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  1. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Your Mom's House
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    6,213
    Any opinions on the Kuat Transfer?
    http://kuatracks.com/products/hitch/transfer/

    Only considering Thule, Yakima, or Kuat as I can prodeal those brands (eliminating 1Up). This will be going on my GF's Forester and will be used 99% of the time on paved roads. If we're going up a FS road, we'll take my truck with a North Shore rack. Only needs to hold two bikes and has to be a platform mount so that she can easily load her bike.

    That Kuat is the cheapest option from those brands by far and doesn't look like a total POS...

  2. #27
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    west tetons
    Posts
    1,317
    The Kuat looks nice, has good action. I don't own one but my buddy does. Do you have the hitch on the Forester already? If not, be sure to get the 2", as the smaller one is way more wambly.

  3. #28
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Your Mom's House
    Posts
    6,213
    Quote Originally Posted by homemadesalsa View Post
    The Kuat looks nice, has good action. I don't own one but my buddy does. Do you have the hitch on the Forester already? If not, be sure to get the 2", as the smaller one is way more wambly.
    Thanks. I'll be installing a hitch and was planning to go with the 2". That way both the new rack and the NS can go on either vehicle if needed.

  4. #29
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    2,445
    Alright. Here's my update. I found a great deal on a Yakima holdup 2 + 2 (4 bikes total). Price came in at about $100 less than the 2 bike version of the 1up. Mostly I really like it. Here are a few observations:

    1. The integrated lock is too short to go through the frame on my L Tallboy. Even if it could it only locks the frame - not the front tire or rear tire. If I want to make sure the expensive parts aren't stolen, I need to run an additional cable.
    2. The two bike main rack is held together with M8 Allen machine screws. Even if I could lock my bike with the included cable lock, somebody could pull the whole tray off with a number 5 Allen wrench. You can get
    3. The +2 attachment is held onto the main rack with a threaded hitch bolt like the main rack uses for the hitch receiver. Yakima decided that it wasn't cost effective to include a lock for this second hitch bolt to make sure that the +2 attachment stayed attached to the main rack.
    4. I now have 3 different Yakima keys - one for the main unit, one for the +2, and one for the roof rack. Yakima does have a key trade in program where I could send in all of my new lock cores (which I will likely do) and get all keys and locks to be the same. This is a really nice service as long as you don't mind your rack being unlocked for 3-4 weeks.
    5. The rack folds up really compact.
    6. The rack seems to hold bikes really securely and I'm not seeing much wiggle in my rear view mirror.
    7. Yesterday I had some really strange catastrophic air leak out of my front tire on my bike. It appeared to be coming from the valve stem (tubeless). I have no idea why it decided to leak yesterday after sealing for 3-4 weeks, but the bike was outside on the rack in the sun all day, so thinking that might have something to do with it. The only comment (same for ALL tire racks) is that it doesn't hold the bike very solid when the tire doesn't hold air. Thankfully I noticed the position of the bike change in my rearview mirror and pulled over before it ended up dragging down the highway. Incidentally, the integrated cable lock would probably prevent the bike from moving very much if I could use it with my bike...
    8. It appears that you can buy an additional holdup 2 "spline" which is the base unit with 2" receiver. For $140 MSRP, I can use the two bike trays from the +2 for a second complete rack for my wife's car. I will probably hold off on buying that for a little while, but that is my plan long term. I typically don't haul more than 2 bikes, and in the event that I need to, it would probably take 15 minutes to move them from rack to rack.

    I'm estimating another $50 to fix the issues above. I can order in a Yakima hitch lock for about $30. I can order security M8 bolts for ~$20. This will *probably* keep everything on the rack, although I need to look again at how the rack attached to the hitch - it may be a single bolt to pull the entire rack. That would be disappointing.

    I may be overthinking this. In most cases, security cables and locks can be defeated by somebody who really wants to get your stuff. Most security measures just make it too hard to be worth it for somebody who is lazy.

    Seth

  5. #30
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    9,300ft
    Posts
    17,484
    I like my Yakima Holdup.

