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  1. #3301
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    Mar 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by MontuckyFried View Post
    You are spot on. Totally would have been that cheap few years back. Now this chump's asking $5K. Base model, hubcaps, nothing special. This market is so dumb right now.

    Also found an '05 Mini Cooper S with only like 130K for $3500. Possibly bad cats (or O2 sensors) but is in way better shape. That's a fun car but I'd probably be tempting fate with that one. Turbo goes bad and I'm screwed on the value. SO many issues with the Coopers but at least they're damn fun to drive... When they're not bankrupting you with repairs that is.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using TGR Forums mobile app
    Offer $2500 for the mini with the cat price as justification, drop the rear part if the exhaust, suck out all the shit in the cat and install 02 sensor extenders and drive it like you stole it.
    Maybe see if you can find someone with a a wrecked one and buy the complete exhaust. I know it's a federal crime to resell catalytic converters but aren't you in Texas where federal mawas don't really apply ?

  2. #3302
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    Sep 2010
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    Tejas
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatnslow View Post
    Offer $2500 for the mini with the cat price as justification, drop the rear part if the exhaust, suck out all the shit in the cat and install 02 sensor extenders and drive it like you stole it.
    Maybe see if you can find someone with a a wrecked one and buy the complete exhaust. I know it's a federal crime to resell catalytic converters but aren't you in Texas where federal mawas don't really apply ?
    I like your style! Solid plan. I'll reach out to the dude. It's about 80 miles away. No biggie but I'll need a ride in case I end up taking it home so prolly can't go til Thursday. Needs smog tests where he is so maybe why the fair price. No smog checks in my hood tho! And yeah, no worries about selling cats here either AFAIK.

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  3. #3303
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    Mar 2019
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    1,190
    Quote Originally Posted by Todd Zander View Post
    What the fuck are you talking about? Silicone has been used to aid in the installation of rubber sealing components in fluid delivery since before you and me put together.
    Water and oil donít mix, Todd. When an oil based substance is used as a lubricant on the inside diameter of a hose to aid in installation, it creates a film that will cause an incomplete seal when clamped. Water being a heavier substance and under pressure will push that oil based film out and cause a leak.


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  4. #3304
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    Mar 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by MontuckyFried View Post
    I like your style! Solid plan. I'll reach out to the dude. It's about 80 miles away. No biggie but I'll need a ride in case I end up taking it home so prolly can't go til Thursday. Needs smog tests where he is so maybe why the fair price. No smog checks in my hood tho! And yeah, no worries about selling cats here either AFAIK.

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    Those are direct injection and known for having carbon deposit issues ok n the intake valves so be aware. I think there are diy solutions for it other than the walnut shell blasting shops offer. My aunt has one and they drive like a gocart !! Hers is around 05ish but only has 25k miles. I have told her DO NOT SELL TO ANYONE BUT ME ....

  5. #3305
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    uTardedland
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    Quote Originally Posted by MontuckyFried View Post

    Also found an '05 Mini Cooper S with only like 130K for $3500. Possibly bad cats (or O2 sensors) but is in way better shape. That's a fun car but I'd probably be tempting fate with that one. Turbo goes bad and I'm screwed on the value. SO many issues with the Coopers but at least they're damn fun to drive... When they're not bankrupting you with repairs that is.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using TGR Forums mobile app
    Got one of those for our daughter 8 months ago. $3k, 95k miles.
    She decided to see how hard a curb actually is and after jacking it up, appears to have bent the lower control arm. Itís throwing a P1498 code too. Beyond what i can do. Letís see what this is about to cost

  6. #3306
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    924
    Quote Originally Posted by mcphee View Post
    Water and oil donít mix, Todd. When an oil based substance is used as a lubricant on the inside diameter of a hose to aid in installation, it creates a film that will cause an incomplete seal when clamped. Water being a heavier substance and under pressure will push that oil based film out and cause a leak.

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    So all silicone in a can is oil based?

  7. #3307
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    Mar 2019
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    1,190
    Make your point, nerd.


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  8. #3308
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    Dec 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by simple View Post
    If you want a wrecked car to fix get a copart account and bid with the rest of the scrappers. You never know what you will find.
    Here's a 488 for free...
    https://www.copart.com/lot/69328151/...ny-long-island
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  9. #3309
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    Jan 2006
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    San Juan Islands, WA.
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    There's a product made just for hose assembly, I have a bottle from Yamaha but most OEM manufacturers have a similar product or a recommendation.

    Name:  hose lube.jpg
Views: 145
Size:  16.7 KB

  10. #3310
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    Mar 2009
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    If there really is interest in the whole hose assembly lube question just PM timber. If I remember right he has a petroleum background and knows all kinds of shit about dyno vs. synthetic as in use astro glide for prison luv not vaseline or don't make fried chicken with mobil1 synthetic... Some really good real life do's and don't.

  11. #3311
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    Mar 2019
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    Yea, I really fucked up by categorizing all silicones as oil based and now I got a Todd on my ass about it. Which is the 2nd time heís got all cunty about silicone here. My bad, I guess Iíll have to consider the pedants in my advice. My point still stands is that a shade tree mechanic needs to make sure that coolant hose assembly aids be water soluble and the most readily available home solution is dish soap.


