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  1. #3226
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    907
    Posts
    13,643
    Sruffian your pos Sony might have buggered your column switch?

  2. #3227
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    tahoe de chingao
    Posts
    803
    Normal battery voltage when driving

    No other functions that run off the column switch are impacted, and again the pin for keyed 12v at the harness for the radio has the correct voltage

    Looks like I can locally pick up the same radio tomorrow w/ a good return policy. Before chasing down grounds, etc, I think i'm just gonna pop a brand new one onto the harness and see if it works w/ the keyed 12v appropriately. If not, bigger problem!

    Thanks, Chup - you're too kind! let me make sure it is in fact the radio and not wiring and i'll circle back w/ you

  3. #3228
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Granite, UT
    Posts
    1,251
    Quote Originally Posted by sruffian View Post
    I was out in the boonies yesterday beating up my old f-150 when the aftermarket radio died. I installed it myself so I figured I had knocked a connection loose or something was shorting out. Initially went out after a HARD bump. The unit came back on after another bump. It would run for about 5 minutes and then turn off. Back of the thing was hot. Once I let it cool down it would start up again. Most concerning, though, is that it wouldn't turn off when i pulled the key out of the ignition.

    Inspected everything in depth this morning. All wiring is intact, and no other function on the truck is messed up when I pull the key out of ignition. I got a voltimeter out and have 12v from the battery, and 12v from the ignition switch when in accessory or running, and .01V (or 0V) when the key is not in the ignition. This is at the pin that plugs into the radio.

    Doubt it matters but it's a sony xav-ax150.

    Before I replace the fuckin thing, what am I missing? If I have 12v keyed at the harness, but it's not turning off, I've got to think something inside the unit is shorting out, right??
    FWIW, it took me three new stalks on my F-150 before I got one that worked. Maybe basinbeater or other audiophiles can weigh in, but would a shorted speaker wire increase the resistance and result in an overheated amp? Maybe play with the balance and fader to make sure all of them are working?

  4. #3229
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Granite, UT
    Posts
    1,251
    It's like grade-b Maple Syrup... right out of the fridge.



  5. #3230
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Watching over the valley
    Posts
    3,915
    Quote Originally Posted by Touring_Sedan View Post
    FWIW, it took me three new stalks on my F-150 before I got one that worked. Maybe basinbeater or other audiophiles can weigh in, but would a shorted speaker wire increase the resistance and result in an overheated amp? Maybe play with the balance and fader to make sure all of them are working?
    The plug going into the back of the stereo will have an always hot 12v, a switched 12v usually labeled acc, and ground. Verify that 12v always on is... Always hot. Verify that 12 switched operates correctly with a turn of the key to acc. (This is accessories on and not engine. This one should keep power when engine runs as well. ). Measure resistance of ground wire from plug to chassis. Should be 0 ohm, or very very very low resistance.
    If those all check out and it still powers randomly, won't turn on, won't turn off, you have a faulty unit. Chuck it, (make sure you get your last CD out) and put chup's in.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using TGR Forums mobile app
    sigless.

  6. #3231
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    tahoe de chingao
    Posts
    803
    Thanks basin. Yeah 0.2 to 0.3 ohms of resistance for ground wire to chassis. Battery lead is always hot, keyed is 12v in accessory but not key off. Sony is replacing the unit so shipping it back today


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  7. #3232
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    West Coast of the East Coast
    Posts
    7,282
    Daughter's 1st trip to the junkyard. Big time score.
    Leather, 6 way power, from a Honda Odyssey, $50 ea.
    They are in pretty good shape, especially for the price.

    I will have to get a welder to make a bracket- thinking about bringing it across the entire cab and tying both seats and console to it, with the thought of tying it into a cage in the future.






    The 2X4 height is perfect. We should be able to run a flat bar straight across, since the spot where the console goes is raised already. We'll see what the welder suggests.

  8. #3233
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Watching over the valley
    Posts
    3,915
    ^^^ luxury livin right there!

    Sent from my SM-G960U using TGR Forums mobile app
    sigless.

  9. #3234
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    165
    Genuine Corinthian Leather!! (old Chrysler ad reference)

  10. #3235
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Granite, UT
    Posts
    1,251
    Quote Originally Posted by warthog View Post
    Daughter's 1st trip to the junkyard. Big time score.
    Leather, 6 way power, from a Honda Odyssey, $50 ea.
    They are in pretty good shape, especially for the price.

    I will have to get a welder to make a bracket- thinking about bringing it across the entire cab and tying both seats and console to it, with the thought of tying it into a cage in the future.






    The 2X4 height is perfect. We should be able to run a flat bar straight across, since the spot where the console goes is raised already. We'll see what the welder suggests.
    If there was anything to exemplify how fucking fat society has gotten over the years, it's the difference in those two seats.

