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  1. #1801
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    The Mayonnaisium
    Posts
    10,467
    According to Click and Clack.

    Bad Ball Joint / Seized Tie Rod: eeeehonk eeeehonk
    Bad Wheel Bearing: vubb vubububub, vubb, vubububub

    Got it?

    Too bad the links are broken.

  2. #1802
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Moose, Iowa
    Posts
    7,926
    Quote Originally Posted by Mazderati View Post
    According to Click and Clack.

    Bad Ball Joint / Seized Tie Rod: eeeehonk eeeehonk
    Bad Wheel Bearing: vubb vubububub, vubb, vubububub

    Got it?

    Too bad the links are broken.
    Lol.

    The Subaru wheel bearing I just replaced right side made the classic growling sounds at speed and with wheel turn at speed. The wheel bearing on the other side changed a few months ago was just completely fucked and it was almost silent. Just vibration and huge 12/6 movement. It was on the side my stepson smacked with a barrier wall and it failed shortly thereafter or at the time but went undetected for a bit...I was stunned at how quiet it was when it went to hell. Lesson learned. They can have a stealth silent death that shows up with vibration and wheel play.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    Last edited by uglymoney; 05-18-2020 at 07:30 PM.

  3. #1803
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Missoula
    Posts
    2,104
    Yeah, I've seen a wheel bearing that had so much play it destroyed the abs sensor and tone ring, and you could feel it move while driving, but it didn't really make any noise. Also just changed one that was really really loud but turned fairly well by hand and had no play. Think the latter one was due to the last person getting a little overboard tightening the axle nut. To spec (there are 3-4 different ones depending on the type/location/bolt pattern, with the wheel off the ground, with a new nut, is important.
    Last edited by jamal; 05-18-2020 at 09:34 PM.

  4. #1804
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    100'F and Muggy
    Posts
    604
    My money is on both wheel bearing and CV. Both known issue / wear items, and both cheap on Subes. Getting the knuckle off can be a little annoying, I'd just do both and call it a day.
    The LCA can move around at full droop if a bushing is destroyed badly enough.

  5. #1805
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
    21,126
    Not sure if Subaru is relevant here - this is on a 2000 GMC Sierra 3/4 ton pickup. Steering knuckle does not need removal in order to replace hub unit or replace half shaft.

    CV half shafts on these turn whenever vehicle is in motion, whether in 2WD or 4WD.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  6. #1806
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    100'F and Muggy
    Posts
    604
    Ack, my bad, misread somewhere. NVH diag commonalities still apply.

  7. #1807
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Moose, Iowa
    Posts
    7,926
    Quote Originally Posted by tripice351 View Post
    Ack, my bad, misread somewhere. NVH diag commonalities still apply.
    I started it with no regret. Everything in life can be related back to car repairs if you think about them enough. Subaru vs GM truck wheel bearings for sure.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  8. #1808
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    11,859
    Quote Originally Posted by uglymoney View Post
    I took the flywheel in to get resurfaced and I had them replace the pilot bearing also since I didn't really feel like bungling that job. I had to go to the machine shop anyway to get a wheel bearing pressed so figured I might as well kill two birds with one stone. Literally the only time I have been inside a store in a month and a half. The flywheel has never been touched at 245k so it needed it, it has been grabby since 15k. Looks sharp. Everything is ready to get bolted back together.

    Attachment 327503

    Attachment 327504

    Attachment 327505

    New Sachs stainless steel sleeve over the aluminum shaft the throw out bearing rides on. I wish this had been done at 132 when the clutch was replaced the first time, but I wasn't involved in that since I had taken it to a transmission shop to get the input shaft bearing replaced. There was a lot of debris inside the case, so I spent a bunch of time sucking up all the metal shreds from the springs that broke off the old plate and cleaning everything up with degreaser and brake cleaner. Greased the pivot points and the sleeve and replaced the fork after this shot was taken. Looks sharp!

    Attachment 327506
    Nice work! I'm always impressed with your car skills, ugly. You've inspired me a lot to keep on keeping on with my old rides, which has saved me a TON of money. You're also giving me inspiration to maybe pick up a very used hybrid someday since you've proven time and time again you can wrench on those too.

  9. #1809
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Moose, Iowa
    Posts
    7,926
    Thanks MF! I'm a total hack but given enough time it is fun to figure stuff out and get through projects. Our 4 vehicles have 670k miles between them and it is in my family gene pool to keep stuff running until it is dust. I have second cousins (my dad's brothers kids) and I literally have nothing else in common with except really terrible hand writing and driving cars for as long as possible and keeping them running well while doing so.

