Never mind what ski threads, how about a what wheelset thread?

[radam]

I agree that a wheel build would be pretty easy with a new LB rim, but I don't want to deal with another cracked rim anytime soon--especially if rims are $300 each or more. I only have about 200 miles on this rim, and I have no idea how many the first owner had on it, but I can't afford to replace $300 rims every 200 miles.

The other complicating factor is that I have a 28h rear hub, which limits rim choices significantly. I guess I could buy a new hub too, but that would be a bummer.

If 26mm internal width isn't too narrow for you, Stans Arch MK3s are available in 28h. Can be had for ~$70 pretty easy.

DTEX471s are a little narrower (25mm I think) but the number of enduro and DH racers running them makes me think they can handle plenty of abuse... like when Gwin thrashed his, sans tire.

Or you could go with the buttertanium Easton/Race Face ARC rims. I know plenty of people end up denting them to shit but they don't seem to crack or break all that often.

[Dee Hubbs]

I have over 5 years on my lightbicycle rims. In 2013 I convinced our shop to do a bulk buy, and we built 12 sets of wheels from LB rims. We never had one issue from any of them.
I’m over 200 lbs and my 28hole straight pull build have survived on multiple 6” trail bikes. I’ve barely even had to have put a spoke wrench on them in 5 years. One broken spoke from a lateral rock strike.
I would not be scared of the longevity of a carbon rim.

[skaredshtles]

I agree that a wheel build would be pretty easy with a new LB rim, but I don't want to deal with another cracked rim anytime soon--especially if rims are $300 each or more. I only have about 200 miles on this rim, and I have no idea how many the first owner had on it, but I can't afford to replace $300 rims every 200 miles.

LB 29'er wheels are less than $200 per rim. Just FYI.

[Toddball]

LB 29'er wheels are less than $200 per rim. Just FYI.

The asymmetrical LB 29er rims are around $270-$280 per rim, before shipping. Mine are asymmetrical; do you think I could swap to a symmetrical rim (which is under $200) with the same spokes? How much ERD difference is too much?

Maybe trying to save the spokes doesn't make sense economically either, in which case it seems like the best course of action is to just get a cheaper alu rim. Those EX471s look pretty decent, although significantly narrower than the old rim.

[Dee Hubbs]

EX471 = $85.00. 28 new spokes+nipple = $56.00. Shop rate for full wheel lacing and truing = $75.00. Your +/- $225 to build your EX471.
$300 for your carbon rim and $25 shop rate for the final tension.
For $100 more you have the same width, size shape carbon wheel.

[grinch]

I’ll echo what ^^^you said earlier. Lbs has built a few of the lb’s the last few years. Shop owner puts miles on his , another big customer that puts on big miles and another customer that rips and puts on miles and thrashed stuff. None with any issues. Shop did relace (new spokes)the thrashers wheels after 3? Or 4? Years. Can’t remember why, maybe broken spokes. I’ve only had mine a year but zero issues. I think I need to add a little spike tension on my rear now. Not much and wheels are still dead straight. After success with Huck Norris in the rear of my race face rims I buy a Huck Norris in the rear wheel of my lb’s. Mine are assym and I think 31mm inner. I’ve taken them everywhere. Can’t remember I full on rock case but I know I’ve nailed a bunch of shit. The rims still look new(1100g tire and Huck Norris). I think they’re warrantee is 2yrs and they ship from Vancouver(Canadian distribution as well as US)

[skaredshtles]

I’ll echo what ^^^you said earlier. Lbs has built a few of the lb’s the last few years. Shop owner puts miles on his , another big customer that puts on big miles and another customer that rips and puts on miles and thrashed stuff. None with any issues. Shop did relace (new spokes)the thrashers wheels after 3? Or 4? Years. Can’t remember why, maybe broken spokes. I’ve only had mine a year but zero issues. I think I need to add a little spike tension on my rear now. Not much and wheels are still dead straight. After success with Huck Norris in the rear of my race face rims I buy a Huck Norris in the rear wheel of my lb’s. Mine are assym and I think 31mm inner. I’ve taken them everywhere. Can’t remember I full on rock case but I know I’ve nailed a bunch of shit. The rims still look new(1100g tire and Huck Norris). I think they’re warrantee is 2yrs and they ship from Vancouver(Canadian distribution as well as US)

Interesting. Anecdotally I know of at least 3 people that have cracked LB rims. I think @wkd-rdr may have broken 2 or 3 of them himself...

[grinch]

Interesting. Anecdotally I know of at least 3 people that have cracked LB rims. I think @wkd-rdr may have broken 2 or 3 of them himself...

