Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

[Touring_Sedan]

Is that part of your radiator ? Can't tell if that's oil mixed in or not.

It's one of the rear shock with some soapy water in it. Luckily it's the company whip so I won't be covering that replacement.

[ghosthop]

Rear upper control arm on a 3G Acura TL. Done on the street in Baltimore with a goddamn scissor jack.

[Touring_Sedan]

I feel like my father. I had all the shit I needed to do a quick brake job. Usually there's a trip or 3 to the parts store.

[gravitylover]

Nice. I have to pull my front passenger side brake pads out today. It looks like a rock got stuck in there and it's digging a nice groove in the brand new Brembo rotor I put in a few weeks ago and squealing like a stuck pig.

[MontuckyFried]

Rear upper control arm on a 3G Acura TL. Done on the street in Baltimore with a goddamn scissor jack.

Nice field repair! Gotta love how stuff always seems to break at the worst possible time/place.

[MontuckyFried]

Nice. I have to pull my front passenger side brake pads out today. It looks like a rock got stuck in there and it's digging a nice groove in the brand new Brembo rotor I put in a few weeks ago and squealing like a stuck pig.

Ooh, that sucks. What are the odds of that?! Of course it happens on the brand new rotor and not when you still had the old ones on. Sunnuva...

[gravitylover]

Yeah right. I may have gotten lucky though. I got stuck having to go through a huge puddle close to 2 feet deep and had to stop and back up to go around a stalled X5 and it stopped squealing. That was just after I posted so hopefully the rock got dislodged. I'll find out when I go out later. I'd like to get it turned to get rid of the groove but no shops do that anymore except one Midas and they only do it if you bring the car in, you can't just bring the rotor so the labor is $150.

[Touring_Sedan]

Yeah right. I may have gotten lucky though. I got stuck having to go through a huge puddle close to 2 feet deep and had to stop and back up to go around a stalled X5 and it stopped squealing. That was just after I posted so hopefully the rock got dislodged. I'll find out when I go out later. I'd like to get it turned to get rid of the groove but no shops do that anymore except one Midas and they only do it if you bring the car in, you can't just bring the rotor so the labor is $150.

Most auto parts stores around here will turn rotors.

[simple]

The days of turning rotors and flywheels is almost done. If you have shops that do it they will likely not in a few years. Precision is not a word that modern part places cares about. The dipshits that work there can barely keep themselves sober enough to crack another can of Monster energy.

[Touring_Sedan]

The days of turning rotors and flywheels is almost done. If you have shops that do it they will likely not in a few years. Precision is not a word that modern part places cares about. The dipshits that work there can barely keep themselves sober enough to crack another can of Monster energy.

That's a pretty shitty view. I think it has more to do with the fact that you can get a new rotor delivered to your door for $10 more than it costs to turn the old one.

[gravitylover]

I got lucky and got these for half price at $70 each on closeout, turning should be less than $50.

[simple]

That's a pretty shitty view. I think it has more to do with the fact that you can get a new rotor delivered to your door for $10 more than it costs to turn the old one.

Whatever. Totally agree that cheap parts is more the reason. Also believe that our throw away society is to blame but that is just another shitty POV that is grounded in reality.

[Squirreljam]

Try an oreilly if you have one near you, the one by me (Missouri, admittedly) turns rotors for $15 each

[MontuckyFried]

Probably mostly depends on where you live. Thankfully, in case the need arises, I checked out the machine shop I used to go to. They still turn rotors. Only $15. Last I used them, they had a pretty awesome machine that was computerized and pretty darn precise. I was impressed. For many though, I can see how it's just easier to do a full swap for the sake of convenience.

[El Chupacabra]

I wouldn't bother turning a rotor to clean up a rock groove scrape. Thinner rotor tends to warp more easily. From the description it just sounds cosmetic.

[Squirreljam]

The convenience factor for sure for shops; their time is worth it to decline turning and slap on new rotors. Most shop customers won’t know there’s an alternative. But for diy types the savings still add up. Just 6-8 weeks ago one of my odysseys needed brakes at the safety inspection. Shop doing the safety quoted $700 for a 4 wheel brake job! By DIY w new pads and turning rotors at $15 each, I saved ~$500 bucks over that (of course I had all the sprays and lubes pictured above too).

