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  1. #26
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    Mar 2007
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    I converted my 2003 Specialized to an Ebike with the bbs02 and 52V 13.5ah shark battery from lunacycle. I think I spent around $1000 for the conversion. I was originally going to convert my dinosaur Softride roadbike, but considering that I ride at 30-32 mph on flat ground in traffic I can't imagine an ebike without disc brakes. In hindsight I think I would have bought the bbsHD, but Lunacycle said that the voltage is what give the bike the top speed. I had it up to 35mph for a bit, but I think I've killed some of the power in the battery from the high speed.

    The motor is rated for 750 watts, but I usually sit on it full throttle at top speed for a 10 mile flat commute each way. It runs around 800-1200 watts at full battery and around 600-800 watts at the end of my ride. a ten mile ride on my road bike takes about 45 minutes and about 35 minutes on the ebike and 15 to 30 minutes by car depending on highway traffic. I think the stoplights really increase the commute time. My goal for the ebike was to get me out of the car as much as possible for my commute. I have only 250 miles on it so far since building it in February so I give it a C or D rating on buying a product that would change my commute habits.

    I haven't taken it offroad yet, although I think it would be pretty fun. I'm not convinced on the durability. The crank arms like to work loose. The bike is around 50 pounds so I don't think it would feel fun or snappy like it used to ride previously as my main mountain bike.

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  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beaver View Post
    I don't mean to be Debbie Downer but, "Why?" It seems to me that you're adding weight wight you don't need. All that crap in the middle of the wheel will weigh more than a hub & spokes. It's a friction drive, will it slip if it's wet or if some asshole greases your rim? All those turning parts against the rim might get grit & shit in them. If you ever "derail" you're going down hard.

    50 miles (80km) with pedal assist is not much. I've got a 13.5AH 36V (486Wh) battery that will get me more than 40KM (they say 1 km/10Wh is a rule of thumb) with no pedalling, I've never tried but if I set the assist to minimum and rode until the battery was dead I could get a hell of a lot more than 50miles. The most I've done is about 80km (with pedal assist at max) before I charged it before it was dead dead.

    You're also limited in the battery you can put on it just because of the available space

    I think a hub wheel would work way better and be simpler too.
    All good, just throwing it out for discussion. It might fit the bill, or not. Not having to put out for a few grand if you are not necessarily going to use all the time might fit my need. And work and back is only about 25 miles.

  3. #28
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    Feb 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by SkiBall View Post
    All good, just throwing it out for discussion. It might fit the bill, or not. Not having to put out for a few grand if you are not necessarily going to use all the time might fit my need. And work and back is only about 25 miles.
    Check out the Copenhagen Wheel...

    What I like about this product is that you can literally slap it on whatever townie you are already riding (as long as it has rim brakes), no external battery or wiring.
    Alpental Indiginous

  4. #29
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    Oct 2003
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    where bankers breed
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    The first video is one long Giant Road bike ad, but presents a good argument for the Roadie Electric Giant, especially for soon to be old fuckers like me. Gorgeous setting. The thing weighs about 40 pounds.




    250 million dollars

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by ACH View Post
    Check out the Copenhagen Wheel...

    What I like about this product is that you can literally slap it on whatever townie you are already riding (as long as it has rim brakes), no external battery or wiring.
    Will check it out. Sounds like a similar concept.
    Of course there is the young at heart part of me that says I should be able to just ride my bike like I used for many miles. But I don't ride it as much as I used to.

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by ACH View Post
    Check out the Copenhagen Wheel...

    What I like about this product is that you can literally slap it on whatever townie you are already riding (as long as it has rim brakes), no external battery or wiring.
    Andy Botwin used to sell those.

    My commute is about 6km by car or 5 by bike. To work takes 12 & 10 minutes respectively, home takes 12 & 14. With no motor it takes 14 to work & 20 home. End of this month will be 6 month of commuting with the exception of about 6 days when I needed to drive my kid to work. Riding motor assisted can be easier but I still pedal as hard as I would without the assist, I just go faster.
    You are what you eat.
    ---------------------------------------------------
    There's no such thing as bad snow, just shitty skiers.

  7. #32
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    Oct 2003
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    slc
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    Quote Originally Posted by ACH View Post
    Check out the Copenhagen Wheel...

    What I like about this product is that you can literally slap it on whatever townie you are already riding (as long as it has rim brakes), no external battery or wiring.
    Definitely slicker looking than the GeoO, but only 60% of the range, no disc brake compatibility and it costs 50% more.