Yes mine is anecdotal as well. I don’t personally know the other purchasers but I know enough about them to confirm that they used and abused the rims as the shop owner had said. I know initially (8-10yrs ago?) lb had some cracking but I hadn’t heard much since other than incremental improvements year after year. My personal experience is limited and maybe I just haven’t hit that one rock yet. I’m not super hard on gear, except for a crazy amount of dings in those race face al rims before the Huck Norris install . I generally wear stuff out , other than smash the odd derailleur. . Other than that it’s wheel maintenance and these lb’s have been flawless thus far. The stiffness certainly puts a little jump in your step. Double butted spokes would be recommended . Curious about “dee hubs” radial lace now. Possibly looking for some vertical compliance?

[D(C)]

So I've been running an Arch MK3 wheelset over the summer and the rims are looking pretty rough. I have a few dents, and there are cracks around the spoke eyelets, probably from overtightening the spokes to persuade it back to true-ish. I am thinking it's time to rebuild with some new rims and swap out the semi-useless Huck Norris for a CushCore.

I can reuse my spokes with either Arch or Flow rims. Are Flows considerably stronger than Arches? Given that I'm taking the plunge on CushCore, can I get away with the lighter rims and avoid some of the issues I've had (denting, knocking out of true?).

I have heard a theory that the additional compliance of the Arches actually make them hold up better than Flows, which behave in a more brittle manner.

[beaterdit]

I’d go with Flows just for the extra width. Extra strength doesn’t hurt though. I’ve run prior gens of both and at least back then, I can’t say Arches held up better.

In regards to Light Bicycle carbon. I’ve seen a few broken after taking a lot of abuse under aggressive riders. Mostly I’ve seen them hold up well though, under a spectrum of riders including big, aggressive ones.

[D(C)]

I’d go with Flows just for the extra width. Extra strength doesn’t hurt though. I’ve run prior gens of both and at least back then, I can’t say Arches held up better.

Yeah, the previous generation Flow EX held up very well for me. A lot better than anything I have tried since. With everything becoming both wider and lighter, something’s got to give.

[CantDog]

For what it's worth I'm riding flow EX in New England trail/xc riding and holy hell have I banged then around. I've had Stans before but overall pretty bummed with how these have held up. Can be trued, but they are nearing the end of their life, and I'm 160lbs with gear and overall pretty light on stuff. Will be replaced with some LB rims when I get some cash.


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[toast2266]

Interesting. Anecdotally I know of at least 3 people that have cracked LB rims. I think @wkd-rdr may have broken 2 or 3 of them himself...

My anecdotal evidence is similar to yours. Most of the lb rims I've seen have cracked. Most of the less generic carbon brands seem to hold up pretty well.

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[Jonny Snow]

Yeah, the previous generation Flow EX held up very well for me. A lot better than anything I have tried since. With everything becoming both wider and lighter, something’s got to give.

You may want to look into some DT rims, they seem to possibly use a harder alloy.

But IMHO the key is to figure out what tire pressure keeps you from hitting the rocks on the rim, then maintain that every ride. If that pressure is impossibly high, you need a stiffer sidewall and possibly softer compound tire.

[gravitylover]

For what it's worth I'm riding flow EX in New England trail/xc riding and holy hell have I banged then around. I've had Stans before but overall pretty bummed with how these have held up. Can be trued, but they are nearing the end of their life, and I'm 160lbs with gear and overall pretty light on stuff. Will be replaced with some LB rims when I get some cash.

I know that these cost more but I can vouch for how well they hold up https://www.dirtcomponents.com/ Complete wheelsets and just rims are available. If you want to test ride them I have a set of the Porcr's on my plus bike that you're welcome to try. If you choose to go with these and need a discount code use Trailhead for 10% off.

[D(C)]

I picked up some Flow rims to mount up on my current hubs and spokes. The deal was too good to refuse. Hopefully they hold up.

[Andeh]

Anyone know what standalone rim DT Swiss XM1501s correspond to? I'm assuming XM481s, but maybe EX511s?

[bagtagley]

I believe they use the XM rims. The 1501s are available in different rim widths, so the specific rim model being used will depend on that.

[Andeh]

Got it, that's what I figured. I'm just curious because I'm looking at buying a Guerrilla Gravity bike, and one of the wheel options they have is XM1501s, which they offer for only $800 when purchased with a bike/frame. That seems cheaper than building a set of DT240s / XM481s, but the downside is the 1501 apparently only has centerlock for the rotors.

[meter-man]

Thanks for the great thread and great advice throughout.

Just ordered up a set of Stan's Flow MK3 with DT350 hubs with the 54t ratchet upgrade. Stoked. $600 shipped to me.