Results 2,101 to 2,125 of 3332
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09-10-2019, 01:58 AM #2101Registered User
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Reinstalling in same threads would caus a more or less weaker bond between old cheap crap epoxy and new stuff. Redrilling is the only sensible way to do it if it's not for solving an emergency issue with no possibility to drill and plug
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09-10-2019, 09:50 PM #2102
Gotcha. Could also Helicoil the hole for the 5/16" insert, although that starts becoming a really big hole. QK Rescue Inserts would be another option: https://quiverkiller.com/products/qk...inserts-4-pack
If there were still good 5/16" threads in the ski, you wouldn't catch me plugging/redrilling/retapping the insert hole. The threads in the ski provide a lot more attachment than the epoxy, which mostly just seals out water. Plugging/redrilling/retapping perfectly good threads simply replaces good threads with questionable ones, even if "better" epoxy is used on round two.
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09-10-2019, 11:46 PM #2103Galibier Designcrafting technology in service of music
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09-11-2019, 01:06 AM #2104Registered User
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09-11-2019, 08:15 AM #2105
There's a model ship supply store that has hardwood dowels in metric diameters. Unfortunately you'll have to look through all items that contain the word "dowel":
https://www.agesofsail.com/ecommerce...r=name&q=Dowel
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09-11-2019, 03:18 PM #2106Galibier Designcrafting technology in service of music
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09-11-2019, 04:11 PM #2107
I use two baths of denatured alcohol in aluminum pie pans to clean the cutting oil from new inserts, and then shaking them in a cheap kitchen collander before leaving to dry overnight. Don't recommend smoking while you do this.
Save your used alcohol in glass jars, and after a couple sessions your bath #2 alcohol can become your bath #1, and burn the bath #1 juice (better than letting it evaporate).
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09-11-2019, 05:16 PM #2108
Regarding dowels... just buy a bung cutter and make your own out of any good hardwood scrap you already have.
https://www.jamestowndistributors.co...uct.do?pid=501
Also, thickening your epoxy with something West System 403 microfibers will add some structure to the epoxy and increase strength.
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09-11-2019, 10:44 PM #2109
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09-12-2019, 02:07 PM #2110
Had considered both however the epoxy was complete garbage and failed on 2 skis even with 2 baths of acetone prior (tried to support the local hardware store and the product was just too old). So HC on 2 sets of skis was simply not an option. But damn I am always learning things on here.
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09-12-2019, 09:56 PM #2111
I use these. They’re oak.
http://svst.com/Shop/Hole-Plugs/Wood...ugs-100Pk.html
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09-13-2019, 01:49 AM #2112Galibier Designcrafting technology in service of music
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09-13-2019, 02:46 PM #2113Registered User
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- Jan 2015
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McMaster Carr has really good theaded inserts.. softwood and hardwood threads... way cheaper than quiverkiller, whom I would wager is just reselling this stuff:
https://www.mcmaster.com/threaded-inserts
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09-13-2019, 03:47 PM #2114
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09-13-2019, 04:29 PM #2115
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09-14-2019, 11:46 AM #2116
Not sure who actually casts the ski inserts, but they're made to a custom spec. You won't find them outside the ski industry. You can find old threads here about the development of the BG inserts if you want more history on that. I think even ski helicoils are specialized to accept ski wood screw threads instead of metal threads. Even the regular ski wood screws are made to order for the equipment manufacturers, and a lot of them are damn near impossible to find if you're a regular bloke. Speaking of which, if anyone has a line on some marker heel plate, 5.5x12mm pan head screws, I'm all ears!
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09-14-2019, 12:16 PM #2117
They're probably made from 5/16" stainless all-thread rod, blind drilled/tapped/cut on a CNC lathe. The outer thread is rolled by the rod manufacturer, but I call BS on the inner threads being rolled. They appear to be cut with a tap or turned, which is the logical way to do it. Could be wrong, but can't imagine a rolling die fitting in a 5mm hole.
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09-14-2019, 12:20 PM #2118
The Official Salomon S/Lab SHIFT MNC Thread -AMA
I'm pretty sure at least the BF inserts are cold cast and then tapped. I remember reading that they leave the flecks of flashing on the outer threads to grab the ski core better. Could be a cast allthread, though. I don't know. There's an image of the surface roughness somewhere.
Edit: yeah, rolled maybe. Inner threads tapped
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09-14-2019, 12:27 PM #2119
^ Really doubt they're cast when all-threaded rolled rod is readily available, extremely strong, relatively inexpensive, and can be feed through a CNC screw machine in 40' lengths. Casting them would increase the fuckery 10X, and there would be a parting line on the inserts unless they were investment cast, which is generally only done for high-quality golf club heads or other $$$ precision items.
Whoever said that was probably trying to "explain" burrs or marks resulting from a dull cutting tool, machine vibration, etc. Turn sloppy machine work (that doesn't hurt anything, so who cares) into an "intentional feature".
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09-14-2019, 12:44 PM #2120
The Official Salomon S/Lab SHIFT MNC Thread -AMA
Yeah, no what really happened is I read something a long time ago and can't fucking remember what I read now. I'll post it if I find it, although your response above could likely be inserted above or below once I do. My point was more about how McMaster/Carr inserts != (BF//QC) inserts.
Edit:
Stainless steel inserts chemically passivated for epoxy retention
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...76#post3727076
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09-14-2019, 01:29 PM #2121
Found it! You're right, the threads are rolled. I'm a metal caster and I don't know shit about rolled threads, so I just assume everything is cast and then machined.
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...BindingFreedom
LOL. It was you who posted the surface detail photo. I'm sure I read a statement somewhere about the surface roughness being grippier for epoxy bonding, but that would've been made irrelevant by the later chemical passivation.
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09-14-2019, 01:44 PM #2122
Hmm, not familiar with passivating stainless, lol. Aluminum sure, but stainless...calling BS.
Not to bore folks to death, but stainless steel can actually rust if you paint it or coat it with something. Exposure to oxygen is what allows the chromium content to oxidize on the surface, creating a barrier to stop the iron below from oxidizing/rusting.
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09-14-2019, 03:42 PM #2123Galibier Designcrafting technology in service of music
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09-14-2019, 03:49 PM #2124
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09-21-2019, 03:26 PM #2125Registered User
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- Jul 2011
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As long as the coating is intact, "normal corrosion" would be hindered. But if the coating is damaged, the corrosion rate would be higher than for a non-coated surface. As the surface area for the uncoated piece would be greater, giving a reduced corrosion rate. See equation below.
IIRC from the school days, the coated stainless steel could also be more susceptible to other more "unknown" forms of corrosion, which means when coating for corrosion protection of stainless steels, the coating systems need to be chosen carefully. (haven't been working with this since I turned in my master thesis 7 years ago..)
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