    Kuat would be my second choice but the Yakima was cheaper
    Quote Originally Posted by blurred
    skiing is hiking all day so that you can ski on shitty gear for 5 minutes.

  6. #31
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Where the climate suits my clothes.
    Posts
    3,980
    Is there really an assumption that bikes left unattended on any rack are "secure" from theft?

    I have always assumed the locks are more for security in transit than in a random parking lot..

  7. #32
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    6,489
    JPH - I get nervous going in to take a piss when I have bikes on the rack. When I'm on the road I end up at more fast food drive thoughs just so I don't have the bikes out of sight while I go in to get a sandwich at a deli. Front wheel holder racks that lock can be defeated in seconds by letting the air out of the tire At that point you can just roll the bike out.

    I've been using the Swagman Sitkka 2 for a few weeks now and it kicks ass. I think it's the best rack out there for the money at $299, $425 for the 3 bike. When transporting skinny tired bikes I do use a second strap on the front wheel though because bumpy roads will make it twist due to wide and shallow tray.

  8. #33
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    2,445
    I guess I see it as protection against some "lazier" thieves. Somebody who isn't necessarily looking and prepared to steal bikes off of racks, but somebody who stumbles upon the bike and would steal if not locked.

    I suppose that answers my "am I overthinking this" question. If somebody is prepared to cut a cable or defeat a lock, then there is little I can do. But moving from Allen bolts to security bolts just makes it harder for somebody to take my bikes with nothing more than a cheap tool kit with Allen wrenches and a couple of crescent wrenches.

    Seth

  9. #34
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    The Wilds of Maine
    Posts
    2,669
    I have the same rack and love it. Love that it folds up to a small footprint when not holding bikes. May have to tighten the axle through the hitch mount once in awhile to reduce the play it's it's no big deal.

    As others have said the included cable locks aren't going t stop serious thieves. Planning on getting a long cable lock I can loop through frames and wheels and though the frame of the car.
    "We're in the eye of a shiticane here Julian, and Ricky's a low shit system!" - Jim Lahey, RIP

    Former Managing Editor @ TGR, forever mag.

  10. #35
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    2,445
    Quote Originally Posted by Ryan Dunfee View Post
    Planning on getting a long cable lock I can loop through frames and wheels and though the frame of the car.
    I have ~6' kryptonite cable that I typically do this with also. Are you using the cable to extend the existing cable lock or are you planning on using a separate lock? If so, what kind of a lock?

  11. #36
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    The Wilds of Maine
    Posts
    2,669
    Quote Originally Posted by sethschmautz View Post
    I have ~6' kryptonite cable that I typically do this with also. Are you using the cable to extend the existing cable lock or are you planning on using a separate lock? If so, what kind of a lock?
    As a separate lock, for more deterrence. Honestly don't know which lock I'll get. Lots of choices so I gave up before figuring one out.
    "We're in the eye of a shiticane here Julian, and Ricky's a low shit system!" - Jim Lahey, RIP

    Former Managing Editor @ TGR, forever mag.

  12. #37
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
    15,553
    I know I've posted this a couple times here--

    I use this chain lock when I have to leave bikes locked up:
    https://www.cyclegear.com/accessorie...chain-and-lock

    Pick it up at any Cycle Gear shop, it's sold as a motorcycle lock. Much cheaper than Kryptonite or other bike label branded locks. I remember it being more like $35 though; seems like it's on sale all the time.

    On road trips though, we try to just have someone stand guard with the bikes in the parking lot, while others pick up food.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  13. #38
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    The Wilds of Maine
    Posts
    2,669
    Oh hell yeah... 6 feet and just $40? Buying tonight!
    "We're in the eye of a shiticane here Julian, and Ricky's a low shit system!" - Jim Lahey, RIP

    Former Managing Editor @ TGR, forever mag.

  14. #39
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Virgina (It's humid here)
    Posts
    4,312
    X2 on those.
    I have one for each car, and we bring them both if we're traveling and anticipate leaving the bikes on the rack overnight.
    It's such a good deal that when we flew out west last fall we bought one for the week and gave it to our friends when we left.

