Chamonix/Courmayeur Trip Advice

[peds]

I don't want to sway you one way or the other, as I do the VB all the time and have never fallen in a hole, but earlier today a guy plunged clean through a powder snow bridge and came to a halt -just- over 30m down. He was pulled out after the efforts of a growing team, without his skis but with his life.

Follow tracks, sure, loads of people do it and get home fine, literally thousands. Hire a guide and you'll probably have better, safer skiing.

Edit:
Hire a guide and you'll also help falsify this joke... what's the difference between a mountain guide and a large pizza? The pizza can feed a family.

[LegoSkier]

Apres ski in Courmayeur if you like sitting in hot water with a grand view of the Alps:
https://www.qcterme.com/it/pre-saint...e-saint-didier

[old goat]

I've been to Chamonix twice. Both years professionals were killed in crevasses on the regular VB --once a guide, once a PGHM--you know--the mountain police. People who know the area, know what the conditions have been like, have big mountain experience and knowledge ski the VB all the time safely. The people who say it's fine to ski without a guide generally fit that description. For gapers like us, hire a guide. A lot of people arrive and leave on Saturday and plan to do the VB on Fri and that day is usually booked in advance, at least for groups at the main guide office in the center of town. If it's just the two of you you can hire a private guide but it will cost about twice as much. I've only skied there in March and was able to do VB's without advance booking (booked the night before) but if February is as busy as people say I'd book in advance. Check out the website for the Compagnie des Guides des Chamonix. Notice how the names of a number of guides are the same as the names of the streets in town. A lot of tradition there.

There's a free bus from various places in Chamonix to GM in Argentiere.

When you're at Courmayeur you'll be looking at the massive south face of Mt Blanc--from the valley at the base to the summit is 10,000 vertical feet. The little cliff band at the top is the Freney face--2000 vertical feet. One of the guides we skied with holds the record for the fastest winter ascent of the face by a particularly difficult route--6 days.

[ADKmike]

Thanks for the info so far all!

Trip is coming together, I've got lodging, rental car, and route from Paris figured out.


A few questions I've thought about recently:


1. Staying in an AirBnB walking distance to Chamonix Panpraz lift. This should make skiing Brevent/Le Flegere very easy. However, is this a good point to access these two areas, as in, I can start here ski all the way across to Le Flegere, and back to end here and walk back home? Is that realistic for one day to explre all that area?

2. Based on the location I described my AirBnB to be in (see #1 above), I believe this is pretty close to "main nightlife area" in Chamonix?

3. I'm driving from Paris to Cham (returning the rental car to Geneva to fly home), and have a few concerns. I got a "intermediate SUV" whatever the F that means(expecting something Rav4 or Nissan Juke-ish), but Hertz can't guarantee AWD. Maybe it will have it, maybe it won't. While I don't doubt my driving abilities, I do not want any bullshit or time wasting with 4WD/Chain laws and road access issues after 6 hrs on the road from Paris. I have a feeling getting rental car from Hertz in Paris (in the city, not the airport) will be difficult to get chains or even snow tires for that matter.

So...what's the deal with driving into Chamonix from Paris...will I be able to make it (legally) or am I gonna have to buy some chains somewhere along the way to even pass the road requirements?

4. Discounted lift tix, do they exist? Where to buy? etc. etc.
Probably will be looking for the Mont Blanc Unlimited Pass, since I hear you get tunnel discount, which I'll use to go to Italy. Can you buy this at any lift in the valley?

5. Always looking for suggestions for where to eat and drink in both Cham and Courmayeur

[LeoK]

1. Yes one day forth and back is fairly possible.

2. Chamonix is small enough to walk everywhere.

3. Don't worry. Highway almost all the way to chamonix.

4. Unlimited Passes are available everywhere. Don't know if you can trick yourself into other discounts

5. I like Chambre 9 and the bar across the street. The Microbrewery is fun too but I prefer the mont blanc beer you get elswhere. Don't miss out on tartiflette and french bakery.

[old goat]

1. Yes one day forth and back is fairly possible.

2. Chamonix is small enough to walk everywhere.

3. Don't worry. Highway almost all the way to chamonix.

4. Unlimited Passes are available everywhere. Don't know if you can trick yourself into other discounts

5. I like Chambre 9 and the bar across the street. The Microbrewery is fun too but I prefer the mont blanc beer you get elswhere. Don't miss out on tartiflette and french bakery.

I've skied Brevent to Flegere and back easily in a day--of course it depends on what kind of sking you (ADKmike) do. Both times I was there the snow was sparse and it was unseasonably warm so we stuck mainly to groomers. If you do some of the more serious off-piste there's probably no reason you'd want to ski across and back. If the snow is good there's plenty at Brevent off piste to keep you busy. (I've also hiked from Brevent to Flegere and back easily in a day in the summer. We took the cable car back down rather than the parapent.
We stayed in the center of town, next to the building with the guide office. We had no problem walking to Brevent and the Aiguille du Midi tram. The only time we used transportation was to go to GM and Courmayeur.
Re pass--the rack rate is half what a day ticket to Squaw costs, not including Carre Neige (rescue insurance).

[nortonwhis]

If you don't gain 20lbs from excessive tartiflette, cheese, saucisson, Jambon and baguette consumption you cannot claim it was a good trip.

