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  1. #2176
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    5,001
    Giver an old fashioned italian tune up.

    sent from Utah.
    sigless.

  2. #2177
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    SLC
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    454
    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    If you wanted, you could return the Costco battery just shy of the warranty expiration and get a new one. Rinse and repeat.
    The last straw was when I had to swap out a battery less than a year old for the second time.

    Quote Originally Posted by basinbeater View Post
    Kid is bouncing off the walls, and he is bummed they didn't have the part at the store to fix his car.
    Reminds me of being 15 with a Losi Mini-T and the most dirt nasty fast brushless setup I could find. I broke that damn thing just about every time I charged the batteries, and living in bumfuck meant I had to wait 1-2 weeks for parts to show up in the mail. For some reason there's like half a dozen hobby shops right near my house, and every time I see one I think I should drop in and pick up a lipo setup for that thing and dig it out of a box in my basement.

  3. #2178
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
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    Warm parts of the St. Vrain
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    2,782
    Fun if y’all gunna bit I reckon the dealer saw a 420 and not a 402.

    Anyway I think I got this here on another thread:

    Read codes without scan tool:

    https://youtu.be/DhDzA-6dFm4


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    If we're gonna wear uniforms, we should all wear somethin' different!

  4. #2179
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
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    Southeast New York
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    11,766
    Got it all done. I think that may have gotten me over that job anxiety problem. Looking forward to digging in and getting a bunch of stuff done soon. Of course when you get started is when you realize you need to update some tools and supplies. With jack stands is a 3 or 3.5 ton sufficient on a nearly 6k pound truck? I figure one should never fully be supporting the vehicle so the lighter duty ones should be good, usually you use two and are only supporting half of the vehicle. Am I wrong? I need new stands because the ones I have don't go nearly high enough and neither does my jack.

  5. #2180
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    The Mayonnaisium
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    10,467
    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    Got it all done. I think that may have gotten me over that job anxiety problem. Looking forward to digging in and getting a bunch of stuff done soon. Of course when you get started is when you realize you need to update some tools and supplies. With jack stands is a 3 or 3.5 ton sufficient on a nearly 6k pound truck? I figure one should never fully be supporting the vehicle so the lighter duty ones should be good, usually you use two and are only supporting half of the vehicle. Am I wrong? I need new stands because the ones I have don't go nearly high enough and neither does my jack.
    What was the job? I would go with a 6 ton at that weight. The larger capacity probably means a taller stand, too.

  6. #2181
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
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    Southeast New York
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    11,766
    New rear brake pads and sensor wire and a detailed visual inspection that revealed a few issues. The pads had lotsa meat left but were squealing to the point I couldn't stand it anymore so away they went. Front end work and rear sway links coming up soon.

    What do some of you guys with high clearance and long suspension travel do for jacks and stands? I'd rather not have to spend a lot but the right solutions look like about $400.

  7. #2182
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Montrose, CO
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    4,618
    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    New rear brake pads and sensor wire and a detailed visual inspection that revealed a few issues. The pads had lotsa meat left but were squealing to the point I couldn't stand it anymore so away they went. Front end work and rear sway links coming up soon.

    What do some of you guys with high clearance and long suspension travel do for jacks and stands? I'd rather not have to spend a lot but the right solutions look like about $400.
    Harbor freight floor jack (not low profile) and 6 ton stands (not recalled ones) do the job for me. Wood blocks help in a pinch for certain scenarios.

  8. #2183
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    The Mayonnaisium
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    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    What do some of you guys with high clearance and long suspension travel do for jacks and stands? I'd rather not have to spend a lot but the right solutions look like about $400.
    Straight axles are easy since the common bracket/cradle top jack stands work well. I have a set of 3 ton Esco flat tops that work better IFS/IRS vehicles. It looks like there is a 6 ton version using the same design but under different branding. Not familiar with them but may be something to consider.

    https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

  9. #2184
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
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    LV-426
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    21,126
    Quote Originally Posted by snowaddict91 View Post
    Harbor freight floor jack (not low profile) and 6 ton stands (not recalled ones) do the job for me. Wood blocks help in a pinch for certain scenarios.
    X2 on the HF jack and stands.

