long enough to know but I haven't seen any indication that it changes based on incline. It's also hard to know if the range left is accurate because I bounce aorund between modes so much. But yeah, I'll get used to using the gauge for charge states soon.

  25. #2000
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    Aug 2019
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    Quote Originally Posted by jm2e View Post
    I get home, put both bikes on the wall and plug them in. Anywhere from 8hrs to 7 days later, I unplug them, set tire pressures and go ride. If you’re checking specific charge levels you’re probably also rocking crank boots, cleaning it with a toothbrush after every ride, and putting a drop of Dijon lube on every link of the chain every ride too. In other words, we’re just totally different people.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Nope, just knock the mud off with a big wall paper brush. Charge only about every 4th or 5th ride.

    Don't forget to store both of yours fully charged over the winter

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