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  1. #1
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    $1000 Titanium Boner

    I'm sure some of you dentists will be all over these. Heck, they're less than half the price of an Enve wheelset.

    https://www.pinkbike.com/news/cane-c...irst-look.html

    Yes, they are the reincarnation of the Sweet Wings crank from 20+ years ago, even the same designer.

    Last edited by Jonny Snow; 04-17-2018 at 11:57 AM.

  2. #2
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    They should sell. A friend still has his sweets. They’d still be perfect if they were direct mount. The thin steel spider on them bends fairly ez and they need the slop at the bearing tightened regularly(no collar) . I wonder how thick the ti is on these

  3. #3
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    It better come with goddamn crank booties.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by grinch View Post
    They should sell. A friend still has his sweets. They’d still be perfect if they were direct mount. The thin steel spider on them bends fairly ez and they need the slop at the bearing tightened regularly(no collar) . I wonder how thick the ti is on these
    Tell your bro to put some Loctite in the spline interface, and the bolt, this will eliminate play and keep them from loosening up. If they are 58mm bolt circle, you can get the Surly 58/104mm spider for about $40 and run modern rings.

    I saw a comment on Pinkbike that if they brought the new cranks in at $549 MSRP, or 15% more than the Next SL, they would dominate the high end crank market. I'll certainly be looking to buy a pair for $500 or so in the next few years. We'll see, the hype on Pinkbike is very positive.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by HankScorpio View Post
    It better come with goddamn crank booties.
    You don't need 'em.

    You can smash the SHIT out of these things and they'll just shrug it off.


  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonny Snow View Post
    Tell your bro to put some Loctite in the spline interface, and the bolt, this will eliminate play and keep them from loosening up. If they are 58mm bolt circle, you can get the Surly 58/104mm spider for about $40 and run modern rings.

    I saw a comment on Pinkbike that if they brought the new cranks in at $549 MSRP, or 15% more than the Next SL, they would dominate the high end crank market. I'll certainly be looking to buy a pair for $500 or so in the next few years. We'll see, the hype on Pinkbike is very positive.
    Thanks. He does use loctite but he’s a big dude and somehow pushes most everything past there intentions. He’ll be interested in the surly spider I’m sure. The sweets are on his old steel bontrager racelite and it’s a pretty much a townie now

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by grinch View Post
    Thanks. He does use loctite but he’s a big dude and somehow pushes most everything past there intentions. He’ll be interested in the surly spider I’m sure. The sweets are on his old steel bontrager racelite and it’s a pretty much a townie now
    OK cool. Please make sure he's putting a heavy Loctite directly on the actual splines, this fills the micro gaps preventing movement that can cause the bolt to loosen up. You can also put some on where the bearing races contact the spindle. IRC the original instructions had you Loctiting just the bolt.

    If his coasting position on the bike is left foot forward, there should be minimal problems with the interface loosening, since the torques from pedaling and standing are in the same direction. If he rides right foot forward, the forces are opposite and could lead to movement.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonny Snow View Post
    OK cool. Please make sure he's putting a heavy Loctite directly on the actual splines, this fills the micro gaps preventing movement that can cause the bolt to loosen up. You can also put some on where the bearing races contact the spindle. IRC the original instructions had you Loctiting just the bolt.

    If his coasting position on the bike is left foot forward, there should be minimal problems with the interface loosening, since the torques from pedaling and standing are in the same direction. If he rides right foot forward, the forces are opposite and could lead to movement.
    Good info. I’m not sure where he’s applying the loctite,it’s been a while. I’ll tell him about the spline application and the races. That and that spider could make those a great product even by today’s standards. The arms and axle are stiff and very strong. I’ve seen him fold a race face dh crank like they were paper. He dropped in on a 70ft rock face at kick horse that is tricky in the best of times. This day it was wet and no one rides it wet. Brakes couldn’t be used or were useless if used and rode out the compression at the bottom going way to fast. We thought it’d be certain injury. Somehow he rode it out. Necessity is the mother of invention I guess but his cranks had 40 degree bends in them. Might have saved him or at least his ankles. The sweet cranks,after 20 yrs, have remained unfazed after the occasional retighten and spider straightening