    The specs say the battery is good for 1,000 charge cycles. Is that common? That's less than 3 years of daily use. What then?

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beaver View Post
    Andy Botwin used to sell those.
    Ha! I knew that looked familiar.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  9. #34
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    Wheel/hub motors are kind of crap. The weight is really biased towards the back, the rim and spoke quality is shitty (on prebuilt ones), most use a freewheel (not cassette), and you have to bolt the axle in with nuts -- and even then, it can slip. If it slips, the wiring leading to your motor will twist itself around and rip out very quickly.

    A battery-in-wheel (Copenhagen design) is even worse. 100% of the added weight is in the wheel. The motor will get warm/hot, and so will the batteries mounted next to it, all of which leads to shorter life.

    Mid-drive motors have the weight down low, let you use a standard rear wheel (higher quality, disc brake if you want, Q/R hub). Shimano/ Bosch/ Yamaha designs are nicely packaged, but requires the frame to be built around it.

    IMHO mid-drive with a centrally-mounted battery is the way to go. For a big battery and/or dirt use, I think mounting a battery in a frame bag (in the main triangle) is a good idea. The 10-12# battery mounted on two tiny water bottle bolts seems a little flimsy -- mine hasn't broken yet, but it's all been on-road use.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  10. #35
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    Oct 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beaver View Post
    . Riding motor assisted can be easier but I still pedal as hard as I would without the assist, I just go faster.
    This is a big deal for me. The more you can keep up with the flow of traffic, the safer.

    I definitely see an ebike in my future, Likely 4 years out still, but I expect a descent commuter by then to be 1,000 with more power than today.

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    Wheel/hub motors are kind of crap. The weight is really biased towards the back, the rim and spoke quality is shitty (on prebuilt ones), most use a freewheel (not cassette), and you have to bolt the axle in with nuts -- and even then, it can slip. If it slips, the wiring leading to your motor will twist itself around and rip out very quickly.

    A battery-in-wheel (Copenhagen design) is even worse. 100% of the added weight is in the wheel. The motor will get warm/hot, and so will the batteries mounted next to it, all of which leads to shorter life.

    Mid-drive motors have the weight down low, let you use a standard rear wheel (higher quality, disc brake if you want, Q/R hub). Shimano/ Bosch/ Yamaha designs are nicely packaged, but requires the frame to be built around it.

    IMHO mid-drive with a centrally-mounted battery is the way to go. For a big battery and/or dirt use, I think mounting a battery in a frame bag (in the main triangle) is a good idea. The 10-12# battery mounted on two tiny water bottle bolts seems a little flimsy -- mine hasn't broken yet, but it's all been on-road use.
    All good points. I'd rather go with your center mounted motor on an actual bike. I've got an old Surly that I could throw it on pretty easy.

  12. #37
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    I've got a 2 speed geared hub motor and my custom mid drive. I agree that mid drive is better, you can use your gears to keep the motor spinning faster for max efficiency and you can use gears for max torque.

    Having said that, hub motors have their place, they're inexpensive, easy to install and mindless to use. If you have a torque arm on them they will not spin, ever. Mine has no torque arm and has never spun, the axle has flat sides and fits very snug in the drop outs (I had to file the paint off them to make it fit), to spin it would have to bend the shit out of the drop outs to the point of breaking them.

    I don't know about the Shitmano or Yamaha mid motors but I know the Bosch is not programmable and limited in power output to be street legal. Bafang, Cyclone & others are programmable at your own risk of cooking the controller but you can make them fly if your battery has enough output capacity. The problem with mid mount is that once you start pushing 2500+ watts of power through your bike drive train you're likely to start busting shit. From what I've read the Bafang BBSHD is the best bang for quality & price & power.
    You are what you eat.
    ---------------------------------------------------
    There's no such thing as bad snow, just shitty skiers.

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    IMHO mid-drive with a centrally-mounted battery is the way to go. For a big battery and/or dirt use, I think mounting a battery in a frame bag (in the main triangle) is a good idea. The 10-12# battery mounted on two tiny water bottle bolts seems a little flimsy -- mine hasn't broken yet, but it's all been on-road use.
    Generally agree with this.
    I wouldn't personally own a rear wheel driven unit for all the reasons you mention.

    The thing that makes the Copenhagen interesting is that it's bolt right on with no other wiring involved.
    Not bad as a straight pavement option for someone looking to get in (relatively) cheap.

