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  1. #776
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    SW CO
    Posts
    1,086
    Quote Originally Posted by The Reverend Floater View Post
    I have an FJ62 with a 2001 5.3L vortec and 4L60E and 80' series coil suspension, so at least close. It drives great on the highway--80mph all day. Gets around 14mpg but that's gearing dependent. The 5.3L is a quick motor but not super torquey so I'd describe towing as mediocre. The 4L60E is my least favorite transmission to drive but they're pretty reliable.
    Dude 5.3 in that thing would be sweet. You do the swap yourself? Pics please.

  2. #777
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Orangina
    Posts
    9,210
    Quote Originally Posted by Conundrum View Post
    Was the guy's last name Balcos and did he want to buy it because it actually looks like someone uses it?
    He of whom we do not speak!

  3. #778
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Orangina
    Posts
    9,210
    Quote Originally Posted by easyrdr View Post
    Dude 5.3 in that thing would be sweet. You do the swap yourself? Pics please.
    Hell no. I barely have time to do oil changes these days. I'll take some pics out on the road tomorrow. It's my alltime favorite rig, even though it mistreats me so.

  4. #779
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    truckee
    Posts
    2,020
    heckacali said:
    Today 10:00 AM
    Anyone looking for a unicorn?
    This is my buddy's, it has spawned many copies as it is a great engine/trans combo and last cost about $60k to replicate.

    https://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto...322708177.html

  5. #780
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Gaperville, CO
    Posts
    5,851

  6. #781
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    209
    https://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/...335139743.html

    What are folks thoughts on this rig?

    I have a 85 4Runner but it’s not a daily driver.

    Currently, working Paramedic clinicals in OKC for the Air Force before I return to ABQ, NM. So it needs to be immediately road worthy since I have to report back to Kirtland on July 11th. This rig popped up on my radar.

    Figuring $7500-$8000 is fair given the lack of front differential and other concerns. I’ll have to figure out the age of the timing belt. Any other questions to probe the seller about?

  7. #782
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NCW
    Posts
    4,605
    Quote Originally Posted by aepeak View Post
    https://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/...335139743.html

    What are folks thoughts on this rig?
    Hard pass.

  8. #783
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Boulder
    Posts
    1,356

  9. #784
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Orangina
    Posts
    9,210
    Quote Originally Posted by aepeak View Post
    https://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/...335139743.html

    What are folks thoughts on this rig?

    I have a 85 4Runner but it’s not a daily driver.

    Currently, working Paramedic clinicals in OKC for the Air Force before I return to ABQ, NM. So it needs to be immediately road worthy since I have to report back to Kirtland on July 11th. This rig popped up on my radar.

    Figuring $7500-$8000 is fair given the lack of front differential and other concerns. I’ll have to figure out the age of the timing belt. Any other questions to probe the seller about?
    Front diff failures were common in 98/99 if I recall.

    I'd pass. Seems like it wasn't acceptably maintained.
    "All God does is watch us and kill us when we get boring. We must never, ever be boring."

  10. #785
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Warm parts of the St. Vrain
    Posts
    2,796

    80 series land cruiser futures

    Can you really just drive those around without a front diff? What, pull the assembly and the prop shaft lock it into 4x4 instead of AWD (if so equipped) let the axels spin free and just go down the road?

    seems like an immediate project


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    If we're gonna wear uniforms, we should all wear somethin' different!

  11. #786
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Orangina
    Posts
    9,210
    Quote Originally Posted by Jong Lafitte View Post
    Can you really just drive those around without a front diff? What, pull the assembly and the prop shaft lock it into 4x4 instead of AWD (if so equipped) let the axels spin free and just go down the road?

    seems like an immediate project


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Just don't turn.
    "All God does is watch us and kill us when we get boring. We must never, ever be boring."

  12. #787
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Montrose, CO
    Posts
    4,656
    Quote Originally Posted by Jong Lafitte View Post
    Can you really just drive those around without a front diff? What, pull the assembly and the prop shaft lock it into 4x4 instead of AWD (if so equipped) let the axels spin free and just go down the road?

    seems like an immediate project


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Disclaimer: I'm not a cruiser nerd.

    It seems to me there is maybe something else wrong with the drivetrain. Kind of like when you see something for sale on Craigslist that says "just needs the front driveshaft installed." Oh really, why'd you pull it in the first place then?

  13. #788
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Orangina
    Posts
    9,210
    Quote Originally Posted by snowaddict91 View Post
    Disclaimer: I'm not a cruiser nerd.

    It seems to me there is maybe something else wrong with the drivetrain. Kind of like when you see something for sale on Craigslist that says "just needs the front driveshaft installed." Oh really, why'd you pull it in the first place then?
    Front differential failure is indeed common on that model year.

    But yeah, seems suspect for sure.
    "All God does is watch us and kill us when we get boring. We must never, ever be boring."

  14. #789
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    panhandle locdog
    Posts
    7,839
    Selling mine, here's the Gear Swap post: https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...motive-history

    Click image for larger version. 