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by grinch View Post
    Good info. I’m not sure where he’s applying the loctite,it’s been a while. I’ll tell him about the spline application and the races. That and that spider could make those a great product even by today’s standards. The arms and axle are stiff and very strong. I’ve seen him fold a race face dh crank like they were paper. He dropped in on a 70ft rock face at kick horse that is tricky in the best of times. This day it was wet and no one rides it wet. Brakes couldn’t be used or were useless if used and rode out the compression at the bottom going way to fast. We thought it’d be certain injury. Somehow he rode it out. Necessity is the mother of invention I guess but his cranks had 40 degree bends in them. Might have saved him or at least his ankles. The sweet cranks,after 20 yrs, have remained unfazed after the occasional retighten and spider straightening

    Awesome, a good number of people broke them, including myself, not doing anything extreme either.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonny Snow View Post
    Awesome, a good number of people broke them, including myself, not doing anything extreme either.
    Ya his are on his hardtail with an old Judy dh(ancient). It probably got bucked a bit but nothing like the rf cranks on his dh bike. Sounds like they’re best where they are . A rolling pimped artifact

  11. #11
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    https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=95202

    These are starting to hit retailers. $850 at Universal Cycles with the 15% coupon.

    I'd consider picking up a pair at around $600. You can get set of Next SL / R arms for about $350.

  12. #12
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    You can get a loctite for retaining bearings and sleeves which is pretty badass stuff

    I used it on some race face turbo arms that were constantly creaking on a WTB BB

    it stopped the creaking but then junior just snapped the spindle
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  13. #13
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    Thread drift but any product for creaky carbon bars? Race face 35mm diameter stem torqued to spec(maybe a touch more). Haven’t tried carbon paste. Worth it?

  14. #14
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    Subscribed. I just put a tiny bit of Paul’s grease.


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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by grinch View Post
    Thread drift but any product for creaky carbon bars? Race face 35mm diameter stem torqued to spec(maybe a touch more). Haven’t tried carbon paste. Worth it?
    My first option is perfectly dry and clean. I wipe the bars and stem interface clean with iso alcohol and evenly torque the bolts and see if that quiets them.
    I find stem, steerer, headset noise hard to determine which factor is creaking. I know from plenty of bikes that if its a Rockshox Pike A1 its the CSU creaking.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by grinch View Post
    Thread drift but any product for creaky carbon bars? Race face 35mm diameter stem torqued to spec(maybe a touch more). Haven’t tried carbon paste. Worth it?
    yeah both junior & I had a creaky seat post on our carbon framed yeti 5.5

    tried cleaning it, tried grease, tried a wax based chain lube, tried teflon pipe thread tape, it got better but didn't stop the creaking

    so we both tried the carbon paste and it worked pretty much 100%

    IME you need to use carbon paste on carbon parts
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    IME you need to use carbon paste on carbon parts
    +1. Broke a perfectly good seat post clamp on my road bike trying to keep it from slipping. Carbon paste went on with the new one and very little torque needed since.

  18. #18
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    a shop guy told me they include a little pak of the carbon paste with carbon bikes and maybe even with carbon parts but it would appear the shop assembly guys might skip it for whatever reason

    but IME you wana make sure to use the carbon paste cuz creaking parts on a brand new 5000$ bike is pretty fucking annoying

    I could describe the consistancey of carbon paste as being like valve grinding compound or pumice based hand cleaner
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  19. #19
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    Great thanks all. It always had a small occasional creak. All the dust atm has it creaking a bit extra. I’ll give it a good clean with allkyhaul and round up some paste. Sounds like it should be readily available at the lbs

  20. #20
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    Carbon paste is essential. It also works on aluminum or other parts you want to lightly clamp or have sliding issues with.

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