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  1. #2201
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    137
    Quote Originally Posted by madriverfreeride View Post
    Well those middle holes are arguably too close to the other set. A ski with a burly core like that really shouldnít rip out if it was mounted right.

    Im a well known hater of the shift but I wouldnít say it has an especially week mounting pattern. Iím going to blame mounting issue or core rot on that rip out.
    Ya, my good buddy is a shop tech and that's what we talked about (mount holes). But I doubt the core has rotted out. One core shot that was immediately repaired.

    The binding had obviously ripped out of the top sheet as well. My friend pointed out the fracture (?) lines. He's gonna epoxy in some inserts and we're gonna hope for the best

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  2. #2202
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    In a parallel universe
    Posts
    4,489

    The Official Salomon S/Lab SHIFT MNC Thread -AMA

    Maybe not core rot in your case, but more often than not, that is something that happens as a result of improperly sealed mounting holes. In your case however you have a hole overlap issue, not enough supporting material around the new mount and only pound in plugs in the old holes. You might have gotten away with this mount if that previous holes had been plugged with wood (bamboo, or similar) and epoxy. If it were me, I would pull the plastic plugs in the near holes and fill/epoxy them as described above, then, after that is set up, install inserts.

  3. #2203
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Down East
    Posts
    36
    Anyone actually looked at the armada shift. Other then being black I was told that the toe is “thiner”. Not sure what that meant but was woundering if there was anything related to the AFD adjustment made... I have the Atomic version I got last year and had issues with the AFD. Followed the adjustment feedback on this site and that seemed to solve it but it still is in my head when skiing....

  4. #2204
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    西 雅 圖
    Posts
    3,254
    Quote Originally Posted by phatboy64 View Post
    Anyone actually looked at the armada shift. Other then being black I was told that the toe is ďthinerĒ. Not sure what that meant but was woundering if there was anything related to the AFD adjustment made... I have the Atomic version I got last year and had issues with the AFD. Followed the adjustment feedback on this site and that seemed to solve it but it still is in my head when skiing....
    We have all three versions in the store; they are exactly the same.

  5. #2205
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Down East
    Posts
    36
    it didn't make sense that one would be different....going to put another pair on a new set of skis...

  6. #2206
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    1,938
    Been trying to read through this thread, but thereís a lot. Mounting a pair of these soon for my sister Inlaw. Anyone kind enough to point out things I should be aware of?

    Seems like epoxy on the screws is a good idea. Inserts for toe pieces (all 3, the pair, or just the nubbin?) as well?

    Is there a verified paper template for these? I remember reading about the distance for the nubbin being debated.

    Link for setting afd and forward pressure?


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  7. #2207
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    西 雅 圖
    Posts
    3,254
    Quote Originally Posted by Muggydude View Post
    Mounting a pair of these soon for my sister Inlaw. Anyone kind enough to point out things I should be aware of?
    Epoxy is usually a good idea unless you have 200 pairs of skis waiting to be mounted behind your bench, in which case you don't have the time. It's easy to have the toe slide OVER the nubbin when sliding it back, look at the side of the binding to make sure it is in the right place. If you are using an alpine ISO 5355 sole, don't follow the usual rules about AFD clearance (a card or .5mm), go a bit tighter (like no gap). Mounts seem quite secure for skis with titanal in the layup if you tap the holes; for an ultra light ski with no metal I might do inserts.

    Here's the adjustment guide from the 19-20 tech manual:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    This is Salomon's recommendation, which I've had no problem with. Other people have shown the heel with more forward pressure (end of silver metal aligned with arrows rather than the raised nub in line with arrows); maybe one of them can chime in with their rationale.

  8. #2208
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Stumptown
    Posts
    5,863
    Quote Originally Posted by gregL View Post
    We have all three versions in the store; they are exactly the same.
    This. Salomon rep confirmed for me the same. I went for the Armadaís cause I like the all black better than the others.

  9. #2209
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Ogden
    Posts
    515
    Quote Originally Posted by gregL View Post

    Here's the adjustment guide from the 19-20 tech manual:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	shift_adjust.jpg 
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ID:	303986

    This is Salomon's recommendation, which I've had no problem with. Other people have shown the heel with more forward pressure (end of silver metal aligned with arrows rather than the raised nub in line with arrows); maybe one of them can chime in with their rationale.
    Going tighter than rec on forward pressure is not a good idea. I think I read people recommending it a few pages back. Good way to encourage prerelease in a heavy landing or when really flexing your noodle sir Francis bacons or whatever crap the kids are backslapping on these days.