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  12. #3312
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    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
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    For general use (like putting grips on bike handlebars) I've used soap or hair spray depending on the rubber composition and what it will be coming in contact with in the future. I don't often use silicone or teflon, I usually use lube specific to the purpose.

  13. #3313
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    Mar 2009
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    Hmmm, I guess I've been doing it wrong for about 40 years. My choices were either straight spit or chew spit for just about everything.

  14. #3314
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    Mar 2019
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    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    For general use (like putting grips on bike handlebars) I've used soap or hair spray depending on the rubber composition and what it will be coming in contact with in the future. I don't often use silicone or teflon, I usually use lube specific to the purpose.
    The Toddís of the world would be proud!

  15. #3315
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    Apr 2004
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    Southeast New York
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    I dunno, being an idiot AND not knowing what the fuck I'm doing, I usually figure that I'm good enough at ruining shit already that I don't need to make a bigger mess by using something that will dissolve or corrode the parts I'm working with. Dumb but not that dumb... Well, maybe

  16. #3316
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    Mar 2019
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    1,190
    Give yourself some credit, youíre wrestling a monster most DIY guys have nightmares about. You might be having nightmares about it too but youíre facing them. Good on you. And just so you know, those brittle plastic bits youíre worried about breakingÖpro mechanics will probably break them too.


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  17. #3317
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Moose, Iowa
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    7,356
    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    I actually ordered one of those cameras a little while ago figuring it might help.


    I like the dish soap idea. Then when it leaks again it will be self cleaning

    Well yeah, I'm partially trying to avoid all of the broken plastic bits and vacuum hoses that are likely to break during disassembly and reassembly making it take five times as long while I wait for more parts. The shop that was so anxious to take my money to do it seems to have changed his mind as he looked into it so, other than having it towed to the LR Indy and probably costing a few $k more than estimate because of old broken shit, it's coming down to me making it work.

    Someone posted this pic for me though and if it's the hose seen it can't be accessed on both sides but the longer one underneath can. From feeling around back there though I still think it's either one of those elbows or possibly one of the small hoses that go to the throttle body. That would actually be the easiest because it's fully exposed.
    This is a gross overthink imo.

    I use straight Vaseline from the jar in the bathroom. 100k on the Subaru since all hoses and the other shit went back together and no issues. Without that hack it would be just f f f f f f f fuck.

    Fuel line loosener clamps from harbor freight might be helpful also

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  18. #3318
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    Sep 2010
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    Tejas
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatnslow View Post
    Those are direct injection and known for having carbon deposit issues ok n the intake valves so be aware. I think there are diy solutions for it other than the walnut shell blasting shops offer. My aunt has one and they drive like a gocart !! Hers is around 05ish but only has 25k miles. I have told her DO NOT SELL TO ANYONE BUT ME ....
    Right on. Thanks for intel. I might pop up and go see it tonight if I can coordinate. Supposedly has a stack of maintenance records, but as with anything BMW related is simultaneously good AND scary.

  19. #3319
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    Mar 2019
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    1,190
    Quote Originally Posted by uglymoney View Post
    This is a gross overthink imo.

    I use straight Vaseline from the jar in the bathroom. 100k on the Subaru since all hoses and the other shit went back together and no issues. Without that hack it would be just f f f f f f f fuck.

    Fuel line loosener clamps from harbor freight might be helpful also

    Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Tapatalk
    BOLD!


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  20. #3320
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    Sep 2010
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    Tejas
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    Quote Originally Posted by uglymoney View Post
    This is a gross overthink imo.

    I use straight Vaseline from the jar in the bathroom. 100k on the Subaru since all hoses and the other shit went back together and no issues. Without that hack it would be just f f f f f f f fuck.
    LMAO. That's my move too. Been just fine for me as well.

  21. #3321
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    Mar 2019
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    It says external use only on the jar, fellas. Lol


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  22. #3322
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
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    14,890
    Quote Originally Posted by fatnslow View Post
    If there really is interest in the whole hose assembly lube question just PM timber. If I remember right he has a petroleum background and knows all kinds of shit about dyno vs. synthetic as in use astro glide for prison luv not vaseline or don't make fried chicken with mobil1 synthetic... Some really good real life do's and don't.
    What you guys lube your hoses with is a personal preference.
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  23. #3323
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    Sep 2010
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    Tejas
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    And NOW this thread is proper PR material. Thanks for teh lulz, guys.

  24. #3324
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    Jan 2006
    Location
    San Juan Islands, WA.
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    I learned in Volvo Penta school Vaseline is the recommended method to install needle bearings, It's sticky enough to keep them in place while placing them in the race and disappears once the oil is warm. I always kept a jar on the shelf above my workbench and it was asked about more than once.

  25. #3325
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Posts
    1,190
    OEMs are getting pickier and pickier about assembly aids. Canít just use any old grease for keeping needle bearings, thrust washers, shims, etc. in place during assembly these days. I think we have 4 or 5 different approved assembly greases available for different oils and oil additives to be used in the component due to contamination control guidelines. But these are OE specs to attempt a perfect environment since weíre in the age of remote fleet monitoring and regular fluid sample intervals to prediagnose wear and predict when a component will need a rebuild.


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