    I have the HF low profile jack because it fits under my car. If you don't need the low profile, the standard jack is a little cheaper, and I think reaches a little taller.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  10. #2185
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    11,859
    So I have a sneaking suspicion that the old Volvo has a weak alternator and have been meaning to pick up an alternator/load tester anyway. Anybody have any good suggestions from AMZ that you can recommend from experience? There are a TON of them for cheap. I'd like to keep it under $50 if I can. TONS of them from like $10-20 but they might be junk? I dunno. Back in the day, a voltmeter was all you'd need, or you could just unplug your battery and see if the car'd still run fine, but can't do that any more with all of the electronics and what not. Damn, I hope I don't have to replace my alternator on this car because it is going to be a super sucky job, but at over 180K and 12+ years old, it certainly wouldn't be out of the ordinary either.

  11. #2186
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    Watching over the valley
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    Just toss your meter on the positive battery post to ground. If it reads 13.8-14.1 or so at idle, your alternator is fine. Should be pretty stable if you rev the motor and check as well. Turn bunch of stuff on, should be stable.

    sent from Utah.
    sigless.

  12. #2187
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,269
    +1 on the voltage meter test. If you really want to confirm swing by a chain auto parts store or battery shop and have them use their load tester for free. It'll be a better unit than anything affordable.
    If you do end up needing a alternator go Bosch reman(Rock Auto is usually good for those) and have it tested before you install the unit. If you're really pinching pennies just replace the voltage regulator if the bearing spins OK.

  13. #2188
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    Sep 2010
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    Tejas
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    11,859
    Quote Originally Posted by basinbeater View Post
    Just toss your meter on the positive battery post to ground. If it reads 13.8-14.1 or so at idle, your alternator is fine. Should be pretty stable if you rev the motor and check as well. Turn bunch of stuff on, should be stable.

    sent from Utah.
    Thanks for the tip! Can I detect alternator ripple with a multimeter? The more I think about it, I wonder if my alternators been the source of many electrical gremlins that have come and magically disappeared over the years. Damn Swedes. Haha.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using TGR Forums mobile app

  14. #2189
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Orangina
    Posts
    9,172
    Put a 205* thermostat in the 7.3L plow truck as the original had gotten stuck and I read about performance gains via higher temp t-Stat in older strokers. Seems happier now and if nothing else, the heat is working again. Did hoses, belt, tranny pan gasket and the standard LOF. Also replaced the batteries with Interstate's and replaced the glow plug solenoid. Hoping to get through another few winters on the original tranny. Put in new Mile Marker hubs last spring.

    Otis is purring and ready for winter.

  15. #2190
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    1,951
    Got the dreaded 0420 and 0430 code in my 08 4runner over the last couple months. I’ve been trying hard not to replace the cats as I’m trying to sell it soon and I’ve got 230k on it, but after replacing all the exhaust gaskets its still tripping the codes

    So I get to try to replace the manifold/cat assembly now! So much fun dealing with old rusty exhaust...


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  16. #2191
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    Sep 2010
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    Tejas
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatnslow View Post
    +1 on the voltage meter test. ... If you do end up needing a alternator go Bosch reman(Rock Auto is usually good for those) and have it tested before you install the unit. If you're really pinching pennies just replace the voltage regulator if the bearing spins OK.
    K. I'll use the ol' multimeter today then. Will see what I can figure out. Unfortunately it would appear that Bosch decided to bake the voltage regulator into this one so it's not a replaceable individual component as far as I can tell online. Good thing is on RockAuto, the reman'd Bosch alternators are pretty affordable if I do end up having to go that route. Starting making funky noises yesterday so it could very well be the bearing. Car still runs fine for the most part but OCCASIONALLY it just doesn't have quite enough juice to get started. Haven't had to jump it yet though as it usually starts after a couple attempts. Again, not all the time. Like once every month or two. Replaced the battery earlier this year so that should be fine. Car's had weird battery drain and electrical oddities since like 2014 so that's why I've blown it off for so long. Annoying but hasn't been too much of a problem until recently. Even still, it's not THAT bad. Certainly not worth paying a mechanic the $1800+ I was quoted last time, but might be worth a DIY. Hell, the car's barely even worth that much. Though there's a reason it's such an expensive job. It's gonna suuuuuuuuuck to swap out. Will post a TR if I end up having to tackle it. lol

  17. #2192
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
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    11,766
    Quote Originally Posted by snowaddict91 View Post
    Harbor freight floor jack (not low profile) and 6 ton stands (not recalled ones) do the job for me. Wood blocks help in a pinch for certain scenarios.
    HF doesn't sell jack stands anymore, there's only one left on their website and nothing in the stores. I'm seeing some interesting bottle jacks that double as stands when you flip the lock and they extend to a little over 20".

  18. #2193
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    West Coast of the East Coast
    Posts
    7,737
    If you ever plan on putting a roll in or spray bedliner in, make sure you think about the consequences, and do it right for god's sake.