  11. #3236
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Montrose, CO
    Posts
    3,672
    Quote Originally Posted by snowaddict91 View Post
    Looks like the passenger blend door failed on my F150. At least its stuck on heat for now. Should be a fun job tearing apart a good chunk of the dash and center console. FML.
    Finally tackled this today. Wound up being fairy straight forward, didn't have to pull the center console as one youtube video showed. I could easily do it again in an hour or so. I was pretty scared of the back bolt on the actuator, so many comments about it being impossible to get to, but with an open end wrench it wasn't too bad. I've certainly had single bolts fuck up my day way worse than that before. I did have to pull the touchscreen twice due to a missed connector first go around though...

    Best part is it fixed my problem! Time for a beer.

  12. #3237
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    8,786
    Quote Originally Posted by snowaddict91 View Post
    Finally tackled this today. Wound up being fairy straight forward, didn't have to pull the center console as one youtube video showed. I could easily do it again in an hour or so. I was pretty scared of the back bolt on the actuator, so many comments about it being impossible to get to, but with an open end wrench it wasn't too bad. I've certainly had single bolts fuck up my day way worse than that before. I did have to pull the touchscreen twice due to a missed connector first go around though...

    Best part is it fixed my problem! Time for a beer.
    Congratulations! A beer well deserved. Enjoy!

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using TGR Forums mobile app

  13. #3238
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    9,040
    Well the offers,such as they are, for a Rover that needs help before it can be used are pretty much a waste so it's looking like fixing it is the best option. Since I can't disable it in the driveway in the winter it will have to head for a shop and there's a specialist nearby that sounds like they know what's up and they got the Aldo seal of approval. So do I have them also get the AC working and change the high pressure power steering hose that weeps and makes the fluid in the reservoir bubble while they're in there? I think I should.

    I bet the 40 mile tow ain't gonna be cheap.

  14. #3239
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    san diego
    Posts
    2,808
    Quote Originally Posted by Touring_Sedan View Post
    If there was anything to exemplify how fucking fat society has gotten over the years, it's the difference in those two seats.
    Just go with a bench seat


  15. #3240
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    1,915
    GL- I'm guessing you don't have it but take a peek at AAA or roadside through your insurance. I've gotten AAA just for the year since membership gets a certain mileage of free tow. Yearly membership with free tow was significantly less than the one long tow I needed.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using TGR Forums mobile app

  16. #3241
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    9,040
    @Evdog - haha

    @ll ooh shit, I forgot I got AAA last year when we really started traveling with it. Yay, already paid for tow Geico said I couldn't get tow coverage on an old Range Rover.

  17. #3242
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    san diego
    Posts
    2,808
    No hood to work under here, but I had some work to do on my moto recently.


    A little while ago I found a crack in my rack. This is the luggage carrier on my moto with a mountain bike carrier bolted to it.




    The only local "no job too small" welder that returned my call wanted $85 for this little weld. The rack cost $100 new. Talked him down to $55. Done.




    But the rack will fail again if not supported better. It only has two supports: two screws behind the seat, and two arms that drop down and bolt to the frame. The rack cantilevers out behind those. When the MTB is mounted, the two straps go over the stem and compress the fork. This actually lifts the back end of the bike up so there isn't any downward force on the cantilevered rack. Until you get on bumpy roads of course, when the bike would swing up and down. I'd planned to ask the welder for a quote to fab something up to support it better, but considering his price on the weld I decided to look at other options.




    I noticed the bolts for the rear tail light were spaced similar to the slots on the bike carrier. And, that is a nut welded above the frame which doesn't have a stopper, so I could thread a longer bolt through it. I drilled out the plastic fender from below and test fit some long bolts. I was prepared to drill more holes, but the bolts fit through everything perfectly.




    Next I played with a selection of nuts and washers to find the best spacing. One nut & spacer below the fender and 3 nuts between the fender and rack produced a solid result. I like this as the weight of the rack isn't borne by the bolt threads, its actually sitting on the frame. All I really need this to do is stop the rack from swinging up and down as much on rough roads, which is what caused the crack. This should do the trick.


  18. #3243
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Tahoe-ish
    Posts
    1,885
    Evdog, if that doesn't work (you'll eventually just break the subframe without some struts diagonally down from farther back), swing by here and I'll help you make your dream rack. My TIG welder and tubing bender exist mostly to make moto racks, it seems.
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  19. #3244
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    2,115
    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    Well the offers,such as they are, for a Rover that needs help before it can be used are pretty much a waste so it's looking like fixing it is the best option. Since I can't disable it in the driveway in the winter it will have to head for a shop and there's a specialist nearby that sounds like they know what's up and they got the Aldo seal of approval. So do I have them also get the AC working and change the high pressure power steering hose that weeps and makes the fluid in the reservoir bubble while they're in there? I think I should.

    I bet the 40 mile tow ain't gonna be cheap.
    Check your o rings at the ps pump before replacing the line. What's wrong with your ac ? Both O'Reilly's and AutoZone have manifold gauges and vacuum pump available for use for proper recharging after repair if that's your worry. AC work isn't very difficult and can save you a quick $1000. Usually it's a leaking condenser or compressor issue and both aren't all that difficult if your patient and have a bit of mechanical aptitude.

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