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  1. #3626
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    5,013
    That's life with an Audi 2.0T motor

  2. #3627
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    11,860
    It's not just your imagination. I've seen people on the Volvo and Audi forums both report oil consumption going away after switching to Liqui-Moly. I've also had the same results after switching to Motul. Dealer would use Castrol Edge and it'd use up maybe 1/2L between changes. With Motul, consumption has been reduced to nothing as far as I can tell. I wonder if it's the additives they use. It also looks WAY better at the end too.

    Liqui-Moly and Motul are both REALLY good stuff. I'm an oil snob tho but the results spoke for themselves. Anecdotally at least.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using TGR Forums mobile app

  3. #3628
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Almost Mountains
    Posts
    1,883
    FWIW, I found that Liqui-Moly in my BMW motorcycle engine was also the best way to not need to add oil between changes. Maybe it's something about German engines and German oil.

    Sent from my SM-G892A using TGR Forums mobile app

  4. #3629
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    1,744
    What Mobil 1 oil were you using? I don't think the regular stuff meets the Audi specs.

  5. #3630
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    2,469
    What weight oil did the mechanic put in? When I was looking for a B7 2.0t I saw one with a 40w-50 bottle of oil in the trunk. Dude swore he did not have to top up his oil.

    I used German Castrol and I definately had to top up more than than Mobil 1. Right now I have to top up 1l halfway to 15k OCI on my 3.2.

    The car I was talking about is my GF Elantra. Close to 200k km. Mobil 1 5w-20 20k-25k km OCI. Engine is spotless. Zero sludge.



    Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

  6. #3631
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    my own little world
    Posts
    5,838

    Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

    Quote Originally Posted by The Tortoise View Post
    What Mobil 1 oil were you using? I don't think the regular stuff meets the Audi specs.
    I used the euro car spec stuff that met the VW 502 spec or whatever that my car demanded.
    focus.

  7. #3632
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    my own little world
    Posts
    5,838
    Quote Originally Posted by Cocximus View Post
    What weight oil did the mechanic put in? When I was looking for a B7 2.0t I saw one with a 40w-50 bottle of oil in the trunk. Dude swore he did not have to top up his oil.

    I used German Castrol and I definately had to top up more than than Mobil 1. Right now I have to top up 1l halfway to 15k OCI on my 3.2.

    The car I was talking about is my GF Elantra. Close to 200k km. Mobil 1 5w-20 20k-25k km OCI. Engine is spotless. Zero sludge.



    Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
    5w40
    focus.

  8. #3633
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    11,767
    I really like the Liqui Moly Cera Tec oil additive. The engine is quieter on startup, revs more freely and gets slightly better mpg. I also have their ATF 1800 in my ZF tranny for ~25k miles now and it has been shifting more smoothly than it did with the stock LG6 fluid.

    So now that old ghost of Lucas is haunting the Rover. It started with the screen going black then this really loud, ugly buzz starts a few second before it dropped to the bumpstops and I had to pull over and disconnect the battery to get it to reset. I went home and tested the battery and it showed right at 12 volts so I put a slow charge on it overnight and it was fine the next day. Then the second time the Ultragauge screamed alarms at me that the battery voltage was too high so I was a minute from home and just turned around. I ordered a surprisingly affordable alternator and am hoping the battery didn't get cooked because it costs more than double what the alt costs. Before I dig into changing this thing what else might cause an overcharge situation?

  9. #3634
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,269
    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    I really like the Liqui Moly Cera Tec oil additive. The engine is quieter on startup, revs more freely and gets slightly better mpg. I also have their ATF 1800 in my ZF tranny for ~25k miles now and it has been shifting more smoothly than it did with the stock LG6 fluid.

    So now that old ghost of Lucas is haunting the Rover. It started with the screen going black then this really loud, ugly buzz starts a few second before it dropped to the bumpstops and I had to pull over and disconnect the battery to get it to reset. I went home and tested the battery and it showed right at 12 volts so I put a slow charge on it overnight and it was fine the next day. Then the second time the Ultragauge screamed alarms at me that the battery voltage was too high so I was a minute from home and just turned around. I ordered a surprisingly affordable alternator and am hoping the battery didn't get cooked because it costs more than double what the alt costs. Before I dig into changing this thing what else might cause an overcharge situation?
    What was the voltage when it was too high ?

  10. #3635
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    1,007
    A failing alternator will do that, i believe its the regulators job to keep it below a certain level, sometimes very low 14’s but 13’s is more than acceptable.

    Most auto parts stores can bench test both.

  11. #3636
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    11,767
    Quote Originally Posted by fatnslow View Post
    What was the voltage when it was too high ?
    15.5-15.8 and then within 10 seconds of 15+ it would drop to 11.5-11.8.

  12. #3637
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Posts
    2,100
    ^Since you just had engine work done, double check your alternator’s connections for looseness and/or corrosion. Judging by the numbers you’ve given you’ve got a wonky voltage regulator in the alternator.

  13. #3638
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,269
    Alternator is a fairly simple device , it spins and generates power with regulated output. As previously noted your regulator/rectifier sounds like the problem. I would confirm with a voltage meter at the battery for alternator output voltage independent of your plug in device. You might also consider replacing the regulator/rectifier and brushes on the old one IF your bearings feel smooth. Cheap after market alternators can be a crap shoot.

  14. #3639
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    11,767
    Quote Originally Posted by mcphee View Post
    ^Since you just had engine work done, double check your alternator’s connections for looseness and/or corrosion. Judging by the numbers you’ve given you’ve got a wonky voltage regulator in the alternator.
    I hadn't thought to check the plugs, probably because it hasn't been a problem but looking at it I could see where it could've gotten wet or moved around. I'll try to get a tester on it with more than just a series of lights before I start dismantling.

