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  1. #2526
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
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    Meiss Meadows
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    1,733
    Quote Originally Posted by The Reverend Floater View Post
    Angle grinder + fuel line = Bad Idea Jeans
    If his camera is running it could make for a viral video.

  2. #2527
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
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    7,986
    Quote Originally Posted by fatnslow View Post
    I do have an angle grinder so maybe I can just use it to cut my fuel line to add that auxiliary fuel pump ?
    Please don't do that.

  3. #2528
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    1,839
    Quote Originally Posted by MontuckyFried View Post
    Please don't do that.
    Maybe I'll have to take up smoking again and have a heater in my mouth while firing up the grinder on the fuel line ?
    Even the world's second worst mechanic like me wouldn't try that !

  4. #2529
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
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    18,266
    Quote Originally Posted by Thaleia View Post
    Hey thanks for the advice, it is greatly appreciated.

    Yes, bolt is in place of a pin. It must thread into the bike rack since there is no nut on the opposite side.

    Attachment 375526

    This is the sheared off side, no nut on the other side.

    I know those extractors a little too well - given how 'stuck' it is I can't see it working with my skill level.

    I'm thinking of two options at this point - mechanic to remove all, or maybe spend some time with a grinder (thanks MTM) and cut the bike rack portion off which will allow me to possibly see if I can then get at the bolt from the inside of the carrier.
    Is that a Thule T2? Ours has a bolt that threads into the rack on one side, where the hitch pin would fit. On the inside of the rack is a nut that is spot welded in place - that is what the bolt threads into.

    Can you see inside the rack part that is inserted into the hitch? If you can see the nut welded in place, I wonder if you would be able to reach the spot welds with a Dremel extension (flex shaft) and cut into the welds enough such that you can just hammer the broken stub - - still attached to the nut - - into the inside of the rack. And then simply wiggle out the broken parts.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  5. #2530
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    1,246
    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    Is that a Thule T2? Ours has a bolt that threads into the rack on one side, where the hitch pin would fit. On the inside of the rack is a nut that is spot welded in place - that is what the bolt threads into.

    Can you see inside the rack part that is inserted into the hitch? If you can see the nut welded in place, I wonder if you would be able to reach the spot welds with a Dremel extension (flex shaft) and cut into the welds enough such that you can just hammer the broken stub - - still attached to the nut - - into the inside of the rack. And then simply wiggle out the broken parts.
    It's a Thule Apex 2 xt. Can't see in side but the spot welded nut is exactly what I expect is in there. I think I'm going to try some surgery in a bit..

  6. #2531
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
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    7,986
    Quote Originally Posted by Thaleia View Post
    It's a Thule Apex 2 xt. Can't see in side but the spot welded nut is exactly what I expect is in there. I think I'm going to try some surgery in a bit..
    Did some quick googling for ya, and seems the general consensus for this problem is basically to drill it out. Someone said to center punch a nice spot square in the middle, drill (going slow and constantly lubing/cooling the bit), work your way up to bigger bits, taking care not to hit the threads on the hitch, and eventually you can pop out whatever remains with a hammer/punch, pliers, or whatever it takes.

  7. #2532
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    13,291
    Quote Originally Posted by MontuckyFried View Post
    Did some quick googling for ya, and seems the general consensus for this problem is basically to drill it out. Someone said to center punch a nice spot square in the middle, drill (going slow and constantly lubing/cooling the bit), work your way up to bigger bits, taking care not to hit the threads on the hitch, and eventually you can pop out whatever remains with a hammer/punch, pliers, or whatever it takes.
    That's how we used to break into safes before our friend Jimmy got busted and did hard time.
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  8. #2533
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sandy, Utah
    Posts
    13,555
    Quote Originally Posted by MontuckyFried View Post
    Did some quick googling for ya, and seems the general consensus for this problem is basically to drill it out. Someone said to center punch a nice spot square in the middle, drill (going slow and constantly lubing/cooling the bit), work your way up to bigger bits, taking care not to hit the threads on the hitch, and eventually you can pop out whatever remains with a hammer/punch, pliers, or whatever it takes.
    220, 221, whatever it takes.
    http://www.firsttracksonline.com

    I wish i could be like SkiFishBum

  9. #2534
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    Sep 2010
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    Tejas
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skidog View Post
    220, 221, whatever it takes.
    HA! Love that movie.

  10. #2535
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
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    18,266
    Quote Originally Posted by MontuckyFried View Post
    Did some quick googling for ya, and seems the general consensus for this problem is basically to drill it out. Someone said to center punch a nice spot square in the middle, drill (going slow and constantly lubing/cooling the bit), work your way up to bigger bits, taking care not to hit the threads on the hitch, and eventually you can pop out whatever remains with a hammer/punch, pliers, or whatever it takes.
    That is so much easier said than done. Drilling out broken bolts really sucks.

