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  1. #151
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    Aug 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by basinbeater View Post
    You should do it yourself. At least the 911s stopped using torsion bars a long time ago.
    If you need a hand, holler. I have spring compressors as well if you need them.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using TGR Forums mobile app
    Thanks, I'll be in touch later this summer . Definitely need to borrow the spring compressor, appreciate it.

    Sent from my SM-J327P using TGR Forums mobile app
    Success has many fathers, while failure remains an orphan // Many men go fishing all of their lives without knowing that it is not the fish they are after - HDT

  2. #152
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    YetiMan
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    10,708
    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    You can get electric impact wrenches too, if you don't want a whole compressor setup. I haven't used any but have heard that they work pretty well.

    I like air tools.
    I got a cordless impact driver last year. It's awesome.

  3. #153
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    Watching over the valley
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    Quote Originally Posted by ill-advised strategy View Post
    I got a cordless impact driver last year. It's awesome.
    I got a nice big Dewalt one a while back, and while it is quite good, and served me well at the track when I used to race, for nasty ones you need the air. When I had to remove the flywheel on my 944, the electric wouldn't cut it. So I picked up a big air gun, and all nine flywheel bolts came spinning off like butter.
    I do still use the cordless more than the air.

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  4. #154
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    Aspen, Colorado
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    2,463
    Quote Originally Posted by basinbeater View Post
    I got a nice big Dewalt one a while back, and while it is quite good, and served me well at the track when I used to race, for nasty ones you need the air. When I had to remove the flywheel on my 944, the electric wouldn't cut it. So I picked up a big air gun, and all nine flywheel bolts came spinning off like butter.
    I do still use the cordless more than the air.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using TGR Forums mobile app
    Second that. A few years ago my big compressor died and a I bought a smaller one for tires and air guns. It doesn't run my impact gun for long, so I bought an electric dewalt impact gun from a pawn store. I use it to remove almost any lugnut torqued to 85 ft/lbs and corroded on. It doesn't touch the Dodge M37's lug nuts at 300 ft/lbs though

  5. #155
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    Ack. Fuckin upholstery. Still haven't gotten to the main event, the sport seats... Makin progress I guess, fuckin hassle factor elevated.
    Need more hog rings.

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  6. #156
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    The Mayonnaisium
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    6,980
    Did you say you have hog ring pliers? They're worth it if you don't.

  7. #157
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    driving past the Stop and Shop
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    2,895
    Upholstery jobs look like the ultimate bitch to me. Pull to much one way and you have a wrinkle in another etc. Hard work indeed but the back seat you showed earlier looked tits.

    On the air/compressor topic what sort of minimum compressor specs do you folks suggest for wrenching? I've researched a bit and got lost in a stew of CFM, psi, gallons, HP, gas v. Electric etc. Mostly interested in the impact wrench aspect but some body work could be part of the equation too. Probably will try to scrounge one on CL because, you know, screw retail.
    Damn, we're in a tight spot!

  8. #158
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
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    I have only experience with one shop compressor, but it's been running for 17 years without a problem. I bought a Craftsman oil less, 120v, something like this:

    https://www.craftsman.com/products/c...?taxon_id=1642

    It'd be underpowered for industrial shop use, but has been fine for home garage use. CFM at high psi (90 psi or whatever the high rating is at) is what you want to pay attention to. It's what will drive your tools adequately, or not. The bigger the tank, the longer it'll run tools without having to cycle the compressor.

    Supposedly the oil less ones like I have aren't nearly as reliable as the oiled ones. Mine was on a return sale and I didn't know any better anyway, so grabbed it for like $100.

    Recommend using a cheap inline water catch filter, and draining the condensate at the bottom of the tank every time you use it. Also, Harbor Freight is a good source for air hoses and miscellaneous fittings.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  9. #159
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    Yeah, I bought a husky oil less one from home depot cheap, father's day sale or something, for home garage use it is fine.
    And yes, I do have specific hog ring pliers. Wouldn't dream of tackling the job without them.

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  10. #160
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    YetiMan
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    10,708
    well, 351m has new lifters, new rockers and pushrods.

    Say a little prayer for me as I test drive her to work.

  11. #161
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    169
    Quote Originally Posted by Obstruction View Post
    I've got a cheap harbor freight electric but it must be at least 18 inches long. It's good for lug nuts but I can't use it most places.
    I have the same one. It's kind of hard to get in tight spots.

    If you have portable power tools both Milwaukee and Dewalt make solid impacts that use their batteries. The newer 1/2 inch ones supposedly run just as much torque as the air tools. You can watch the vids on youtube. Problem is they're really expensive.



    Sent from my Nexus 6 using TGR Forums mobile app

  12. #162
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    Dec 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by ill-advised strategy View Post
    well, 351m has new lifters, new rockers and pushrods.

    Say a little prayer for me as I test drive her to work.
    So did you make it to work? Or you still walkin home cause it died on you in the middle a nowhere?

    On a separate note...
    It's alive.
    Tied up some loose ends around the front end, lowered it down and went for a spina round the block. Gets up to temperature nicely and stays there. Sound pretty good with that ansa sport exhaust that it came with. Sounds... Um sporty.
    Would look better with 15s. Still got some other loose ends to tie up around the interior, and finish off the upholstery, but it's getting closer.

    Bmw fan boy right here...

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  13. #163
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
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    driving past the Stop and Shop
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    2,895
    Cool ride!
    Damn, we're in a tight spot!

