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  1. #1376
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    Oct 2010
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    Holy shit those tires look sticky.

    Quote Originally Posted by bodywhomper View Post
    Totally ignorant here, is synthetic that much better than Dino?
    I don't think it's a night and day difference since plenty of engines have lasted forever running regular oil. If you're going to change your oil out ever 5k miles then you'd be fine.

    Synthetic lasts longer, my VW has 10k mile oil change intervals. And people have doubled that and the oil testing showed lots of life left in the oil.

    Where it really shines is at the temperature extremes. It often gets to -30C where I live and synthetic flows much better at those temperatures. And it's less likely to fall apart at high temps so if you're towing or you have a turbo I'd go synthetic

  2. #1377
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    Quote Originally Posted by bodywhomper View Post
    Totally ignorant here, is synthetic that much better than Dino? I understand the time savings of doing changes less frequently. Would consider changing all cars to synthetic. My other 2 cars are over 100k also. Im not planning to replace them anytime soon.
    If you have a turbo synthetic for it's ability to handle higher heat compared to traditional oil. Lot's of anecdotal evidence from the last 20 years staying 10 k oil change intervals isn't a good idea.

  3. #1378
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    An older car that was designed to run on Dino may start consuming oil or leaking if you switch to synthetic.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  4. #1379
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4matic View Post
    An older car that was designed to run on Dino may start consuming oil or leaking if you switch to synthetic.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    That's true, and it means you should fix the leaks. And use synthetic, then you have happy long life motor.

    sent from some fucking device using some fucking program.
    sigless.

  5. #1380
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    Apr 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by basinbeater View Post
    That's true, and it means you should fix the leaks. And use synthetic, then you have happy long life motor.

    sent from some fucking device using some fucking program.
    Fix the leaks??!!! If I fixed the leaks, I'd have no idea when she was out of oil.

  6. #1381
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    AbcdefghName:  ahhh-very-well-carry-on-then.jpeg
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    sent from some fucking device using some fucking program.
    sigless.

  7. #1382
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    May 2007
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    Sandy, Utah
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4matic View Post
    An older car that was designed to run on Dino may start consuming oil or leaking if you switch to synthetic.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    This is what I have always followed. My Saab guy whom I truly trust switch me off synthetic in a higher mileage 9-5

    Sent from my Pixel 2 using TGR Forums mobile app
    http://www.firsttracksonline.com

    I wish i could be like SkiFishBum

  8. #1383
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    Apr 2004
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    Some of the good high mileage synthetics have additives to seal up minor leaks. When my cars pass 100k I like to switch to the Catsrol Edge High Mileage formula. Does it do any good? I don't know but it makes me feel better.

  9. #1384
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    Bob is the oil guy is your friend.

  10. #1385
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    I was hoping to not dive into another forum (bob the oil guy).

  11. #1386
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    Yeah don't. Ive gone in there, and you get confused because they kind of go around in circles. Oil selection is pretty simple I think.
    Use synthetic whenever possible. It is more durable, and longer lasting.
    Use the viscosity that is specified in the owners manual. Sometimes it is printed on the filler cap.
    The engineers who designed the car know what it needs.

    sent from Utah.
    sigless.

  12. #1387
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    Aug 2006
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    4,232
    Thanks. Appreciate the multiple and consistent recommendations.

    Sent from my SPH-L710 using TGR Forums mobile app

  13. #1388
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    I need an exhaust put on my little convertible. Made me think of this...
    https://youtu.be/zUXow3d3-b0

    sent from Utah.
    sigless.

  14. #1389
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    Sep 2011
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    533

    Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

    Technically not - under the hood exactly.

    But my 94xr250l was blowing a bit of blue, stopping like a bag of mush, and stumbling at full throttle.

    So yesterday she got blown a part.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    New pads all round, new bearings in the front, new jets and the top end is off to the machine shop for some love.

    Ordered a new coil so hopefully that and the new jets will fix up the stumble.

    Now we wait for parts and time.
    Last edited by LHutz Esq; 04-22-2019 at 10:56 AM.

  15. #1390
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    Feb 2005
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    11,467
    You have your own lift!

