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  1. #6176
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    13,061
    I feel like every man goes through a phase at some point in their life where they just start putting truck-bed-liner on everything. This is my phase. Beat the shit out of my Tundra wheeling into a boulder so it too some bedliner and a crow bar to get it back in shape. And the tailgate needs some traction for winter. Truck bed under the camper is pretty bomber now. Next I'll do the rear bumper.

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  2. #6177
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    West Coast of the East Coast
    Posts
    7,887

    Anyone that knows what this is for will understand. I was saying a few prayers last night.
    Thank you Saint Carroll Shelby for watching down on me in my time of need.

    Now I need to find out where my coolant is leaking to, since it is thankfully not going into the engine..
    I like living where the Ogdens are high enough so that I'm not everyone's worst problem.- YetiMan

  3. #6178
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    12,282
    Quote Originally Posted by warthog View Post
    Anyone that knows what this is for will understand. I was saying a few prayers last night.
    Thank you Saint Carroll Shelby for watching down on me in my time of need.

    Now I need to find out where my coolant is leaking to, since it is thankfully not going into the engine..
    Oh man! Been there, as I'm sure some of you may remember. AFTER I replaced my head gasket (and got my head straightened and refurbed), I was still leaking coolant but thankfully it was simply a hose or clamp that needed some fiddling with, or maybe it was a seal. I forget, but I remember it was something super simple. Hard part of course was FINDING it to begin with since it only liked to leak when everything is running and under pressure. Would never leak when idling there in my driveway. Wipe everything down squeaky clean, take 'er for a spin, re-examine with a flashlight and hopefully you can pinpoint where the leak is.

  4. #6179
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Granite, UT
    Posts
    2,566
    Quote Originally Posted by warthog View Post

    Anyone that knows what this is for will understand. I was saying a few prayers last night.
    Thank you Saint Carroll Shelby for watching down on me in my time of need.

    Now I need to find out where my coolant is leaking to, since it is thankfully not going into the engine..
    Under $100 at Harbor Freight.


  5. #6180
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,334
    Quote Originally Posted by Touring_Sedan View Post
    Under $100 at Harbor Freight.

    Lot of chain autopart stores let you borrow these as well.

  6. #6181
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Granite, UT
    Posts
    2,566
    Quote Originally Posted by fatnslow View Post
    Lot of chain autopart stores let you borrow these as well.
    Don't even bother with the ones from the parts store. Last time it took me 3 tries to find a store with all the adapters and didn't leak worse than my radiator. I probably lost $100 in time and gas driving around to find one.

  7. #6182
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    San Juan Islands, WA.
    Posts
    1,211
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I use only one or two from this set

  8. #6183
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    truckee
    Posts
    2,412
    Expand your horizons, everything's a dildo if you're brave enough

  9. #6184
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    West Coast of the East Coast
    Posts
    7,887
    I've been called a dildo, so maybe you are correct.

    I "rented" one. Ford radiator is pretty basic bitch, so he assured me it would work.
    If not, it was free. Maybe I will just buy the attachment if they sell separately.

    I got the UV dye and the gizmo. What else do I need to know? Anything difficult about this process?

    We had a serpentine belt come off while driving, hence the worry. This was a while back, but I just noticed how low the coolant was.
    No overheat situation, except the night of the belt loss. I think the boiling coolant probably damaged the radiator. I'll take a $2-300 bill over the head gasket bill all day long.

    Once this is buttoned up, I am buying a 'Bird season pass. This almost derailed my plans. Thank you again Mr Shelby.
    I like living where the Ogdens are high enough so that I'm not everyone's worst problem.- YetiMan

  10. #6185
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Tejas
    Posts
    12,282
    Quote Originally Posted by warthog View Post
    I've been called a dildo, so maybe you are correct.

    I "rented" one. Ford radiator is pretty basic bitch, so he assured me it would work.
    If not, it was free. Maybe I will just buy the attachment if they sell separately.

    I got the UV dye and the gizmo. What else do I need to know? Anything difficult about this process?

    We had a serpentine belt come off while driving, hence the worry. This was a while back, but I just noticed how low the coolant was.
    No overheat situation, except the night of the belt loss. I think the boiling coolant probably damaged the radiator. I'll take a $2-300 bill over the head gasket bill all day long.

    Once this is buttoned up, I am buying a 'Bird season pass. This almost derailed my plans. Thank you again Mr Shelby.
    How easy is it to check the water pump? Once I had a leak from a NEW gasket that failed. Swapped it out and problem solved. Thankfully a very cheap and relatively easy fix. Just one possibility of many. Also check all radiator hose and various coolant connections of course.

    Sent from my Pixel 8 using TGR Forums mobile app

  11. #6186
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,334
    Quote Originally Posted by warthog View Post
    I've been called a dildo, so maybe you are correct.



    I "rented" one. Ford radiator is pretty basic bitch, so he assured me it would work.
    If not, it was free. Maybe I will just buy the attachment if they sell separately.

    I got the UV dye and the gizmo. What else do I need to know? Anything difficult about this process?

    We had a serpentine belt come off while driving, hence the worry. This was a while back, but I just noticed how low the coolant was.
    No overheat situation, except the night of the belt loss. I think the boiling coolant probably damaged the radiator. I'll take a $2-300 bill over the head gasket bill all day long.

    Once this is buttoned up, I am buying a 'Bird season pass. This almost derailed my plans. Thank you again Mr Shelby.
    Attach to the top of your radiator , pump it up to recommended PSI and watch... Try multiple times in case you have a hairline crack in a radiator. I had a radiator that took multiple attempts before it started slightly weeping. If you have a plastic radiator lot of times where the metal end caps meet the plastic start separating and weeping.
    How much coolant are you losing ?
    Pray to click/clack it's not a HG.

