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  1. #1
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    Dalbello Lupo 120AX - How to increase forward lean?

    Coming from Titans, I feel like these Lupo's have much less forward lean, and subsequently I'm really pressuring my shins to get into that aggressive position I prefer. Once I've flexed the boot forward though, the rear walk mechanism is hovering above it's stop, and when the elastic nature of the flex-return hits, it throws me backseat much more than I'd like.

    I live in the PNW and ski dense, moisture rich, sticky snow. When I'm engaged forward, and my skis hit a sticky section, I'm getting rocked into the backseat in a way my old Titans never did. Alot less confident in these at speed than my Titan's, despite more comfort, stiffer, more progressive flex etc...

    How can a guy increase the forward lean?

    Or is there something else I'm missing?

    Thanks.

  2. #2
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    Dalbello Lupo 120AX - How to increase forward lean?

    I drilled the cuff on my lupo carbon ti’s and screw in a spoiler from a lupo sp. put the same in my vulcans and tlt6’s. Tlt is just some random spoilers that I shaped with an exacto knife.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by BCJC View Post
    more progressive flex.
    This is commonly misunderstood, the flex of three piece shell is linear compared to a standard overlap design.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by ACH View Post
    This is commonly misunderstood, the flex of three piece shell is linear compared to a standard overlap design.


    Yes, this misconception winds me up.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by grinch View Post
    I drilled the cuff on my lupo carbon ti’s and screw in a spoiler from a lupo sp. put the same in my vulcans and tlt6’s. Tlt is just some random spoilers that I shaped with an exacto knife.
    How much difference did you feel? I've never used a spoiler, will it "tighten" up the calf area?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by ACH View Post
    This is commonly misunderstood, the flex of three piece shell is linear compared to a standard overlap design.
    Right. These are my first 3 piece boots. And the "linear" flex is the issue when it returns so abruptly and the boot almost slams back to vertical.

  7. #7
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    Dalbello Lupo 120AX - How to increase forward lean?

    Quote Originally Posted by BCJC View Post
    How much difference did you feel? I've never used a spoiler, will it "tighten" up the calf area?
    Not so much tighten up the calf. Same tightness with buckles adjusted for the difference. I was just getting thrown in the backseat without the forward lean spoilers like you mentioned. Allows me to stay centred and still pressuring the tongues/shins. Lupo sp comes with two options for a spoiler (thick and less thick). I’ve settled on the thinner ones but I’d use either as opposed to none

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by grinch View Post
    Not so much tighten up the calf. Same tightness with buckles adjusted for the difference. I was just getting thrown in the backseat without the forward lean spoilers like you mentioned. Allows me to stay centred and still pressuring the tongues/shins. Lupo sp comes with two options for a spoiler (thick and less thick). I’ve settled on the thinner ones but I’d use either as opposed to none
    Great feedback, thanks!

    Do you, or anyone else, know if the SP and 120ax are similar enough for those spoilers to work in my boots?

  9. #9
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    https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...75#post4451075

    Not the cleanest execution, but you get the idea.

  10. #10
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    Turns out Dalbello spoilers are hard to come by. I ended up with a set for Kryptons and decided what the heck I'll throw them on.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Not sure about the gap in the below pic. There's a square tab on the back side of the spoiler, and it doesn't seem to fit into the cuff anywhere, is this normal?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    With one in and both boots on, I can feel a slight increase in forward lean. I guess I'll try them out and see.

    ETA: Not sure why the pics are sideways...

  11. #11
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    Nice! That’ll work. I trimmed off that raised tab with an exacto knife. Mine also don’t sit flush at the outer edges like yours. Flush when o do the buckles up so no problems

  12. #12
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    Has anybody had success with punching / molding room for medial ankle bone? I've put this boot on a half dozen different people and literally 0 of them have room around the ankle bone. The fiber charged cuff will crack if you punch it. So....throw them in the oven? Thoughts?

  13. #13
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    Lupo are very upright....

    Shim under the binding under the heel, to increase overall ramp angle of the boot binding. I doubt the spoiled will do what your looking for.

