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  1. #4076
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    Mar 2008
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    I was wondering how to charge when away from the 115V at home ?

    so how much time do you need to charge a 630 W battery, I'm assuming the truck needs to be running as in drivivng somewhere ?
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  2. #4077
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Mt. Baker
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    I was wondering how to charge when away from the 115V at home ?

    so how much time do you need to charge a 630 W battery, I'm assuming the truck needs to be running as in drivivng somewhere ?
    About 5 hours with a 4 amp charger. More than double that with a 1.8

    You need to be driving or at least idling for most inverters to draw enough power. Also a lot of built in vehicle inverters have pretty low current limits. With my F250 and the factory invertor I can charge with my 4 amp charger, but only 1 at a time.

  3. #4078
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Treading Water
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    5,894
    Anyone have experience flying with an Ebike? I know the battery can’t be on the plane. But shipping the battery separately or renting one at destination seemed possible.
    Any first hand anecdotes out there?


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Lots of Cream, Lots of Sugar

  4. #4079
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    On another tangent.
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    Electric Bike Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Gunder View Post
    I have not seen any DC chargers yet. The issue here is that all of the batteries / chargers have smart charging circuits built in so you don’t explode the batteries. On each battery / charger there are 4 contacts. 1 pair( larger ones) are + / - power transfer. The smaller pair is the charging circuits. You might be able to by pass the smart circuit and charge directly from DC but you risk either frying the battery or exploding it. I sure wouldn’t do it.

    Personally I am running a 4 amp charger instead of the stock 1.8 amp Shimano and it cuts my charging time in half. However batteries will maintain capacity longer with the 1.8 charger. I don’t care about that as I am on the buy and flip every year program.
    We have 2 bikes now with a 4amp & a 2amp charger. I just finished running 4 awg cables under my F150 from the battery and into the truck bed. For now, I’ll try swapping locations of a 2000W inverter from our camp trailer for day tripping or extended trips. I can also move our dual source (solar &/or alternator) battery charger, solar panel & 100 Ah LiFePO4 battery if it ever made sense.

    We have a couple 100W panels for the trailer and they can charge the batteries very well while camping. Plus, the truck can act as a generator if absolutely needed on low sun days.

    I ordered an in-line DC watt, V & amp meter I can clip in with Anderson connectors to verify energy and current. This, coupled with an AC version. I’m expecting no more than 200W per bike, but we’ll see. So anyone looking, a 300W (min.) inverter should work, I think.

    I’m still not clear if there is a real problem with modified sine wave inverters. But with ‘smart charger’ and other unknowns pure sine wave is probably best, plus it can be used for other devices.

    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    Was just wrestling with this same annoyance a couple weeks ago. Didn't arrive at any useful conclusions. Bought an inverter.
    I’m thinking a power station might be worth a look for some if you can keep it charged. Basically my set up is a modular one. I have the battery in a ‘smart box’ https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_M...&gclsrc=aw.ds&.

    Then there’s the ‘buy extra batteries’ money pit approach….

    As far as I can tell, another eBike battery costs in the neighborhood of a 100Ah LiFePO4 battery which could be useful seasonly for other uses.

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    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

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  5. #4080
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    Jan 2010
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  6. #4081
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    Nov 2003
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    My first e-bike was a Hal-27.5. It was decent and I beat the shit out of it.
    The major components are good, but they cheap out on stuff like pedals, skewers, handlebars, etc.

    I think they’re a decent value, especially if there aren’t a lot of bike shops locally.

  7. #4082
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shredhead View Post
    My first e-bike was a Hal-27.5. It was decent and I beat the shit out of it.
    The major components are good, but they cheap out on stuff like pedals, skewers, handlebars, etc.

    I think they’re a decent value, especially if there aren’t a lot of bike shops locally.
    If I upgrade those components, can you ride not too technical singletrack well? Is it super heavy?

  8. #4083
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    Jan 2010
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    In the swamp
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    Has anyone done an e-bike conversion here? Thinking about getting a kit and converting an older full suspension bike of mine to see if I like it, before shelling out huge amounts of money in the future on a better bike. Bad idea?

  9. #4084
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    Oct 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by The SnowShow View Post
    Has anyone done an e-bike conversion here? Thinking about getting a kit and converting an older full suspension bike of mine to see if I like it, before shelling out huge amounts of money in the future on a better bike. Bad idea?
    I considered that, but needing to upgrade to beefier components seemed like a necessary part of the mix.


    Sent from my iPad using TGR Forums
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
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  10. #4085
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    Jan 2009
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    Squaw valley
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtngirl79 View Post
    Our trails are mostly designated non motorized multi-use.

    No ebikes.

    Ebikes on roads and moto/orv trails, fine.

    No motors on non motorized. No pedal assist.
    I remember you bitching about everything a few years ago. Menopause?

    Sent from my moto g 5G using Tapatalk

  11. #4086
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    Jan 2009
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    Squaw valley
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    I was reading a blog about e-bikes modded to do a 100kph on the road in I believe denmark, the e-bike has some amazing technology but there will be trouble
    I've been on a e mtn bike for 5 years. I almost never ride it in turbo, that's just to much power. So no reason to fear people modifying them.
    Sure a few will, but the majority are ok with the class1 just the way they are

    Sent from my moto g 5G using Tapatalk

  12. #4087
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    northern BC
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    I think that was people rididng on roads

    100 kph on a bicycle sounds scary to me

    I ride in boost almost all the time even going down hill ( power to rail berms ) I switch to trail mode when things get too sketch and i might get tossed down the mtn side

    as soon as the algorithyms recognise you are e-bike scum the FB will link you to a site that will try to sell you a plug-in module that fools the motor sensors into thinking the bike is only going half speed how many people will do this i can't say

    even with a pretty capable E-bike I'm not sure I want to go twice as fast on the mtnbike trails i ride
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  13. #4088
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    Oct 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    I think that was people rididng on roads