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  15. #790
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Orangina
    Posts
    9,210
    Quote Originally Posted by The Artist Formerly Known as Leavenworth Skier View Post
    Selling mine, here's the Gear Swap post: https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...motive-history

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I'm shaking like a Crack addict right now.
    "All God does is watch us and kill us when we get boring. We must never, ever be boring."

  16. #791
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    10,148
    Quote Originally Posted by The Artist Formerly Known as Leavenworth Skier View Post
    Selling mine, here's the Gear Swap post: https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...motive-history

    Click image for larger version. 

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    no spare jerry cans, shovels, snorkels, decals or hi lifts hung on it? Jesus man, I'd get laughed out of the whole foods parking lot in that thing.

  17. #792
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    2,287
    Holy Hell. What is wrong with me that I want this. I already have 4 vehicles with 2 being projects and 3 Toyota. Also had a buddy give me first right of refusal on a 78 bronco yesterday that he all he wants is 2k....

    Someone better buy this and come to Montana to wheel it with me.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using TGR Forums mobile app

  18. #793
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    panhandle locdog
    Posts
    7,839
    Quote Originally Posted by The Reverend Floater View Post
    I'm shaking like a Crack addict right now.
    You know I sell the best crack on the block...

  19. #794
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    209
    In regards to that 100 series

    “1. I’m not the original owner I’m technically the third, my dad bought it from a guy in Waco, Tx who did all the work on it. So it was my dad’s car then he gave it to me. And you’re right with road trips. Mostly to New Mexico. Never anywhere with a lot of off road.

    2. The original owner did the lift kit. And I believe he had a professional do it (what my dad said)

    3. I rarely took it off roading. It’s gone on dirt roads in west Texas to get to our ranch but I wasn’t mudding in it. Differential is gone because the original owner had taken it off and we had the piece back in Texas but we’ve moved several times since then and got lost along the way. I have all the paper work of maintenance with vehicle. I got oil change and fluids replaced back in Feb. and haven’t really driven it since besides around town. I want to say my timing belt was replaced within last 3 years while I was in Lubbock.

    4. There isn’t any electrical fuse issues. But I don’t know if you noticed on description but I have check engine light on. I took to post oak dealer here and got diagnosed with throttle body actuator needing replaced. So I took to downtown auto mechanic to get second opinion and he got same reading. After putting 3 different throttle body’s on vehicle and no luck, he wants to say it’s a computer malfunction because car runs great still. I’m more than happy to give you his number so you can talk to mechanic yourself. He’s a really good guy, very honesty and I have extra throttle body I will include.”

    I’ll take a look but I’ll probably pass and take your advice. Wish I made more than E-4 pay... thanks for the input!

  20. #795
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    697
    Quote Originally Posted by aepeak View Post
    In regards to that 100 series

    “1. I’m not the original owner I’m technically the third, my dad bought it from a guy in Waco, Tx who did all the work on it. So it was my dad’s car then he gave it to me. And you’re right with road trips. Mostly to New Mexico. Never anywhere with a lot of off road.

    2. The original owner did the lift kit. And I believe he had a professional do it (what my dad said)

    3. I rarely took it off roading. It’s gone on dirt roads in west Texas to get to our ranch but I wasn’t mudding in it. Differential is gone because the original owner had taken it off and we had the piece back in Texas but we’ve moved several times since then and got lost along the way. I have all the paper work of maintenance with vehicle. I got oil change and fluids replaced back in Feb. and haven’t really driven it since besides around town. I want to say my timing belt was replaced within last 3 years while I was in Lubbock.

    4. There isn’t any electrical fuse issues. But I don’t know if you noticed on description but I have check engine light on. I took to post oak dealer here and got diagnosed with throttle body actuator needing replaced. So I took to downtown auto mechanic to get second opinion and he got same reading. After putting 3 different throttle body’s on vehicle and no luck, he wants to say it’s a computer malfunction because car runs great still. I’m more than happy to give you his number so you can talk to mechanic yourself. He’s a really good guy, very honesty and I have extra throttle body I will include.”

    I’ll take a look but I’ll probably pass and take your advice. Wish I made more than E-4 pay... thanks for the input!
    Everybody makes much more strident claims about used vehicle value when they're on the internet, but, in current condition that thing is worth maybe half his asking price.

    There are two clearly unresolved and undiagnosed issues that could cost you a lot of money and frustration. If those are minor issues, and that dude wants $9k he should fix those issues and sell it for 9k. You, on the other hand, should not bear that risk for such a strong price.

