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  1. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    1,042
    Quote Originally Posted by ADKmike View Post
    Don't think I'm applying too much lube, but maybe I'll try less and see what happens. I don't usually wipe excess off, that's prob a contributing factor, although applying just to wipe off seems counter productive.
    There's your problem. Only the pin interface needs to be lubed, the rest of the chain could be dry and function perfectly fine. The excess sitting on your chain is what is getting things nasty. Take care to remove the excess and you'll be a lot happier.

  2. #27
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    Nov 2004
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    YetiMan
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    https://www.sureshotsprayer.com/

    will spray any liquid w/o aerosol.


    I have a one burner electric stove in the garage and a coffee can of old wax and paraffin that I heat up and liquify. Clean the chain and hot wax. Last a long time and doesn't pick shit up.

    I also have a bike I commute/errand with all year in the northland and went to a "I'll clean it when there's a problem" mode 2 years ago, I have not added any lube or cleaned it. It's just black and greasy and everything is lasting a long time and working well covered in gunk. Now it's a science experiment...I bet it's going to last a really long time. Then I get a chain and a cassette. No big deal...and I haven't spent hours and hours cleaning the bike to get a little extra life out of the chain and cassette. Fuck it.

  3. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
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    Properly lubed when necessary all the bike should need is a wipe down and maybe knock some gunk off the pulleys.

  4. #29
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    cow hampshire
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    1,737
    Quote Originally Posted by MrMan View Post

    So by lubing less you'll work way less hard and your drivetrain will stay clean.
    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    Properly lubed when necessary all the bike should need is a wipe down and maybe knock some gunk off the pulleys.
    Clearly you two ride like pussies.

  5. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
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    13,916
    Quote Originally Posted by ill-advised strategy View Post
    [. I have a one burner electric stove in the garage and a coffee can of old wax and paraffin that I heat up and liquify. Clean the chain and hot wax. Last a long time and doesn't pick shit up. ..
    that ^^sounds like a lot of work have you tried the stuff that goes on liquid ( eg: boesheild or squirt ) and solidifys
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  6. #31
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    987
    Quote Originally Posted by Skistack View Post
    Rock & Roll Gold lube after every couple of rides. Lube chain, wipe off, let dry. Keeps things pretty clean.
    This. Wet lubes suck and attract dirt. Rock and Roll kicks ass.
    "The world is a very puzzling place. If you're not willing to be puzzled you just become a replica of someone else's mind." Chomsky

    "This system make of us slaves. Without dignity. Without depth. No? With a devil in our pocket. This incredible money in our pocket. This money. This shit. This nothing. This paper who have nothing inside." Jodorowsky

  7. #32
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    Trouserville
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    Some of you guys take this shit way too seriously.
    Besides the comet that killed the dinosaurs nothing has destroyed a species faster than entitled white people.-ajp

  8. #33
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
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    5,465
    Quote Originally Posted by jackstraw View Post
    Clearly you two ride like pussies.
    Hahaha

  9. #34
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    Sonoma & Truckee
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    7,723
    I give mine a quick hose after every ride and lube before the next one. Every several or so rides - depending on how dirty it gets, I'll do a proper chain cleaning and cassette scrub. Keeping it relatively clean makes your parts last much longer IME.

    And as someone else mentioned, after you lube the chain make sure to run it through a cloth in your hand to get the excess off of the outside of it. Every time.

  10. #35
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    Nov 2004
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    YetiMan
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    9,209
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    that ^^sounds like a lot of work
    Turn the burner on.
    run the chain through the cyclone for bit.
    pull the master link.
    Dip the chain
    install.
    done.

    It's like 10 minutes max and it lasts a long, long time.

  11. #36
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Eburg
    Posts
    11,020
    Oh yeah, hot lube is the only way to fully coat the pin/bushing bearing surface, and it's much more effective and longer lasting than dripping or spraying on lube from the outside. Most new chains come hot-lubed from the factory. Toilet ring gasket wax works. There are also hot wax products out there, e.g., https://moltenspeedwax.com/ and https://www.runawaybike.com/products/hot-tub
    Last edited by DIYSteve; 11-06-2017 at 06:42 PM.

  12. #37
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Posts
    551
    Quote Originally Posted by jackstraw View Post
    Clearly you two ride like pussies.
    Better to be a pussy than a HACK. You and your bike are both fucked haha.

  13. #38
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    1,780
    Quote Originally Posted by ill-advised strategy View Post
    Turn the burner on.
    run the chain through the cyclone for bit.
    pull the master link.
    Dip the chain
    install.
    done.

    It's like 10 minutes max and it lasts a long, long time.
    I did that to a Sachs chain on a road bike in 1993. I haven't touched it since and it only left semi-regular service a couple years ago. Probably 5-8k miles, hard to be precise since most of those miles in the first couple years--it is a road bike, after all. My money's on your experiment going long.

  14. #39
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Posts
    551
    Quote Originally Posted by TahoeJ View Post

    And as someone else mentioned, after you lube the chain make sure to run it through a cloth in your hand to get the excess off of the outside of it. Every time.
    If you properly use the single small drip method on each pin/plate junction you don't need to wipe off any access lube. No sense in wasting lube and adding the extra step of running the chain thru a rag.

  15. #40
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    1,780
    Quote Originally Posted by MrMan View Post
    If you properly use the single small drip method on each pin/plate junction you don't need to wipe off any access lube. No sense in wasting lube and adding the extra step of running the chain thru a rag.
    That's some funny stuff there. Lube that can't make it into a meaningful location is much more wasted riding around collecting sand and dust than if it winds up on a rag.