    Grinding or cutting is much faster, if at all possible.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  11. #2536
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    1,246
    Well shit, wasn't expecting it to be solid.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thanks for the research MF, drilling it out is looking like my only option. We're still in lockdown here, might take a bit of time to get my hands on some better drill bits.

  12. #2537
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thaleia View Post
    Well shit, wasn't expecting it to be solid.

    Click image for larger version. 

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Views:	67 
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ID:	375580

    Thanks for the research MF, drilling it out is looking like my only option. We're still in lockdown here, might take a bit of time to get my hands on some better drill bits.
    OMG! Good luck getting THAT bastard out of there. Gnarly!

  13. #2538
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    Tejas
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    That is so much easier said than done. Drilling out broken bolts really sucks.

    Grinding or cutting is much faster, if at all possible.
    Sure, but did you see his pic? There's pretty much nothing left to cut or grind. It's gonna be teh suckage to remove either way.

  14. #2539
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    15,231
    I think it's pretty clear what needs to be done at this point.

    Plasma torch the vehicle.

  15. #2540
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Watching over the valley
    Posts
    3,720
    Oh man, you're fucked. Someone mentioned it before, a bfh. Soak it with penetrating oil, whack it with a big hammer, hit it with a torch, soak it in pentrating oil, whack it with a bfh, hit it with a torch. Repeat. Gonna have to grind a slot in it. Uh, careful with the grinder... Barrier between grinder and fuel lines...
    If it was me, I'd probably turn my focus to the trailer hitch bolts, and start with... Wait for it... Penetrating oil, hit it with a big fucking hammer, heat it. Repeat, until you can break the bolt loose.
    That looks like a nightmare. My projects all look easy now... Thanks.

    Fyi, the penetrating oil, heat, and critically, the bfh, all serve to break up the rust in the threads. Tales time, but that is how I have gotten gnarly bolts out. But that looks fucked.

    sent from Utah.
    sigless.

  16. #2541
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Montrose, CO
    Posts
    3,346
    ^yup. I'd say you need a new hitch now. No way you're getting that out of there with nothing to put leverage on.

  17. #2542
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    1,246
    No worries. Shit situation (and stupid hours put in so far - sorry neighbors for the hours of grinding and pounding noises) but I appreciate that this is a low risk repair. Car runs etc lol. If I fuck it up then I look at removing the hitch. Already scoped that out, a grinder in some tight spots will be able to remove resolve seized shit, probably easier than removing this thing from the hitch. The way the hitch is mounted I have access to both sides of it's bolts/nuts. It's vertically mounted sorta behind the fuel tank squeezed up to the bumper, not horizontal along the sub frame.

  18. #2543
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Posts
    19
    Consider taking off the hitch and setting up your hydrologic jack to try and passed that sht out of there.

    Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk

  19. #2544
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Watching over the valley
    Posts
    3,720
    Quote Originally Posted by niknoid View Post
    Consider taking off the hitch and setting up your hydrologic jack to try and passed that sht out of there.

    Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk
    Take pics and preemptively prepare a post of the Darwin thread just in case...

    sent from Utah.
    sigless.

  20. #2545
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    15,231
    Shoot the hostage.
    Is it radix panax notoginseng? - splat

  21. #2546
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
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    LV-426
    Posts
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    Cutting off the bike rack insert flush with the receiver was a bad idea.

    Was that insert steel or aluminum? 2" or 1 1/4"? I would not expect a bike rack insert to be solid steel if 2".
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  22. #2547
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    15,231
    Blow up the car.
    Is it radix panax notoginseng? - splat

  23. #2548
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    West Coast of the East Coast
    Posts
    7,135
    Apparently, this is THE shit for getting stuck stuff unstuck.
    Your case would prove that theory. Not cheap, but the best mechanics and marine guys I know swear by this stuff.
    https://www.kroil.com/?gclid=EAIaIQo...iAAEgJEVvD_BwE

  24. #2549
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Cackalacky
    Posts
    3,016
    what in the fuck is going on here?
    you don't want no smoke.

  25. #2550
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    West Coast of the East Coast
    Posts
    7,135
    Well, I didn't have to change the fuel pump. It was (is?) the computer. Pulled it tonight. Couple good rust spots on the outer case. Rusty interior slot where the computer is housed. Corrosion on the connector is visible. Opened it up and there are at least 4 spots where the circuit board shows leakage, corrosion, and burns. I am sending it out to be rebuilt by a reputable company that guarantees their work. Man, I hate modern(ish) vehicles. Working on my CJ is sooooo much easier than this Bronco. I am learning a lot though, which is fun. If this had to be a daily driver, and it wasn't just a fun project, it would be a nightmare.

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