The Official Salomon S/Lab SHIFT MNC Thread -AMA

[snowsprite]

So 100s should fit on 100 skis *because* of the wiggle room right? If so I may pull the trigger on that entire set up soonish.
Thanks mang.

[HAB]

So 100s should fit on 100 skis *because* of the wiggle room right? If so I may pull the trigger on that entire set up soonish.
Thanks mang.

100s will fit on 100mm skis for sure, they'll probably just stick out a little more than they strictly need to and you might bang them together when skinning once in a while.

You could for sure make 90s fit if you want to keep everything as tight as possible. May or may not require slight bending.

[whyturn]

Looking at shift 10 vs 13. A lot of folks seem to have to turn up a bit on din to avoid pre release. On tecton I’m at 8-9 which is chart for type 3. Thoughts?


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[Spyderjon]

Looking at shift 10 vs 13. A lot of folks seem to have to turn up a bit on din to avoid pre release. On tecton I’m at 8-9 which is chart for type 3. Thoughts?

It's all in the forward pressure and toe height adjustment. Get that dialled in and there shouldn't be a need for a higher din.

[XavierD]

Low elasticity in the heel = crank em up.

[detrusor]

Snow on your boot fly right out!


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[whyturn]

Snow on your boot fly right out!


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So if I understand you right your basically saying I’ll die


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[TahoeJ]

I run my Tectons and Shifts on the same DIN... no issues.

[tuco]

It's all in the forward pressure and toe height adjustment. Get that dialled in and there shouldn't be a need for a higher din.

This is what I'm hoping for.
My regular DIN is 13. So I have my Shifts pegged and have not had an issue........

[HAB]

I too have been just fine skiing Shifts at my normal RV (9-10) once I figured out getting the adjustment dialed.

[Spyderjon]

Salomon Shift MNC parts? Missing a base plate (see picture) and need to replace.

Thanks for any help/guidance you might be able to provide!
Attachment 338017

You're missing some screws for the parts in the pic as well plus the two toe studs'n'screws - do you need those as well?

I can't remember if the heel base is now available as a spare part as they went during the first season of the Shift. It's late evening here in the UK but I can check tomorrow for you.

[Spyderjon]

I need it all - the parts in the photo are all I received with my recent purchase (a good deal, but this is why)........

It's only a good deal if the parts are available!

The Shift rear plates are not listed in the 19/20 Spare Parts List so you're going to have to get an Amer dealer to see if they can get you one as a warranty replacement. If they can make sure you request the screws as well. Amer have every right to ask to see a broken part to substanciate a warranty claim so don't bullshit them just come clean that they've been lost and they're more likely to help you out.

The toe studs c/w screws are available as spares so ask your local Amer (Salomon/Atomic) dealer to order them for you. The parts number/name is L40751100+ 1x2 Holder Front & Screw Toe Shift. The cost is approx US$10. It's the same part number/name for the Salomon, Atomic or Armada versions.

Amer also charge the dealer a small order delivery charge of about $15 so be prepared to pay that unless the dealer can add the items to one of their stock orders.

And your Amer dealer should also have the correct screw for the AFD screw you're missing.

[centralparkskiclub]

Anyone able to point me in the direction where I might be able to find a spare Shift toe piece? Lost one during a core failure a few years ago and haven’t been able to buy a spare from Salomon directly or anywhere online leaving me with a useless and expensive set of bindings.

[aanev]

I saw Shift parts on German ebay recently (incl. rear with a baseplate for 70 euro). If someone can send them overseas it might be worth taking a look.

[Spyderjon]

Anyone able to point me in the direction where I might be able to find a spare Shift toe piece? Lost one during a core failure a few years ago and haven’t been able to buy a spare from Salomon directly or anywhere online leaving me with a useless and expensive set of bindings.

I've got a brand new single black/blue Shift toe in stock. If you PM me your location I can send you a price inc shipping. Also advise if you need the toe stud &/or the AFD.

[Self Jupiter]

110 brakes on 122/99/117 praxis PJs. About a cm gap from the edge. Should I trade for narrower brakes?

[HAB]

I would. The brake stowing on the Shift isn't super robust, I bet you'll find yourself accidentally deploying the brakes by smashing 'em into each other like that.

ETA: I have 110 brakes on a pair of Protests (128mm underfoot) which went on with light bending.

[ts01]

Shift braintrust:

Thoughts on whether a lightweight skier who has the 13 DIN Salomon Shift, set at minimum 6, should pull it to install the newer 10-DIN version, so she could set it at her recommended DIN setting (which would be 5, for a type II skier)?

She's a competent but controlled not agressive skier. Not hucking cliffs or zipperlining moguls; mostly skiing inbounds, sometimes earning turns but a lot of riding lifts too with friends who are on alpine gear.