    They said it's actually OE so it should be better than low end. Maybe not Land Rover (or Ford) branded but better than it could be. I might forego the $100 core charge and try to rebuild it myself to learn about alternators. I also saved the CV/axle that I just replaced on the Volvo this morning to rebuild it because, why not.

  15. #3640
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    1,007
    Whatdoes a reman go for? Ebay or carpart pulloff might be a better option if youre not keeping it forever

  16. #3641
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    West Coast of the East Coast
    Posts
    7,738
    Found a good powder coat and sand blast guy.

    Before:



    After:

  17. #3642
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    11,767
    Quote Originally Posted by Todd Zander View Post
    Whatdoes a reman go for? Ebay or carpart pulloff might be a better option if youre not keeping it forever
    $15 less than new. There is still an alternator/starter shop a mile away and it sounds like it might be worth it for me to pull this and bring it in first. It looks like a few hours of entertainment.

  18. #3643
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,269
    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    I hadn't thought to check the plugs, probably because it hasn't been a problem but looking at it I could see where it could've gotten wet or moved around. I'll try to get a tester on it with more than just a series of lights before I start dismantling.

    They said it's actually OE so it should be better than low end. Maybe not Land Rover (or Ford) branded but better than it could be. I might forego the $100 core charge and try to rebuild it myself to learn about alternators. I also saved the CV/axle that I just replaced on the Volvo this morning to rebuild it because, why not.
    Amount of money you'll spend in soap to wash your clothes and your hands won't cover what you'll save rebuilding a drive axle. Alternator is usually just a few nuts and screws.

  19. #3644
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    11,767
    It's mostly out of curiosity and the rebuild kit is less than $100 so it sounds like a good winter project.

  20. #3645
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    11,767
    So, of course, the Rover problem got worse before I could "solve" it. Last night I tested the battery and it was at 12.48, this morning I tried to test and isolate it a bit better and the battery was at 12.2 so obviously there's a small drain but I don't know if that's normal for this thing. I started it and as expected it went to ~14.5 and then held steady around 14.1. When it warmed up all of a sudden the numbers started jumping between 10-16 and simultaneously it threw a P2032 and U0151 as it belched a big blob of smoke out of the exhaust and it stalled.

    I let it sit for a minute then checked the battery and it was at 11.2. I turned the key to position 2 and it dropped to the mid 10s before starting when it went nuts so I shut it down immediately.

    At this point I'm thinking battery and alternator but fukk that's expensive and it could still turn out to be something else causing the problem. That 2032 code is a fuel pump miscommunication with the BCM but is it the pump or fluctuating power level from a bad alternator?

  21. #3646
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,269
    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    So, of course, the Rover problem got worse before I could "solve" it. Last night I tested the battery and it was at 12.48, this morning I tried to test and isolate it a bit better and the battery was at 12.2 so obviously there's a small drain but I don't know if that's normal for this thing. I started it and as expected it went to ~14.5 and then held steady around 14.1. When it warmed up all of a sudden the numbers started jumping between 10-16 and simultaneously it threw a P2032 and U0151 as it belched a big blob of smoke out of the exhaust and it stalled.

    I let it sit for a minute then checked the battery and it was at 11.2. I turned the key to position 2 and it dropped to the mid 10s before starting when it went nuts so I shut it down immediately.

    At this point I'm thinking battery and alternator but fukk that's expensive and it could still turn out to be something else causing the problem. That 2032 code is a fuel pump miscommunication with the BCM but is it the pump or fluctuating power level from a bad alternator?
    If you have low voltage all bets are off. You might try charging your battery and a new alternator or voltage regulator & brushes(IDK if it's one component on your unit) in your alternator. IDK your cars setup but of your super lucky you might be able to throw in the regulator while the alternator is still installed BUT since it's a euro that would be like winning the lottery

  22. #3647
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Posts
    2,100
    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    So, of course, the Rover problem got worse before I could "solve" it. Last night I tested the battery and it was at 12.48, this morning I tried to test and isolate it a bit better and the battery was at 12.2 so obviously there's a small drain but I don't know if that's normal for this thing. I started it and as expected it went to ~14.5 and then held steady around 14.1. When it warmed up all of a sudden the numbers started jumping between 10-16 and simultaneously it threw a P2032 and U0151 as it belched a big blob of smoke out of the exhaust and it stalled.

    I let it sit for a minute then checked the battery and it was at 11.2. I turned the key to position 2 and it dropped to the mid 10s before starting when it went nuts so I shut it down immediately.

    At this point I'm thinking battery and alternator but fukk that's expensive and it could still turn out to be something else causing the problem. That 2032 code is a fuel pump miscommunication with the BCM but is it the pump or fluctuating power level from a bad alternator?
    Fluctuating voltage such as yours will cause all sorts of weirdness with ECMs. Have your battery tested and throw that new alternator in and it will most likely calm down.

  23. #3648
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    11,767
    Cool. That seems to be the consensus. I'll get the alternator swapped out tomorrow. Hopefully the battery didn't get fukked up, these AGM batteries are fkn expensive.

  24. #3649
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    11,860
    How much for an OEM "Land Rover" battery? I've heard of some having fewer weirdo ECU related gremlins when switching back to whatever came from the factory. I'm bout to do the same on my Volvo.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using TGR Forums mobile app
    Last edited by MontuckyFried; 06-09-2022 at 10:17 PM.

  25. #3650
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    11,767
    There are a few brands the Euro guys like but they're not available here. I'll get the alternator first then see how the battery health is, at $350 for a new Interstate AGM I'm in no hurry to get a new one

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