Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

[ill-advised strategy]

So if it's your front driveline that's vibrating, that's because it's turning and wearing out. If you don't want it to turn and wear out, you could likely add a manual hub.

If your rig isn't turning the front driveline at highway speed, front u-joints aren't likely the source of your bad vibes.

I guess we're all getting old. My old goes like this: I hate the idea of wearing out a second drivetrain (the front) that I'm not using. I think all these auto hubs and center axle d/c systems are needlessly complex and mainly built so bankers don't have to get their loafers slushy.
Then again, if all you have to do is a set of u joints in 100K+ miles, who cares.

If that was my wifey-rig, I might just pull the front shaft for the whole summer and put it back on in the fall with the snow tires and the storm windows and raking leaves and all that fall shit.

[ill-advised strategy]

Don't know if manual hubs are available for conversion, but this style (no lockout hubs, everything spins all the time) is universal today, on "real" 4WDs (i.e. transfer case + low range, not AWD).

It's pretty amazing how things have come full circle from those old full time np203 4x4 pickups to selectable hubs and all the way back to spinning everything again.

[Kailua_Boys]

I know you can buy manual hub conversion kits for full size pickups giving you 2wd low. It fully disengages the front drive train when not in use. But it's $2k. And if you're getting 150k before needing maintenance you have to decide if it's worth the hassle and cost of taking apart your entire drive train.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using TGR Forums mobile app

[Name Redacted]

Ripped the step-sides and front wind fairing thing off my new F150 the other day. Pretty simple wrenching but took some elbow grease and lots of dirt in the face. Truck looks so much better without that shit.

[Skidog]

Ripped the step-sides and front wind fairing thing off my new F150 the other day. Pretty simple wrenching but took some elbow grease and lots of dirt in the face. Truck looks so much better without that shit.

been thinking about pull the step sides on my Tundra....kids need em a bit still though.

[basinbeater]

Replace them with some beefy rock sliders that have a step platform built in.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using TGR Forums mobile app

[El Chupacabra]

If your rig isn't turning the front driveline at highway speed, front u-joints aren't likely the source of your bad vibes.

<snip>

Then again, if all you have to do is a set of u joints in 100K+ miles, who cares.

If that was my wifey-rig, I might just pull the front shaft for the whole summer and put it back on in the fall with the snow tires and the storm windows and raking leaves and all that fall shit.

On this 2010 Xterra, like all 2nd gen Xterras, the front driveshaft spins all the time, whether in 2WD or 4WD. Removing it seemed to eliminate the 60-80mph vibrations. I haven't pulled the old U-joints out yet; Autozone didn't have the loaner tool in stock last night.

A set of U-joints every 125K miles is the kind of cost and repair I find acceptable, vs. a $$$$ lockout hub conversion (hubs, wheel bearings that will require regreasing rather than OEM sealed unit bearings, new stub ends, etc., etc....)

The wifey rig gets used offroad occasionally, so the 4WD needs to work during summer.

[Name Redacted]

Replace them with some beefy rock sliders that have a step platform built in.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using TGR Forums mobile app

Maybe after I put a lift on it. I'm still tall enough to get a cheek on the seat without a step and it's fun to watch everyone else struggle.

[ill-advised strategy]

Yeah, I see now that later xtrerra isn't going to take a simple hub unbolt-and-bolt-the-warns-in deal like my toyota did.

[Game Over]

Im huDge-> Clogged fuel line on the mower.

[ill-advised strategy]

look at those huge meats. What size lift?

[XXX-er]

adventure under the truck, so I get a flat out on the highway I pull over and GF sez there is a bear on the other side of the road, honk the horn he doesnt seem to care and wasn't moving so I just changed the tire with GF keeping an eye on the bear.

Fortunately I had felt the truck sway/seen the TPM light go on so I managed to get stopped fast enough to not destroy the tire so I got it fixed for 25$

Those spare tires that are carried up under the bed never get checked, so mine had never been used in 7 years, it only had 25 lbs in it ... check your spare folks

[Game Over]

look at those huge meats. What size lift?

2 4x4's

[tripice351]

check your spare folks

Sage advice.

Also, if the spare (or any tire) is more than 7 years old, it should be replaced. You can figure out the age by looking at the last 4 digits of the DOT code (listed in week of the year followed by the year, ie 5110 would be the 51st week of 2010) The date portion is only on one side of the tire, so annoying it's not on both sides)

Also, if any dryrot is seen on either sidewall or in the tread, it is considered a safety issue and should be replaced. Most tire separations are from dryrot, and end up as those peeled off chunks of tread littering the side of the road.