    Taking it back down to bare metal and using Napa Rust Proof M/D to recoat it smooth and glossy.
    Sound dampening mat after that, so when we put inn the new carpet it is all nice and quiet.

  19. #2194
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Portland by way of Bozeman
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    4,279
    Quote Originally Posted by basinbeater View Post
    Got it all wired up, and did a test circle in the driveway. Hit the track (above the house) in the morning. Kid is bouncing off the walls, and he is bummed they didn't have the part at the store to fix his car.
    Attachment 349052Attachment 349053

    sent from Utah.
    What model is that? I need one of those, badly!

    Quote Originally Posted by YourMomJustCalled View Post
    The boy and I went down that rabbit hole right before the lockdown. That shit is fun!
















    We should probably start a thread.
    Hell to the yes, on all accounts!

    I've now come across two and driven (or is controlled?) And I must have one!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Growing up, I had a Team Associated RC-10T I think? I loved it. So did my brother. I need another.

    Quote Originally Posted by warthog View Post
    If you ever plan on putting a roll in or spray bedliner in, make sure you think about the consequences, and do it right for god's sake.





    Taking it back down to bare metal and using Napa Rust Proof M/D to recoat it smooth and glossy.
    Sound dampening mat after that, so when we put inn the new carpet it is all nice and quiet.
    Gnar! Way to do it right, though.

  20. #2195
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    Watching over the valley
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    That big truck is an Arrma mojave exb. An upgraded roller only version of the ready to run mojave. I already had all the electronics to stick in it. It is fast as shit. It fuckin hauls ass!
    My brother and I had rc10s back in the day, kyosho turbo optima, traxxas cat, clod buster. I had a traxxas slash for a while when I got back into it, but it didn't hold up to the kind of beating we were unleashing on it, so we got an arrma senton6s, and that think is an absolute tank. I was so impressed by it's durability in the hands of my 6 now 8yo, that arrma was the logical place to go for the new one. We also have a losi tenacity db.
    My brother now has an arrma kraton, and a smaller arrma senton 3s for his kid. We take em everywhere. Never know when you are going to find a killer spot.
    Here is a vid of the truck I picked up.
    (Not mine, but this guy beats on his stuff.)
    https://youtu.be/OLNDa9umGkk

    sent from Utah.
    sigless.

  21. #2196
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Greg_o
    Posts
    2,641
    My friend and I both started with Kyosho Raiders and I eventually had a TA RC10 as well. Those were fun times.

  22. #2197
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    West Coast of the East Coast
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    7,737
    Made some good progress on the '95 Bronco project over the weekend.
    Luckily, this thing is pretty clean.

    Here is the tailgate with the body filler all done. Just filled a couple small dents.
    Might as well get it perfect while I am taking the time. Still a couple small dents, but it will be covered with carpet, so I am not going to go too (even more?) crazy.


    Napa Rust Proof M/D- 2nd coat.




    1st coat turned out poorly so I had to re-sand a bit. I thought about doing the backside of the panel 1st, to work out the kinks, but foolishly dove right in. Always trust your gut. This stuff is a rust sealer and prohibitor that is UV resistant. It is base and top coat in 1. It also needs to be thinned, A LOT, to be brushed or rolled. 1st coat I didn't thin at all. It began setting up on the 3rd or 4th brush stroke.

    Also ripped out the carpet in the cab to see what is going on.





    Really happy with the rust situation.




    Back right and middle right- only spots of rust in the entire cab.
    Have 1 or 2 small spots at the base of the door sills and very slight spots by the A pillar- those will get the Ospho treatment and some of the Rust Proof M/D- whatever I can sludge or spray in there. I may use my airbrush to do those tight spots.

    Cleaned up the carpet for now and got the kiddo to pitch in a little.



    I will keep it like this for a little bit while I slowly sand coat the cab. This thing will never rust once I am done with it.



    Pretty cool find under the carpet- original build sticker from the assembly line.


  23. #2198
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    The Mayonnaisium
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    10,467
    Good stuff. The build sheet is cool.

  24. #2199
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    West Coast of the East Coast
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    7,737
    I thought so too. My 13 year old... not so much.
    She was like, what the hell are you talking about?
    My 9 year old will probably find it fascinating. She is a bit more like me when it comes to this stuff.

  25. #2200
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
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    11,766
    I'd spray a clear coat over that sticker and preserve it. Your willingness to strip the interior has inspired me, I need to drop the headliner in the RR for a few reasons and have been hesitant but I think I'll use the upcoming good weather and get it done.

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