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  1. #3201
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    Tejas
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    11,859
    Quote Originally Posted by fatnslow View Post
    https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...llation-55530/


    If you can approximate where the bearing and/or bushing are get a long straw close to it I bet a quick few squirts of silicone might quite it down. Cold squeaks usually the bearing having a bit of wear and the grease needs to heat up to fully lubricate. These damn things all get filthy over time. Removal, lube, cleaning usually takes acre of it. If you're adventurous you can gently remove the bearing cover and new grease and replace the seal.
    Ha! Just as I thought. Depending on the year of course, the LR and Volvo motors ARE the same thing. https://www.europaparts.com/hvac-blo...-lr016627.html Good to know about the possibility of the lube option, but personally if I'm going through all the heartache of pulling it, I'm just going to replace it with a new one. Just a bit North of $100 + the special removal tool, but the part itself isn't too outrageously priced thankfully. Can't imagine what the LR or Volvo dealers would want for the job, though! Definitely $$$$$$$

  2. #3202
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,269
    That Volvo fan replacement is f'd up...
    It doesn't seem difficult but painstakingly long for something that should take about 10 minutes. Was the engineer behind that a brother in law of a dealership manager ? It must be a 4-6 hour book rate, around $1000...

  3. #3203
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    11,767
    Yeah as I dove down the rabbit hole the solution that fatnslow threw out a little while ago is the right one. Apparently, the outer fan bearing is exposed to the elements and it needs a shot of silicone every now and then. It looks like a 15 minute job to lift the cowl so you can see it then give it a spin while you're shooting some silicone in there and call it good. Yeah, it's a 5 hour job at the dealer so at (most) dealers that would be about $900 in labor now The XC70 is a much more involved job than the 60 thankfully and everyone wrongly thinks it needs to be replaced because it sounds like crickets after 2 or 3 years.

    So my wheel deal is turning out to be a bit of a hassle. I should have brought a caliper with me but it seemed so simple... The guy was a moron and didn't know that they came off an XC90 not 60 and the hub bore is 3.7mm bigger. Finding hub centric rings this size, 67.1 od to 63.4 id, is challenging at best so here comes another well intentioned hack. Making parts There's one local machine shop that might have a better solution but I don't know if I can get them to do anything in under a month, even something that should only take them a few minutes.
    Last edited by gravitylover; 01-12-2022 at 08:11 PM.

  4. #3204
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    Jan 2009
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    1,007
    Silicone is not a bearing lubricant

  5. #3205
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    19,215
    Quote Originally Posted by Todd Zander View Post
    Silicone is not a bearing lubricant
    It certainly isn't.
    Is it radix panax notoginseng? - splat
    This is like hanging yourself but the rope breaks. - DTM
    Dude Listen to mtm. He's a marriage counselor at burning man. - subtle plague

  6. #3206
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    11,767
    Quote Originally Posted by Todd Zander View Post
    Silicone is not a bearing lubricant
    Other than removing the dashboard so you can pull the motor to pull the bearing seal up to get some grease in there what else might work if silicone is no good? In a TSB Volvo put out in 2011 that was their solution. I guess it's cheaper than a 5 hour warranty job. Big surprise, right. For a few minute solution that will probably keep it quiet for at least a few months, it seems like a decent way to go.

  7. #3207
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,269
    Quote Originally Posted by Todd Zander View Post
    Silicone is not a bearing lubricant
    I understand, just seeing if it can spray in the region and quite it down. I wouldn't recommend shooting oil based stuff all over the blower motor and cage, it'll just get slung around all over them collect more debris.
    To do it right will require removal and essentially repacking the sealed bearing. It was just a quick and easy suggestion to buy some time. Maybe it's some dirt/dust build up that might get freed with a bit of help.

  8. #3208
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    1,007
    Quote Originally Posted by Todd Zander View Post
    Grab a zoom spout oiler for $10 and quiet-er down. Works well to lightly lubricate lots of small blowers and bearings and such.
    Bronze oil-lite bearings need oil, not silicone.

  9. #3209
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    11,767
    Ya know, I have a couple of oils that would work, don't think I have bronze oil though. I guess with a long enough hose that can be put in the right spot is a better idea. Cool. Done.

  10. #3210
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    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
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    21,126
    I'd use a "dry" bike chain lube - something that dries to a waxy finish.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  11. #3211
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    driven way past the Stop and Shop
    Posts
    3,068
    Update on my Prius catalytic converter theft saga.

    The cat was stolen about 4 weeks ago. Fortunately even though it’s a high mileage beater we had comprehensive (fire, theft, glass) insurance on it. The ins company offered a $1600 payoff less $500 deductible (we dropped that to $300 the lowest deductible they offer) so we had $1100 to spend. The adjuster specified a Walker aftermarket cat pipe combo and a denso o2 sensor, which is what I had been looking at. Those priced out at $415 on Amazon. I added a $160 cat shield. So parts came to $575.

    We have got a really good muffler shop nearby that does custom work and they agreed to install those parts that we purchased for $550 (still a very nice profit for them - if it takes a tech more than 2 hours to do that job they would fire his ass tout suite). That price also included hardware and a donut/gasket direct from Toyota because the shop said the aftermarket stuff sucks. They also installed the shield for that price.

