Results 1,826 to 1,850 of 5831
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05-23-2020, 08:40 AM #1826
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05-28-2020, 08:57 AM #1827
Anyone on Archoil products?
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05-28-2020, 09:06 AM #1828Banned
- Join Date
- May 2007
- Location
- Sandy, Utah
- Posts
- 14,410
Anyone using the "ceramic" based spray on coatings?
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05-28-2020, 09:16 AM #1829
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05-28-2020, 09:48 AM #1830Banned
- Join Date
- May 2007
- Location
- Sandy, Utah
- Posts
- 14,410
yeah exterior. I pulled trigger on "The Last Coat" as it seems to do well in all the "independent torture tests" Cant hurt anything. Some dont like the look it gives. Watched a vid from a detailed who went through the "looks" of different products from trad wax to the newest ceramics. The Last Coat is a mix of ceramic and something else, easier to apply. The true ceramic products are harder to apply. Most interesting thing was he mentioned you could use the ceramic and ceramic based products and then top coat with trad wax for the "softer" look and extended protection. Will report back after application.
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05-28-2020, 11:10 AM #1831
I've had their 8100 grease on The Legend's front wheel bearings and front end for a year and a half.
The grease is slightly off-white and has a nice consistency, like Vaseline - tacky, but doesn't make long strings like Lucas.
I just re-greased the ball joints and steering linkage last week, 1st since last September. The old grease that came out of the boots was just as nice as the new going in. Not as pretty, but still the exact same consistency. Shit gets everywhere, which is something you have to respect in a grease.
hBN is legit, with real science backing it as an EP additive, and the only 2 other ingredients in 8100 grease are fumed silica and Durasyn 148, a pure PAO Group IV synthetic oil. All in all. it's not nearly as noxious as moly grease, and hexagonal boron nitride is a better EP additive than molybdenum disulfide, and still works great as a wheel bearing lube [which high moly grease doesn't].
Their AR9100 oil additive noticeably smoothed out the old injectors on the 7.3 [before I swapped them out]. Does it do more than that for $45 extra per oil change? I don't know.
I like that they don't oversell their stuff.
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05-28-2020, 11:46 AM #1832
Right on highangle. I agree they don’t seem to oversell and over claim.
Have the 9100, 6200, and 6400d on the way. There’s a pretty good bundle savings on amazon - so said F it.
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05-28-2020, 01:08 PM #1833
I have no exp with their fuel additives*, but their grease seems to prevent my wheel bearings from burning up so far, and they tell you everything that's in the stuff. Pretty much same with AR9100.
Liqui Moly, a somewhat reputable and international lubricant manufacturer, also makes a hBN oil additive called Ceratec, which is supposedly good stuff too. They've sold it for years and product liability suits haven't made them quit yet, so...there's that going for it at least, amirite?
Additives: "Nano" is the future of lubricants, probably. I'm going to give you a little advice. There's a force in the universe that makes things happen; all you have to do is get in touch with it. Stop thinking...let things happen...and be...the ball. Graphene as a by-product of hydrogen fusion reactors? Total consciousness and carbon nanotubes? Maybe. Did I say AR9100 was "Noticeable" ? Yes...Yes I did. [$50 smile]
*MSDS is often good info, esp for catalysts, etc
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05-28-2020, 01:40 PM #1834
Have been changing my own oil for a short two years now and kicked off using Liqui Moly. Been real happy. People on Rennlist were high on it and several of those wrenchers also faithfully run the Archoil 6200 fuel additive. When researching, there was a slough of info on the anti-friction 9100 you ran, and how they made diesels happy. I’ve got a TDI 3.0 and concerned about carbon buildup.. want to be proactive.
Anyone have a take on doing diesel purges? As in; close loop on fuel lines and clean injectors. Eyeing liqui moly’s product/process
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05-28-2020, 01:56 PM #1835
Hate to be the only chirpy bird, but HotShot's Secret Diesel EXTREME!!!! is akshully quite lubricious and cleansing. Also comes in 'bout a 20oz bottle that EXTREMEs 40 gallons of dizzle fu-el 4pep, so may be similar chemical nightmare inside the bittle? Similar to Archoil 6400, that is?
All HSS's other shit scares me and smellz much like snek oil from this distance. Hates the snek oil! Hates it!
...If you want to elude carbon in a diesel cylinder, get it hot on a regular basis and cook that shit into light floaty isotopes... Just like break-in.
I don't know anything about your engine's cooling capacity, but there is probably a good hill somewhere close to you where you can put it under load for a while and get things good and hot.
To cool it off, engine braking gets you high boost and high compression in an un-fuelled cylinder. That's good for rings, as are hill climbs
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Don't lug it and work your transmission to an early grave, but you want to yellow-line your EGTs for a few minutes, if you have a gauge, in a high boost situation. Like you are a semi snatching a bulldozer up a hill.
Last edited by highangle; 05-29-2020 at 08:03 PM.
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05-28-2020, 06:58 PM #1836
I'm not a diesel guy, but gas injector / engine cleaner has 2 types - those that come in a plastic bottle, and those that come in a metal can. Anything that is supposed to remove petroleum deposits but comes in a plastic bottle is junk.
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05-29-2020, 07:32 AM #1837
Oh they put junk in metal cans too...