  16. #41
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    SoOre
    Posts
    601
    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    Depends on what you mean by "cleaning."

    Lube? After every ride or every other ride. I use a dry lube, which doesn't pick up much dust.

    Wash? With chain on bike, wash + spray degreaser on chain/cassette/etc -- depends on how mucky the bike is. Maybe every week or two.

    Remove chain and soak in degreaser? About once a year. Soak in 50/50 Simple Green/water (or whatever degreaser you like) overnight, hose clean, wipe dry, hang to finish drying.



    Some will argue that the grease that a new chain is packed in is the Very Finest Lube Evar, and that chains should never be soaked in degreaser. I disagree, and think that grease is the Very Finest Attractor of Grit Evar, and should be degreased ASAP -- before installing a new chain. I remove the chain off a new bike and soak it in degreaser before riding for the first time. I don't want any of that sticky shit glommed all over the cassette and chainrings. Degrease + dry lube = chains and gears last a very long time.
    Basically my recipe, however, I do a quick wipe after ever ride. Dry lube for the win for sure in the pnw.


    Fresh and Deep.
    I love my family. Kids are the best.
    http://www.praxisskis.com

  17. #42
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Posts
    551
    Quote Originally Posted by jono View Post
    That's some funny stuff there. Lube that can't make it into a meaningful location is much more wasted riding around collecting sand and dust than if it winds up on a rag.
    I don't think you follow me.

  18. #43
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    west tetons
    Posts
    1,145
    If you spray your bike down with the hose, make sure that you don't force water into your bottom bracket, hubs, headset, etc. Use a dribble of water and a nylon brush.

    I'm a fan of wax lube for 90% of the time. Dust and dirt wipe right off. Someone up thread gave you good advice to check your chain every month or so as well, especially if you're putting a lot of strain on it, or grinding mud or grime into it. That stuff wears out a chain so fast.

  19. #44
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Posts
    551
    Watering can water velocity.

  20. #45
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Raleigh
    Posts
    3,775
    Way too seriously.
    This thread gone all Empty Beer
    If you want me to take a dump in a box and mark it tubeless, I will. I got spare time.

  21. #46
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Cuntecticut
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    1,407
    Quote Originally Posted by kidwoo View Post
    Some of you guys take this shit way too seriously.
    Have you looked into the "low BBH" thread over on mtbr/passion?

    Waaaaaaay too much seriousness and nerditry afoot.

    Otherwise: little bit of dry lube, run it through a rag to get the excess. Once every few rides, more if it's been really wet or looks particularly junked up. Scrape off gunk from the pulleys and cassette generally at the same time.
    Florence Nightingale's Stormtrooper

  22. #47
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Down In A Hole, Up in the Sky
    Posts
    22,898
    I miss reusable master links.
    StokePimpin' ain't easy

  23. #48
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Trouserville
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    14,003
    Quote Originally Posted by rideit View Post
    I miss reusable master links.
    Huh?

    Every chain on all 4 of my bikes has one.


    Scrub: link please. I need a laugh
    Besides the comet that killed the dinosaurs nothing has destroyed a species faster than entitled white people.-ajp

  24. #49
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Eugenio Oregón
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    6,577
    Quote Originally Posted by Anospa View Post
    There's your problem. Only the pin interface needs to be lubed, the rest of the chain could be dry and function perfectly fine. The excess sitting on your chain is what is getting things nasty. Take care to remove the excess and you'll be a lot happier.
    x5.

    Think of chain lube like ski wax. Ever use a lot of ski wax, forget to scrape, and try to ski in winter snow? What happened? It sucked right? Grabs all kinds of snow and goes slow?

    You want the wax that's in your base, not on your base ... just like you want chain lube that's in your chain pins, not on the outside of your chain.

    I use tri-flow to both clean and lube my chain. If it's really dirty, apply lube liberally, run the crank for 1-2 minutes, let it sit for 1 hour (to let gravity do its work and get the lube back to the outside or bottom of the chain) then wipe chain as dry as possible, until the rag is no longer staining black. If the lube is still capable of staining the rag, then it is also capable of picking up dust and dirt.

    The only time I use a degreaser (which is REALLY rare) is if I'm doing a full reset, just like others have mentioned. But this is a nasty process ... like, use an old jar and let the chain sit in some degreaser ... then you also need to completely brush down and degrease your cassette and jockey wheels in conjunction, and then re-lube once everything is completely dry. This is definitely only a once per year kind of thing, and only if your chain isn't stretched out. Use a Park Tool chain stretch checker, because in my opinion it's not worth degreasing a chain if it has even close to 1% stretch - all you are going to do is waste chemicals on an old chain that is going to tear apart your cassette anyways, and still shift like crap after you are done cleaning.

    I now live in PNW so I'm on the hose-down cleaning after mucky rides, I only re-lube my chain when it starts chirping like a hamster wheel. I keep my derailler jockeys as clean as possible because those things can catch a lot of muck and dirt.
    _______________________________________________
    "Strapping myself to a sitski built with 30lb of metal and fibreglass then trying to water ski in it sounds like a stupid idea to me.

    I'll be there."
    ... Andy Campbell

  25. #50
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Trouserville
    Posts
    14,003
    Nevermind scrub.


    The entertainment here is sufficient.
    Besides the comet that killed the dinosaurs nothing has destroyed a species faster than entitled white people.-ajp

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