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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    Ogden
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    9,158

    Best edge tool for casual user?

    I have to admit that I've never been one to do much with my edges. Living in the land of soft snow I never had to pay much attention, but I've hit quite a few rocks this year and the underfoot section of my edges are pretty haggard. Any recommendations for the best/easiest to use edge tool? What stone would be the best for cleaning them up? Not looking for razor sharp, just a clean edge for all around use.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    between campus and church
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    9,970
    I use a SKS multi-tuner.

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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peruvian View Post
    I use a SKS multi-tuner.
    +1

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Ogden
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    Yep, that looks perfectly easy. I'm assuming for the type of quick clean up I'm looking for the file would be fine? Or should I go with the three diamond stones too?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Wenatchee
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    14,731
    Quote Originally Posted by zion zig zag View Post
    Yep, that looks perfectly easy. I'm assuming for the type of quick clean up I'm looking for the file would be fine? Or should I go with the three diamond stones too?
    The stones will be better for cleaning up the work hardened edges.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Fresh Lake City
    Posts
    4,579
    I like a normal steel file with a swix guide or something similar, quick and easy.

    If your edges and bases are haggard, a professional stone grind could be the ticket. plus getting a little structure in your base p-tex will help your skis go faster

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Richmond, VA
    Posts
    47
    +1 SKS with stones

    Sent from my SM-T580 using TGR Forums mobile app

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    1,279
    Quote Originally Posted by MagnificentUnicorn View Post
    The stones will be better for cleaning up the work hardened edges.
    +1

    I also do wood-working stuff, and have large diamond "stones." They are simply really, really nice. And the coarse stone will be FAR better at cleaning up burrs and jaggies than a file will. The diamond stones are really very very handy. Toss the black one in your pocket to do edge de-tuning on the hill too. (Just don't lose it.)

    While they are substantially more money, I really feel they're worth it. You'll take off less material with the diamond and end up with sharp edges faster, IMO.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    17,757
    If you get this and a spring clamp it will last a lifetime.
    http://svst.com/Shop/SVST-Side-Edge-...er-91-Deg.html
    Allows you to use whatever you want on the side--file, diamond stone, etc.
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Teton Village
    Posts
    2,674
    ^^^ Right on Timberidge.

    I watch people fiddle with sharpening tools/all-in-ones/gadgets all the time. I think they’re way more difficult to use than the real thing. I think it’s hard to get consistent results.

    Get a side edge file guide and a couple of files. RaceWax makes a cheap one @ $20 and the snazzy SVST one is $50+.
    Ski Shop - Basement of the Hostel



    Do not tell fish stories where the people know you; but particularly, don't tell them where they know the fish.

    Mark Twain

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    cow hampshire
    Posts
    8,380
    Quote Originally Posted by gregorys View Post
    +1

    I also do wood-working stuff, and have large diamond "stones." They are simply really, really nice. And the coarse stone will be FAR better at cleaning up burrs and jaggies than a file will. The diamond stones are really very very handy. Toss the black one in your pocket to do edge de-tuning on the hill too. (Just don't lose it.)

    While they are substantially more money, I really feel they're worth it. You'll take off less material with the diamond and end up with sharp edges faster, IMO.
    A file is much better for a quick clean and the diamond is for the finish or a quick buff. And nobody gives a shit about taking off too much material. That's just worrying about something that is of no significance.

    All you need to do it hit the side edge hard (because it's quick and easy) and then the flat quick with the file or a diamond and you're good to go. Not gadgets needed.
    Unless your a WC gate skier, then you probably should not be on tgr asking advice.


  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    On another tangent.
    Posts
    3,855
    My experience with DMT stones is they do not last nearly as long as other diamonds or basic aluminum oxide or natural stones. Use diamonds or stones for regular maintenance and every once in a while a 2nd cut or fine file to remove more material for faster sharpening, follow by stones. A more aggressive bastard file is great for quick changes to side edge angles or to set initial geometry.

    Dedicated guides with spring clamps allow you unlimited choices as to what you can use for your preferred edge cutting methodology and goals.

    Don't forget that you do need to deal with side wall removal.

    Deburr with a stone or diamond before any tuning and waxing. A work hardened edge will destroy files.

    This guy boiled it all down for a school project:

    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
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  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Missoula, MT
    Posts
    22,482
    DMT's are definitely not great, so if you can spend the money on something better, do it. Moonflex should still fit in the SKS.

    Again, it needs to be said, you're going to want to use the stones a lot more than the file.
    No longer stuck.

    Quote Originally Posted by stuckathuntermtn View Post
    Just an uneducated guess.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Missoula, MT
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    22,482
    Quote Originally Posted by jackstraw View Post
    A file is much better for a quick clean and the diamond is for the finish or a quick buff. And nobody gives a shit about taking off too much material. That's just worrying about something that is of no significance.

    All you need to do it hit the side edge hard (because it's quick and easy) and then the flat quick with the file or a diamond and you're good to go. Not gadgets needed.
    Unless your a WC gate skier, then you probably should not be on tgr asking advice.

    Not every ski comes with double-thick edges. It's much better to use stones. If you're not racing, you really don't need to sharpen your edges very much with a file. Plus, without stones, you can wind up with a bunch of grabby, uneven edges, and a trashed file.
    No longer stuck.

