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  1. #4051
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    West Coast of the East Coast
    Posts
    7,453
    They are made of unobtanium. 1st thing to get pulled out of most F150-250 and Broncos of that era.
    Shipping alone is absurd and risky, so if you don't find one locally, you are pretty much out of luck. Worst case scenario, if this breaks again, I can patch it from the top and then use a glue on replacement that looks pretty good. You just lose the stock dash pad look, as they reproduced it as part of the mold.
    https://www.carparts.com/details/For...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

  2. #4052
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
    19,761
    I think I'd be looking at a carpeted dash pad as the fix for that...
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  3. #4053
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    10,123
    Or at least a cool Mexican blanket.

  4. #4054
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    The Mayonnaisium
    Posts
    9,821
    These guys were featured on Leno's YT channel recently: https://www.justdashes.com/

    A dash cover flipped upside down may help serve as a mold of sorts and keep pieces in place while melting and gluing back together.

    LMC has that HVAC bezel for $25. https://www.lmctruck.com/1980-96-for...ard-components

  5. #4055
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    9,947
    Solid trim repair!!! Well done!

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using TGR Forums mobile app

  6. #4056
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Montrose, CO
    Posts
    4,080
    Quote Originally Posted by warthog View Post
    They are made of unobtanium. 1st thing to get pulled out of most F150-250 and Broncos of that era.
    IIRC, the mounts to the body break off which is why they get snagged so often. Nice work, I definitely don't have the patient for that tedious of a project.

  7. #4057
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    West Coast of the East Coast
    Posts
    7,453
    Quote Originally Posted by snowaddict91 View Post
    IIRC, the mounts to the body break off which is why they get snagged so often. Nice work, I definitely don't have the patient for that tedious of a project.
    This project is cake. Prepping and coating the frame area where the gas tank goes back in has been much worse. The dash is like 110% more sturdy just in the welds I did in 2 hours. Really one of the easier projects, just bit of a jigsaw puzzle.

  8. #4058
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    West Coast of the East Coast
    Posts
    7,453
    Quote Originally Posted by Mazderati View Post
    Yup, black only though. If it comes to it, I can prime it and SEM it, but except for the attachment point, it is in decent shape. The trim piece and dash pad cover the fix well.

    Speaking of the trim piece, I accidentally leaned on it and cracked it right behind the Eddie Bauer emblem. Cracked the tab off too. Took me 2 minutes to repair. That would have been a rig job with glue prior to owning this hot stapler.

  9. #4059
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    4,458
    Big projects are mostly done. Did diesel fuel filter (easy but stinky) and hatch struts today. Trip to the junkyard got me nothing which is abnormal but a nice day to wrench.
    Last edited by simple; 09-24-2022 at 04:55 PM.

  10. #4060
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    10,123
    So lets talk additives. Recently we talked about the Liqui Moly Jectron and nobody had problems with it. When I got this thing it was sluggish and getting sorta shitty mpg so I put a bottle in, it helped but not much. It also had a tick that sounded like a sticky lifter so when I changed the oil a few days ago I went with a quart of Lucas something or other and Valvoline high mileage 5W30 and also added a small bottle of Lucas injector cleaner. It's actually running nice and smooth now and getting the mpg I expected but it's still lumpy at idle so plugs and coils are up next. It also has an unhappy tranny, 2 fluid changes and new filter helped a lot but it still felt overly slushy so I put in a 2oz tube of Lubeguard Instant Fix and boom it feels (almost) right so I think I'll add another.

    I know not everyone is into additives but I think it's worth dumping certain things in before tossing parts at it. What sez the collective?