    I like my shifts at 13 with the FP set as shown or a little looser. I ski my sth2s at 13 as well but they feel heavy now.
    now a complete tool

  10. #2210
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    640

    The Official Salomon S/Lab SHIFT MNC Thread -AMA

    Quote Originally Posted by Gnar_Shralp406 View Post
    .
    Nice. Well it was worth a try. Good on you for going with inserts and giving it another go.

  11. #2211
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    1,938
    Thanks for tips everyone. I think Iíll just epoxy all the screws and follow Salomonís advice from there. Low rider weight and good quality skis so Iím not too worried about her pulling out a toe


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  12. #2212
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Posts
    207
    Has anyone tried stretching 100mm brakes onto a 112mm ski? I know they tend to have a lot of extra room... but I wanted to check in. Trying to sort out skis to pair with bindings on hand.

  13. #2213
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    640
    Quote Originally Posted by Tailwind View Post
    Has anyone tried stretching 100mm brakes onto a 112mm ski? I know they tend to have a lot of extra room... but I wanted to check in. Trying to sort out skis to pair with bindings on hand.
    Iíve been leery of messing with the brakes because they release when you pull them outward and without knowing exactly what it looks like inside, Iíve been paranoid about messing up whatever makes that mechanism work.

    Maybe you could trade up to a 110mm on Gear Swap?

  14. #2214
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Posts
    207
    Agree.

    I had some 110mm brakes on 125mm skis and they worked... most of the time. So I ended up trading. They were borderline... so I was wondering if anyone has tried.



    Quote Originally Posted by lucknau View Post
    I’ve been leery of messing with the brakes because they release when you pull them outward and without knowing exactly what it looks like inside, I’ve been paranoid about messing up whatever makes that mechanism work.

    Maybe you could trade up to a 110mm on Gear Swap?

  15. #2215
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    SEA>DEN>Spokanistan
    Posts
    1,225
    Quote Originally Posted by Tailwind View Post
    Has anyone tried stretching 100mm brakes onto a 112mm ski? I know they tend to have a lot of extra room... but I wanted to check in. Trying to sort out skis to pair with bindings on hand.
    They bend easily - have 100mm on a 116mm ski. To vice grips is what I used. One to secure and one to bend.


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  16. #2216
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Golden
    Posts
    251
    You would have to do the slightest bend or shave some plastic off the inside but it should work. A 100mm brake on a 108 ski fits with plenty of room. I've mounted other skis that are 10mm wider than the brakes with no issues.

  17. #2217
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    640

    The Official Salomon S/Lab SHIFT MNC Thread -AMA

    Heh. Cool. Forget what I said then.

    Theyíre all 8mm wider than stated, I thought, so yeah, not much of a bend

  18. #2218
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    857
    120mm Shift brakes bent to fit 148mm Spoons

    Click image for larger version. 

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  19. #2219
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Sonoma & Truckee
    Posts
    11,135
    Touring on 148mm skis... interesting. Sounds kind of uncomfortable.

  20. #2220
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    1,863
    Quote Originally Posted by TahoeJ View Post
    Touring on 148mm skis... interesting. Sounds kind of uncomfortable.
    I tour on Protests, itís not too bad. Only real issue is Iím always making the skin track 2cm wider with every step


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  21. #2221
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    In a parallel universe
    Posts
    4,489
    Quote Originally Posted by TahoeJ View Post
    Touring on 148mm skis... interesting. Sounds kind of uncomfortable.
    If it's a big day on low angle, he's winning.

  22. #2222
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Sonoma & Truckee
    Posts
    11,135
    Sure, Iíve toured on my 122mm Noctas... just trying to picture going that much wider. To each his own.

  23. #2223
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    da hood
    Posts
    929
    Quote Originally Posted by TahoeJ View Post
    Touring on 148mm skis... interesting. Sounds kind of uncomfortable.
    Skin track or sled track?

  24. #2224
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Golden, CO
    Posts
    1,810
    new Shift guy here, mounting first pair.

    I read about the minor toe gap after proper installation. By my heal plates seem to not sit flush, almost like they're ever so slightly convex. I
    f the plastic wasn't so rigid I'd think I could just muscle them flush with the screws, but yea, they are stiff and I doubt it'll flatten out.

    Anyone else see this?

  25. #2225
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    PNW
    Posts
    4,761
    Quote Originally Posted by N1CK. View Post
    new Shift guy here, mounting first pair.

    I read about the minor toe gap after proper installation. By my heal plates seem to not sit flush, almost like they're ever so slightly convex. I
    f the plastic wasn't so rigid I'd think I could just muscle them flush with the screws, but yea, they are stiff and I doubt it'll flatten out.

    Anyone else see this?
    Look closely... I recall seeing a slight taper/relief to accommodate ski flex.
    Or do you see something else?
    PE, Mechanical Engineering
    University of Bridger Bowl Alumnus
    Alpental Creeper

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