80 series land cruiser futures

[dannynoonan]

Or throw a 6.2 in there and sell it for $$$$$$$$$$$$$.

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Fuck a 6.2, swap a 12v cummins in that thing - 9 out of 10 rednecks can't be wrong

[bodywhomper]

4 or 5 points for the black 80

[MakersTeleMark]

Fuck a 6.2, swap a 12v cummins in that thing - 9 out of 10 rednecks can't be wrong

This.

[Conundrum]

Tragedy strikes my 96 with factory triple lockers. Stock all around. 180K. Have replaced the usual, but top plastic part of the original radiator blew on a 100 degree day, driver (not me, but unfortunately shares my genetic code) kept it running for a bit. My usual mechanic, not a LC specialist but is reliable, sees oil and coolant mixed. New radiator and water pump is $2600 all in (parts are over $1,000, but the the recommended engine options are 1) do the work above and pray it was just a temporary warp or other easily solved problem like a plastic part, success rate booked at <30%, or 2) go all in with that work and a rebuilt engine , because he thinks the incremental cost compared to doing a head job is worth it and there may be a block problem. Cost of that option two is about 10K, due to additional $6500 for a rebuilt installed, he says rebuilt engine cost to him alone is $4500. I’m not sure I want to put 10K into this car, or spend 2600 and have it likely not solve the problem. My current guy’s shop rate is not a bargain, but I only use him for upkeep stuff.

I’m trying to find a source for a second opinion, I’m in northern Virginia, maybe a smaller shop , or a shade tree mechanic to do it on the cheap (a buddy of mine used a friend he has in North Carolina). Any thoughts on pricing, or recommendations for value shops within towing distance?

You're fucked on the head gasket most likely. Bummer. Don't do #1. Take the hit and sell it as a mechanics special, pull the motor, have it machined, and put back in, get a rebuilt swapped, or go tits and put something cool in it.

If you're not doing the work, a Cummins is going to be expensive but cool. A 6.2 will probably cost less and be awesome as well but not diesel bro boner inducing. A stock rebuilt is the easier answer and you know how that drives. I've decided if my motor goes, it's getting something rad instead of the stock 4.5l and it's going to cost me some cash. A stocker won't require mods and will be the most dependable in theory.

I've always thought if I'm getting 12 mpg that should come with 400+ hp which would be sick in these 80s.

[pyromaniacman129]

You're fucked on the head gasket most likely. Bummer. Don't do #1. Take the hit and sell it as a mechanics special, pull the motor, have it machined, and put back in, get a rebuilt swapped, or go tits and put something cool in it.

If you're not doing the work, a Cummins is going to be expensive but cool. A 6.2 will probably cost less and be awesome as well but not diesel bro boner inducing. A stock rebuilt is the easier answer and you know how that drives. I've decided if my motor goes, it's getting something rad instead of the stock 4.5l and it's going to cost me some cash. A stocker won't require mods and will be the most dependable in theory.

I've always thought if I'm getting 12 mpg that should come with 400+ hp which would be sick in these 80s.

I’d agree unfortunately with the head gasket and everything you said.
I rebuilt my stock motor and turbod it and I could have done a 12 valve, LS or Toyota diesel + manual h151 for the same overall cost. Hindsight right?

@threeridges
If you’re not big into wrenching read up on ih8muds 80 series forums. Lots of good into and dozens of threads of people who found themselves in the same situation. IF it’s just the HG and no bottom end work is needed it really isn’t that bad to do. Pull the head in a day, drop it at a machine shop for a rebuild, clean up the block and prep for reinstallation and follow the instructions. There are so many DIY write ups you can follow step by step. You can get free PDF FSMs on ih8mud (factory service manuals) that in conjunction with DIY walk throughs could get anyone who’s ever worked on a bike through it. Great learning experience too.
Unfortunately until you open the motor it’s hard to know how deep the wormhole will be.

