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  1. #3726
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    9,856
    The tires had to come off the extra wheels because two of them are slightly bent and make the car shake so I bought another set. The replacement wheelset I picked up had a pair of lightly used Nokians that I ran for almost 30k and now it's time to put the 10k mile tires from the bent wheels on the good ones. The bent ones will now head off to get straightened, then I'll restore and paint them before they become the primaries again when these tires wear out.

  2. #3727
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    9,856
    Today I learned how easy it is to change the pads in 4 pot Brembos. Pop the pin and the pads just slide out (with a bit of persuasion). Seating all 4 pistons equally is another thing but I figured it out. I forgot to pop the reservoir cap off before I started and when I pushed the pistons back in the second one a bit of fluid forced its way past the cap and came out. The level is perfect now so no problem there but did I damage the seal on the cap when the fluid went by it?

    This morning it threw a P0172 code, rich bank 1. I noticed a few days ago at very low speed under load it's pinging a little. I have no idea what kind of miles are on the plugs but that used to be where I'd start. Is that still the same? I always run 93/premium.

  3. #3728
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Gaperville, CO
    Posts
    5,373
    Spent the last week wrenching every night on this. Often til midnight or later. Yesterday afternoon we crossed the finish line after some 2300 miles of rallying from Rhode Island to North Dakota.

    Lots of firsts...adjusting an external valve train, rebuilding band and drum brakes, replacing chains (vehicle is a chain drive) and mounting tube tires on split rims. Plus lots of other stuff...daily oil and water, repacking bearings, greasing suspension, cleaning / re-gapping spark plugs....

    Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #3729
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    PNW
    Posts
    6,890
    Haha that is awesome, and insane.

  5. #3730
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Gaperville, CO
    Posts
    5,373
    Quote Originally Posted by Norseman View Post
    Haha that is awesome, and insane.
    There's a reason our team won the perseverance award. We stand no shot of winning the time race, finishing is always the goal.

    The bus we roll the support/beer crew across the country end is also old enough to qualify for the rally -- a 1973 Crown. Learned to smash gears on a RoadRanger, w-shift 10 speed this week as well.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  6. #3731
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Warm parts of the St. Vrain
    Posts
    2,589
    Quote Originally Posted by doebedoe View Post
    There's a reason our team won the perseverance award. We stand no shot of winning the time race, finishing is always the goal.

    The bus we roll the support/beer crew across the country end is also old enough to qualify for the rally -- a 1973 Crown. Learned to smash gears on a RoadRanger, w-shift 10 speed this week as well.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Rad!!! Co drivers chatting everybody up, letting kids crawl on the truck and then missing the start times as a matter of course will accumulate penalties too I suppose. Fucking ALF with, what, 10 liters Thead lol. What a riot that must be!

    I seen where those dudes ran a 30s Rolls and it was ďboringĒ because it never broke. Ha!

    Funny my grandparents had a schoolie blue bird about the same era also a flat nose like that bus. 8L cat V with a 5 speed. My uncle drove that thing up scenic 7 in the ozarks from Louisiana several times. No PS IIRC. Lol.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    If we're gonna wear uniforms, we should all wear somethin' different!

  7. #3732
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Orangina
    Posts
    8,180
    Quote Originally Posted by doebedoe View Post
    Spent the last week wrenching every night on this. Often til midnight or later. Yesterday afternoon we crossed the finish line after some 2300 miles of rallying from Rhode Island to North Dakota.

    Lots of firsts...adjusting an external valve train, rebuilding band and drum brakes, replacing chains (vehicle is a chain drive) and mounting tube tires on split rims. Plus lots of other stuff...daily oil and water, repacking bearings, greasing suspension, cleaning / re-gapping spark plugs....

    Click image for larger version. 

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    And....../thread.
    "All God does is watch us and kill us when we get boring. We must never, ever be boring."