    It goes without saying that Basinbeater and Jamal among others here are heads and shoulders above my skill set and I'd say they keep me inspired.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    Last edited by uglymoney; 05-20-2020 at 07:54 AM.

  10. #1810
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Wasatch Back: 7000'
    Posts
    12,966
    A german, russian and costa rican discuss the repair of a british fuel pump. What could possibly go wrong?
    Look at the still photo and you will get a glimpse of where the fuel pump(s) is located. It is taken from the rear of the vehicle. The people are sitting/posing behind the front seats and in front of where the rear seats would ordinarily be located.
    The video is only 20 seconds long, but it gives you an idea of the conversation.



    Click image for larger version. 

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    “How does it feel to be the greatest guitarist in the world? I don’t know, go ask Rory Gallagher”. — Jimi Hendrix

  11. #1811
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Access to Granlibakken
    Posts
    11,184
    Recall on Harbor Freight jack stands. https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a3...llapse-recall/

    Not that we’d use that junk in the first place amirite?

  12. #1812
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
    21,126
    Quote Originally Posted by frorider View Post
    Recall on Harbor Freight jack stands. https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a3...llapse-recall/

    Not that we’d use that junk in the first place amirite?
    I have two sets of their jack stands. Went out and checked the part numbers, because the newer ones I have look just like the recalled grey ones. Different number. Safety third!
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  13. #1813
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    11,766
    I need to check the numbers on mine too.

  14. #1814
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Moose, Iowa
    Posts
    7,926
    My numbers on the 6 tons look good. Sounds like they will be testing more models as time and covid allows

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  15. #1815
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Montrose, CO
    Posts
    4,618
    Quote Originally Posted by frorider View Post
    Recall on Harbor Freight jack stands. https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a3...llapse-recall/

    Not that we’d use that junk in the first place amirite?
    Thanks for posting. This is the first I heard anything about this. Will have to check my stands tonight. Timely post, as I will probably be putting my camper trailer on stands to do a bunch of work in the next few weeks.

  16. #1816
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Vermont
    Posts
    1,484
    Yes, thanks for posting on the Jack stands. I'll check mine later tonight. Finally bought a set last year so I could be safer. Now I don't feel bad for not using them this past weekend to swap tires on both vehicles.

  17. #1817
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    The Mayonnaisium
    Posts
    10,467
    Spent the money on a set of flat-top Escos and the welds looked awful. Checked into a set of US Jack ($$$) jack stands and reviews also ding their welding. I'm convinced all off-the-shelf jack stands are suspect.

  18. #1818
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    the ham
    Posts
    13,370
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  19. #1819
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Montrose, CO
    Posts
    4,618
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  20. #1820
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    The Mayonnaisium
    Posts
    10,467
    Heh. Wheels and cinder blocks really were the answer all along. And a '68 Malibu convertible.

  21. #1821
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Montrose, CO
    Posts
    4,618
    Well looks like I'm safe. Or as safe as non-recalled harbor freight jack stands can be.

  22. #1822
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
    21,126
    My truck front hub/bearing assembly was delivered late today.

    Gonna install it tomorrow using Harbor Freight jack stands, HF hydraulic jack, HF air hose, HF breaker bar... and some better quality tools too.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  23. #1823
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
    21,126
    Update: used many Harbor Freight tools, along with a better quality impact wrench and several impact sockets. Repair completed and did not die from HF use. Air tools are awesome.

    Old hub came out fairly easily, new one went in easy, no issues. Installed a Moog brand unit bearing hub, more expensive than the cheaper options ($150 ish vs $75 ish), but I don't want to replace this again, and shouldn't have to so long as I own this truck.

    Test drove around the neighborhood. The clicking in tight turns is gone, so that was the hub, not the CV half shaft. Haven't driven at highway speed yet, so will have to see if the vibration is fixed too, but I bet it is.

    Nice thing about GM trucks - parts are cheap, trucks are common, so there are plenty of write ups and videos online on how to fix them.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  24. #1824
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    The Mayonnaisium
    Posts
    10,467
    Nice work.

  25. #1825
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    100'F and Muggy
    Posts
    604
    Well done sir, that's what I get for trying to diag over the internet without hearing it. Sometimes noises can be some of the hardest concerns to diag even when in person and easily reproduced.

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