Edit : rereading your original post - find a new mechanic. Your options are not just a new radiator or whole engine. They make test kits to pressurize your cooling system and check it it’s a HG. Neither of those should be step 1. These blocks are pretty damn strong. As long as the mating surface at the head gasket isn’t super pitted you should be able to rebuild the head + new gasket + cooling components and be done for much less than he quoted.
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[El Chupacabra]

I wouldn't swap a truck diesel (like a 5.9 Cummins) into a Land Cruiser, or into much of anything really. It'll weigh 500# more than a LSx.

[Conundrum]

Good points. I think paying someone for an HG job is probably $3-4kish but I haven't looked in awhile but that is probably the cheapest real option. I think the HG kits are around $1k if doing yourself. At 180k, I'd probably still pull the motor and dial it if you're looking at keeping it for awhile. EGR, intake manifold, all the hoses, etc are getting long in the tooth and will start popping codes and frustrations over time if there hasn't been maintenance there. HG is still a good option though.

I have maintenance records on mine from mile 0 (I'm 3rd owner). First owner had the HG done at a dealer at about 60k. I've got 220k on it now with no other major issues outside of simple maintenance so that tractor motor will go a long time with proper care and feeding so maybe 180k would be alright with just a HG replacement. I still lust for an additional 2-250 HP though so maybe I'm hoping something goes south with mine. Plus, my OME suspension would get some updating too while the motor was out. Wondering if I have to put another 50k on it before things go bad. Another 100k...who knows?

And the GOTOS dorkel...I wouldn't add one if it didn't have it when I bought it.

[Conundrum]

I wouldn't swap a truck diesel (like a 5.9 Cummins) into a Land Cruiser, or into much of anything really. It'll weigh 500# more than a LSx.

But you get to put in a really rad suspension to accommodate the extra weight.

[El Chupacabra]

But you get to put in a really rad suspension to accommodate the extra weight.

And rad ball joints etc etc etc...

After going too far with modifications on a Jeep XJ, I now stick with staying close to stock - slightly larger tires, or small suspension changes, but stay reasonably close to what the engineers designed for. Otherwise the domino effect of modifications takes over. Big tires need a lift to clear them and then need bigger axles and bigger brakes and driveline improvements and bigger tire carrier to hold the weight of the big spare and bumpers and winch and rock sliders and now the engine isn't powerful enough to move all that weight so regear the axles and while you're in there lockers and maybe lower transfer case gears and and and...

[Conundrum]

Yeah yeah. We're on the same page sort of. It's a more adult page and certainly less fun. But cheaper. And safer. And more reliable. If my daily, I'd leave as close to stock as possible.

A bonus of the 80s is they are on basically 1 ton full float axles and if you're lucky, factory e-lockers. 4.10 gears stock too which will push 35s but it does hunt for gears on grades. 80s are a few steps ahead of Jeeps if you want to get weird with mods. Still plenty to consider though. I did go 4.88s which helped a lot.

[bagtagley]

I still lust for an additional 2-250 HP

BOOST! Or, an LS swap.

[Pow4Brains]

Find a totaled Tundra with the 5.7 and 6 speed.


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[El Chupacabra]

BOOST! Or, an LS swap.

It's a straight six in a 90s Toyota, so isn't that really just begging for a 2JZ?

It will decimate all. Even if we have to overnight parts from Japan.

[pyromaniacman129]

It's a straight six in a 90s Toyota, so isn't that really just begging for a 2JZ?

It will decimate all. Even if we have to overnight parts from Japan.

Careful what you wish for Dom
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/supracruza.1144583/


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[pyromaniacman129]

Find a totaled Tundra with the 5.7 and 6 speed.


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Also very not easily done. 2uz makes not much more power than the 1fz and is a royal pain to do the swap.
An LS/6l80e is an easier swap believe it or not


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[basinbeater]

I think the problem with doing the head gasket now, is that it has failed, and the aluminum head warps relative to the iron block. Hence the low success rate of doing it post failure. Doing it before it goes then it is quality preventative maintenance. Fwiw, the head gaskets used on these were early post asbestos, and they didn't quite have them figured out which is why the head gasket is a failure point on these. At least that's what I think I remember. I moved to the 100 series team, but my heart is with the 80.

sent from Utah.