  14. #164
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    Dec 2005
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    Watching over the valley
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    Nobody doin work?

    Finished up the rear seat. Cleaned up the rear panels before installing the seat cushions. Seat back didn't come out as good as the bottom, but I think the back seat looks pretty good overall.


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  15. #165
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    ^^looks top notch. 10k on resale? Saw a clean, red e30 2dr on the way home today. The hooligans in charge were friendly. Cleared up the vacuum leak on the 996 today & made sure all of 4th gear worked. Bitch likes to get dirty, aint my fault
    mountainous regions are wonderlands

  16. #166
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    Dec 2005
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    Yeah that's what I'm thinking. 10 should net me a tidy profit. I paid 4k, and am into it about 2k more in parts, bulk being the reupholster kit and the springs and shocks. About 500 in other parts brings me to about 6k total in it. The dash is cracked, and there is no easy fix for that, hell, just finding an unranked one for sale is tough. Got it registered today.

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  17. #167
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    Bummer, I wonder if a local fabricator could help.
    mountainous regions are wonderlands

  18. #168
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    1,377
    It's not current, but it's my latest--

    OOPS! God Damnit--
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    Rip it apart. Go to the junk yard for parts. The frame is straight. The drivetrain is fucking new for crying out loud.
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    Add some bondo. Sand it. Just make it straight for fucks sake.
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    Drop it off at a paint shop. "Just make it orange again."
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    Reupholster things that can be done for the cheap. Buys some sheep skin because Fuck those seats.
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    Install new carpet. Add some speakers. You're going to sleep and fuck back here, right?
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    And BAM-- Move to Montana. Ski a bit.
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    God fucking damnit. Are you kidding me?
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    Of course I didn't install a roll cage. What, do you think I didn't learn my lesson the first time?
    Of course I didn't buy collision insurance-- if I wreck it, I'll just fix it myself. I'm sure as shit not going to total it again. Been down that road.

    Fuck me. Fuck this truck. Luck doesn't come in threes. If I crash this thing again, it'll fucking kill me. That's its goal.

  19. #169
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Cambridge, MA/Jackson, WY
    Posts
    443
    Nice truck! How you've survived two rollovers without a bar in one of these, I'm not sure.

  20. #170
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    General Sherman's Favorite City
    Posts
    18,109
    Holy shit that was a great TR. Glad you're alive!
    I still call it The Jake.

  21. #171
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    Watching over the valley
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    Badass truck. Stop crashing it hehe.

    Nap time is a good time to watch American ninja warriors and work on interior. One sport seat just about done. Cleaned up the mounting brackets and painted black. Drying out in the front yard.





    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using TGR Forums mobile app
    Last edited by basinbeater; 06-25-2017 at 08:53 AM.
    sigless.

  22. #172
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    YetiMan
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    10,708
    Quote Originally Posted by basinbeater View Post
    So did you make it to work? Or you still walkin home cause it died on you in the middle a nowhere?
    Man, is it nice to just roll around with no tick tick tick.
    Having everything apart, I could see areas of old rust and pitting on all those pieces, I'm sure it's from extended sitting some time in the past. Mechanics at work say the lifters will take up like .020...so I'm sure between all those wear surfaces: the cam, the lifters, the pushrods and various parts of the rockers there must have been more than that 020 of wear. Sounds tight enough now.



    Now I can listen to the radio again. Yesss!
    4 stiff ass leaf springs....this thing rides like my old hardtail Harley.


  23. #173
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
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    LV-426
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    Mrs. C.'s Xterra has been showing a little vibration noticeable at higher speeds -- 60-80 mph or so. Had the tires rebalanced, no change. That's not typically a speed where I've noticed tire imbalance; seems like that's more of a 40-60 mph range.

    From the internet (Xterra forums and the like), driveshaft U-joints have been an issue on the Xterra and Frontier, with some dying fairly early on -- like 40K miles. Mrs. C.'s Xterra has 125K miles, so seems like a reasonable guess. Ordered the 3 U-joints for the driveshafts from Rock Auto. Xterra uses two U-joints on the front driveshaft (traditional design), and only one on the rear driveshaft (at the slip yoke on the transfer case end), with the differential end using a weird integrated thing that apparently isn't serviceable.

    Pulled the front driveshaft yesterday, and it's on the workbench. One of the U-joints feels a little stiff, but neither is that bad. Picking up a U-joint press tool from Autozone loaner tools today, and will get the U-joints swapped out this week. I've replaced them before by pounding them out with sockets and a hammer, but that's a PITA, so am going to try the proper tool this time.

    There's not much space on work with on the Xterra driveshaft bolts. Can't fit a ratcheting wrench or a socket + ratchet; you have to use a open end or box wrench. Nissan cranked those things on there tight. Pro tip for maximum leverage: slip the end of a trailer ball wrench over the box end wrench, add 18" of breaker bar leverage. Bolts loosened right up, no heat or penetrating oil needed.

    One of these:
    https://www.amazon.com/Reese-Towpowe.../dp/B000CQOIV4
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  24. #174
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    YetiMan
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    as a diagnostic aid, with the rear driveshaft out you could now take it for a run in front-wheel-drive and see if you still have the shakes.

  25. #175
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    Quote Originally Posted by ill-advised strategy View Post
    as a diagnostic aid, with the rear driveshaft out you could now take it for a run in front-wheel-drive and see if you still have the shakes.
    Front driveshaft is out currently. Did take it for a drive, and the shakes seem to be gone, so hopefully the issue is one of the front driveshaft U-joints.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

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