Reviving an old bike

[abraham]

I'm about to find myself with a choice between a bike path or driving on the highway to get to work. I'm planning on using a bike at least for a while but I haven't ever bought a road bike, I have borrowed my dad's bike that he no longer uses but it needs some work since he hasn't used it in maybe ten years.

My plan is to get new tires and new brake pads then figure out the rest from there as it breaks (or doesn't). Do I need to replace the cables for shifting and the brakes? What do I need to know about tires beyond diameter and width?
Are the tires going to make a big difference for say 15 miles a day?

I figure if I make this work easily I'll end up buying a bike that fits me better in a bit especially since my job is likely moving further away in a few months. For now I'll use this for commuting and beer drinking

[mcski]

Tires = more or less rolling resistance. So ya, they make a difference over 15 miles

[abraham]

Tires = more or less rolling resistance. So ya, they make a difference over 15 miles

So what do I need to know when I'm looking at tires, just read reviews? I don't know shit about road stuff.

[Sirshredalot]

Commuting via bike is great.

You can probably get away with lubing the shifter and brake cables, rather than replacing them.

On a commuter, you want a durable tire. At least run a slime tube or something. Changing a roadie tire on the side of the road in the dark sucks.

[mntlion]

buy a cheap, durable (not light) tire

replace brakes if they feel crappy

do the rest as needed and as it sucks or fails

[doebedoe]

So what do I need to know when I'm looking at tires, just read reviews? I don't know shit about road stuff.

If you tell us the tire size and the bike we can probably give you recommendations.

Biggest thing you can do to prevent flats is pump your damn tires up. I worked for a couple summers at a bike coop and by far the most common flat is a pinch flat due to underinflated tires.

Fresh tires ($40ish). Fresh brake pads ($10-20). A basic repair kit (multi tool, tire levers, pump, patch kit). Cables and housing will make things feel better most likely and are inexpensive if you can do the work yourself. Aldi has $30 work stands right now if you've got one close.

[detrusor]

I commutes exclusively in Portland for 8 years. I agree w durable on tires but spend money to get good ones. Continental gator skins worked great for me. Biggest tire that will fit. Super cheap tires have crappy sidewalks and rubber. Poor rolling and cornering, plus a little extra deformation will keep you from cutting a tire.


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[Groomer Gambler]

Continental gator skins worked great for me. Biggest tire that will fit.


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This and this!

I had gatorskins for awhile and loved em for commuting and road riding. Currently I'm using some Schwalbe little big bens.

Here ya go: https://www.rivbike.com/collections/tires

[jamal]

New tires and tubes, probably a new chain, and see how it rides.

Maxxis refuse are decent, durable tires as well. Personally I don't like how they roll compared to race tires I have, but you can run over a lot of shit with them.

Also put the biggest tires on that will fit in the frame. If it's an older road bike that might only be 23-25mm tires but if you can get a 28 in there that would be nice.

[Flyoverland Captive]

3rd on Gatorskins; they're all I've ridden for the last ten years (28x700), without a single flat.

[abraham]

I guess it's a randonnee bike, not a road bike? It looks like there's room for a pretty fat tire if I want one. The current ones say 700 x 35C. How fat is too fat here, and I expect to use this in the rain eventually (in Seattle) so are there tires that are better for that? Otherwise I'll just get something and run it until I wear it out or feel like it's not working well.
I'll look into the tire options mentioned, thanks guys.

[Self Jupiter]

Gator skins are kind of the standard for commuter bikes round the cobble stoned streets a Beantown.

Curious what the recommended PSI is for avoiding flats? I usually stop around 100 for fear that too much can be too much. But it’s an unfounded guess that’s worked out so far but I personally only ride for fun.

This is all on my dad’s old bike, too. He’s a little too old to ride that thing now.

[doebedoe]

I guess it's a randonnee bike, not a road bike? It looks like there's room for a pretty fat tire if I want one. The current ones say 700 x 35C. How fat is too fat here, and I expect to use this in the rain eventually (in Seattle) so are there tires that are better for that? Otherwise I'll just get something and run it until I wear it out or feel like it's not working well.
I'll look into the tire options mentioned, thanks guys.

If you can fit 35s with fenders, that's better than 38s or 40s without. A very mild tread is more versatile than a true slick.

I like Panaracers -- Pasela PTs, gravel kings, Way way better feel than Gatorskins which -- while very flat resistant -- feel like shit to ride on. I get 2-3000mi out of paselas which is adequate enough for me. Cheaper too.

[El Chupacabra]

I guess it's a randonnee bike, not a road bike? It looks like there's room for a pretty fat tire if I want one. The current ones say 700 x 35C. How fat is too fat here, and I expect to use this in the rain eventually (in Seattle).

If you intend to use fenders, keep that in mind for clearance for tires.

[doebedoe]

Gator skins are kind of the standard for commuter bikes round the cobble stoned streets a Beantown.

Curious what the recommended PSI is for avoiding flats? I usually stop around 100 for fear that too much can be too much. But it’s an unfounded guess that’s worked out so far but I personally only ride for fun.

This is all on my dad’s old bike, too. He’s a little too old to ride that thing now.

Recommended PSI depends entirely on the size of the tire and the weight of the rider. Could be 120, could be 60. Inflating to max PSI kills ride quality. Not inflating enough means pinch flats when you hit things, jump curbs, etc.

[Self Jupiter]

Ok cool. Well by that account I’ll just keep on what I’m doing - 100 psi, no flats and seems to ride OK. I’m not going for much more than 20-30mi at the most, all urban, works for me.

[doebedoe]

Ok cool. Well by that account I’ll just keep on what I’m doing - 100 psi, no flats and seems to ride OK. I’m not going for much more than 20-30mi at the most, all urban, works for me.

Yep. Do what works for you. I ride my 32s at about 80 in back, 70 in front. My 38s I do about 15psi less in each. I go bit high so I can easily go a week or two without topping off. All tires/tubes leak air.

Often times, higher pressure tires feel faster because they transmit more road vibrations. But a lower psi actually is faster because it more efficiently absorbs road irregularities. https://janheine.wordpress.com/2016/...ure-take-home/

While Jan maybe is a bit off the deep end in big tires/low pressures, even pros now are regularly choosing 28s over 23/25s because the recognition that skinnier ain't always faster. And they are always less comfy.

[abraham]

Oh man I hadn't even thought of fenders. Thanks guys

[doebedoe]

Oh man I hadn't even thought of fenders. Thanks guys

Planet Bike. Like $40 from amazon. They have safety clips in the front so if you get a stick up there you don't get a jammed wheel. Simple, cosmetically boring, super functional.

[Self Jupiter]

Thanks Dobe. Will begin experimenting with lower pressures. Methinks mefatter than you.

[jamal]

Yes, depends on weight and actual measured width, but here's the ballpark I shoot for at 170ish lbs:

23mm - 100ish
28mm - 80-90
32mm - 50-60

And maybe a bit lower. My pump gauge isn't accurate and my handheld digital gauge doesn't like sealing on valves above 35-40 so I kind of just guess (the sks airchecker sucks, get a topeak d2 instead if you're looking for a digital gauge). I'm a lot more ocd about offroad tire pressures and make sure my mtb and cx tires are exactly where I want them before every ride/race. And do make slight variations depending on conditions.

[Ed el Loco]

If you're going to ride in Seattle any time other than summer you want good fenders. Keep shoes at work and a stock pile dry socks.


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[bodywhomper]

Good info here on older bikes
http://sheldonbrown.com/

If you replace the chain, you might want to measure it first for stretch and/or take a close look at your rings for wear. New chain and worn/misshaped rings are a bad combo.