  8. #3733
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Gaperville, CO
    Posts
    5,373
    Quote Originally Posted by Jong Lafitte View Post
    Rad!!! Co drivers chatting everybody up, letting kids crawl on the truck and then missing the start times as a matter of course will accumulate penalties too I suppose. Fucking ALF with, what, 10 liters Thead lol. What a riot that must be!

    I seen where those dudes ran a 30s Rolls and it was “boring” because it never broke. Ha!

    ...
    Yep -- the rolls was replaced by the Alf. It only didn't finish once--threw a rod, blew off on of the "manhole" valve covers--and sent a 5" diameter piston out. But the crew wanted to finish in a no windshield convertible so they bought an old Mercedes and took an angle grinder to the a/b/c pillars and got across the line a few days later. That was before I was officially part of the family and team.

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    I was the "rooki" this year.

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    The ALF (American La France) is just under 10L in this 4 cyl version. Owner/driver also has a 6 cyl version...i've driven them back to back and the 4 is way more fun. Takes about 5 gal of oil, and loses about 1/2 gal a day as it's a total loss oiling system. But on the whole the drivetrain was really reliable this trip. A little issue with the diff but we chalked that up to not having the recommended lubrication in there. (We used the heaviest gear oil we could find -- the shipment of beef tallow didn't arrive in time before the race.)

    The driver/navigator grew up in North Dakota / Western Minnesota so this year was a homecoming. Next year it finishes in CO where the driver/owner now lives so that finish should be a riot too. The last day lunch stop will be in Salida, finishing in CO Springs. Just ask for change for a nickel and there's plenty of beer on the bus for ya.

    And yeah, no PS on the bus either. But honestly pretty damn pleasant to drive at 55-60 on a highway. And you get really good at rev-matching downshifts in that thing. The bus' urinal got a big upgrade this year from a funnel mounted to the wall to a proper install.

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    FWIW...A bunch of other teams don't love the WTFers. We drink too much, don't take the "rally" part seriously (hey...we still finished midpack and got 2 aces), listen to music too loud and smoke dope. Just to piss'em off I'm going to try and find us a beer sponsor for next year. Went through 41 cases of beer this trip. Not counting whatever was consumed in local establishments. And the 7 bottles of scotch.

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    Last edited by doebedoe; 06-27-2022 at 02:41 PM.

  9. #3734
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    9,856
    I need to figure out why it's throwing a P0172 code, Rich - Bank 1. I changed the air filter and cleaned the upper intake and dumped a bottle of that Jectron stuff in to clean the injectors. It's running much better but still throwing the code. Is it an 02 sensor like the auto parts store guys keep suggesting? On my UG the 02 sensors show nearly the exact same number all the time. It mostly pops either on startup or while idling and twice when I rolled onto the throttle heading into a mild climb. I picked up a bottle of Catclean that I can put in after I burn off a few more gallons if y'all think it will help to clean the cats, if not I'll return it because I can think of better ways to spend $30.

  10. #3735
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    2,406
    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    I need to figure out why it's throwing a P0172 code, Rich - Bank 1. I changed the air filter and cleaned the upper intake and dumped a bottle of that Jectron stuff in to clean the injectors. It's running much better but still throwing the code. Is it an 02 sensor like the auto parts store guys keep suggesting? On my UG the 02 sensors show nearly the exact same number all the time. It mostly pops either on startup or while idling and twice when I rolled onto the throttle heading into a mild climb. I picked up a bottle of Catclean that I can put in after I burn off a few more gallons if y'all think it will help to clean the cats, if not I'll return it because I can think of better ways to spend $30.
    Try cleaning your MAF and take a close look at your freeze frame when your car set the P0172. IF it's a failing cat that cleaner ain't doing shit for you. You can also switch bank 1 and 2 O2 sensors and see if the error moves with the sensor and help identify the failing sensor. IF it's the cat you can always try the ghetto method by throwing in an o2 extender. DO NOT FUCK UP THE o2 senor leads while trying to remove it.

