The Official Salomon S/Lab SHIFT MNC Thread -AMA

[Name Redacted]

Mine are great but they have a weird click I can feel in the toe when I’m skating around. I have checked the afd height and it all looks good. Anyone else have this going on and figured out how to make it go away?


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Mine did too, but mainly when I skied into the trough of bumps. I just kept tightening/lowering the toe height until it went away. I'll probably rip my leg off someday but at least it stopped clicking.

[Spyderjon]

Going into a shop locally (Switz) tomorrow to pick some up, pricing at 110CHF...

GBP59.00 (inc 20% UK VAT) from me, when I had 'em.

[Fish Rider]

Another shift problem. Toe piece won't lock down in ski mode bc mechanism in binding stuck. Pending tech fix. Any suggestions?

[MnO_____]

Another shift problem. Toe piece won't lock down in ski mode bc mechanism in binding stuck. Pending tech fix. Any suggestions?

In frozen conditions only or also indoors with a dry and warm ski?

[MnO_____]

Mine are great but they have a weird click I can feel in the toe when I’m skating around. I have checked the afd height and it all looks good. Anyone else have this going on and figured out how to make it go away?


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Most likely it´s a AFD settings issue. Take your ski indoors and put your boot in the binding (without you in it...). Then stand on the ski and really pull on the toe of the boot and see if you find any up/down movement. You probably will. You have to go pretty tight with the AFD setting to avoid slop. Crank it up until you get up to the next level/step up on the AFD and find the position where you get the best interaction lock of the stepped plastic parts (as described a few times in this thread). If you still feel some movement, go another step up.

[bw_wp_hedonism]

Most likely it´s a AFD settings issue. Take your ski indoors and put your boot in the binding (without you in it...). Then stand on the ski and really pull on the toe of the boot and see if you find any up/down movement. You probably will. You have to go pretty tight with the AFD setting to avoid slop. Crank it up until you get up to the next level/step up on the AFD and find the position where you get the best interaction lock of the stepped plastic parts (as described a few times in this thread). If you still feel some movement, go another step up.

I have the same issue and tried this. I cranked it up, but my “highest” setting is quite low. Not sure why...


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[westoxified]

assuming your boot is an alpine boot, you might be wedged under the black toe block and not up and flush against the wings. my buddy had this with his alpine boot and couldn't raise the AFD.

[Fish Rider]

In frozen conditions only or also indoors with a dry and warm ski?

Inside after drying all night in warming room. The toe clamp won't budge. Only goes up not down to lock.

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[burrito]

assuming your boot is an alpine boot, you might be wedged under the black toe block and not up and flush against the wings. my buddy had this with his alpine boot and couldn't raise the AFD.

This happened to me during my initial test mount. When the AFD is set too low for your boot (which it normally will be before you start adjusting), you need to consciously raise the toe up to the correct position...or you'll end up like I did at first:

[margotron]

What burrito said. Gotta lever that toe up then adjust. I use a flathead screwdriver


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[gepmeow]

Would there be a hole conflict with Shifts on a pair of skis previously mounted with Salomon Z12 bindings? My wife wants to put Shifts on her Salomon Q-103 Stella skis which are currently mounted with Z12, and she doesn’t want to change the mount point forward or back from the existing mount.

[gramboh]

Just to confirm, 112mm waist ski, will 100mm brake width fit without bending or go for 110? Obviously would like brake arms to not stick out a ton if not needed.

[skibrd]

Just to confirm, 112mm waist ski, will 100mm brake width fit without bending or go for 110? Obviously would like brake arms to not stick out a ton if not needed.

110mm brakes fit on 128mm skis just fine. You should be fine with 110mm on 112mm skis.


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[burrito]

Just to confirm, 112mm waist ski, will 100mm brake width fit without bending or go for 110? Obviously would like brake arms to not stick out a ton if not needed.

Based on what people have stated it seems like you're safe up to +5mm from the stated brake width without bending, +10mm with either bending or shaving away some plastic. FWIW, I opted for the 120mm brakes on my Bent Chetler 120s, and they fit great. Easy clearance but not so big they're hanging over the sidewall or snagging on each other while touring. I don't think 100s on a 112 would fit without some additional work.