  11. #4061
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    15,936
    I think I might invest in a good OBD scanner. In for a penny, in for a pound--so I'm thinking of getting a bidirectional one. Anybody have one and can comment on how useful the bidirectional features are?
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  12. #4062
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    2,562
    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    So lets talk additives. Recently we talked about the Liqui Moly Jectron and nobody had problems with it. When I got this thing it was sluggish and getting sorta shitty mpg so I put a bottle in, it helped but not much. It also had a tick that sounded like a sticky lifter so when I changed the oil a few days ago I went with a quart of Lucas something or other and Valvoline high mileage 5W30 and also added a small bottle of Lucas injector cleaner. It's actually running nice and smooth now and getting the mpg I expected but it's still lumpy at idle so plugs and coils are up next. It also has an unhappy tranny, 2 fluid changes and new filter helped a lot but it still felt overly slushy so I put in a 2oz tube of Lubeguard Instant Fix and boom it feels (almost) right so I think I'll add another.

    I know not everyone is into additives but I think it's worth dumping certain things in before tossing parts at it. What sez the collective?
    Throw in a set of oem/correct plugs and wait on the coils. Don't add anything more to your tranny, possibly one more drain/fill. Don't fuck around too much trying to turn your aging chrysler minivan into something it never was when it rolled off the assembly line. If it starts/drives/stops call it good.

  13. #4063
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    2,562
    Quote Originally Posted by Timberridge View Post
    I think I might invest in a good OBD scanner. In for a penny, in for a pound--so I'm thinking of getting a bidirectional one. Anybody have one and can comment on how useful the bidirectional features are?
    Those can be tricky and mfg dependent. what are you working on ?

  14. #4064
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    15,936
    Nothing at the moment--but as I keep my cars for quite a long time, switches, motors etc, tend to be issues I've encountered along the way and the ability to troubleshoot them might alleviate the trial and error of buying a new switch, only to find out the motor is bad, etc. etc. And they can do a bunch of other tests as well.
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  15. #4065
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
    19,761
    Quote Originally Posted by fatnslow View Post
    Throw in a set of oem/correct plugs and wait on the coils. Don't add anything more to your tranny, possibly one more drain/fill. Don't fuck around too much trying to turn your aging chrysler minivan into something it never was when it rolled off the assembly line. If it starts/drives/stops call it good.
    This.

    But two other thoughts for gravity: 1) IIRC, Chrysler transmissions used to have adjustable bands - this is an adjustment for a pro, but shouldn't take long or cost too much. 2) Seafoam works pretty well as a top end cleaner in an engine, but be careful not to hydrolock the engine - pull a vacuum line while idling and slowly pour a little stream of Seafoam into the vacuum hose, let the engine stumble but not stall. Run half a can or so into the engine. Turn off the engine, wait 15 min, reconnect that vacuum line. Start engine, drive around with heavy throttle, smoke out your neighbors. May need to change spark plugs after this, so if you're planning a plug change, do this before.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  16. #4066
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    2,562
    Quote Originally Posted by Timberridge View Post
    Nothing at the moment--but as I keep my cars for quite a long time, switches, motors etc, tend to be issues I've encountered along the way and the ability to troubleshoot them might alleviate the trial and error of buying a new switch, only to find out the motor is bad, etc. etc. And they can do a bunch of other tests as well.
    I-carsoft and Autel sells MFG specific bidirectional scanners. You might get better reviews from enthusiast sites, maybe even find a decent app that will pair with a bluetooth obd dongle.

  17. #4067
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    2,562
    Gravity, IF that car has a replaceable external fuel filter replace it.

  18. #4068
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    9,947
    Quote Originally Posted by Timberridge View Post
    I think I might invest in a good OBD scanner. In for a penny, in for a pound--so I'm thinking of getting a bidirectional one. Anybody have one and can comment on how useful the bidirectional features are?
    Before I invested in a Vida/Dice setup for my Volvos, I was REALLY happy with my BlueDriver. Most capable OBD setup for the money. The app is freaking great!!! Running live data while driving is $$$.
    https://us.bluedriver.com/pages/bluedriver

  19. #4069
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    10,123
    I carsoft has a few units that have brand specific software and diagnostics already programmed in. Those tend to be among the more preferred units in a lot of enthusiast forums and groups.