The idea with the Shifts in the first place was a safe and sturdy tourable binding that would be skied almost entirely inbounds. When the 13-DIN was the only game in town, setting it at 6 seemed to defeat the safety objective. There'd be some cost remounting with 10-DINs (and might have to use inserts to re-use the holes, which I assume are the same pattern). But I could recover costs with sale of the existing pair used only a short season last year.

And I'd rather think this through when it's just a foresight question of money and hassle, not the hindsight question of why is she hurt when the binding didn't release.

[HAB]

Remounting in the same holes shouldn't be an issue. If you're nervous about it, you could even leave the heel track, toe mushroom thingy, and plate for the rear two toe holes mounted and only need to remount 2 holes per ski.

If you're worrying about it, the peace of mind is probably worth a few bucks.

[kid-kapow]

[ATTACH]110 brakes on 122/99/117 praxis PJs. About a cm gap from the edge. Should I trade for narrower brakes?

90mm brakes are 98 internally (all are width+8) if my memory serves me right, so 90 should do the trick with a minimum of bending or trimming of the plastic end pieces closes to the ski. 100s would be fine as well. 110 is a lot wider than you need imho.

Thoughts on whether a lightweight skier who has the 13 DIN Salomon Shift, set at minimum 6, should pull it to install the newer 10-DIN version, so she could set it at her recommended DIN setting (which would be 5, for a type II skier)?

Personally I wouldn't as a tiny bit extra din is not amiss with Shifts, but if it is a concern then go right ahead - especially if you can recoup the difference.

You would only need to unscrew the front pair of screws right in front of the AFDs for each toe as HAB states - leaving the rear rail, aft plastic piece with two screws attached and the front nub in place, and would be able to reuse the same holes again (just remember to use appropriate glue and use the same threads ("unscrew" the screw untill you feel a slight hop where the screw then falls in a bit aka hits the lowest part of the thread on the ski - make sure they do no hang up on the binding - then tighten down. Super duper easy and quick)). The only difference between 10s and 13s are the springs as far as I know, which also explains the difference in weight.

[Spyderjon]

ts01, if it was my missus/daughter I'd swap swap them. The 10's are exactly the same as the 13's in every respect apart from the din range and unless the first mount has been heavily torqued down the replacement screws should snug up fine. You could even leave the original toe studs and heel bases in situ if you didn't want to disturb them and give the buyer of 13's the new studs & bases.

[ts01]

ts01, if it was my missus/daughter I'd swap swap them. The 10's are exactly the same as the 13's in every respect apart from the din range and unless the first mount has been heavily torqued down the replacement screws should snug up fine. You could even leave the original toe studs and heel bases in situ if you didn't want to disturb them and give the buyer of 13's the new studs & bases.

Thanks for this bit of wisdom and the other replies.

So, I'm not that familiar with alpine/AT bindings, other than yanking them off to put on tele bindings. But it sounds like these have a fittings under the heel and toe pieces that could stay mounted on the ski and we just swap the top bits from the 13 to the 10?

Daughter called her local ski shop and they said it couldn't be done. Time to ask again or find a new ski shop or bring them home at Thanksgiving if need be for DIY approach.

Though it sounds like adjusting the forward pressure and toe height could be tricky - any better online guidance than this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eObvYCSUOLk ? Apologies if that's asked and answered but 109 pages on this thread are a bit more than I can scroll.



Or if she does not then we need to talk to

[HAB]

Thanks for this bit of wisdom and the other replies.

So, I'm not that familiar with alpine/AT bindings, other than yanking them off to put on tele bindings. But it sounds like these have a fittings under the heel and toe pieces that could stay mounted on the ski and we just swap the top bits from the 13 to the 10?

Daughter called her local ski shop and they said it couldn't be done. Time to ask again or find a new ski shop or bring them home at Thanksgiving if need be for DIY approach.

Though it sounds like adjusting the forward pressure and toe height could be tricky - any better online guidance than this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eObvYCSUOLk ? Apologies if that's asked and answered but 109 pages on this thread are a bit more than I can scroll.



Or if she does not then we need to talk to

Leelau's setup guide is good.

https://www.newschoolers.com/news/re...n-Issues-Fixes

The heel is mounted on a track. You can leave that on the ski and slide the 10 DIN heel on.

The toe has 5 screws. The forward one goes through a little top hat looking insert, and the back two go through a keyed plate. Once those three are mounted to the ski, you put the toe piece on, slide it into place, and then put the final two screws through the toe into the ski. Those are the only two you'd need to actually remount.

[ts01]

Thank you Hab. With only two to actually remount this is a no brainer.

[scmartin69]

Can't find any info on 2020 v 2021 brake issues...
Did they make any improvements, i.e. should I get 2021 or the cheaper 2020s?

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