  14. #14
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    Funny, I don't think the ax 120 is too upright. It seems right on for me. What I do notice is that the ramp seems very flat, which I really like. Also coming off a Head Vector 120 the ax 120 seems much stiffer and supportive. Maybe it's a combination of stiffness and ramp that bother some?

  15. #15
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    Sort of answered my own question here. That fiber cuff does soften up in the oven. Some people report that it will take a punch after soaking in hot water, but I opted for baking the boots at 250 F for just under 8 minutes. Use 5 mm medium or high density foam for padding tight spots. Stand in them for 10 minutes.

    Of note: important to remove the tongues. I took out the boot board as well but that may be overkill.

  16. #16
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    Why not just add and material to the hike mode lever? Just JB weld 3 mm of something ridgid in there, should kick you forward

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by erik_the_red View Post
    Why not just add and material to the hike mode lever? Just JB weld 3 mm of something ridgid in there, should kick you forward
    this makes sense to me too. that is basically how you increase the forward lean on the krypton. a little wedge back behind the heel.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by margotron View Post
    this makes sense to me too. that is basically how you increase the forward lean on the krypton. a little wedge back behind the heel.
    That was how the Flexon worked too...
    That said you permanently limit the ROM with that method.

    On my forward lean shims, I laminated them with self adhesive, 1/8″ thick, closed cell EVA foam on both sides.
    It does three things for my particular situation:
    1) My calves are narrow and taper where they enter the boot so this sucks up some extra unneeded volume
    2) The eva on the shim holds it's position relative to the cuff and liner
    3) I can remove it (like the tongue) when in tour mode so I don't limit the ROM

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushwacka View Post
    Lupo are very upright....

    Shim under the binding under the heel, to increase overall ramp angle of the boot binding. I doubt the spoiled will do what your looking for.
    i hate to be 'that guy' but altering the ramp angle/zeppa is different than modifying the boot shaft angle/delta. increasing ramp angle will only mess things up further if he can't get the ankle flexion he needs.

    Quote Originally Posted by ACH View Post
    That was how the Flexon worked too...
    That said you permanently limit the ROM with that method.

    On my forward lean shims, I laminated them with self adhesive, 1/8″ thick, closed cell EVA foam on both sides.
    It does three things for my particular situation:
    1) My calves are narrow and taper where they enter the boot so this sucks up some extra unneeded volume
    2) The eva on the shim holds it's position relative to the cuff and liner
    3) I can remove it (like the tongue) when in tour mode so I don't limit the ROM
    Do you have a tutorial and/or pics posted somewhere?
    Last edited by margotron; 04-16-2018 at 09:10 PM.

  20. #20
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    Just to update: I mostly toured this winter, so used the boots with my Radical FT12's, which have a pretty decent ramp angle. I think due to the angle, plus the spoilers, it remedied the problem enough for me (for now).

    I think I'll investigate bioicon's heel shim for next season:
    https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/....php?p=5284364

    Also, I attached my spoilers with a t nut, and didn't feel the need to remove them for touring, as the lupo's have a tonne of rear travel imo. One less thing to faff around with during change over too.

  21. #21
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    Where's where I've ended up. Two screws per shim. Countersunk and dremeled flush.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by margotron View Post
    Where's where I've ended up. Two screws per shim. Countersunk and dremeled flush.
    Great job margotron.

    I'm revisiting this issue with my lupos. Can you share more about your mod, materials used etc?

    Thanks.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by margotron View Post
    Where's where I've ended up. Two screws per shim. Countersunk and dremeled flush.
    Chopping board? Made some nice Dynafit Radical shims with an old chopping board once. It’s was about 6mm.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  24. #24
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    Cool. Am I crazy in thinking you could put a cap on the leaver to achieve something similar?


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by rob stokes View Post
    Chopping board? Made some nice Dynafit Radical shims with an old chopping board once. It’s was about 6mm.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Actually leftover shims from Kryptons. most boot shops have extras and dalbello will certianly mail you some. And there is about a million of them lying around here on the forums if you ask i bet

    Quote Originally Posted by mtnwriter View Post
    Cool. Am I crazy in thinking you could put a cap on the leaver to achieve something similar?


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    not crazy at all. Just gotta work

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