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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
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    Getting a seatpost unstuck

    So I've got this old Schwinn tandem that my wife and I got as a wedding present a few years ago. The seatpost unfortunately broke and now I can't seem to get it out to replace it. I sprayed some PB blaster around it, but it still won't budge...any ideas?
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  2. #2
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    Apr 2006
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    Sawzall. Gently

  3. #3
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    Nov 2005
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    Down In A Hole, Up in the Sky
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    35,448
    Or just a hacksaw blade if a sawzall blade is too wide.
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    If all else fails, find someone with an adjustable seat tube reamer.

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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    slc
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    Heat the seat tube a bit with a torch. The seat tube will expand more than broken post and likely (maybe, possibly) free it. Pretty common method for freeing seized stuff like this. Or keep spraying it with penetrating oil and lightly tapping with a hammer, though could take a few days if it will work at all. If there's a metal fab shop near you they might have some tools/ideas.

  6. #6
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    Jan 2008
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    As mentioned above a hacksaw blade on a keyhole saw. One maybe two cuts down the inside length of the seaport should separate it.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    5,013
    I've been down this road before. Ruined a really nice steel frame. I tried everything I could. Even a reamer didn't work as the post was thin and fused to the frame.

    This is how bicycles die. Sorry. You could cut the tube out and weld a new one in. Then paint the whole frame a new color.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Eburg
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    Steel post in a steel frame. Somebody can get that out. In my shop, I'd bore it out with my vertical mill. If I didn't have a mill, I'd likely use a Sawzall with a fine thin kerf metal blade. The idea is to cut make 2 full length vertical cuts from the inside, remove a section and then start to peel what's left.

    Those old Schwinn seat posts are mild steel, easy to cut.

    Did you allow the PB Blaster a couple days to penetrate? Penetrating oil usually worked for seized steel post in steel frame in my shop rat days, but if often took a few days.

    Heat might do the trick but at the risk of ruining the paint.

    I don't get how a reamer would work to get that out.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
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    LV-426
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    How much post is left inside the frame?

    One tip I've heard frequently (but not tried personally) is to remove the bottom bracket, invert the bike, then pour penetrating fluid/ rust break-free/ Coca-Cola down inside the seat tube -- to let it sit up against the rust and do its work. With an open-end seatpost like that one, you'd have to plug it first.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by GeezerSteve View Post

    I don't get how a reamer would work to get that out.
    It's nothing magical - stick the reamer in the seatpost. Remove metal. Adjust reamer. Remove more metal. Keep going until post is thin enough to collapse. It takes a long time.


    That aside, if the inside of the seatpost is in ok shape, you might be able to just measure the ID of the post, cut a slot in it, and buy a new seatpost that'd fit inside your new secondary seat tube. Not very elegant, but maybe ok given the application.



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  11. #11
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    Nov 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    It's nothing magical - stick the reamer in the seatpost. Remove metal. Adjust reamer. Remove more metal. Keep going until post is thin enough to collapse. It takes a long time.
    Uh, yeah, I know how a seat post reamer works, having used one many times, including 2 days ago to dress a newly built frame. It would take a few hundred hours to remove that stuck seatpost with a reamer a cunt hair at a time. Reamers are designed to remove a fraction of a millimeter at a time, and it takes alot of effort just to do that.

    If you want to ream lots of material, and you aren't tooled up to bore, abrasives is the way to go, more specifically in this case a cartridge roll on a die grinder, finished with a bore polisher. That'd take an hour or so with the right setup.

    Re placing a new post inside the ID of that post, note that's the old Schwinn 1" (25.4) post, as skinny as seat posts get.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Donner Summit
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    1,251
    Might be able to find an old 7/8" (22.2mm) BMX post, with the separate seat clamp.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    May 2002
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    Halfway Between the Gutter and the Stars
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    3,808
    Star nut and a dent puller (slide hammer)? Attach the star nut to the dent puller, stuff it down the seat post then start pounding the puller up. You might get somewhere or you might just bend the star nut backwards. Make sure your star nut doesn't go through the post and hook up with your frame.
    You are what you eat.
    ---------------------------------------------------
    There's no such thing as bad snow, just shitty skiers.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Boulder
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    Thanks for the ideas all...

