Glue on skins has become gummy

[cpj.slc]

I went out on my first tour of the year yesterday and I discovered that over the summer the skin glue had become really gummy and viscous. This is a pair of BC.com branded G3 skins

I stored the skins in my storage room in my basement, so the temp would have been around 68-70 degrees all summer. I checked the other skins (which are Black Diamond) stored in that same room and the glue on those were normal.

Would bc.com warranty these? Can I get new glue to apply?

Thanks for the help!

[cpj.slc]

Oh, one more question. After I pulled the skins off my bases, there was a fair amount of glue on the skis. Any advice on what I can clean the bases with/ what to avoid cleaning the bases with?

[XXX-er]

Duno about warranty but what you can try first is ironing the old glue

if the glue is fucked you can reglue with sheet transfer sheets of glue or i like tubes of gold label cuz its 1/3 of the price so I can reglue a set for< 15$ with a tube or pay 50$ for the transfer sheets, you are sposed to heat either one to properly apply and the end result is the same

you can clean glue off the bases with base cleaner or some kind of solvent

IME G3/BD/pomoca will all fuck up IMO the best thing you can do fer yer glew is don't let water dry on the glue, drying yer skins after use is really about drying the glue off cuz the plush don't care if it gets wet

[cpj.slc]

Duno about warranty but what you can try first is ironing the old glue

When you say ironing, what do you mean exactly? Like use a hot iron that I would use to iron a shirt? Put the iron on the skin, not glue side? I'm not familiar with this fix.

Thanks for the advice. Much appreciated.

[dewam]

For cleaning the ski:
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...-stuck-to-skis

[Meadow Skipper]

google regaling skins videos. To get the gummy glue off you can use an iron on brown paper from paper bags over the glue, or heat it with a heat gun and scrape with a metal scraper. You'll probably want to scrape after the paper bag method anyway.

Replace with BD Gold Lable glue, which incidentally comes with instructions.

[XXX-er]

When you say ironing, what do you mean exactly? Like use a hot iron that I would use to iron a shirt? Put the iron on the skin, not glue side? I'm not familiar with this fix.

Thanks for the advice. Much appreciated.

well you can use an iron direct if you know what the required feel is so you don't gush hot glue everywhere but the safer way is to tack the skins down, cover the bases with baking parchment paper NOT WAX PAPER and iron them at medium setting which is a higher setting than you use for waxing, on my digital wax iron I max it out at 320

Its good to have the skin on a piece of plywood that you can put out side in the cold and after a few hrs the paper will peel right off and give you a smoove surface

if the glue still migrates its time to reglue but this^^ costs you nothing to try

[XXX-er]

google regaling skins videos. To get the gummy glue off you can use an iron on brown paper from paper bags over the glue, or heat it with a heat gun and scrape with a metal scraper. You'll probably want to scrape after the paper bag method anyway.

Replace with BD Gold Lable glue, which incidentally comes with instructions.

Alot of folks don't read instructions so they just add glue without reheating and say it work but how good?

I like to use the hot air gun and a 4" scraper to remove all the glue, the key is to tie that skin down so it don't move and have somewhere to wipe all the glue smooo

There are good how-to glues on the WWW, lotsa people see/do that paper bag thing (which i have never tried ) my ski bro the MD did it , ran out of paper bags and used news paper ... made one fuck of a mess

called me up , I went over with hot air gun and iron to finish the job

make a snide remark that it a good thing some people still make house calls

[Meadow Skipper]

Yeah well, I was gonna say more or less the same thing about the iron/paper bag method but a lot of people don't have a heat gun handy, and if you keep after it the paper bag method will work eventually. I'm ME the heat gun method is way superior.

Andrew McLean/straightchuter has a reglueing video out there where he says if your glue's not working you don't really have to scrape the old stuff, but that's not gonna work for gummy glue like the OP.

The conventional wisdom used to be that warm storage causes gummy glue, but I'm coming to think it's more likely just funky batches of glue...but I've been wrong before.

[Peruvian]

I’ve had luck heating a 2” metal putty knife slightly with a torch and using it to scrape off old glue. Then put a ribbon of gold label down each side of the center strip and use the warmed knife to spread it out.

[XXX-er]

heat guns are pretty fucking cheap on sale and have a alot of practical uses but if you don't have a heat gun just borrow your wifes hair dryer and tell her I said it was OK

did i mention I been married twice and buying a heat gun might be cheaper?

you know that glueless strip is just a piece of heavy duty ribbon stuck on top of the original glue job ? So I just pull the ribbon off for the re-glue and stick it back on after

In fact if you are stuck out there with a skin that won't stick to the ski just pull the ribbon off and you got some fresh glue underneath

[Yukonrider]

Someone told me it was a nightmare, and buying new skins was easier.

[Peruvian]

Someone told me it was a nightmare, and buying new skins was easier.

Feel free to send me your old skins.

