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  1. #1501
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    315
    I killed a tire while fucking around in Colorado a few weekends ago.

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    Those tires were gonna be done by the end of the year anyway, so I went ahead and got a new set. A little wider and more aggressive. I guess the only wrenching I did was add a set of 1.25" spacers.

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  2. #1502
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Watching over the valley
    Posts
    2,792
    I'm procrastinating going downstairs to put the new wheel bearing in on my hundie....
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    sent from Utah.
    sigless.

  3. #1503
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Watching over the valley
    Posts
    2,792
    Fun part is hammering in the outer races into the hub. I put the outer races into the freezer for a few hours, and before installing them, I hit the hub with a torch for a minute or so. While they don't exactly fall right in, it was way easier than getting the old ones out. Click image for larger version. 

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    sent from Utah.
    sigless.

  4. #1504
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Watching over the valley
    Posts
    2,792
    Took care of the weeble wobble up front. Need to get some new rear brake shoes in there. Manana.
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    sent from Utah.
    sigless.

  5. #1505
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    4,269
    My 100-series needs a “birthday” on its IFS, per trustworthy mechanic. Been putting that off, because not urgent in my mind, though I guess it’ll help with the rack. Just starting to develop occasional squeaks at 240k. I don’t have time to stumble through it anytime soon, don’t have good flat “shade tree” spot at home, or tools for some of it. Also, not clear to me where to start/prioritize or possibly piece together the work.... advice/thoughts/feelings?

  6. #1506
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Der Town
    Posts
    6,422
    Send me a pm with your digits and we can talk about it. Probably just needs some new bushings and stuff

  7. #1507
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Watching over the valley
    Posts
    2,792
    Quote Originally Posted by bodywhomper View Post
    My 100-series needs a “birthday” on its IFS, per trustworthy mechanic. Been putting that off, because not urgent in my mind, though I guess it’ll help with the rack. Just starting to develop occasional squeaks at 240k. I don’t have time to stumble through it anytime soon, don’t have good flat “shade tree” spot at home, or tools for some of it. Also, not clear to me where to start/prioritize or possibly piece together the work.... advice/thoughts/feelings?
    On mine with 235k, it was feeling pretty loose. New sway bar bushings and end links tightened it up, but the ifs arms are still loose. Much bigger job to replace those. Loose front wheel bearings can make it feel real looks, and lead to bigger problems if not addressed. Pop the front end in the air and grab the wheel at 10 and 2 and try to wobble the wheel. If it has play, likely due for new front wheel bearings. If you are getting drive line knock on the front, a little is normal in the driveshaft at that age, but you may be due for a new bushing in the front diff mount. I haven't tackled that on mine yet. New steering rack bushings also helped a ton. Seriously.
    Here are videos showing before and after with new rack bushings.

    Before....
    https://youtu.be/EuzbAoIot0Q

    After...
    https://youtu.be/FIj5QSJczbA

    sent from Utah.
    sigless.

  8. #1508
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    4,269
    Thanks for the responses. I need to go back and look through my notes.

  9. #1509
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Watching over the valley
    Posts
    2,792
    Finally got around to fixing the cracked lenses on the drivers side headlight. I must have driven through a gravel storm on the freeway, cause I got a big windshield chip, and both headlight lenses cracked, one with a bonified hole in it. So got a used headlight, polished the glass, and put it in. When I bought the car, it came with a couple of new smoked corner lights. I'm usually not too keen on the smoked look, but decided what the hell, let's see, so I threw them in.
    Also, failed emissions yesterday at idle, high on hc, so misfire at idle. With the AC on, it was fine, but with ac off, yep, there was a miss. In the spring I had a bad CCV or pcv, and replaced it, but had not changed the plugs. On this car the CCV sits at the back of the intake manifold and dumps the gunk into the intake right above the intake horns for the back two cylinders. Changed all 8 plugs, and wouldn't you know it... both of the back 2 plugs were fouled. Misfire is gone. Sitting on the sofa at the emissions place now. Oh yeah, cats on the car were gutted by some clown, so there is that. Fingers crossed.
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    sent from Utah.
    sigless.

  10. #1510
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Watching over the valley
    Posts
    2,792
    Fail. Wtf.

    sent from Utah.
    sigless.

  11. #1511
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Posts
    712
    Selling a 78k original mile, 5 speed, 2.8 Quattro A4. Real clean inside and out. Needs tires and a few minor things to be perfect. Lot's a service records since new. I'm the second owner. Timing belt, rear main seal and more done @ 75k.

    Holler for more details. Located in the Bay Area, CA.

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  12. #1512
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    In the shadow of the wasatch
    Posts
    2,850
    Fuck! Went to change oil on my 06 tundra and hood latch cable broke. Fuckassmutherfucker
    Bunny Don't Surf

  13. #1513
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Shadynasty's Jazz Club
    Posts
    8,254
    Changed the oil, filter and air filter in my Tacoma. No pics cause I was cooking dinner at the same time. Sometimes I miss working on cars...until I have to change the oil in my Tacoma.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  14. #1514
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sandy, Utah
    Posts
    11,263
    Quote Originally Posted by TheFugitive View Post
    Fuck! Went to change oil on my 06 tundra and hood latch cable broke. Fuckassmutherfucker
    mines been broken for a long time. I have to manually pull the actual cable from inside the cab and reset the latch by hand. I have the part at the local shop just need to get it over.