    It was towed to the shop by AAA so no $ there.

    Total price $1075. Plus almost a month in which the car wasn’t available and the aggravation of purchasing the parts, setting up the repair and the tow in addition to worrying about when the scum will strike again.

    Bottom line - fuck thieves!
    Damn, we're in a tight spot!

  12. #3212
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Posts
    2,100
    Quote Originally Posted by Todd Zander View Post
    Silicone is not a bearing lubricant
    Quote Originally Posted by MakersTeleMark View Post
    It certainly isn't.
    easy fellas, this isn't rocket surgery.

  13. #3213
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Posts
    2,100
    Quote Originally Posted by Obstruction View Post
    Update on my Prius catalytic converter theft saga.

    The cat was stolen about 4 weeks ago. Fortunately even though it’s a high mileage beater we had comprehensive (fire, theft, glass) insurance on it. The ins company offered a $1600 payoff less $500 deductible (we dropped that to $300 the lowest deductible they offer) so we had $1100 to spend. The adjuster specified a Walker aftermarket cat pipe combo and a denso o2 sensor, which is what I had been looking at. Those priced out at $415 on Amazon. I added a $160 cat shield. So parts came to $575.

    We have got a really good muffler shop nearby that does custom work and they agreed to install those parts that we purchased for $550 (still a very nice profit for them - if it takes a tech more than 2 hours to do that job they would fire his ass tout suite). That price also included hardware and a donut/gasket direct from Toyota because the shop said the aftermarket stuff sucks. They also installed the shield for that price.

    It was towed to the shop by AAA so no $ there.

    Total price $1075. Plus almost a month in which the car wasn’t available and the aggravation of purchasing the parts, setting up the repair and the tow in addition to worrying about when the scum will strike again.

    Bottom line - fuck thieves!
    $25 ahead! treat yo self!

    Fuck thieves

  14. #3214
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    11,767
    #Fuckthieves!!

    Solved. Gotta love awesome little machine shops in a guys basement. I couldn't sleep knowing that I dropped the ball on this so I sat there researching for hours how to come up with such a simple part as quickly as possible this morning and came across this guys website. If the pictures were real it looked like he's a guy that "gets it". I called before he opened to leave a callback message and he answered, told me to come down and we'd make it happen. Less than 2 hours from the first phone call to the finished product. It's nice to have found this guy 10 minutes from home, now I have a go-to solution for so many things. Stoked.

  15. #3215
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    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
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    Quote Originally Posted by mcphee View Post
    easy fellas, this isn't rocket surgery.
    Right! haha

  16. #3216
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Posts
    2,100
    ^hell yea!


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  17. #3217
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    tahoe de chingao
    Posts
    848
    I was out in the boonies yesterday beating up my old f-150 when the aftermarket radio died. I installed it myself so I figured I had knocked a connection loose or something was shorting out. Initially went out after a HARD bump. The unit came back on after another bump. It would run for about 5 minutes and then turn off. Back of the thing was hot. Once I let it cool down it would start up again. Most concerning, though, is that it wouldn't turn off when i pulled the key out of the ignition.

    Inspected everything in depth this morning. All wiring is intact, and no other function on the truck is messed up when I pull the key out of ignition. I got a voltimeter out and have 12v from the battery, and 12v from the ignition switch when in accessory or running, and .01V (or 0V) when the key is not in the ignition. This is at the pin that plugs into the radio.

    Doubt it matters but it's a sony xav-ax150.

    Before I replace the fuckin thing, what am I missing? If I have 12v keyed at the harness, but it's not turning off, I've got to think something inside the unit is shorting out, right??

  18. #3218
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    1,510
    Bad relay would be my guess.

  19. #3219
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
    21,126
    How did you do the wiring connections? (butt splice, solder,?)

    Does the head unit have a fan in the back? Does it run?

    Replaceable external fuse on the back of the head unit?
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  20. #3220
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    tahoe de chingao
    Posts
    848
    Butt spliced connections. Again there is correct voltage at the harness connector for keyed 12v

    No fan in unit

    Replaceable fuse is intact but I replaced not anyway this morning - no change


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  21. #3221
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    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
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    Hmm. That about does it for my ideas.

    Weird that it's getting really hot. I wonder if it internally shorted. Old unit?

    Single DIN? I think I actually have a new single DIN CD player in a box somewhere here. IIRC Bluetooth too. I think I picked it up cheap for use in the old truck, but never bothered installing it, then sold the truck.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  22. #3222
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    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    11,767
    Something isn't grounded right

  23. #3223
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    1,007
    Whats the your alternator putting out? Ie battery voltage while driving.

  24. #3224
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    907
    Posts
    15,645
    Sruffian your pos Sony might have buggered your column switch?

  25. #3225
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    tahoe de chingao
    Posts
    848
    Normal battery voltage when driving

    No other functions that run off the column switch are impacted, and again the pin for keyed 12v at the harness for the radio has the correct voltage

    Looks like I can locally pick up the same radio tomorrow w/ a good return policy. Before chasing down grounds, etc, I think i'm just gonna pop a brand new one onto the harness and see if it works w/ the keyed 12v appropriately. If not, bigger problem!

    Thanks, Chup - you're too kind! let me make sure it is in fact the radio and not wiring and i'll circle back w/ you

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