    Regarding the battery life: I imagine like anything else with battery tech, when it shits the bed, you peal it apart and replace.
    I've had to do that with some of my lighting systems in the recent past because the mfg stopped making them. In this particular case, I was able to crack open the battery cover, find the oem part number on the actual cell, then search and replace via Amazon.
    Alpental Indiginous

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by cat in january View Post
    This is a big deal for me. The more you can keep up with the flow of traffic, the safer.

    I definitely see an ebike in my future, Likely 4 years out still, but I expect a descent commuter by then to be 1,000 with more power than today.
    The problem with prepackaged ebikes is that if they're sold to be street legal they can only have a max power rating. I think it's 750W in most states, I know it is 500W in B.C. If it's a home build no cop is going to know shit about power output so you can pretty much do what you want if you remove the sticker that has the wattage on it.
    You are what you eat.
    ---------------------------------------------------
    There's no such thing as bad snow, just shitty skiers.

  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beaver View Post
    The problem with prepackaged ebikes is that if they're sold to be street legal they can only have a max power rating. I think it's 750W in most states, I know it is 500W in B.C. If it's a home build no cop is going to know shit about power output so you can pretty much do what you want if you remove the sticker that has the wattage on it.
    This is probably going to become a bigger deal as more ebikes appear.

    The kits will get sold "for offroad use only," to get them around street legal wattage requirements. Luna had a Cyclone kit supposedly good for 3000W, but it required some bracket fabrication to mount it. A 3000W mid-drive kit with a giant battery at 52V would fly -- I bet that'd get you to 50mph without pedaling.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  16. #41
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    Sep 2005
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    Electric bike thread


    Does this count as cool? It delivers skis.
    https://www.douze-cycles.com/en/douze-cycles-f1-v3-2/
    #1 goal this year......stay alive +
    DOWN SKIS

  17. #42
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    Sep 2005
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    Thats a pass...

  18. #43
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    Dec 2004
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    I am a bit of a Luddite and have been for some time.

    I can see the purpose of E-bikes for commuting.

    For getting exercise, I fail to see the point.

    For Mountain Biking, I am against them.

    My opinion, nothing more.

  19. #44
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    Sep 2007
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    yea I think the couple people that I know that have them use for commuting- agree that seems silly if you are aiming for exercise

    I could see myself enjoying one as I ride my bike to work but not as frequently as I'd like- especially on those 6 or 6:30am days- whereas maybe if I were hopping onto a relaxed ride in I might do that and leave the car at home more
    but prob not worth a couple grand to do that.
    although my neighbor has one of the cargo ones and she drops her 2 kids off at daycare, does the groceries and stuff and it does seems pretty damn awesome in that situation
    skid luxury

  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beaver View Post
    The problem with prepackaged ebikes is that if they're sold to be street legal they can only have a max power rating. I think it's 750W in most states, I know it is 500W in B.C. If it's a home build no cop is going to know shit about power output so you can pretty much do what you want if you remove the sticker that has the wattage on it.

    Good to know. Yeah your low rider bike is pretty cool

  21. #46
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    Oct 2011
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    under the van
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    I'm considering for my big dummy. I haul a little dude, groceries, etc. seems like more fun than driving and could cut car use down to less than once per week if weather allows. Looking at the Luna bafang deal.

  22. #47
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
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    952
    I agree that an Ebike as a specific form of exercise is pretty dumb. The motor on my bike spins at 90-100 rpm, and at 30mph, I'm not really adding much of my own wattage. It would be interesting to take the ebike on an all day ride at moderate assistance. I still prefer sitting at full throttle though. It most resembles riding a stationary bike on a low resistance setting.

    Lunacycle is rad and offers the most options and possibilities for good ebike builds. Through all of my research, my opinion is that all of the kickstarter deals, Sondors, and Copenhagen are really weak.

  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gerome View Post
    I still prefer sitting at full throttle though.
    Agreed, I've tried going slower but, why?
    You are what you eat.
    ---------------------------------------------------
    There's no such thing as bad snow, just shitty skiers.

  24. #49
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    Mar 2008
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    northern BC
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    https://biketahoe.org/electric-bicyc...before-you-go/

    I wouldn't be suprised if other states adopt this stance
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  25. #50
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    Dec 2002
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gerome View Post
    It most resembles riding a stationary bike on a low resistance setting.
    Which is great for skiers knees.

    I looked at one 2 yrs ago for commuting and couldn't justify the cost vs potential days used with our weather. As pricing drops I may revisit it...and when college payments end!

    Not a huge fan of it in the mtn bike world, but if you are older or have some other physical need and could use some assist to continue riding dirt then I'm all for it. Using it just to be faster or keep up with others is a no go for me.

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