    The PB blaster has been in there for about 24hours. I'm going to take the tap-spray-tap approach for the next day or so. If that doesn't work, sounds like the sawzall is my next best option.


    I'll keep you all posted.

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  15. #15
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    Apr 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    How much post is left inside the frame?
    No idea...I can't even get the other seatpost out all the way. It is definitely over 350mm thou.


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  16. #16
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    Jan 2006
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    Carbondale
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    12,497
    Quote Originally Posted by Beaver View Post
    Star nut and a dent puller (slide hammer)? Attach the star nut to the dent puller, stuff it down the seat post then start pounding the puller up. You might get somewhere or you might just bend the star nut backwards. Make sure your star nut doesn't go through the post and hook up with your frame.
    This was the idea I had essentially... hooking it and slide hammer it out after that rust break free has a day or two to penetrate....
    www.dpsskis.com
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    formerly an ambassador for a few others, but the ski industry is... interesting.
    Fukt: a very small amount of snow.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by GeezerSteve View Post
    Uh, yeah, I know how a seat post reamer works
    Uh, congratulations?

    Quote Originally Posted by GeezerSteve View Post
    Re placing a new post inside the ID of that post, note that's the old Schwinn 1" (25.4) post, as skinny as seat posts get.
    There are many easily available seatposts in sub 1" diameters. But since you're such a fucking encyclopedia of bike knowledge, we'll ignore that so you can be right.

    But no disagreement that a post within the post is a shitty option.

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  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    Park City
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    5,019
    Back in my shop days I took a ciocc san cristobal frame with a stuck campy post to a machine shop as a last resort. Tried everything else in the shop bag of tricks to no avail. Hour later it was done, 27.2 post fit perfectly.

    If the suggested stuff doesn’t work try my last resort.


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    I rip the groomed on tele gear

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    3,575
    That bike is gonna make you guys argue. Good luck with the seat post


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  20. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
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    2,315
    AMMONIA! It's a chemical bond. It's dissolved by ammonia! Saved my buddies Balfa Minutman after he "Tried everything".
    Check number 9!
    http://sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveVt View Post
    AMMONIA! It's a chemical bond. It's dissolved by ammonia! Saved my buddies Balfa Minutman after he "Tried everything".
    Check number 9!
    http://sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html
    NH3 works for Al alloy post in steel frame, but OP has steel post in steel frame. Sheldon's #8 (penetrating oil for steel in steel)

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    North Vancouver
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    6,459
    Make a duct tape handle on a hacksaw blade so it looks like a prison shiv and cut a 3-4 vertical cuts in the post. Peel out the stripes.

    Hit it with an adjustable reamer after to clean up the corrosion on the inside of the seat tube.

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    NCW
    Posts
    4,605
    Copious pb blaster, a slide hammer and time.

    You should be able to rent a slide hammer from your local auto parts store. They’re usually free with deposit.

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    Aspen, Colorado
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    I’m going to also recommend the slide hammer. You are going to mar the frame trying to cut it out

    Last week I tried to remove a drill chuck. Nothing was working. Heat, PB blaster, nothing could get it to budge. I put it in the freezer for an hour and then briefly hit it with a torch. Cold spindle and hot exterior and it spun right off

    You could chill it inside with dry ice and then give the outside a quick once over with the torch. The outside might expand while the inside contracts. It’s worth a shot. Just don’t try to cut it out with a sawzall

  25. #25
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    Carbondale
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    So, yeah, did you get this thing out yet?
    www.dpsskis.com
    www.point6.com
    formerly an ambassador for a few others, but the ski industry is... interesting.
    Fukt: a very small amount of snow.

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