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  1. #2176
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
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    Mid-tomahawk
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    153
    Yeah, they're more finicky in terms of AFD adjustment and forward pressure than some other stuff, but if you get that dialed, they're really good. I haven't had any undue issues with the brakes deploying randomly as long as I make sure the cavity where the lever goes is free of snow before transitioning. A minor annoyance at worst.

  2. #2177
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    24
    Am I doing something wrong? Just swapped boots from freedom RSís to Lupo axís. I need to adjust the AFD up a TON.
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  3. #2178
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    西 雅 圖
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    3,273
    Quote Originally Posted by scandy89 View Post
    I need to adjust the AFD up a TON.
    One of the thickest AT soles out there, vs a thin ISO 5355 sole. Aren't you glad it moves that far?

  4. #2179
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    sfbay
    Posts
    2,161
    Holy Shit, I just finished reading the entire thread and I don't even have my shifts yet.

    I am super surprised that there has been no talk about using the same pair of shifts on multiple skis with inserts. I'm always looking for shortcuts for example I used to swap Dukes around on skis and saved time by getting extra sets of the heel tracks so those could stay on the ski. Swaps twice as fast because those screws don't have to come out.

    It seems like if I could get a spare set of the plastic bit on the back two toe screws, and the front screw metal thingy - then at least the toes would swap with just two screws removed. Anyone know if I can get those parts as a replacement?

    This is the image that gets me thinking:

  5. #2180
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1,652
    Quote Originally Posted by jondrums View Post
    Holy Shit, I just finished reading the entire thread and I don't even have my shifts yet.

    I am super surprised that there has been no talk about using the same pair of shifts on multiple skis with inserts. I'm always looking for shortcuts for example I used to swap Dukes around on skis and saved time by getting extra sets of the heel tracks so those could stay on the ski. Swaps twice as fast because those screws don't have to come out.

    It seems like if I could get a spare set of the plastic bit on the back two toe screws, and the front screw metal thingy - then at least the toes would swap with just two screws removed. Anyone know if I can get those parts as a replacement?

    This is the image that gets me thinking:
    Not sure where it is, but someone posted a Skimo link that had Shift parts

  6. #2181
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    SEA>DEN>Spokanistan
    Posts
    1,233

    The Official Salomon S/Lab SHIFT MNC Thread -AMA

    Quote Originally Posted by tuco View Post
    Not sure where it is, but someone posted a Skimo link that had Shift parts
    Just the little washer part. Not the toe plastic bit and rear track.

    And Iím running with inserts on billy goat, Ceast and desist, and gunsmokes. Worked great all year.

    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  7. #2182
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    voting in seattle
    Posts
    4,167
    If you can get extra heel tracks, toe button and the little black piece you could insert Shifts with two screws per ski

    Norseman also pointed out how much stress is put on the forward toe button, likely a good idea to helicoil or insert it as well.

  8. #2183
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    sfbay
    Posts
    2,161
    Quote Originally Posted by XavierD View Post
    If you can get extra heel tracks, toe button and the little black piece you could insert Shifts with two screws per ski

    Norseman also pointed out how much stress is put on the forward toe button, likely a good idea to helicoil or insert it as well.
    Oh, the heel comes off too?!?!? Sweet
    Salomon probably won't sell me those parts since that means I buy one less binding. Anyone holding a broken/trashed pair?

    Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

  9. #2184
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    PNW
    Posts
    4,799
    I used inserts, too... but sold the binding before getting around to putting the pattern in multiple pairs of skis.

    IMO, using an insert to mount the toe button is a good idea, even if it's the only insert in the ski. That fastener takes a big load and the increased thread area could prevent a pullout in a crash or big air.

    Those with inserts and Shifts: I'd suggest periodically removing the toepiece to check the condition of the toe button.

    I put 12 days on my set. There was visible deformation of the aluminum where it contacts the steel backing plate of the toe. I think Salomon should make these of a harder alloy.



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    PE, Mechanical Engineering
    University of Bridger Bowl Alumnus
    Alpental Creeper

  10. #2185
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    51
    I have two sets of Shifts (Salomon and Armada) and 4 pairs of skis with QuiverKiller inserts for them. I use Binding Freedom screws and had their heads grounded to size by a local machinist for additional 10 bucks. No issues whatsoever except that one of my brake sets keeps falling from time to time during skinning. I have 3 brake sets (100, 110 and 120mm) and only the 120's fall occasionally.

    Additionally, there are skis (e.g. Line Sick Day 114) that seem to use two strips of laminate with a gap between them under the topsheet making the middle weaker. Probably using an insert for the toe button with them is the way to go.

  11. #2186
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    861
    Quote Originally Posted by jondrums View Post
    Holy Shit, I just finished reading the entire thread and I don't even have my shifts yet.

    I am super surprised that there has been no talk about using the same pair of shifts on multiple skis with inserts. I'm always looking for shortcuts for example I used to swap Dukes around on skis and saved time by getting extra sets of the heel tracks so those could stay on the ski. Swaps twice as fast because those screws don't have to come out.

    It seems like if I could get a spare set of the plastic bit on the back two toe screws, and the front screw metal thingy - then at least the toes would swap with just two screws removed. Anyone know if I can get those parts as a replacement?

    This is the image that gets me thinking:
    Here's the part numbers you need:

    - L4071100 pair of Shift toe binding front holders with screws (that's Salomon speak for the front toe studs).
    - L40751200 pair of Shift toe binding rear holders with screws (that's the plastic tabs that slide in to the rear of the AFD)
    - Or you can get a pair of complete AFD assemblies (which includes the L40751200 parts) which is part number L40751000. And just to confuse things, Salomon call the AFD a 'pedal'.