[El Chupacabra]

^^^ This reminds me. I really need to get around to replacing the ancient spare on my truck. I've never used it, and I think it's original... It's a 2000 truck.

[reckless toboggan]

^^^ This reminds me. I really need to get around to replacing the ancient spare on my truck. I've never used it, and I think it's original... It's a 2000 truck.

I'm bet you could get away with just checking the spare.

[El Chupacabra]

Putting 80 psi in a 17 year old tire is kind of scary.

[basinbeater]

Oh yeah... The end is getting closer, few more little things, and this thing will be ready to go. Taking it to the pool tonight..


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using TGR Forums mobile app

[Mazderati]

New tires weekend before last. Used the opportunity to clean the insides of the wheels and wheel wells. Brake, power steering, and transmission fluid (with filter) flushes this past weekend.

Have the coolant and thermostat for a coolant flush but may go ahead and get the timing belt changed which requires draining anyway. Car only has 27k miles but is 18 years old at this point so the peace of mind a new belt provides is starting to outweigh the thought of a plastic-clip-breaking-no-fucks-given-greasy-fingerprints garage putting their hands on it.

[basinbeater]

Pics please.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using TGR Forums mobile app

[basinbeater]

E34 540i/6spd gonna get some love today if the springs arrive. New koni sports and h&r springs, with new mounts, spring pads, bump stops.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using TGR Forums mobile app

[basinbeater]

Back at it.
3 of 4 on. Got late. Gonna do the last one tomorrow.




Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using TGR Forums mobile app

[basinbeater]

Done. Rides nice sporty, and controlled, and smooth. Koni and h&r is a great combo. I have konis on the Porsche as well, and they are great. Good stance too...


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using TGR Forums mobile app

[basinbeater]

That's some fancy hardware.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using TGR Forums mobile app

[ncskier]

I posted in the Landcruiser thread about picking up a new to me mint 2003 Tacoma Long bed, regular cab, 4x4, 4cylinder. After spending the past 25 years avoiding working on vehicles I have to admit its been fun tinkering with general maintenance stuff. It sat for about 6 years so first was a new battery. Then this past weekend I drained the old oil and replaced with some nice fresh dino oil and Napa gold filter.
Any thoughts on switching to a high mileage blend or full synthetic?
It has 166k on the motor and nothing leaks and nothing burns apparently. It runs like a top. The oil filter was a pain in the ass to remove.
Last night I decided to change spark plugs with some factory Denso from the dealer. They are expensive at $10 a pop, however the prior owner had some POS Autolite ones that were way past their due date.
I had to follow a tutorial about removing a resonance box for the air box, but once that was out of the way it was smooth sailing. I did put antiseize on the threads and dielectric on the coil packs for good measure, buttoned it back up and couldn't believe how quiet and smooth it was at idle. I suspect based on the condition of the plugs that they change 1&4 but left 2&3 due to them being under the air intake tube. Regardless, its done now and running so quietly its hard to believe its a 15 year old motor. Good job Toyota.
My buddy owns an independent shop so next is some fresh fluids in the T-Case, Differentials and Gear box. I don't want to tackle those without a lift and experience.
I scored some Yokohama Geolander M&T+ for $120 each from Tire Rack on clearance and I have new matte grey wheels coming 16x8 with -10mm backspace to give the wheel wells and UCA's some more space for the Old Man Emu lift i ordered. New coilovers and new rear shocks and springs, should add some more clearance and life to the Taco.
Once external stuff starts going on I'll snaps some pics.
I have to admit compared to my 2017 Diesel Super Duty, this truck is very fun and more like our Polaris Ranger in a lot of ways. Looking around the almost spartan engine bay is refreshing.
I have some decisions to make like ripping out the badly beat up rhino lining and possible paint job to OD Green or Desert Tan. Also adding a snorkle and some armor. But that will be phase 2.
I keep tinkering with "forever cars" and I thought my 2015 JK 4 door would be the one, but that didn't work out due to the stellar quality of Fiat and shitty dealer network which destroyed it.
I am thinking of keeping this mighty Taco for the long haul. I have less then 5k in it so far and Alias shared the carfax with me and its always been a southern truck. Not a stitch of rust anywhere.
I should add- I did spend lots of time cleaning the interior since it sat for 6 years under a carport with cigarette ashes in the ash tray. Seemed like every hot day it would reek again. I didn't check the ashtray until this past weekend and realized thats why I couldn't get the smell out. Now after soaking it in white vinegar and leaving vinegar inside the cab for a few days along with an ionizing bomb for the vents, It smells 100% better.