The Official Salomon S/Lab SHIFT MNC Thread -AMA

[burrito]

For any shop techs or riders that have had a shop mount - Where does the heel end up on the track when you drill with the Salomon jig? I ordered the wrong size drill bit (FYI the new Bent Chetlers spec a 4.1mm x 9mm bit), and in the interest of time I was thinking of just taking them to a shop rather than waiting until next week for a new bit.

[Jtlange]

For any shop techs or riders that have had a shop mount - Where does the heel end up on the track when you drill with the Salomon jig? I ordered the wrong size drill bit (FYI the new Bent Chetlers spec a 4.1mm x 9mm bit), and in the interest of time I was thinking of just taking them to a shop rather than waiting until next week for a new bit.

It ends up on the first quarter inch mark on the track from what I remember.

[burrito]

It ends up on the first quarter inch mark on the track from what I remember.

Thanks. Is it a pain in the ass if I ask the tech to put the toe in the jig's normal spot but drill the heel 5mm forward of normal? I was planning on doing that for my mount. My boots have a relatively long BSL for their size, and I don't want to run out of track if I ever switch to a brand with a shorter BSL.

[steveski]

Thanks. Is it a pain in the ass if I ask the tech to put the toe in the jig's normal spot but drill the heel 5mm forward of normal? I was planning on doing that for my mount. My boots have a relatively long BSL for their size, and I don't want to run out of track if I ever switch to a brand with a shorter BSL.

Just depends on how much you trust your shop tech. If you know them and they are reliable it is a reasonable request.

[Pat]

Thanks, TahoeJ. Which sole blocks do you use?

[TahoeJ]

These are the 2017 with the hybrid toes/heels so just the standard. Got tired of swapping on the previous model.

[galibier_numero_un]

For any shop techs or riders that have had a shop mount - Where does the heel end up on the track when you drill with the Salomon jig? I ordered the wrong size drill bit (FYI the new Bent Chetlers spec a 4.1mm x 9mm bit), and in the interest of time I was thinking of just taking them to a shop rather than waiting until next week for a new bit.

If you're comfortable with not having an "official" ski bit:

3.6mm bit = 9/64"
4.1 mm = #20 bit

https://www.engineersedge.com/drill_sizes.htm

Lowes, Home Depot, etc.

... Thom

[burrito]

If you're comfortable with not having an "official" ski bit:

3.6mm bit = 9/64"
4.1 mm = #20 bit

https://www.engineersedge.com/drill_sizes.htm

Lowes, Home Depot, etc.

... Thom

Thanks Thom. I'm a self-mount virgin, so if I do it myself in the interest of avoiding as many potential screw-ups as possible I'll probably just order a new one. Live and learn.

[galibier_numero_un]

Thanks Thom. I'm a self-mount virgin, so if I do it myself in the interest of avoiding as many potential screw-ups as possible I'll probably just order a new one. Live and learn.

Yeah, slow and steady. Better to underestimate than overestimate your skills.

A 2x4 for practice is your friend. Of course it won't teach you how to control drilling depth. It's good for validating templates, and getting cute with moving heels fore/aft of the recommended point (what you're interested in).

What it won't teach you is drilling and tapping through the actual materials.

When you're ready, it might not be a bad idea to find junk skis that a shop is tossing in the garbage.

... Thom

[reckless toboggan]

Thanks Thom. I'm a self-mount virgin, so if I do it myself in the interest of avoiding as many potential screw-ups as possible I'll probably just order a new one. Live and learn.

It's mounting skis, not rocket dentistry.

If people can do this and recover, you'll be fine.

Mounted my own fucking skinny skis late last night. Turned out flawlessly!

Attachment 234663

[Jtlange]

FYI, I mounted a pair of Shifts for La Sportiva Synchros last night and they release tested on the high side of the ranges but they were good. I was pleasantly surprised.

[Tailwind]

Jumping back at bit here. I may be crazy here but what appears to be the most recent paper template did not work for me. During my test mount the rear most screws on the toe piece (the pair that are separated by 30mm were 71mm behind the screws that were 40mm apart. The the front hole and the 40mm hole set worked well together. The 30mm set was 71mm back but no where near the holes for the bindings.

I measured the bottom of the bindings and got 83mm between the 30mm set and the 40 mm set. I altered the template and mounted without issue and the boot center still worked out fine.

I would definitely do a test mount prior to drilling. If the 71mm distance doesn't work for you check at 83mm.

