54t Star Ratchet upgrade?

**sethschmautz** · 01-31-2018, 08:45 AM

Anybody done the 36t or 54t DT Swiss star ratchet upgrade? I have a little money coming to use for an incrimental upgrade to the mountain bike and was curious if this is worth ~$100. I ride this bike a lot in the summer and it current has the 16t ratchet.

My other ideas include getting a dropper, doing a cheap 1x conversion, or upgrading some of the other parts for they fatty.

Is the star ratchet worthwhile?

Seth

**jm2e** · 01-31-2018, 10:01 AM

I did it and am glad I did. It brought a premium hub up to modern POE standards.
That said, if you’re still running an FD and a rigid post then you’ve got much bigger fish to fry.
$100 won’t go very far, but here are some thoughts if you can add a little to your budget:
Buy a maggot’s take off 1x10 drivetrain.
Buy a used SLX or XT brakeset (or just get a new one from Yurp).
Buy a Brand-X dropper.

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**Anospa** · 01-31-2018, 10:08 AM

Dropper all the way.

**sethschmautz** · 01-31-2018, 10:59 AM

I really should have provided a bit more info - my bad. The ratchet would go on my tallboy which has a 1x10, dropper, great suspension, etc. This is my daily driver in the summer.

However, I also picked up a fat bike that could benefit from upgrades also - specifically switching to 1x, dropper, better grips, saddle, bar, and eventually suspension and maybe a plus size wheelset.

Seth

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**jm2e** · 01-31-2018, 11:21 AM

The only thing that really makes me cringe is the idea of being on a bike without a dropper.

**Jonny Snow** · 01-31-2018, 01:12 PM

I had a 12 POE hub on a bike back in the day, while I got used to it, there's no way I'd run something like that now for serious riding.

**jetski** · 01-31-2018, 06:30 PM

Originally Posted by jm2e

The only thing that really makes me cringe is the idea of being on a bike without a dropper.

Me too. I would rather ride a hardtail with dropper than a full squish without one. I'm so soft.....

**Nwsno** · 01-31-2018, 07:39 PM

1x and dropper would take precedent for me. The faster hub engagement is really nice but isn’t as noticeable as the dropper advantage. What are you putting this on? And what kind of riding is your cup of tea?

**zlatham** · 01-31-2018, 09:05 PM

Originally Posted by Anospa

Dropper all the way.

+2, dropper will make the biggest difference in your riding experience, cant stress that enough!

**sethschmautz** · 01-31-2018, 11:02 PM

Thanks for the suggestions. To answer a few questions, my primary bike is a tallboy 1c that I ride on local trails. It's set up a little heavier for more versatility including a DPS in the rear, a pike up front, 1x, a dropper, and carbon wheels.

This winter I added a stock Kona Wo (2016). I have visions of turning that into a little more versatile hardtail by adding suspension, converting to 1x and eventually adding a 27.5+ wheelset.

There are more opportunities for lower cost upgrades on the Kona as the tallboy has seen most of those upgrades already.

1x should reduce weight and increase simplicity. It will be a bike packing/loaner bike for the summer I think.

Seth

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**sethschmautz** · 01-31-2018, 11:06 PM

Oh Man. Just thought about the MRP ramp control cartridge as an option also... Hmmm.

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**reynolds.trailrun** · 01-31-2018, 11:11 PM

Depends on type of riding. For techy riding high engagement is more useful than dropper. My old freeride hardtail got a dropper last season because I had a spare otherwise still would not have one on it.

**reynolds.trailrun** · 01-31-2018, 11:16 PM

Speaking of dropper I have a reverb a2, 125 mm if drop for a 30.9 seatpost tube. Bleed before being removed but not ridden after bleed. Has about 2 months of riding last fall before being replaced. Any interest for $125 shopped

**radam** · 02-01-2018, 07:48 AM

Originally Posted by sethschmautz

Oh Man. Just thought about the MRP ramp control cartridge as an option also... Hmmm.

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To me the MRP cartridge just seems like a dentist version of bottomless tokens. I'm sure the on the fly adjustability is nice, but I don't know that my riding varies enough and that frequently to make it worth $130 to not have to bother with a socket wrench and some pieces of plastic the one or two times a year I try something different. The Vorsprung luftkappe, on the other hand, seems like a better buy.

But with said, I think you'll get the most for your money by putting a dropper on your Wo and also getting new grips and bars. If you've got any sort of ergonomic/comfort complaint with your bar/grip combo, this could be as big a "performance" boost as anything.