    When I first examined the Shift I thought the above parts could be weak links and going to be prone to failure/damage so I ordered a load of them in at the start of last season but I've not had one request and I've sold a couple of hundred of sets of the binding.

    The heel bases are not listed as spare parts.

  12. #2187
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    301
    Anyone here looking to swap their 110mm brakes for my 120? Located in SLC.
    Thanks

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

  13. #2188
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    234
    somewhere here in the topic I read that there were issues with Shifts and Tecnica Cochise. I have 1st version of Zero G Guide Pros with swappable soles, anyone here with these boots? Any issues using touring soles with shifts?
    Also, are there any additional tips for mounting and setting Shifts that are not covered in Lee's article on NS?

  14. #2189
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    140
    Quote Originally Posted by HukuTa_KydecHuk View Post
    somewhere here in the topic I read that there were issues with Shifts and Tecnica Cochise. I have 1st version of Zero G Guide Pros with swappable soles, anyone here with these boots? Any issues using touring soles with shifts?
    Also, are there any additional tips for mounting and setting Shifts that are not covered in Lee's article on NS?
    Definitely mount with inserts. Had my toe piece rip out yesterday and had to post hole a looooong way as a result.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  15. #2190
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Simi Valley, CA
    Posts
    5,342
    Quote Originally Posted by Gnar_Shralp406 View Post
    Definitely mount with inserts. Had my toe piece rip out yesterday and had to post hole a looooong way as a result.
    What ski?

    Most of the operating load is on the two screws under the end of the toe wings, not a bad idea to insert those, especially in lightweight skis.

  16. #2191
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    SEA>DEN>Spokanistan
    Posts
    1,233
    Quote Originally Posted by Gnar_Shralp406 View Post
    Definitely mount with inserts. Had my toe piece rip out yesterday and had to post hole a looooong way as a result.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
    Moarr details what ski did it pull out of? Who mounted? Was it seated correctly on front nubbins? Meaning did the nubbin pull out too? Or just middle 2 screws?

    Pics


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  17. #2192
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    mammoth
    Posts
    136
    Quote Originally Posted by scandy89 View Post
    Am I doing something wrong? Just swapped boots from freedom RS’s to Lupo ax’s. I need to adjust the AFD up a TON.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I think you should put the GripWalk sole blocks on the Lupos...


  18. #2193
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    140
    Quote Originally Posted by 1000-oaks View Post
    What ski?

    Most of the operating load is on the two screws under the end of the toe wings, not a bad idea to insert those, especially in lightweight skis.
    ON3P Wrenegade 112. Not a light ski.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  19. #2194
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    140
    Quote Originally Posted by SkiLyft View Post
    Moarr details what ski did it pull out of? Who mounted? Was it seated correctly on front nubbins? Meaning did the nubbin pull out too? Or just middle 2 screws?

    Pics


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Reputable shop in Bozeman. Pulled out of a ON3P Wrenegade 112. Just the 2 screws pulled out, the button/nubbin is still attached.

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  20. #2195
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    SEA>DEN>Spokanistan
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    1,233
    Quote Originally Posted by Gnar_Shralp406 View Post
    Reputable shop in Bozeman. Pulled out of a ON3P Wrenegade 112. Just the 2 screws pulled out, the button/nubbin is still attached.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
    Hmmm, can we see the bottom of the toe piece? IIRC similar situation happened and the toe was not seated in the nubbin so all the load was directed to the 2 middle screws.


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  21. #2196
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    140
    Quote Originally Posted by SkiLyft View Post
    Hmmm, can we see the bottom of the toe piece? IIRC similar situation happened and the toe was not seated in the nubbin so all the load was directed to the 2 middle screws.


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    .

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  22. #2197
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Vermont
    Posts
    71
    Well those middle holes are arguably too close to the other set. A ski with a burly core like that really shouldnít rip out if it was mounted right.

    Im a well known hater of the shift but I wouldnít say it has an especially week mounting pattern. Iím going to blame mounting issue or core rot on that rip out.

  23. #2198
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    726
    Isn't a full centimeter between screw holes the norm? That's what the shop I worked at years ago stuck to/what I've done on every ski I've mounted at home since. Maybe I'm too risk averse, but no way I'd have mounted those screws in that spot.

    Did you pay for that mount? If so you might have a good argument to get it fixed for free.
    Last edited by kathleenturneroverdrive; 11-25-2019 at 06:06 PM.

  24. #2199
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Colorado Front Range
    Posts
    3,183
    Quote Originally Posted by kathleenturneroverdrive View Post
    Isn't a full centimeter between screw holes the norm? That's what the shop I worked at years ago stuck to/what I've done on every ski I've mounted at home since. Maybe I'm too risk averse, but no way I'd have mounted those screws in that spot.

    Did you pay for that mount? If so you might have a good argument to get it fixed for free.
    Those Wrens have bomber cores, but since they don't have a metal top sheet (and the holes weren't robustly plugged with for example, fiberglass and marine epoxy), I'd never mount that close. It's asking for trouble.

    With a robustly made plug and inserts, I never met a hole that was too close to another one - unless you lined up several of them in a row.

    Have you seen some of @Splat's Swiss Cheese jobs?

    ... Thom
    Last edited by galibier_numero_un; 11-25-2019 at 09:43 PM.
    Galibier Design
    crafting technology in service of music

  25. #2200
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    1,469
    Quote Originally Posted by kathleenturneroverdrive View Post
    Isn't a full centimeter between screw holes the norm?
    Maybe on alpinezone...

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