Last edited by highangle; 05-29-2020 at 09:23 PM.
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06-02-2020, 03:34 PM #1838
We have a 2008 Honda Fit where the rear hatch has been stuck shut for probably years now. It has a poorly designed latch handle bracket that rusts out and the handle becomes worthless. As the Fit had gotten relegated to wife's commuter over the years and we had bigger vehicles to carry stuff I never fixed it.
Today I did some research and found that the bracket is a big pain in the ass to replace, so I disconnected the rear latch handle, rerouted the cable to the inside, and hooked it up to a little pull I built from a protective cap that had been on a bike axle for shipping. I got lucky and the plastic was just the right color and so it looks like it's meant to be there. I was randomly really excited about that good luck.
It works smoothly. It's obviously still less good than having the latch work from the outside, but it's pretty easy to reach in over the rear driver side seat and pop it open. Way better than having a useless door and it cost me maybe an hour of my time and 0 dollars.
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06-02-2020, 11:07 PM #1839
I had 2 chicks in the bag tonight, but I didn't even want to pull out the right tools for the job.
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06-10-2020, 01:53 PM #1840
I think I found a new project. The GM e92 PCM has been cracked, so you can swap gen-5 motors into modern Chevies now, including the LT4 and LT5 (6.2L supercharged Z06 and ZL1 engines, 650 and 755 hp, respectively). 755hp in a 2015 4WD Colorado crew cab seems like something I need in my life. LT5 + 8L90 + Atlas, trussed Dana M220 rear/M200 front, 33" tires with fiberglass fenders and bedsides, long travel front suspension, link and coilover rear. I'd like more suspension travel with minimal lift. I'll have a Raptor killer for half price, and it'll fit in a parking space at the grocery store!
Inspiration here: https://www.autoblog.com/2020/04/01/...20-horsepower/
That guy's build thread here: https://www.coloradofans.com/threads.../#post-4600889
Current work here: https://www.instagram.com/p/B_qsFT8AGr3/
My hill to climb would be building a module that would shift the Atlas and masquerade as the stock GM transfer case shifter on the CAN bus.
While my Blazer (K5, cammed/bolt-on LQ4, 4L80e, Atlas2) is a ton of fun, especially with the top off, I'm not a fan of daily driving it. I want AC and quiet. I'm too old to daily drive something without creature comforts.
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06-10-2020, 03:40 PM #1841
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06-11-2020, 04:46 PM #1842
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06-14-2020, 12:28 AM #1843Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2009
- Posts
- 3,269
Anyone know how to identify a CV axle that is sloppy enough to cause vibrations whole accelerating ? My pimpin minvan has decided to have a sexy front end shake around 60 when I accelerate ONLY. Thought it might have been tires out of balance but just had new set of shoes put on and no change.
I lifted the front and took a look at ball joint, lca tie rod end and wheel bearing and things are pretty tight. Both the inner cv joints have a bit of grease that has leaked out but the boots are intact. When I move them up/down there is a bit of at and slight clicking noise on the inner joints. Basically both sides sound/feel the same. Being the cheap bastard that I am trying to spend only half as much by trying to pick the right side. It's a 2005 Odyssey with 166k.
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06-16-2020, 04:13 AM #1844Registered User
- Join Date
- Apr 2004
- Location
- Southeast New York
- Posts
- 11,766
Not auto but it's a combustion engine problem - Using the lawnmower the other day it just shut off. Now it'll start but won't run. I changed the plug and have the air filter off so it's not that either, I also ran a bit of carb cleaner through and it ran for a minute but then quit when that burned out. Carb needs a rebuild? How do I know what carb it is? I can't even figure out what motor it is. None of the local lawnmower places are open to consumers yet, they're commercial accounts only so they won't even talk to me much less let me bring it in.
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06-16-2020, 08:40 AM #1845
Gas line or filter in the tank plugged up? Broken spring on the carb?
Fuel, air and ignition. Since it runs for a little when you prime it, must not be getting proper fuel.
I was given a mower that the guy said wouldn't run once. The load of shit I cleaned out of the gas tank was amazing.
Must be some type of identifying numbers somewhere on the engine.
Can't believe you guys are still so locked down. Run it across the border.
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06-16-2020, 10:44 AM #1846Registered User
- Join Date
- Apr 2004
- Location
- Southeast New York
- Posts
- 11,766
Yeah I need to figure out how to pull the fuel tank and line because I filled it when I thought it just ran out of gas. Either that or roll over to the neighbors bushes and turn it on it's side.
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06-16-2020, 12:28 PM #1847
Can of starter fluid aimed at carb will run it if it is gas. It does sound like something clogged up somewhere. Last summer I replaced the carb on my Honda lawn mower engine in 30 minutes. It was $27 on Amazon and came with new sealing gaskets. It was super easy to figure out which carb I needed.
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06-16-2020, 07:21 PM #1848
Radiator poppin season is on us, tell your feeble friends leaving on road trips who haven’t checked fluid levels for a couple years.
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06-16-2020, 08:14 PM #1849
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06-16-2020, 11:16 PM #1850
You will easily get 15 years out of that.
Is it radix panax notoginseng? - splat
This is like hanging yourself but the rope breaks. - DTM
Dude Listen to mtm. He's a marriage counselor at burning man. - subtle plague
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