  11. #3736
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Tahoe-ish
    Posts
    2,298
    What are my options for improving the AC on my '82 Winnebago with 6.2L GM diesel? It works but isn't bet powerful, so I don't think it needs major repairs.

    Is there an R12 compatible refrigerant that can be added? Or must i do the full R134A conversion?
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  12. #3737
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    2,406
    Quote Originally Posted by climberevan View Post
    What are my options for improving the AC on my '82 Winnebago with 6.2L GM diesel? It works but isn't bet powerful, so I don't think it needs major repairs.

    Is there an R12 compatible refrigerant that can be added? Or must i do the full R134A conversion?
    Call around and see how to to just charge your system with R12 would be , might only be a couple hundred bucks IF it's still partially charged. Also check your drive belt for the compressor, I had an old car where a loose/old drive belt just wasn't driving my compressor.
    Conversion to R134A isn't too complicated in a working system. Basically remove all oil from compressor, refilll with compatible oil, r/r dryer and expansion valve, vacuum and recharge. Here is a Eric the Car Guy video about it. I did it on an old Subaru about 20 years ago WITH replacement of the compressor in about 6 hours and this was before Youtube showing step by step. Keep in mind I'm no master mechanic.
    Lot of O'reillys has vacuum pumps and manifold gauges available for use without charge.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B1VG1OHEfAM

  13. #3738
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
    19,411
    Quote Originally Posted by fatnslow View Post
    Lot of O'reillys has vacuum pumps and manifold gauges available for use without charge.
    Caution on the loaner tools at O'Reilly's -- they have a short window of free usage time, like 48 hours, after which you own it. Autozone does the same type of loaner tool program, but IIRC you get 90 days.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  14. #3739
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    9,856
    That MAF sensor was black with carbon and krusty with pollen The stuff that came off on the (white) towel I had under it was nasty. Hopefully that solved the problem. The live data number is just a few tenths above target so I'll run it and see if it comes down a bit more. The o-ring seal was also dusty and not sealing so that could have been a problem too. Of course I ran into old crumbly plastic issues and had to epoxy/drill/tap one of the screw threads but that's about expected, right?

    @montucky - That jectron stuff is kickass. Thanx. I just keep finding more liqui moly fluids that I really like.

  15. #3740
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    driving past the Stop and Shop
    Posts
    3,020
    New to me Ď01 Tundra w/184k needs a few items and fixes to be the first class beater it was meant to be. 4.7L engine runs as smooth as any vehicle Iíve ever owned. Shifts fine and drives nice. And to top it off the frame was replaced and looks great.

    Already swapped the ignition lock, fiberglassed a bunch of holes in the bed and cleaned up the headlights to get a sticker.

    So what does it need? A fair number of small to medium issues were surprisingly neglected. Leaky power steering lines, leaky transfer case seal (front shaft), disconnected rear o2 sensors (no codes though), minor EVAP code (p0446), needs new battery (current one is branded Bass Pro Shop). Tailgate latch rods are missing and arenít available without buying the latch and rod assembly (160 for the set). A/C doesnít work but Iím ok with that. Oh and the stereo sucks and Iím not sure if it gets double digit miles per gallon.

    So project Tundra begins. Iíll stop by to bitch and moan periodically.

  16. #3741
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    907
    Posts
    14,320
    Quote Originally Posted by Obstruction View Post
    New to me ‘01 Tundra w/184k needs a few items and fixes to be the first class beater it was meant to be. 4.7L engine runs as smooth as any vehicle I’ve ever owned. Shifts fine and drives nice. And to top it off the frame was replaced and looks great.

    Already swapped the ignition lock, fiberglassed a bunch of holes in the bed and cleaned up the headlights to get a sticker.

    So what does it need? A fair number of small to medium issues were surprisingly neglected. Leaky power steering lines, leaky transfer case seal (front shaft), disconnected rear o2 sensors (no codes though), minor EVAP code (p0446), needs new battery (current one is branded Bass Pro Shop). Tailgate latch rods are missing and aren’t available without buying the latch and rod assembly (160 for the set). A/C doesn’t work but I’m ok with that. Oh and the stereo sucks and I’m not sure if it gets double digit miles per gallon.