    Your e brake locked up yet? Common issue on the 06. Also have an odd knock that I think might be steering column related as ive replaced pretty much the entire front suspension.
    http://www.firsttracksonline.com

    I wish i could be like SkiFishBum

  15. #1515
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    In the shadow of the wasatch
    Posts
    2,850
    Quote Originally Posted by Skidog View Post
    mines been broken for a long time. I have to manually pull the actual cable from inside the cab and reset the latch by hand. I have the part at the local shop just need to get it over.

    Your e brake locked up yet? Common issue on the 06. Also have an odd knock that I think might be steering column related as ive replaced pretty much the entire front suspension.
    Crank on the cable inside the cab and nothing. Pulled on cable while banging on hood above latch no good. Accidentally broke the grill off (fukmutherfucker) trying to get at everything. Gave up after that but the latch body is exposed so I will give er hell tonight after work.

    E Brake rusted inopearable couple years back made me fail inspection. Replaced the brake mechanism and did a rear brake job been G2G ever since
    Bunny Don't Surf

  16. #1516
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sandy, Utah
    Posts
    11,263
    Quote Originally Posted by TheFugitive View Post
    Crank on the cable inside the cab and nothing. Pulled on cable while banging on hood above latch no good. Accidentally broke the grill off (fukmutherfucker) trying to get at everything. Gave up after that but the latch body is exposed so I will give er hell tonight after work.

    E Brake rusted inopearable couple years back made me fail inspection. Replaced the brake mechanism and did a rear brake job been G2G ever since
    I have to do the ebrake I did back brakes last year and been having it loosened and lubed in an attempt to keep it going, but looks like I have to fix that one too. Still a damn fine truck though.
    http://www.firsttracksonline.com

    I wish i could be like SkiFishBum

  17. #1517
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    3,841
    When it’s hot and or engine heat / the metal expands and increases friction especially if a little rusty. Wait till early morning, open it, and douse the mechanism with penetrating oil, then open and close it a few times.

  18. #1518
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Bozone
    Posts
    434
    Some neat tricks here. I might have done a few.


  19. #1519
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    6,706
    The AC drain hose on my car is apparently clogged and I can't figure out how to get it off the condenser to blow it out. It goes pretty far in rather than sliding over an easily seen, exposed nipple. I can get to the bottom, not easily but it does stick out about 3" from the bottom of the car. I'm afraid to stick anything in there and jam the clog further in. I'd ignore it and bail on the ac but that also means no defroster and that's no good when you live in the EC humid zone and having water pouring into the passenger footwell is also no good.

  20. #1520
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    907
    Posts
    10,168
    Can you pinch that drain line, to bust up der cloggin? Can you skeet sum Purple Juice or sumthin up in there?

    If the clog is floating your coil in water, then having that 3/8" algae & durt clod pushed up in the plenum next to the coil is gonna be less of a problem overall.

  21. #1521
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1,336
    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    The AC drain hose on my car is apparently clogged and I can't figure out how to get it off the condenser to blow it out. It goes pretty far in rather than sliding over an easily seen, exposed nipple. I can get to the bottom, not easily but it does stick out about 3" from the bottom of the car. I'm afraid to stick anything in there and jam the clog further in. I'd ignore it and bail on the ac but that also means no defroster and that's no good when you live in the EC humid zone and having water pouring into the passenger footwell is also no good.
    Try using some weed eater string from the bottom, then try a shop vac to suck out loose crap.

  22. #1522
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    In the shadow of the wasatch
    Posts
    2,850
    Quote Originally Posted by Djongo Unchained View Post
    Bumpers! Thanks for the heads up DJ. Talking to my Merc guy. Might have to roadtrip up. She have title?
    Bunny Don't Surf

  23. #1523
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    slc
    Posts
    10,702
    Any advice on what to do about this? This is at the corner of the bed of my truck. It appeared to be some minor surface rust until I started prepping it to paint it. There's a structural member behind the body panel here and the body panel has been rusting from the inside out at the contact with the structural member. All four corners of the bed have this to some degree but this is the worst spot.

    Fill the hole with bondo then rustoleum over? All I want is to stop or slow down the progression of the rust and look OK to a passing glance. It's a 17 y.o. truck so spending a lot to fix it doesn't make much sense, but it's also in excellent shape otherwise and I plan on owning it for a while. Click image for larger version. 

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  24. #1524
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Posts
    1,330
    Quote Originally Posted by TheFugitive View Post
    Bumpers! Thanks for the heads up DJ. Talking to my Merc guy. Might have to roadtrip up. She have title?
    I expect so.

  25. #1525
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Orangina
    Posts
    7,144
    Quote Originally Posted by Dantheman View Post
    Any advice on what to do about this? This is at the corner of the bed of my truck. It appeared to be some minor surface rust until I started prepping it to paint it. There's a structural member behind the body panel here and the body panel has been rusting from the inside out at the contact with the structural member. All four corners of the bed have this to some degree but this is the worst spot.

    Fill the hole with bondo then rustoleum over? All I want is to stop or slow down the progression of the rust and look OK to a passing glance. It's a 17 y.o. truck so spending a lot to fix it doesn't make much sense, but it's also in excellent shape otherwise and I plan on owning it for a while. Click image for larger version. 

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    I fixed much, much worse with an angle grinder, sand paper, Bondo and a few coats of spray paint. I'm talking RPG sized holes in the old plow truck. Saw it the other day, four years later, and it's still holding.

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