  21. #796
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Posts
    475

    80 series land cruiser futures

    Tragedy strikes my 96 with factory triple lockers. Stock all around. 180K. Have replaced the usual, but top plastic part of the original radiator blew on a 100 degree day, driver (not me, but unfortunately shares my genetic code) kept it running for a bit. My usual mechanic, not a LC specialist but is reliable, sees oil and coolant mixed. New radiator and water pump is $2600 all in (parts are over $1,000, but the the recommended engine options are 1) do the work above and pray it was just a temporary warp or other easily solved problem like a plastic part, success rate booked at <30%, or 2) go all in with that work and a rebuilt engine , because he thinks the incremental cost compared to doing a head job is worth it and there may be a block problem. Cost of that option two is about 10K, due to additional $6500 for a rebuilt installed, he says rebuilt engine cost to him alone is $4500. I’m not sure I want to put 10K into this car, or spend 2600 and have it likely not solve the problem. My current guy’s shop rate is not a bargain, but I only use him for upkeep stuff.

    I’m trying to find a source for a second opinion, I’m in northern Virginia, maybe a smaller shop , or a shade tree mechanic to do it on the cheap (a buddy of mine used a friend he has in North Carolina). Any thoughts on pricing, or recommendations for value shops within towing distance?

  22. #797
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    798
    Quote Originally Posted by ThreeRidges View Post
    Tragedy strikes my 96 with factory triple lockers. Stock all around. 180K. Have replaced the usual, but top plastic part of the original radiator blew on a 100 degree day, driver (not me, but unfortunately shares my genetic code) kept it running for a bit. My usual mechanic, not a LC specialist but is reliable, sees oil and coolant mixed. New radiator and water pump is $2600 all in (parts are over $1,000, but the the recommended engine options are 1) do the work above and pray it was just a temporary warp or other easily solved problem like a plastic part, success rate booked at <30%, or 2) go all in with that work and a rebuilt engine , because he thinks the incremental cost compared to doing a head job is worth it and there may be a block problem. Cost of that option two is about 10K, due to additional $6500 for a rebuilt installed, he says rebuilt engine cost to him alone is $4500. I’m not sure I want to put 10K into this car, or spend 2600 and have it likely not solve the problem. My current guy’s shop rate is not a bargain, but I only use him for upkeep stuff.

    I’m trying to find a source for a second opinion, I’m in northern Virginia, maybe a smaller shop , or a shade tree mechanic to do it on the cheap (a buddy of mine used a friend he has in North Carolina). Any thoughts on pricing, or recommendations for value shops within towing distance?
    180k triple locked cruiser with a new motor? If you’re not willing to spend the money to rebuild the engine and keep it and it’s rust free you should be able to sell it for $$. Or put a new motor in it and sell it for $$$$.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  23. #798
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NCW
    Posts
    4,605
    Quote Originally Posted by pyromaniacman129 View Post
    180k triple locked cruiser with a new motor? If you’re not willing to spend the money to rebuild the engine and keep it and it’s rust free you should be able to sell it for $$. Or put a new motor in it and sell it for $$$$.
    my experience has been that the value of a 3x locked 80 is directly proportional to the funds poured into it. the only way to turn a profit is to DIY, etc. they are impressive machines, and I miss mine frequently, but I would only own one again if I had cash to burn.

  24. #799
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    798
    Quote Originally Posted by jackattack View Post
    my experience has been that the value of a 3x locked 80 is directly proportional to the funds poured into it. the only way to turn a profit is to DIY, etc. they are impressive machines, and I miss mine frequently, but I would only own one again if I had cash to burn.
    Agree to disagree on cost but have to DIY. As long as you do basic maintenance these aren’t that expensive to run. Compare it to a modern 50k 4Runner. I’d rather spend a few hundred on maintenance items than some insane $5-600 car payment.

    My 80



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  25. #800
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Orangina
    Posts
    9,210
    Quote Originally Posted by ThreeRidges View Post
    Tragedy strikes my 96 with factory triple lockers. Stock all around. 180K. Have replaced the usual, but top plastic part of the original radiator blew on a 100 degree day, driver (not me, but unfortunately shares my genetic code) kept it running for a bit. My usual mechanic, not a LC specialist but is reliable, sees oil and coolant mixed. New radiator and water pump is $2600 all in (parts are over $1,000, but the the recommended engine options are 1) do the work above and pray it was just a temporary warp or other easily solved problem like a plastic part, success rate booked at <30%, or 2) go all in with that work and a rebuilt engine , because he thinks the incremental cost compared to doing a head job is worth it and there may be a block problem. Cost of that option two is about 10K, due to additional $6500 for a rebuilt installed, he says rebuilt engine cost to him alone is $4500. I’m not sure I want to put 10K into this car, or spend 2600 and have it likely not solve the problem. My current guy’s shop rate is not a bargain, but I only use him for upkeep stuff.

    I’m trying to find a source for a second opinion, I’m in northern Virginia, maybe a smaller shop , or a shade tree mechanic to do it on the cheap (a buddy of mine used a friend he has in North Carolina). Any thoughts on pricing, or recommendations for value shops within towing distance?
    Or throw a 6.2 in there and sell it for $$$$$$$$$$$$$.

    Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
    "All God does is watch us and kill us when we get boring. We must never, ever be boring."

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