  16. #1391
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    Quote Originally Posted by bodywhomper View Post
    I was hoping to not dive into another forum (bob the oil guy).
    Quote Originally Posted by basinbeater View Post
    Yeah don't. Ive gone in there, and you get confused because they kind of go around in circles.
    Yeah, I'm not registered there or anything, but there is good info that can be uncovered with a search. The oil filter threads in particular show that there is a wide range of quality-to-crap.

    some oil 101:
    The first number (with the W) is the viscosity (resistance to flow, aka weight) at 0 degrees F, and the second number is the viscosity at 212 degrees F. So the idea there is to choose the first number for the coldest starting temperature expected, and the second number for the condition of the engine i.e. factory spec or wear (confirmed low oil pressure).

    In a conventional (mineral) multi-weight oil the first number is the actual weight of the base oil, and the weight of second number is achieved by adding polymers (known as viscosity improvers) that "thicken" the oil as its temperature increases. In other words, 5W-30 is 5 weight oil that acts like 30 weight at operating temperature. The reason they do it this way is that the base oil from the refinery has a fairly limited temp range at any given weight.

    Over time those VIs break down, and you're left with something closer to the first number than the second. And the oils with the greatest difference between those numbers obviously have the most VIs, so all else being equal, a 10W-40 will break down "farther" than a 10W-30. And that's what the old change intervals were based on.

    Synthetic is still derived from crude oil, but processed with more hydrocracking (refining). This produces a base that flows better at low temperatures yet doesn't break down at higher temperatures. So when they say 0W-20 they're really describing the range of the base, not VIs. And that's why the change intervals are longer.

  17. #1392
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    It's really easy. Every car specifies what oil should be used in the owners manual. To continue using the 100 series Land cruiser example, it spells it out in the owners manual.

    The below is pulled straight from the Land cruiser owners manual. Use 5w30. Use synthetic, brand doesn't really matter. Click image for larger version. 

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    sent from Utah.
    sigless.

  18. #1393
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    Agree.

  19. #1394
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skidog View Post
    This is what I have always followed. My Saab guy whom I truly trust switch me off synthetic in a higher mileage 9-5

    Sent from my Pixel 2 using TGR Forums mobile app
    Disagree.

  20. #1395
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    May 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Todd Zander View Post
    Disagree.
    Yeah I'm so not a car guy. At least fixing em, but I trusted this guy..he knew Saabs and she's still running strong at over 160k. 2008.

    Sent from my Pixel 2 using TGR Forums mobile app
    http://www.firsttracksonline.com

    I wish i could be like SkiFishBum

  21. #1396
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    Yeah disagree. I would use synthetic, and if it developed leaks because of the switch to synthetic, fix the leaks.

    sent from Utah.
    sigless.

  22. #1397
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    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
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    My car is supposed to use 0W-20 here in the US but in other countries it's 0W-30 and in a few warm spots it 5W-30 and in the middle east it's 10W-30. Here in the US and in Euroland it's the lower viscosities mostly due to fuel economy regs. It's very common for people to run the 5-30 in the summer or for track use, that 0-20 is like water.

  23. #1398
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    203
    The only time conventional should be used instead of synthetic is in a wankel, unless the omp is blocked off and you're running 2stroke in the gas.

    ^the only hesitation I'd have with running a thicker weight than listed in a 0w20 car is how high pressure may get during cold starts. Today's fuel efficient engines are built very, very tight.

    Bob is the oil guy is great, here's a quick summary:
    Brand doesn't matter, any quality synthetic will outlast filter capacity. Don't use fram filters.
    That's about all you need to know

  24. #1399
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    May 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by basinbeater View Post
    Yeah disagree. I would use synthetic, and if it developed leaks because of the switch to synthetic, fix the leaks.

    sent from Utah.
    For the record the Saab hasn't dripped a drop of oil.

    Sent from my Pixel 2 using TGR Forums mobile app
    http://www.firsttracksonline.com

    I wish i could be like SkiFishBum

  25. #1400
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    Oct 2010
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    1,064
    Quote Originally Posted by KyleLanTheman View Post
    :
    Brand doesn't matter, any quality synthetic will outlast filter capacity. Don't use fram filters.
    That's about all you need to know
    Except the Fram Ultra filter is well regarded.

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