Just checked that recent template vs my inserts that are drilled for (and fit) the shift!! Make sure those bottom two screws on the toe are 30mm apart the previous template was 28mm and by some miracle when I drilled my shifts I widened them and came off unscathed. Whew.

Attachment 255198
Attachment 255199


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[Angle Parking]

Are your brakes catching on each other? Pushing down on the brakes (in tour mode) will pop them out. Pretty easy for brakes to catch on each other in the skin track especially on steeper side hills with how wide the brakes are.

So I think XavierD and others were correct in diagnosing my problems. Paid close attention and I can say with a fairly high degree of certainly that my flipping out of walk mode situation is being cause by ...well me, more specifically me catching the break with my opposite foot. Between this 'feature' and the single, 10 degree heel riser, I think the Shifts will help me improve my skinning technique

[blackalps]

So I think XavierD and others were correct in diagnosing my problems. Paid close attention and I can say with a fairly high degree of certainly that my flipping out of walk mode situation is being cause by ...well me, more specifically me catching the break with my opposite foot. Between this 'feature' and the single, 10 degree heel riser, I think the Shifts will help me improve my skinning technique

yeah that single riser doesn't really leave you any option but to get better at your form and terrain choice.

Have about 6 days on mine at this point. summary so far is: they ski fucking awesome and tour better than Kingpins or frame but just ok. Brake does pop out of hike mode randomly.

[burrito]

Jumping back at bit here. I may be crazy here but what appears to be the most recent paper template did not work for me...

I don’t think you’re installing correctly. The 30mm screws should not be visible once you’re finished. The 83mm you mention is the approximate distance between the 30mm and the 40mm screws before the entire toe is slid backward to lock onto the front screw/post. After the toe is slid backward the 30mm screws will be hidden under the AFD, the drilled holes for the 40mm screws will become visible, and those holes will be 71mm from the now hidden 30mm screws.

I am test mounting mine tomorrow to double-check, but those measurements align when measuring the binding itself.

[Tailwind]

I realized I made a mistake. Didn't realize the screws under the AFD could slide backward. 71mm appears to be correct.

Jumping back at bit here. I may be crazy here but what appears to be the most recent paper template did not work for me. During my test mount the rear most screws on the toe piece (the pair that are separated by 30mm were 71mm behind the screws that were 40mm apart. The the front hole and the 40mm hole set worked well together. The 30mm set was 71mm back but no where near the holes for the bindings.

I measured the bottom of the bindings and got 83mm between the 30mm set and the 40 mm set. I altered the template and mounted without issue and the boot center still worked out fine.

I would definitely do a test mount prior to drilling. If the 71mm distance doesn't work for you check at 83mm.

[margotron]

Yup. I’ve mounted probably 60 pairs of them, they all have this issue. It’s like there’s a catch point and the AFD will fall if you adjust the screw past a certain point, then you have to turn it a bunch to get it back up to where it was.

Wtf 60? Where do you work

[margotron]

I realized I made a mistake. Didn't realize the screws under the AFD could slide backward. 71mm appears to be correct.

Yeah kinda the point of the design �� we all goof

[Pacman922]

yeah that single riser doesn't really leave you any option but to get better at your form and terrain choice.

Have about 6 days on mine at this point. summary so far is: they ski fucking awesome and tour better than Kingpins or frame but just ok. Brake does pop out of hike mode randomly.

Did my first tour on them today and didnt experience brakes popping out of hike mode, 100mm brake / 104mm ski. Actually tried to see if i could make it happen and could not, my brake seems pretty well tucked. Not saying your doing anything wrong, just sharing my experience

[burrito]

Did my test mount today. Template is spot on. They only thing I’m unsure on is the AFD height. Dalbello boots/GripWalk sole. I seem to be at the bottom of the AFD’s range (screw won’t turn anymore), but I can only slide the folded paper partially under the toe. Is this correct, or should it slide freely under the whole toe?

Picture of the paper at its stopping point:

[1000-oaks]

^ Should be using the gauge across the white teflon AFD.

[burrito]

^ Should be using the gauge across the white teflon AFD.

So the paper should slide freely over the entire Teflon part? I can seem to get the AFD low enough for that. Is anyone else having this problem?

[detrusor]

You need to aggressively pull up on the toe of the boot. There is a huge amount of space between the wing and boot lug in the photo


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[Norseman]

Should be so that you can just pull the paper out without it tearing. Shouldn't be able to slide it in.

[burrito]

You need to aggressively pull up on the toe of the boot. There is a huge amount of space between the wing and boot lug in the photo


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That was it. Had the boot in at a screwy ramp angle. Thanks for the help.