[XXX-er]

Someone told me it was a nightmare, and buying new skins was easier.

ya and so that would prove some ^^ people can fuck up a wet dream eh?

like I said earlier the ,main thing is to BE PREPARED so I got a designated 16" cut off of a 4x8 sheet of plywood as my work surface which I can take outside to let the solvents off gas and the glue get cold

I use drywall screws/string/bits of wire to stretch the skins out parallel to each other, a roll of parchment, a heat gun and a putty knife, something to wipe it on and a 15$ tube of gold label

It used to be that skis got wider faster than skins wore out so buying new skins is what happened but width has kind of plateaued and so you might wana learn the how-to for your ok but used skins with shitty glue and its only 15$ compared to hundreds for new skins

[Yukonrider]

Feel free to send me your old skins.

ya and so that would prove some ^^ people can fuck up a wet dream eh?

like I said earlier the ,main thing is to BE PREPARED so I got a designated 16" cut off of a 4x8 sheet of plywood as my work surface which I can take outside to let the solvents off gas and the glue get cold

Tapatalk cut off the second half of my reply which said:

You guys make it sound not too bad, going to see if I can find skin glue in town and will report back tomorrow with results.

[Meadow Skipper]

you know that glueless strip is just a piece of heavy duty ribbon stuck on top of the original glue job ? So I just pull the ribbon off for the re-glue and stick it back on after

In fact if you are stuck out there with a skin that won't stick to the ski just pull the ribbon off and you got some fresh glue underneath

I don't bother re-sticking that ribbon on. Anyone that wants some can pm me.

Feel free to send me your old skins.

Heh.

[XXX-er]

well it makes them easier to seperate is all, you could acomplish the same thing by owning a golden retriever

[blur]

Had this happen to my G3 skins I bought last year, sent G3 e-mail, told me to send them back and they would send me a new pair. Got a email from them they are sending them out. Hopefully they actually come.

Sent from my XT1254 using TGR Forums mobile app

[cpj.slc]

Had this happen to my G3 skins I bought last year, sent G3 e-mail, told me to send them back and they would send me a new pair. Got a email from them they are sending them out. Hopefully they actually come.

Sent from my XT1254 using TGR Forums mobile app

Thanks for that. I did the parchment/ heat gun trick and they skins are cooling in the garage right now. If this doesn't work, I will try to get the warranty route.

[XXX-er]

https://www.genuineguidegear.com/ser...BoCM3AQAvD_BwE

g3 have a one yr warranty so you will likely get it cuz I think G3 are pretty good about warranty

I have had a set replaced by my local dealer for glue coming off in patches so if they replace em you get another free year of use, not much of a margin on that item I was told

but still ... one of these days

[kalisto]

G3 used to have major issues regarding their glue. Even treating them as best as possible... this happened to 3-4 of my pairs of skins, never with BD Gold Label. Since then, I'd just reglue with BD glue as soon as I got G3 skins...

... that said, they have since changed their glue and it (so far) has been significantly better. No issues so far which seems very promising.

Also, iron direct to skin makes life easier when renoving glue (or heat gun). Parchment paper when trying to make them look nice after regluing.

[gregL]

Duno about warranty but what you can try first is ironing the old glue

What XXX-er says works much of the time. Pick off the globs of glue and pine needles before you iron. I get better results with the paper Black Diamond uses on their new skins than with parchment (stop by a backcountry shop and see if they can save a set for you). If the glue is really dirty you can pull the paper off once when still warm, clean it with GooGone, then iron again.

[Quadzilla]

What XXX-er says works much of the time. Pick off the globs of glue and pine needles before you iron. I get better results with the paper Black Diamond uses on their new skins than with parchment (stop by a backcountry shop and see if they can save a set for you). If the glue is really dirty you can pull the paper off once when still warm, clean it with GooGone, then iron again.

I do the same thing especially with the BD transfer paper. One trick I add is to put the finished product with paper still attached in the freezer for a day. Seems to harden the glue up a bit and not as likely to ball up. The skins with the paper can be folded up when put in the freezer.

[XXX-er]

yeah G3 probably has more glue issues but all glue has issues so i depend them fucking up and since G3 don't sell tubes of glue only the transfer sheets which cost 3X more I use gold label for everything

somebody suggested try using an iron without parchment, it works fine but be careful what you do to the glue cuz its easier to sploosh it everywhere IMO the ability to spread drywall is a good transferable skill for paper less glue massaging

Some kinda backing is safer for Anesthetists who should not be allowed to own tools IME, Instead of parchment the paper backing sheets that came on the skins are good, pomoca uses a heavy plastic but you probably cut them to size when you cut the skins W2W which makes them not as good and they only last so long before they rip OR i can just buy a roll of parchment at the grocery store cuz IME/IMO the original backing sheets don't work mo better enough to bother tracking them down

I find the key to using parchment is put the reglued skins outside in freezing temps ( its cold up here eh ) and the paper will come off easy with no glue transfer left on the parchment which is why i have a designated skin glueing board instead of doing it on a work bench

I havent tried the heat gun method yet

another method told to me by an Everest guide, is the clothes dryer method where you just toss the skin bag in the dryer and turn it on, he had never tried it and had been told about it from someone else so yer on yer own with this one!

[kootenayskier]

All glue turns to patchy, gummy shit sooner than later. On high use skins I’ve gone through ironing the glue back into position after each season of use, applying a hot waxing iron directly to the glue like a hot trowel, which both heats out the moisture and redistributes the glue. It’s as painstaking and finicky as it sounds. After 2 seasons of hard use, it seems inevitable that performance drops below par. I’ve tried replacement glue strips, which don’t work at all, and have removed (hot air gun and scrapper, followed by brown paper and iron) and reapplied gold label glue, which is better but not by much, and nowhere near close to the performance of new skins. Unfortunately the only way I know how to maintain peak skin performance, is to buy new skins every year, and flip the old ones while they still have value.