    So project Tundra begins. I’ll stop by to bitch and most periodically.

    AGM batteries are coming down in price and last twice as long as conventional. Grid batteries are also deep cycle by nature, so an accidental deep discharge or two won't leave a scar for the rest of the battery's days like it will with conventional starting batteries.

    Bass Pro sells all sorts of boat, rv, atv, golf cart batteries, of different techs. If your battery has any pro rata left and certain stars align, you can sometimes catch a sale.

  17. #3742
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    1,189
    ^^ I am a fan of crimping new leads and putting in a group 31, if it will fit. $100 plus $20 for terminals compared to the $300-400 for AGM. Probably overkill for a beater project.

  18. #3743
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    driving past the Stop and Shop
    Posts
    3,020
    Iíll check out the AGM I havenít looked at them in a few years. My go to is an interstate BLEM (blemished) from the interstate store $85 w/ a 2 year warranty. The Bass battery looks ok but it only has a 550 cold crank amp rating and spec for the truck is 760 and thats gonna matter where we live.

  19. #3744
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    907
    Posts
    14,320
    Quote Originally Posted by Obstruction View Post
    I’ll check out the AGM I haven’t looked at them in a few years. My go to is an interstate BLEM (blemished) from the interstate store $85 w/ a 2 year warranty. The Bass battery looks ok but it only has a 550 cold crank amp rating and spec for the truck is 760 and thats gonna matter where we live.
    An AGM will typically have much more juice at 0f than a conventional of nominally higher rating. A red Optima G35 with 720 CCAs will outdo any 880 CCA conventional at 0f.


    I put a pair of G65 Diehard Platinum [rebranded Odysseys] in my F350 in 2014. After 8 Ak winters they still turn the starter faster than stock and still have 2 years of warranty left.

  20. #3745
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    West Coast of the East Coast
    Posts
    7,377
    I have used a Blue Top deep cycle style Optima in my Jeep for a while now.
    I just recently learned that the Yellow top is the same exact deep cycle battery without the extra threaded posts for marine application. The warranty is a year longer on the yellow top, and they are cheaper. Whoops.

  21. #3746
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    9,511
    Welp, faaaaaaaaak. Looks like my new C30 didn't last long. Overheated the other day, pulled over immediately and it was hissing and pissing coolant. Of course it was a day that was like 110 and I had kids with me, so that sucked. Just had it towed to my mechanic and let them deal with it. Was broken heater hoses (not unusual at this age/miles), they fixed it quick and got it back. Anyway, fast forward a couple days and I've lost coolant and car had trouble starting. Smoking. Misfires. Sludge under oil cap and some shmutz in the coolant reservoir. Craaaap. Anyway, I think I'm dealing with a blown head gasket and possibly worse, something like cracked cylinder liners or head. I dunno. Anyway this car is effed until further notice.

    Considering the astronomical prices of engine repair, how crazy would I be to attempt to tackle this job myself? I want to at least pull off the cylinder head to inspect for cracks, warping, or whatever. Will just have to park it and take my time with it I guess. Thoughts?

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using TGR Forums mobile app

  22. #3747
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    In your Dreams
    Posts
    556
    If fixing cars is your hobby, go for it.
    Seeker of Truth. Dispenser of Wisdom. Protector of the Weak. Avenger of Evil.

  23. #3748
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    9,511
    Quote Originally Posted by Cisco Kid View Post
    If fixing cars is your hobby, go for it.
    Not the hobby I want right now since I don't have time, but I might be forced to attempt due to lack of funds. Haha. Will be a good TR for this thread if nothing else. Wish me luck!

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using TGR Forums mobile app

  24. #3749
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    9,856
    Bummer dude. My transmission may be on the way out and it may be too expensive to be worth fixing.

  25. #3750
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    15,319
    Props to Montucky and GL for doublehandedly keeping this thread alive.
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

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