[bourbonisgood]

Just to confirm, 112mm waist ski, will 100mm brake width fit without bending or go for 110? Obviously would like brake arms to not stick out a ton if not needed.

100 brakes are snug on my 108 wildcat tours. Might go 110?

[stuntmanbo]

I have the 110 brakes on my 112mm katanas. They could be snugger but they’re not too wide, it’s fine.

[detrusor]

I went 110’s on my 116’s...seem to be about perfect


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[snowtastic]

110 brakes on 102mm skis are a tad wide for my taste.

[TahoeBC]

I chased Salomon again yesterday re more Shift crampons and they're still out of stock of both 100mm/120mm widths and their next stock won't hit their warehouse until April & May respectively

Thanks, I ended up emailing Solomon and they gave me a list of retailers that might have some in stock, turns out a shop on north Lake Tahoe had em and I picked them up today. They had 3 more pairs in stock, alpineglow out of Tahoe city, ca

[morphintoskittle]

Second day touring/skiing in shifts. So far, awesome binding! Had brakes pop down but once I found the solution was making sure no snow buildup and to listen for a click, all is good.

[aleks]

Apologies if this question has already been addressed.

After a few days of skiing - ended up with at three mm of upward play in the toe. Could easily raise and drop the toe of the boot in the binding. Adjusted the AFD and found it sits at and angle to the bottom of the toe of the boot. Is this the usual alignment or should it sit flat/parallel to the bottom of the toes.

and

Anyone has issues with pre release in denser snow. Been popping out of both bindings during weighting through a turn.

[reckless toboggan]

Apologies if this question has already been addressed.

After a few days of skiing - ended up with at three mm of upward play in the toe. Could easily raise and drop the toe of the boot in the binding. Adjusted the AFD and found it sits at and angle to the bottom of the toe of the boot. Is this the usual alignment or should it sit flat/parallel to the bottom of the toes.

and

Anyone has issues with pre release in denser snow. Been popping out of both bindings during weighting through a turn.

None of these issues have ever been discussed in this thread, or anywhere else on the internet ever. Certainly not in the posts in this thread previous to, and leading up to, your post,... and especially not in a thread specifically titled, "Tecton vs. Shift and setup issues for the SHIFT."

[train07]

Apologies if this question has already been addressed.

After a few days of skiing - ended up with at three mm of upward play in the toe. Could easily raise and drop the toe of the boot in the binding. Adjusted the AFD and found it sits at and angle to the bottom of the toe of the boot. Is this the usual alignment or should it sit flat/parallel to the bottom of the toes.

and

Anyone has issues with pre release in denser snow. Been popping out of both bindings during weighting through a turn.

do some reading

[DocChronic]

Can't recall if this has been mentioned here but there's an issue with the Hawx boot when trying to set the toe height on the Shift due to the edge of the vibram rubber sole fouling the black AFD housing on the binding thus preventing the smooth AFD panel on the boot sitting directly on the white sliding AFD of the binding.

Here's the area that catches
Attachment 261405

And here's the 10 second solution with a razor blade which sorts the problem

Attachment 261406

Wanted to bring this back to the front. Just figured this out last night and then discovered someone else did here. I'm suggesting people check their other bindings as well for this issue. My foot is on the smaller side (25.5) so i think it's even more of a problem on smaller feet as the "lugs" might be closer to the AFD on bindings. I ended up adjusting 2 pairs of Wardens as well, but i did not check for interference on the wardens before cutting off the lugs. I don't think the problem was as much of an issue on the wardens as the material after the AFD drops down pretty quick and the Shift is more flat after the pad. I'll post this up on the Hawx boot thread as well if it's not already. Thanks for validating what i thought was wrong Spyderjon.

Oh and hard to believe the shop that mounted these (well known salomon dealer shop in a mountain town) didn't mention anything to me. It's impossible to get a gap of 0.5mm as the lugs are always in contact with the lower part of the AFD even at the lowest possible setting. My solution before this was what most everyone would have done while out on the hill. Crank that AFD until no more toe slop. Good thing I had no hard falls. Prob would have never released.

[TahoeBC]

My buddy added a climbing bar to his setup, wanted to check if there was any interference with the crampons I just bought and there is not. He says the only negative is the bar hits your boot in about the center, but hes digging it.