  12. #6187
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Posts
    569
    Came across this...

    Operation CHARM

    The Collection of High-quality Auto Repair Manuals spans almost all makes and models from 1982 through 2013. Our data will be available free of charge, permanently. You are entitled the right to repair, understand, and upgrade what's yours without paying extra for a workshop manual.

    https://charm.li/

  13. #6188
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,334
    Quote Originally Posted by Garbowski View Post
    Came across this...

    Operation CHARM

    The Collection of High-quality Auto Repair Manuals spans almost all makes and models from 1982 through 2013. Our data will be available free of charge, permanently. You are entitled the right to repair, understand, and upgrade what's yours without paying extra for a workshop manual.

    https://charm.li/
    This is awesome !

  14. #6189
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    driven way past the Stop and Shop
    Posts
    3,072
    Quote Originally Posted by Garbowski View Post
    Came across this...

    Operation CHARM

    The Collection of High-quality Auto Repair Manuals spans almost all makes and models from 1982 through 2013. Our data will be available free of charge, permanently. You are entitled the right to repair, understand, and upgrade what's yours without paying extra for a workshop manual.

    https://charm.li/
    Thanks!
    Damn, we're in a tight spot!

  15. #6190
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    In your Dreams
    Posts
    2,350
    Getting ready to do front brakes on my Jeep and Forester. $200-250 at Oreilly for pads and rotor. Where are you going for brake parts these days?
    Seeker of Truth. Dispenser of Wisdom. Protector of the Weak. Avenger of Evil.

  16. #6191
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    12,182
    ~$50/rotor and $60-80/axle for ceramic pads

  17. #6192
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    driven way past the Stop and Shop
    Posts
    3,072
    Quote Originally Posted by Cisco Kid View Post
    Getting ready to do front brakes on my Jeep and Forester. $200-250 at Oreilly for pads and rotor. Where are you going for brake parts these days?
    I’m more likely to get my brake pads at NAPA (not a sponsor). Better selection and the price is usually lower. Used Amazon and Rock Auto a fair amount but a couple of return cock ups made me prefer buying in store.
    Damn, we're in a tight spot!

  18. #6193
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    907
    Posts
    16,120
    Quote Originally Posted by Cisco Kid View Post
    Getting ready to do front brakes on my Jeep and Forester. $200-250 at Oreilly for pads and rotor. Where are you going for brake parts these days?

    RockAuto.com should have everything. Yes, coated brake components are better.

  19. #6194
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    12,182
    Just get Powerstop rotors and ceramic pads and don't look back. If your local parts store carries them they'll be damn near the same price as online.

  20. #6195
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Posts
    6,182
    Quote Originally Posted by Cisco Kid View Post
    Getting ready to do front brakes on my Jeep and Forester. $200-250 at Oreilly for pads and rotor. Where are you going for brake parts these days?
    I’ve been using RockAuto for a while now. Haven’t ever had any issues with them.

  21. #6196
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    In your Dreams
    Posts
    2,350
    Thnx. I get the tech but a little pricey and too much for my needs.
    Google sez-
    " I do recommend these slotted and drilled rotors to aggressive and high mileage drivers,"

    Got tires this week for the Jeep and the tech said to come back and get them rotated in 3000. Told him I'd be back in April, maybe June. And I have always coast to a stop when I can and practice Chauffeur Braking as a rule. $150-75ish from RockAuto makes sense.
    Seeker of Truth. Dispenser of Wisdom. Protector of the Weak. Avenger of Evil.

  22. #6197
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,334
    Quote Originally Posted by Cisco Kid View Post
    Getting ready to do front brakes on my Jeep and Forester. $200-250 at Oreilly for pads and rotor. Where are you going for brake parts these days?
    Rockauto for me if I I have the time to wait and look in their sale/clearance section for extra savings.

  23. #6198
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
    21,423
    Quote Originally Posted by Cisco Kid View Post
    Thnx. I get the tech but a little pricey and too much for my needs.
    Google sez-
    " I do recommend these slotted and drilled rotors to aggressive and high mileage drivers,"

    Got tires this week for the Jeep and the tech said to come back and get them rotated in 3000. Told him I'd be back in April, maybe June. And I have always coast to a stop when I can and practice Chauffeur Braking as a rule. $150-75ish from RockAuto makes sense.
    I don't like drilled rotors. The cheap ones (all of them, until you spend race money) tend to crack at the holes. Basic blank rotors of OEM style (eg vented) are simple and just plain work.

    I use RockAuto for a lot of parts, but brake rotors are heavy, so shipping costs a lot. Search on RockAuto for your parts, and find them on Amazon by part number for similar pricing and free shipping. Amazon's search tool for what fits your car isn't that accurate.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  24. #6199
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Posts
    6,182
    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    I don't like drilled rotors. The cheap ones (all of them, until you spend race money) tend to crack at the holes. Basic blank rotors of OEM style (eg vented) are simple and just plain work.

    I use RockAuto for a lot of parts, but brake rotors are heavy, so shipping costs a lot. Search on RockAuto for your parts, and find them on Amazon by part number for similar pricing and free shipping. Amazon's search tool for what fits your car isn't that accurate.
    Even race ones crack at the holes, at least on race cars.

    Slotted rotors won’t crack, but they are noisier that plain rotors.

    Just stick with plain rotors unless you’re actually doing track days.

  25. #6200
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    907
    Posts
    16,120
    Ceramic brake pads ain't necessarily the be-all end-all either. They have less braking friction than semi-metallic, which for oem semi-metallic systems means it takes more pedal to stop. This heats rotors to a higher temp than oem semi-metallic pads would, which can burnish rotors and make brittle regions due to sub-optimal hot/cool cycles that shock rather than anneal the steel.

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