[pyromaniacman129]

I think the problem with doing the head gasket now, is that it has failed, and the aluminum head warps relative to the iron block. Hence the low success rate of doing it post failure. Doing it before it goes then it is quality preventative maintenance. Fwiw, the head gaskets used on these were early post asbestos, and they didn't quite have them figured out which is why the head gasket is a failure point on these. At least that's what I think I remember. I moved to the 100 series team, but my heart is with the 80.

sent from Utah.

Sorry I’m calling BS. yes the head can warp but many aluminum heads warp if they are not removed properly. There is a reason there is a sequence in the FSM. this is not just a cruiser thing. Where is this “low success rate?”
Any machine shop worth its rent would be checking/decking the head anyway when getting rebuilt.
The new head gasket was redesigned and alleviated the cyl 6 common weak point.
The best thing you can do IMO is redo the HG and disable the EGR. There are hundreds of 80s with new head gaskets post 200k on an unopened bottom end.
Don’t scare the dude into thinking a head refresh and HG can’t work just fine.
That’s a huge IF though, you never know what your cylinder walls will look like when you pull the head.


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[Conundrum]

Back when Radio Shack was a thing, they had the perfect resistor to plug into the EGR harness showing it was still operating so if you have emissions testing, you'd pass. Not that I've done it or know anything about it.

[basinbeater]

For low success rate hg replacement, I am referring to failed hg due to overheating, which is what it sounds like here. The oil mixed with coolant and then driven is a real worry as you point out. Cylinder walls, cam and main bearings.
Agree that a new radiator and water pump ain't gonna cut it.
I'm aware of torquing procedures on heads. The 80 1fz suffers from the block and head being made of different materials, and with the early post asbestos hg material, head gasket became a required preventative maintenance item. The earlier 3fe was more durable with an iron block and head.
You nail it at the end. A huge IF. don't scare him... He should be scared.

sent from Utah.

[El Chupacabra]

Careful what you wish for Dom
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/supracruza.1144583/


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[basinbeater]

2jz swap?



sent from Utah.

[ThreeRidges]

So, an offer I received on it as is, given the triple lockers, as well as my long personal history with this 80, has led me to further explore saving it. I had it towed to a well-recommended rural located LC guy about 40 miles from me, great reviews on IH8mud, who specializes in cruisers, and see what he can do. He has a lower overhead and better access to parts than my regular down the street guy, and was very kind with information and such over the phone regarding the possible scenarios. Downside is he’s booked 6 weeks out, so some vehicle juggling necessary for the near term. Upside is he’s done these drills before and has relationships with machine shops, etc, near him.


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[basinbeater]

Despite my warnings about the job, I fully advocate saving the vehicle. They are the best.

sent from Utah.

[pyromaniacman129]

So, an offer I received on it as is, given the triple lockers, as well as my long personal history with this 80, has led me to further explore saving it. I had it towed to a well-recommended rural located LC guy about 40 miles from me, great reviews on IH8mud, who specializes in cruisers, and see what he can do. He has a lower overhead and better access to parts than my regular down the street guy, and was very kind with information and such over the phone regarding the possible scenarios. Downside is he’s booked 6 weeks out, so some vehicle juggling necessary for the near term. Upside is he’s done these drills before and has relationships with machine shops, etc, near him.


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Best thing you could do is take it to someone who knows what they’re looking at. Not a difficult motor to work on but ain’t the same as a Corolla.
Glad you’re holding on.


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[FJ62]

Was down in LA last month and convinced Jonathan Ward (ICON / TLC4x4) to give me the nickel tour of his shop and appear on the podcast I just started. Episode is here if anyone wants to check it out. The attention to detail - beyond the usual drivetrain / suspension stuff we're all OCD about - is off the charts. The photos just don't do them justice. Quite an operation, too.. 45 or so employees (he's always hiring more, too) and a huge facility. The Broncos and random old cars he's working on were just as impressive.