[Touring_Sedan]

The convenience factor for sure for shops; their time is worth it to decline turning and slap on new rotors. Most shop customers won’t know there’s an alternative. But for diy types the savings still add up. Just 6-8 weeks ago one of my odysseys needed brakes at the safety inspection. Shop doing the safety quoted $700 for a 4 wheel brake job! By DIY w new pads and turning rotors at $15 each, I saved ~$500 bucks over that (of course I had all the sprays and lubes pictured above too).

Rotors, Pads, Caliper Bolts, Set Screws, and a half dozen oil plug washers were $175 shipped. Even if I had to by all the tools and petroleum products it still would have been under $200. I think it took an hour, tops.

[MontuckyFried]

I think it took an hour, tops.

You lucky dog. I haven't been so lucky. Seems to always be that one last VERY stuck bolt or seized caliper to deal with. Haha.

[uglymoney]

I would never replace a rotor because it has a groove or three in it. They work just as well once the pad wears to match. I only replace them when they warp.

That's just me. Function over form. If the steering wheel isn't vibrating during braking I'm not about to tempt fate with a new disc.

Like Austin I always have stuck calipers so I save the money to replace calipers when needed...which seems to be quite often.


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[doebedoe]

This spring / summer was my first time ever wrenching on cars. Wrenched on bikes, do all my own ski work, but cars always freaked me out.

But I decided it was time. Put my last stimulus check into getting the '90 miata running. I bought this car when I was 16 -- and it's been in the family the 19 years since (e.g. I gave it to my mother when I went to college, grad school, etc and had no need for a car in a big city.) She neglected it -- just doing basics to keep it sorta running. I trailered it back a few years ago but didn't put more than a couple dozen miles on it in that time.

So I've been "baselining" it as folks seem to call it. Changed fluids and filters (oil, fuel, diff, trans, coolant, brake, clutch), fresh plugs and wires, rebuilt the shifter (new bushings, shift boots, insulation), new rotors and pads (rotors where a bitch to get off due to rust), and new tires. Found a used soft top to replace the original as well.

I've managed to get 3 of the 4 original (30 years + 115k mi) shocks and bump stops (which were completely gone) replaced. Last one is taking me down a rabbit hole. The shock mount has a captive nut welded into place that broke off when trying to remove the shock. It's easier to replace the whole lower A-arm than fix it. So I got a used arm to replace. Got 3 of the 4 bolts out, but last one is completely rust fuck into place. PB Blaster, BFH, propane torch, cordless impact wrench have all failed. Broke my 3/8" socket, 18" breaker bar trying to free it. Luckily my uncle-in-law is local and is a classic car nut with a full shop -- so I'll be going over there soon to try to get it out either with a big ass impact wrench or an axle grinder.

Anyway -- it's been a good learning experience. And fun to be back driving this up canyons to trail runs. This winter when it's not driven much I'll tackle a few slow oil leaks due to old gaskets, and replace timing belt/water pump. Or at least that's the plan.

A few pics from the process. A spare hand and problem solving brain of a friend have been real good to have.

[warthog]

So I had a new engine put in the Bronco by Ford. Brand new long block 351W.
I am having the PSOM ( speedometer computer) rebuilt, and they can set the mileage to the new engine.
If I take lots of before and after pics of the speedometer read out, I am thinking it will be fine if I ever decide to sell it.
What does the TRG say?

Not like I would be trying to pass it off as original mileage on the whole truck, just the new engine.
I would provide all receipts, pics, etc. at time of sale.

[Mazderati]

I would leave the original mileage and make a note of when the work was done but that's just me.

[simple]

I would leave the original mileage and make a note of when the work was done but that's just me.

Ditto

[snowaddict91]

Ditto

+2. Unless you are sure you are never going to sell it. Mismatched or unknown mileage is a HUGE red flag, even when buying a cheap older vehicle.

[Touring_Sedan]

So I had a new engine put in the Bronco by Ford. Brand new long block 351W.
I am having the PSOM ( speedometer computer) rebuilt, and they can set the mileage to the new engine.
If I take lots of before and after pics of the speedometer read out, I am thinking it will be fine if I ever decide to sell it.
What does the TRG say?

Not like I would be trying to pass it off as original mileage on the whole truck, just the new engine.
I would provide all receipts, pics, etc. at time of sale.

That thing is old as fuck and has clearly been restored. If you were trying to pass it off as a numbers matching survivor I think it would matter. At this point, how much of it is original? I think the new owner will understand.