**Nwsno** · 02-01-2018, 08:02 AM

So are you adding the $100 to the Kona or the Tall Boy?

Kona: I’d probably go with the star ratchets actually. I think 1x and a dropper is gonna be wasted on a bike packing bike. Or save the money for new wheels better suited for bike packing. Or bike packing gear.

Tallboy: the ramp cart is pretty neat but if the bulk of your riding is at the same trail system I have a hard time seeing the benefit. You should be able to set up the fork for those trails and not have to worry. But I’m more of a set and forget guy. I changed the # of tokens in my pike and lyrik once and haven’t looked back or ever wanted to change again.
Talking a bout star ratchets for the tallboy?...well it’s pretty set up now so why not. Or better brakes.....or another set of tires....or....

**Jonny Snow** · 02-01-2018, 08:05 AM

Originally Posted by sethschmautz

Oh Man. Just thought about the MRP ramp control cartridge as an option also... Hmmm.

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Looks neat, but I'll wait until I can get one on super closeout for $50. Under $120 on Art's Cyclery with code "arts10", and a bit less on ebay, btw.

**sethschmautz** · 02-01-2018, 08:40 AM

Originally Posted by Nwsno

So are you adding the $100 to the Kona or the Tall Boy?
....

Man, I have really struggled to communicate in this thread...

The ratchet would be for the tallboy. The dropper would be for the Wo.

Bars, grips, etc. would be for the Wo.

The 1x would actually be a mix. I have a 32x11-42 on the TB. That's usually okay, but for 20% of trails a 46 would be better. I would probably buy a 28t NW ring for the Wo and move the 11-42 over. Then buy a replacement 11-46 for the TB.

MRP would be for the TB. I agree with setting and forgetting, though. I'd probably do a lot with it at first, then nothing. Tokens are definitely cheaper.

Seth

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**Nwsno** · 02-01-2018, 08:45 AM

If you have a reverb on the TB here is another way to get rid of your 100
https://www.sram.com/rockshox/products/reverb-1x-remote

**sethschmautz** · 02-01-2018, 08:49 AM

Originally Posted by Nwsno

If you have a reverb on the TB here is another way to get rid of your 100
https://www.sram.com/rockshox/products/reverb-1x-remote

That's a good idea also. Although I don't have a reverb, I have considered a southpaw for the KS Supernatural that I have on the TB.

**sethschmautz** · 02-01-2018, 08:50 AM

Originally Posted by reynolds.trailrun

Speaking of dropper I have a reverb a2, 125 mm if drop for a 30.9 seatpost tube. Bleed before being removed but not ridden after bleed. Has about 2 months of riding last fall before being replaced. Any interest for $125 shopped

Stealth or non stealth? I don't think either of my bikes support stealth routing.

**Jonny Snow** · 02-01-2018, 09:06 AM

Originally Posted by sethschmautz

The 1x would actually be a mix. I have a 32x11-42 on the TB. That's usually okay, but for 20% of trails a 46 would be better. I would probably buy a 28t NW ring for the Wo and move the 11-42 over. Then buy a replacement 11-46 for the TB.

I'm sure you've seen this, which should work for any 10-spd Shimano clutch derailleur:

https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...eed-derailleur

**sethschmautz** · 02-01-2018, 10:05 AM

Originally Posted by Jonny Snow

I'm sure you've seen this, which should work for any 10-spd Shimano clutch derailleur:

https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...eed-derailleur

I have seen it. Is this better than the goat link? If so, how?

**Jonny Snow** · 02-01-2018, 10:17 AM

Originally Posted by sethschmautz

I have seen it. Is this better than the goat link? If so, how?

I like the goat link, but it has the disadvantage of putting the pulley really far away from the smaller cogs, which may lead to vague shifts.

**milestogo** · 02-01-2018, 10:35 AM

Southpaw lever is a must have--its totally intuitive.
54t upgrade is also great. There is a chinese option for 1/2 price on ebay that gets mixed reviews, but also has a warranty. You can get that and then keep the 18t in the camelback in case of issues

**sethschmautz** · 02-01-2018, 10:57 AM

Originally Posted by milestogo

Southpaw lever is a must have--its totally intuitive.
54t upgrade is also great. There is a chinese option for 1/2 price on ebay that gets mixed reviews, but also has a warranty. You can get that and then keep the 18t in the camelback in case of issues

So I've serviced my own hubs and I've always pulled my cassette when doing the rear. Wouldn't I have to have a chain whip and a cassette tool to swap this on the trail?

Where are you seeing the mixed reviews - would like to read those.

Seth

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