    @fnslow- not trying to make it anything it isn't but I want it to be as good as it was supposed to be. More than anything though I really dislike a mushy, choked feeling throttle response and slow trannies. It's really not a bad road trip rig and with no rust at all, I think it's worth the effort to refresh it. Yup, OE NGK plugs and there's updated coils and I'll probably do the EGR too since I'll already have the upper intake off. Yeah I need to figure out the fuel filter, Thanx for reminding me.

  20. #4070
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Orangina
    Posts
    8,297
    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    This.

    But two other thoughts for gravity: 1) IIRC, Chrysler transmissions used to have adjustable bands - this is an adjustment for a pro, but shouldn't take long or cost too much. 2) Seafoam works pretty well as a top end cleaner in an engine, but be careful not to hydrolock the engine - pull a vacuum line while idling and slowly pour a little stream of Seafoam into the vacuum hose, let the engine stumble but not stall. Run half a can or so into the engine. Turn off the engine, wait 15 min, reconnect that vacuum line. Start engine, drive around with heavy throttle, smoke out your neighbors. May need to change spark plugs after this, so if you're planning a plug change, do this before.
    This is the way.
    "All God does is watch us and kill us when we get boring. We must never, ever be boring."

  21. #4071
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    9,947
    Got my head back from the shop. She's gorgeous!
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    Block's deck cleaned up and pistons cleaned:
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    New head gasket is on:
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    Head bolts torqued and angled to yield:
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    And a million other seals, gaskets, and misc "while I'm in there" stuff replaced. Bout to install camshafts now and put the cover on!

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using TGR Forums mobile app

  22. #4072
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
    19,761
    ^^^ Impressive. That's a big project!
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  23. #4073
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Orangina
    Posts
    8,297
    Well done, Montucky! That’s a serious undertaking.

    We got a new plow truck (2005 Chevy 2500HD with a 6.0 and 150k on the clock) and I did the shocks, tie rod ends, pitman and idler arms, front and rear Timbrens and a high output alternator. That was plenty for me.

    Lubrication station is next—everything besides the cooling system and transmission, both of which stayed cool as a cucumber towing a Polaris and a bed full of firewood over the pass.
    "All God does is watch us and kill us when we get boring. We must never, ever be boring."

  24. #4074
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    15,936
    Way to go Austin.
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  25. #4075
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    9,947
    Thanks for the encouragement, fellas. This has been a big undertaking indeed. Half the battle though was figuring out WTF engine was even in this thing. Machinist and I got it figured out via different valve dimensions and measuring piston stroke. What made it tough to confirm though is that VOLVO'S tech specs for the head height was wrong by 2 cm, so I was really stressing out that something was really wrong, BUT thanks to my latest Swedish misadventure, I just so happened to have a spare B5254T12 from 2013 sitting in my driveway. Measured it, examined it, and whaddya know. They're identical! All the technical data from Volvo states it's supposed to be 149ish mm high, so the machinist and I were both scratching out heads as to why the one sitting in front of us was only ~129 high. The engine in my C30 was manufactured December 2012, which means it was out of a 2013 S60. Same as what I recently bought! What a crazy coincidence. At 250hp/266 lb-ft of torque, it ALSO explains why this thing always felt more powerful than C30 specs would have you believe. Means I need to figure out a proper tune though since they have different compression ratios. No local tuners have the capability, though. If I can get it even running to begin with, my plan is to get it on a dyno and monitor engine activity (I have a laptop with the Volvo software), and just get a baseline. Will go from there.

    After getting it running, next step is upgraded intercooler and oil cooler. That may have contributed to running hot over time, but perhaps something else. Maybe just a shitty install from the last person. The block's deck looked like crap (I practically restored factory finish!) and they also didn't even use the Volvo recommended anaerobic sealant for the cam cover. Was goop everywhere inside the cam area. Who knows. I have no clue what I'm doing, but some knucklehead before me knew even less apparently. Haha.

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