Beginner climbing

[Dolores Malone]

I have just started climbing and realized i could really do with a decent set of climbing shoes. I am on a budget so cheaper the better but i would still like a feature pair. I would use my climbing shoe for bouldering inside and outside and also climbing indoors and outdoors
I have two Choice :

1. La Sportiva Mythos
2. Evolv Shaman

What is best?

Thanks in advance

[zartagen]

I'd go mythos unless you are planning on doing a lot of overhanging bouldering. The mythos will be a good all around shoe for most beginner climbing. The shaman is pretty aggressive and more suited to steep rock.

[hutash]

Of the two go Mythos. At first cimfort is key, you will climb better and be abke to wear them all day rather pull them off between burns. They will always useful in the future for all day climbing sessions or long trad/multi pitch routes. When you become a 5.12 climber, then by all means by a pair of "cruel shoes."

[Soups]

3rded for the Mythos. Great shoe. What size are you looking at? I have an extra pair that are basically new.

[adrenalated]

1) those two shoes are basically on complete opposite ends of the spectrum
2) because of the above you shouldn't limit yourself to those two choices
3) go to your closest climbing retailer (ideally an independent specialty store but REI or EMS or whatever will do, if you must) and have the staff help you find what fits. "What fits" is way different for a climbing shoe than an other footwear and it's basically not possible to buy climbing shoes online for this reason.

[hutash]

It certainly is possible to buy online climbing, granted it is not ideal, but it is very possible. Especially with beginner, lace up, trad shoes, which the Mythos are. Once you get into more specialized shoes, that is a different story. Beginners don't need that type if shoe.

[ASmileyFace]

I was in your same shoes a few years back. I went with the Mythos and have been very happy with them. As others have said, unless you're only climbing overhanging boulders you'll be happier with the Mythos.

And I 2nd trying them on before buying online. Sizing climbing shoes is tricky.

[LeoK]

IMHO you should try those shoes on. Often you find older models for cheap in local climbing shops. And you should stand on some small features with them or an the edge of some stairs. It is important you can stand with just the tip of your big toe as you will soon figure that this is often the correct way to place you foot. There should be no air in the shoe and it shall not hurt.
If you have absolutely no chance of trying on those shoes you should look carful at your foot and figure out your shape. Google "La Sportiva Last" to see the differences in wich toe is the longest and the general foot width.
Then I would look for a beginner specific shoe, Boreal Joker is popular here in europe but all brands make such offerings. Look also for the 5.10 Galileo and than other brands (Scarpa, La Sportiva, ...) and their respective models that are soft, not asymmetric, and have little downturn.


The Mythos is not such a shoe even if it is designed for comfort. You will feel restrictions due to it being very stiff and therefore not ideal for indoor bouldering and sport-climbing. The stiffness is there to help you safe some strength on long multi-pitch climbs. I recommend you beginner shoes because they are cheaper, too.

[berko]

Realistically, its going to take a good long while until you figure out how to use your feet well, regardless of what shoe you wear.

[TimVT]

Of the two I'd go with the Mythos in this case (thought the Shaman is one of my all time favorite shoes for advanced climbers), but there are several better options at better prices for a beginner. The Sportiva Tarantula, Scarpa Origin, and Black Diamond Momentum are all great shoes at half the price. Just like ski boots not every shoe fits every foot so it's best if you can try them on. I'd personally avoid high end, expensive shoes until you've been climbing for a while and know what you want from a shoe. As a beginner, you'll also probably wear out a high performance shoe before you're climbing at a level to reap the benefits of it.

[jackattack]

I’m not even a climber but I can tell you that climbingreviewed.com sucks. Media310 is that you?

[Dantheman]

And I 2nd trying them on before buying online. Sizing climbing shoes is tricky.

Order several shoes in a range of sizes from Zappos or BC.com. Try them all on at your leisure for as long as you'd like at home then return the rest. So much better than spending a minute or two in a shoe at a store. Return shipping is free by default at Zappos, BC.com gearheads will happily give you free return shipping upon request if you place the order through them since big orders like that look great on their stats. Best way to buy ski boots, too.

[Gloria]

As you just started you should go for a neutral shoesoffer a relaxed fit for all-day comfort. you can place your toes to lie flat inside the shoes.
SO i would recommend you to go for "La sportiva mythos".
Also if you want to go a little advanced then you can think about "La sportiva Katana Lace"

[Meadow Skipper]

If Dolores or anyone else wants a really, really good deal on a brand-new in the box, never used pair of 36.5 Mythos, PM me.

[ex-powderbroker]

weird fucking bots

[Wondo]

Really new to climbing and looking to buy my first pair of shoes! Would you guys recommend a soft shoe to gain strength in those muscles or a more still but still flat shoe?

[hutash]

I would get a stiff, lace up type shoe. Comfort is good and something you can wear all day as you hang about the crags getting on routes. Save the soft shoes until you are good enough to get the benefits.

[ASmileyFace]

I agree with hutash. As a beginner climber, cheaper is better. Get something stiffer and lace up like the Butora Advance/Mantra or La Sportiva Finale rather than a soft shoe like the 510 Moccasym. Also, there is little need to drop $180+ dollars on TC Pros because you'll wear through the rubber them extremely fast as a newbie. Find a good deal on a cheaper pair of shoes and wear them into the ground before moving onto nicer shoes that you will want to resole instead of trashing.

[JuiceboxHero]

Go with whatever fits best, no tight spots no loose spots just snug all around. But of those two I'd recommend the Mythos as well. As they break in they'll become more comfortable since the leather will stretch some, consider this when sizing them. The Shamans are synthetic as far as I know and won't stretch much.

Back when I was new(er) to climbing I got some aggressive shoes a bit too soon (they were on sale, couldn't resist). They did help me send harder routes with small feet but it was also a bit of a crutch, they didn't help improve my technique or strengthen my feet. They were also really uncomfortable.

My long-time favorite is the Scarpa Vapor V, good blend of comfort and performance. But if it doesn't fit your foot shape don't buy it.

If you're ordering online consider REI or Backcountry, they're both pretty generous with returns. Last time I ordered from Backcountry I ordered 3 different sizes and kept the one that fit.

[XXX-er]

hey Dolores is spamming you

so don't click on the links

normaly she spams the paddling but appears to be diversifying into climbing !

[kcsimms]

I would go with the Mythos

[thelongride]

Mythos...good all around beginner

[lockha31]

Mythos, the LS Cobra slippers are really nice as well

[rockskibock]

Just got into climbing indoors over the winter because its the best thing to do in the pnw on a rainy weeknight after work, but now that winters ending, anyone know a good spot in SW WA to climb outdoor for a relative newbie? I'm tired of the gym...