[ADKmike]

Hoping the weather works out in favor of doing:

Day 1: For ease of getting adjusted to the area, walk to Brevent Panpraz lift, get Mont Blanc Unlimited passes for 3 days, and ski Brevent Le Flegere first day. Check out Cham downtown that night.

Day 2: Use unlimited pass to get discount on tunnel and head to Courmayeur, followed by trying to maybe do dinner at one of the mountain refuges...Rifugio Maison Vieille looks cool. Then check out Courmayeur downtown area.

Day 3: Let my wife sleep in, get up super early and go to GM for as much skiing as I can get in a half day. Come back, pick her up, then take a ride on the Aiguille du Midi to take some touristy pics and whatnot.

[ADKmike]

Will be there in less than a week - how's things been out there? Weather looking good for end of next week?

Also, maybe one of you local guys can help answer this - what time do the ticket windows open at Brevent PlanPraz gondola in the morning? I believe the lift runs around 8:50, but how early can you get in line to buy a ticket? Also, is there somewhere to park at that lift that's convenient?

Thanks

[PNWbrit]

There is a small parking garage at the base of Brevent. It's a very small base area basically just a neighborhood of Chamonix.

There aren't usually lines to buy tickets.

[ADKmike]

There is a small parking garage at the base of Brevent. It's a very small base area basically just a neighborhood of Chamonix.

There aren't usually lines to buy tickets.

From what I have gathered, it's a French holiday period while I'll be there. I figured it would be busy everywhere.

For those who are locals or who have been here during holiday periods...does the area handle the crowds well?

[Base733]

My wife and I have been in Chamonix for the last two weeks and definitely have seen the crowds increase but nothing outrageous though we do make reservations for dinner just to avoid disappointment. Did the VB yesterday and it was fresh powder and sunny, couldn’t have asked for a better day. Used Compaganie des Guides des Chamonix to get added to a group ( a “collective” on their website I think. )which was reasonably priced but the group was only able to ski as fast as the slowest skier which was not me this time. In retrospect, I would still use a guide but maybe get one for just my wife and I alone so that we had more freedom. The arrête was hardpacked and we used crampons which made it straightforward. Gear rental has been good quality and price from Snell Sports which is in the center of town. Looking to sell a kidney to move here.

[hafjell]

Looking to sell a kidney to move here.

Ha! The Euro ski lifestyle is pretty compelling.

[ADKmike]

Stoked for this trip! Hopefully the crowds stay under control...trying to cover a lot of ground in 3 days.

[bbergey]

Stoked for this trip! Hopefully the crowds stay under control...trying to cover a lot of ground in 3 days.

Oh man - wish we could trade lives for those three days! Have fun. Post a pic!

[BGSTi_403]

For weather, I like to look at:

http://chamonix-meteo.com/chamonix-m...r_forecast.php

Its updated twice a day with a pretty good writeup.


This is also a decent summary of the conditions with some video as well:

https://www.chamonix.net/english/snow-reports


This is another channel with video reports of the conditions:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCqS...35Zuk7AjtQHsnA


As you have probably seen, the official site also has a daily video snow report, but in my experience that one is pretty useless.

Have fun out there and stay safe.

[ADKmike]

Thanks for those links!


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[Sparky]

Stay with Gary B, rock star of the Crevassholes , and all round total fucking legend , if you are very lucky he might even show you round. Old school Maggots

[BGSTi_403]

Thanks for those links!


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I expect you to reciprocate with heavy contribution to my upcoming thread "How the f@ck does anyone know when are the opening the Slides?"

[ADKmike]

I expect you to reciprocate with heavy contribution to my upcoming thread "How the f@ck does anyone know when are the opening the Slides?"

Haha such a mystery....have your “beacon and probe” on tap, as it’s sorta like a ‘weed-out’ procedure


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[ADKmike]

Just returned from the trip. I fucking love the alps.

...hopefully will find some time to post a TR




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[comish]

Nice. I see Brevent and Flegere, what about Midi or Grands Montets?

[Benny Profane]

Nice.

[ADKmike]

Nice. I see Brevent and Flegere, what about Midi or Grands Montets?

Since we were only there 4 days (3 actual full days), there wasn't enough time to hit everywhere I may have wanted to - especially given that I had my wife with me, who is not on my level. Def need a longer trip next time.

She ended up hanging back last minute the first day, instead of the planned last day, so I ended up at Brevent - Flegere skiing solo since it was walking distance from our place to Plan Praz gondola. I may have done Grands Montets had I of known she wasn't gonna ski the first day, but it was just simple to start with Brevent the first day since we were right there. Then we did Courmayeur the 2nd day, which in reality was a better move for my wife for her first day, with more intermediate friendly terrain. Also I got to ski more of the good stuff at Brevent-Flegere that first day without her. Then we did Brevent-Flegere again on the last day, since I scoped it out the first day and knew how to get around quickly and where she could/could not go.

Also, I felt Grands Montets may not have been the best move since it hadn't snowed all week. But maybe I'm wrong on that who knows. I did find some really nice leftovers around Brevent - Flegere.

Wanted to take a ride of the Midi, but the afternoon I planned to do it, it was encased in clouds so we ended up skiing longer that day instead.

Will give me something new to see when I come back some day!