    Quote Originally Posted by stuckathuntermtn View Post
    Just an uneducated guess.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
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    31,041
    check yer piece of 2x2 for squareness with a T-square, clamp a single cut file to it with a C-clamp and git edging eh?

    I have done this^^ but I got some kind of plastic jig with a thumb screw and a 90 on one side and an 88 on the other side
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Gallatin County
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    1,557
    While I agree that DMT stones aren't the best, the diamond stones do need cleaning after use as they load up. Regular cleaning of the diamond stones makes them more effective. Kitchen abrasive cleaner, water and a tooth brush work well.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    17,757
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    check yer piece of 2x2 for squareness with a T-square, clamp a single cut file to it with a C-clamp and git edging eh?
    Now you've gone a bit too far
    Plus 90 degrees on EC ice, may as well have lunch trays on yer feet.

    Not sure what size 70 or 100mm Moonflex fits in the SKS thingy, but I buy the 100 Moonflex and they are long enough to span the gap on the Beast or SVST base bevel guide and touch up any hangnails there--70's too short . 100 serves double duty for not much more $ than the 70mm shorter one which can only do a side edge.
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Driving2VT
    Posts
    4,598

    Best edge tool for casual user?

    Serious question. I am lazy. Summer wax on post season off preseason. Every two seasons I hand skis to the Mt. shop rat and pay $10 + a few bucks to tip jar for edge sharpening.
    Am I missing something?
    What’s up zzz?
    I’ll add I love shop work and have done many mounts but never got into edges....
    Uno mas

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Alpental
    Posts
    6,577
    Quote Originally Posted by Doremite View Post
    Serious question. I am lazy. Summer wax on post season off preseason. Every two seasons I hand skis to the Mt. shop rat and pay $10 + a few bucks to tip jar for edge sharpening.
    Am I missing something?
    What’s up zzz?
    I’ll add I love shop work and have done many mounts but never got into edges....
    You are in the backcountry and hit a rock that causes edge damage, and that edge damage increases drag and reduces glide. Do I a) take out a stone and remove the jagged hangers and burrs or b) wait until I'm at the shop to have a teenager do it for me?

    It's really less about having perfectly sharp edges and more about having clean edges.

    Dragging a file across a case-hardened rock hit is a good way to mess up the teeth on the file. I use the SVST diamond stones when I'm in my shop, but any coarse (80-120) pocket stone (and a little spittle) will work to bring down the burrs remove the case-hardened material and allow subsequent files to pull clean. The diamond stones do need to be used wet to prevent them from wearing out quickly- I use a 60% IPA soln with a drop of dish soap in it, and then cleaned afterward(a toothbrush works well).

    Or if that sounds like too much work, get some 80-100 grit sand paper and wrap it around a file and just toss it when it's dirty. Works fine too.
    Move upside and let the man go through...

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    2,206
    Does anyone use the SkiVisions gear for tuning on here? I bought some of it last year for doing a good job of cleaning up core shots and was thinking about getting the edge tuning tools too.

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    31,041
    Quote Originally Posted by Timberridge View Post
    Now you've gone a bit too far
    Plus 90 degrees on EC ice, may as well have lunch trays on yer feet. .
    yeah I need to ski on EC ice like I need a dick growing out of my forehead, If I had to ski back thar I would probably just give up skiing
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Driving2VT
    Posts
    4,598

    Best edge tool for casual user?

    Quote Originally Posted by Mofro261 View Post
    You are in the backcountry and hit a rock that causes edge damage, and that edge damage increases drag and reduces glide. Do I a) take out a stone and remove the jagged hangers and burrs or b) wait until I'm at the shop to have a teenager do it for me?

    It's really less about having perfectly sharp edges and more about having clean edges.
    Was thinking more from a performance angle than a repair one. Self repair makes sense. I guess I am just been agnostic from a performance standpoint unless conditions blow and your edges are shot..... but those conditions only marginally more fun w/ edges anyway.
    Uno mas

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    At the North end of the Parkway
    Posts
    1,791
    Quote Originally Posted by BRUTAH View Post
    I like a normal steel file with a swix guide or something similar, quick and easy.

    If your edges and bases are haggard, a professional stone grind could be the ticket. plus getting a little structure in your base p-tex will help your skis go faster
    I'm in a grumpy mood so take it as you will. If you have edge issues don't ask for a stone grind, if you ever see sparks on a stone you are fucked until that gets belt ground again. The stone finishes your base, it doesn't take down edges. Belts are for base edges ( I like a brown belt), belt or ceramic for side edge and stone is only for the base. The stone puts structure on the base, you don't want that structure on your edge ever.

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    3,429
    Quote Originally Posted by thejongiest View Post
    Does anyone use the SkiVisions gear for tuning on here? I bought some of it last year for doing a good job of cleaning up core shots and was thinking about getting the edge tuning tools too.
    This is one of the final tools on my list for the ski bench. I have a few of the base tools and would really like to add this. Seems super simple and Terry states that it's a great tool, albeit a little more expensive than the guide and stone/file route. Because of how often I would use it (not that often), I think it would be a good fit for me - seems dead simple to use.

    Seth

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    725
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