    100 kph on a bicycle sounds scary to me

    I ride in boost almost all the time even going down hill ( power to rail berms ) I switch to trail mode when things get too sketch and i might get tossed down the mtn side

    as soon as the algorithyms recognise you are e-bike scum the FB will link you to a site that will try to sell you a plug-in module that fools the motor sensors into thinking the bike is only going half speed how many people will do this i can't say

    even with a pretty capable E-bike I'm not sure I want to go twice as fast on the mtnbike trails i ride
    I think modding the bikes for increased speed is mostly a non issue. One can only go as fast as the track and sight lines allow. For wide open straightaways speed could get hairy.

    Average singletrack speeds for Enduro bikes don't get that fast. My 300 will only handle so much speed in singletrack and it has no pedals to catch. This presumes only pedal assist and no throttle assist ebikes. Throttle assist has no place on mtb trails; too much potential for acceleration skidding and whooping out trails.

    Sent from my SM-S908U1 using Tapatalk
    No matter where you go, there you are. - BB

  14. #4089
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    Ebike + Mac ride + dad + 2yo = bliss

    Sent from my SM-S908U1 using Tapatalk
    No matter where you go, there you are. - BB

  15. #4090
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    Jan 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post
    I considered that, but needing to upgrade to beefier components seemed like a necessary part of the mix.


    Sent from my iPad using TGR Forums
    Why, because of the extra weight? I haven’t seen that in my research online.

  16. #4091
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    Feb 2014
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    2,293
    Any of you familiar with the Block Lock deal on an Acros headset? My XL Decoy has the clearance to not need the blocklock and being able to transport it with the bars turned all the way so it as flat as possible would be nice. From what I can find, it looks like a new bottom and race are needed to delete the blocklock. Any other options that do not involve buying new stuff? Thanks.

  17. #4092
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    Oct 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by The SnowShow View Post
    Why, because of the extra weight? I haven’t seen that in my research online.
    More torque on the drive train and more stopping force needed on the rotors and brakes. It's a blur on the stuff I read & YouTubed, but those were a couple areas mentioned on eBike specs/reviews, IIRC.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
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  18. #4093
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    Sep 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by SKIP IN7RO View Post
    Any of you familiar with the Block Lock deal on an Acros headset? My XL Decoy has the clearance to not need the blocklock and being able to transport it with the bars turned all the way so it as flat as possible would be nice. From what I can find, it looks like a new bottom and race are needed to delete the blocklock. Any other options that do not involve buying new stuff? Thanks.
    The arcos lock block headsets are not the greatest quality. I put a -1 degree works components headset in mine last spring. No issues. I'd go -1.5 if i did it again is about it

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

  19. #4094
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    Feb 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by grinch View Post
    The arcos lock block headsets are not the greatest quality. I put a -1 degree works components headset in mine last spring. No issues. I'd go -1.5 if i did it again is about it

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app
    Thanks for the info! I rarely transport mine in a vehicle, but there is some riding nearby work this summer, so a couple times a week I will be hauling it with me. A different headset with a shorter stack top cover to expose some more steerer would be nice also..

  20. #4095
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    Quote Originally Posted by SKIP IN7RO View Post
    Thanks for the info! I rarely transport mine in a vehicle, but there is some riding nearby work this summer, so a couple times a week I will be hauling it with me. A different headset with a shorter stack top cover to expose some more steerer would be nice also..
    Decoy headtubes are relatively short and my headset came with 2 different top cap/bearing covers. One was 15 or 20mm high and the other was flat. Because the ht is so short i gave the flat cap away and just used the longer cover and still use a 50mm rise bar. Different people, different set ups. Flat cover wouldnt help with turning your bars though.

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

  21. #4096
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    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinipenem View Post
    I think modding the bikes for increased speed is mostly a non issue. One can only go as fast as the track and sight lines allow. For wide open straightaways speed could get hairy.
    A buddy modded his Levo. Means the motor doesn't kick off until 30mph, or thereabouts. His report on it is essentially what you said. He says it's nice on dirt roads, but it doesn't really make any difference on trails.

  22. #4097
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    Mar 2008
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    northern BC
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    The overall average speed on my display for 700kilometers is < 20kph and taking a quick glance in the middle of a berm my speed is closer to 15kph

    yeah hacking it would give me a higher top end but most of the time I couldn't use it on the local trail system
    Last edited by XXX-er; 06-02-2022 at 11:04 AM.
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  23. #4098
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    People that use their emtbs for commuting derestrict and its useful on tge road , especially if you have a long flat commute. Not necessary on the trail.

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

  24. #4099
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    Feb 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by grinch View Post
    Decoy headtubes are relatively short and my headset came with 2 different top cap/bearing covers. One was 15 or 20mm high and the other was flat. Because the ht is so short i gave the flat cap away and just used the longer cover and still use a 50mm rise bar. Different people, different set ups. Flat cover wouldnt help with turning your bars though.

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app
    Just checked and YT didn't send a second top bearing cover. I am also overthinking this as a little loosening of the stem will get the bars out of the way, so it will lie pretty flat.

  25. #4100
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Seattle, WA
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    1,845
    The problem with DC-DC is mostly voltage. You need to convert the output voltage of the source (usually 12v) to the input voltage of the battery (usually 36-72v). Then you also need a balancer, which should be built-in to the battery for any of these sealed cases. Ideally companies could provide 12v powered power bricks, that would be the easiest solution.

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