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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
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    NH
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    Anyone Using the Petzl RAD Line?

    Wondering if people are using it as their main cord for ski mountaineering, and what their thoughts are about it. After 11 years away from rock climbing (I climbed mostly on a 10.2 or 11.0) I used a "rope" for the first time last week to hop a water fall. 5.5 mm. The game done changed.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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    Ventura Highway in the Sunshine
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    I always carried a 25m Sterling 8mm rope. Light enough to carry just in case, plenty strong to reppel/ower on, and not a horrible choice for a short lead if absolutely necessary.

    I agree it is a constitutional right for Americans to be assholes...its just too bad that so many take the opportunity...
    iscariot

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    Den/Baltimore
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    I looked hard at it, but it seems to have limited use. Been discussed at length in other threads, but for roped glacier travel, you rely on the rope cutting into the lip of the crevasse to dissipate energy from the fall. Kinda risky when you could just use a thin dynamic line that is more multipurpose, as hutash noted above.

    That said, a RAD line with Mammut RescYou seems like a reasonable kit for crevasse self-rescue when skiing unroped in lift-accessed glaciated terrain...but I've used neither.
    "Alpine rock and steep, deep powder are what I seek, and I will always find solace there." - Bean Bowers

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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
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    NH
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    700
    It would be used for rapping more than glacier travel. Did an informal poll with a bunch of guides. For freeride and ski mountaineering without lead climbing, but with known raps from in situ anchors, they're all using thin, static lines.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    PNW
    Posts
    413
    Found a reasonable price on the Petzl RAD line here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/253706325259

    Shipping time is a few weeks but hard to beat that deal.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    NAZ
    Posts
    474
    There are a few companies out there making strong 6mil rap/pull lines. Sterling and Mammut also have models I believe. My only recommended precaution is that it wouldn't hurt to use a second carabiner on your rap/belay device to increase friction. Even with my 7.8 twins I use one sometimes for free-hanging rappels. Otherwise it's the perfect tool for the job.
    It sucks to suck.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Swiss alps
    Posts
    444
    I have a RAD line. I think it is great for what it is. But beware, it does not handle as a 7+ mm dynamic rope. Did some testing jumping into crevasses and prussikking (is that a verb in english?) out. T bloc needs some assistance to catch, depends also the crab used. prusik ropes may or may not catch (usually not). I also lowered a group using the rad lines and there is noticeably less friction, so add an extra carabiner when using an ATC, or super munter. same for rappelling. Best to test before you go out, you do not want to find this stuff out in the field.

    For situations where you may or may not use a rope, or just for short sections, I think it is great. Because it is so light you throw it in the pack 'just in case' whereas my 60m 7.8 twin is a fucking burden on your back. But yeah, if you plan to do a load of climbing maybe bring something dynamic. My plan for this season was to go 30m Rad line and 30 (or 40) m 7.7 dynamic. And then I tore my ACL so now I am spending prime steepski season behind a keyboard :-(

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Golden
    Posts
    6,316
    Quote Originally Posted by auvgeek View Post
    I looked hard at it, but it seems to have limited use. Been discussed at length in other threads, but for roped glacier travel, you rely on the rope cutting into the lip of the crevasse to dissipate energy from the fall. Kinda risky when you could just use a thin dynamic line that is more multipurpose, as hutash noted above.

    That said, a RAD line with Mammut RescYou seems like a reasonable kit for crevasse self-rescue when skiing unroped in lift-accessed glaciated terrain...but I've used neither.
    There is research out there showing that the bounce you'll get from a rubber band 8mm dynamic line could make holding a fall more difficult than a single shock on a hyperstatic line like the RAD. I'm not trying to change your mind, there are certainly folks who are skeptical to run static ropes - but there is some good testing being done.

    That said, I'm all about it. If nothing else, a good compromise for glacier travel/shortroping applications may be to use a 30m dynamic, and keep a 30m rad in the pack for rescue.

    Seems people are still skeptical to use super skinny ropes around sharp edges, maybe something to think about if your rappels involve alot of rock? For most uses in the ski world I think it's a non-issue. Like already stated above, just make sure you have enough friction and soft enough prussics that will actually work on a 6mm line.
    Drive slow, homie.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    163
    Quote Originally Posted by Z View Post
    There is research out there showing that the bounce you'll get from a rubber band 8mm dynamic line could make holding a fall more difficult than a single shock on a hyperstatic line like the RAD. I'm not trying to change your mind, there are certainly folks who are skeptical to run static ropes - but there is some good testing being done.
    Got a link to any of that research? I always thought it was well agreed upon that it was easier to catch a fall on dynamic rope and that's what seems intuitive to me as well. I'd be interested in hearing why that might not be the case.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Golden
    Posts
    6,316
    Quote Originally Posted by lazyasian View Post
    Got a link to any of that research? I always thought it was well agreed upon that it was easier to catch a fall on dynamic rope and that's what seems intuitive to me as well. I'd be interested in hearing why that might not be the case.
    https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Si...the-RAD-SYSTEM

    last chart in english^

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Size:  78.6 KB

    http://mra.org/wp-content/uploads/20...ropesFinal.pdf (not as directly applicable).
    Drive slow, homie.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Swiss alps
    Posts
    444
    thanks, great info.

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