    Breaking a cable takes seconds and is quiet. Breaking a chain takes lots of minutes and loads of noise.
    If you want me to take a dump in a box and mark it tubeless, I will. I got spare time.

  15. #40
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Western MT
    Posts
    1,055
    Name:  pitbulls.jpg
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  16. #41
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    The best neighborhood in hades
    Posts
    4,656

    Best value hitch platform bike rack?

    I used to ride my XR50 to classes at U of A. I used this guy. No problems in the bike theft capital of the US. Mexico border and astronomy departments having a stronghold over light pollution don't mix.
    https://www.walmart.com/ip/MASTER-LO...&wl13=&veh=sem
    "One season per year, the gods open the skies, and releases a white, fluffy, pillow on top of the most forbidding mountain landscapes, allowing people to travel over them with ease and relative abandonment of concern for safety. It's incredible."

  17. #42
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    52
    Anyone have any experience with the Curt 2 Bike Platform Rack? https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Bike-...C18085-FB.html

  18. #43
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    6,489
    ^^ Yes. It's the Swagman XC 2/4. Reasonable value rack but the top tube hoop will rub the paint as the bikes shake while driving and if it's a carbon frame has the potential to do damage. Stick with a wheel holder...
    Last edited by gravitylover; 08-21-2017 at 06:55 AM.

  19. #44
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    768
    Slightly unrelated but...about to move across country - crazy to drive a bike on a $50 trunk rack the whole distance? Obviously I'd prefer a hitch platform rack but can't spend $300+ right now (in addition to the hitch).

  20. #45
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    755
    Once again I'm probably doing things wrong, but I bought an Allen 4 bike 2" hitch rack for like $60..... I added pads to the rests and bought a strong cable lock.

    I've driven from Colorado to the East coast and back maybe 5 times with it. No issues with bikes or rack so far.

  21. #46
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
    15,553
    Cheap foam split tube insulation works well for padding bikes on cheap racks. Get the kind without the adhesive strip, it's messy.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  22. #47
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    8,150
    I just use baling wire and duct tape and pad with some pine needles and/or hay from the side of the road. Whatever's available. Costs less than $5. Been doing this for 20 years driving back and forth from Barrow, AK to Punta Arenas, Chile with no issues whatsoever.

    We spent $11K on the bikes so gotta cut corners to make the CC payments.

  23. #48
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    2

    going thru the same process

    Where did you end up? I'm going thru the same process but always need a 4 up. If i can spend 700 vs 1000K that would seem a good trade to me!!
    Quote Originally Posted by sethschmautz View Post
    Right now, the front runners are the Thule T2 classic, the Yakima holdup, and the Kuat NV 2.0 base. I've found great deals on the latter two, otherwise they wouldn't be in the running.

    I like the Swagman and looked at other, similar options from saris and even rockymounts monorail but have four bikes between my wife and I, not to mention the kids. We are carrying four bikes a lot of places.

    Thanks for the feedback. If anybody has any pros/cons on the models listed above, I'd appreciate the insight.

    Seth

  24. #49
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    2,445
    Palmerton,

    I'd suggest reading the thread. It looks like you may have only read the first post as I gave an update in post 29 on what I bought and the pros/cons that I saw at that time. In addition to what I chose, a bunch of other people had great suggestions. I'll keep an eye on the thread, and if you have any specific questions after reading it, let me know.

    Seth
    Last edited by sethschmautz; 08-19-2017 at 10:37 PM.

  25. #50
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Posts
    2

    You suggest

    Umm ok, wow, Happy with my purchase. You may be/were wound too tight. Hope you are doing better a year on...

    Quote Originally Posted by sethschmautz View Post
    Palmerton,

    I'd suggest reading the thread. It looks like you may have only read the first post as I gave an update in post 29 on what I bought and the pros/cons that I saw at that time. In addition to what I chose, a bunch of other people had great suggestions. I'll keep an eye on the thread, and if you have any specific questions after reading it, let me know.

    Seth

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