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  1. #2026
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    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    I'm gonna make you all as nutty about this car thing as I've been We have an 06 Outback that's been sitting in the driveway for two years now because the brake lines went bad. I was going to deal with it last spring but didn't because we didn't need it but now I'm thinking that if I don't put a motor in my BRZ maybe I should do all the things the OB needs and take it a few steps further. Instead of just replacing the brake system I'd upgrade it with better calipers, pads and rotors and at some point really soon it's going to need tires and shocks anyway so maybe it's time to rally it out and put a decent exhaust on because the stock one is pretty ugly after 14 years. With only 92k on it, 5 speed and not a lot of rust it sounds like a decent idea right? So to resurrect the thing after sitting what else do I need to do other than the brakes which are getting done anyway? Serpentine belt and tensioner, air filter, hoses, fluids, maybe spark plugs, timing belt was done about a year before it was parked and...? What's a good source for info and parts?
    If it aint broke.....

  2. #2027
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    Quote Originally Posted by snowaddict91 View Post
    Friday night I was checking fluids on the wife's Rav4 before we headed out with her driving and me in the moving truck. Noticed a bit of residue on a cooling hose, went to wipe it off, and the damn T connector plastic broke and started spraying coolant all over me and my driveway.
    ...
    The day I closed on my house I also had to solve a leaking water hose on the fridge. I need a fuggin break.
    Geez that was a lot to deal with in a short period of time and a time crunch to boot. Great job! I was stressed out just reading your post. Haha. Congrats on the new digs tho!

  3. #2028
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    Quote Originally Posted by uglymoney View Post
    The $80 an hour mechanic would probably be cheaper.
    [Cries in Volvo] $80/hr seems "cheap!" Haha. There's a reason I now do all the work myself. Every mechanic's bill has been hudge on that car. Expensive parts, expensive labor, and usually done wrong (especially at the dealer).

    Quote Originally Posted by uglymoney View Post
    Job anxiety is real. I get it almost every time I tackle a job with one of our cars. I think it makes me work slower and more careful. Sometimes a beer or two can break the ice.
    Words to live by. I'm almost always scared when I start ripping into places of the car I'm not familiar with but every time I complete the mission, the satisfaction is fantastic. Like you said, a beer (or a strong beverage of the distilled type) is great for getting me over that initial hump where I'm just staring at the car, scratching my head. I'm finally about to dive headfirst into project ghetto Audi. Wish me luck.

  4. #2029
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    Quote Originally Posted by uglymoney View Post
    You could run into issues pulling the rubber lines at the connection. That could require restoring the old lines at the connection. Nothing any decent mechanic can't handle.

    You could have trouble pulling the calipers off if they have never come off before. That then requires removing the knuckle up front and taking it to an automotive machine shop to get the broken bolts heat removed or finding a clean junk yard knuckle. Something similar in the back. These guys at machine shops are our friends and they deal with bailing out shadetree morons like us every day of the week. We are the blood in their veins.

    Or getting the car flatbeded to a shop. Around here that is a $100 bill. Not the end of the world.

    The $80 an hour mechanic would probably be cheaper.

    Job anxiety is real. I get it almost every time I tackle a job with one of our cars. I think it makes me work slower and more careful. Sometimes a beer or two can break the ice.

    Rereading my last post I did come across as a dick even though I tried to edit the asshole me out of it.

    You have nothing to lose as you say. It is also okay to walk away.
    I've had the calipers off before to put new pads in so that shouldn't be too big a problem.

    Job anxiety is exactly what my problem is. I get it worse with cars but it happens with stuff like plumbing pretty often too.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mazderati View Post
    Maybe put the emergency brake on and try to get it running first to see what kind of condition the engine and fuel system are in.
    I start it every few months so it "should" be good to go. I'll prime it first like I usually do before turning the key.

    Quote Originally Posted by jamal View Post
    Eh chances are you'll be able to get all that stuff off. Just give the fittings on the lines a soaking of pb blaster ahead of time (along with all the other bolts you might be taking off) and then get an actual flare wrench, and then clamp a vice-grip over the flare wrench so that it squeezes down a little harder on that fitting nut.

    Do you actually need new calipers, or maybe just pads and rotors?

    If you want to talk about your project and options for higher performance brakes and suspension upgrades and whatnot just send me a pm or email to peter at functionauto dot com
    Vice grip on the flare wrench is a good idea. That would apply to a bunch of stuff now that I think of it, good advice there! The rear calipers were on their way out when I parked it because the rear soft lines had already started going bad and they weren't getting consistent pressure. Last time I pulled a wheel back in March the passenger side was completely frozen so I know they're shot. It looks like loaded reman's aren't terribly expensive so that's the way I'd go unless there's a better performance option that doesn't cost too much more.

    Thanks for the contact info, I'll take you up on it if we decide to go this way.

    Quote Originally Posted by MontuckyFried View Post
    [Cries in Volvo] $80/hr seems "cheap!" Haha. There's a reason I now do all the work myself. Every mechanic's bill has been hudge on that car. Expensive parts, expensive labor, and usually done wrong (especially at the dealer).

    Words to live by. I'm almost always scared when I start ripping into places of the car I'm not familiar with but every time I complete the mission, the satisfaction is fantastic. Like you said, a beer (or a strong beverage of the distilled type) is great for getting me over that initial hump where I'm just staring at the car, scratching my head. I'm finally about to dive headfirst into project ghetto Audi. Wish me luck.
    I know why mechanics cost what they do but I just don't see how 2<>5 times what most people earn is realistic which is why I started working on my own cars again a few years ago also. As often as not I do pay a shop to change the oil though, I bring oil and filter and they charge $20, so I don't have to deal with the used oil.

    Damn, after all of your stupid shit in some of the other threads here I finally was able to respond to something you've posted without telling you off for being a moron.

  5. #2030
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    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    I know why mechanics cost what they do but I just don't see how 2<>5 times what most people earn is realistic which is why I started working on my own cars again a few years ago also. As often as not I do pay a shop to change the oil though, I bring oil and filter and they charge $20, so I don't have to deal with the used oil.
    It does suck, but I do understand where they're coming from. Having a shop is EXPENSIVE. Crazy high overhead. Especially if you want to have the best mechanics like my favorite Euro shop I had in Bozeman. Still. The costs are now more than I can afford to shell out, so I do everything I possibly can myself. I've easily saved thousands so it's always worth it to me to take the risk.

    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    Damn, after all of your stupid shit in some of the other threads here I finally was able to respond to something you've posted without telling you off for being a moron.
    Common ground, man. Common ground. Uglymoney and I hung out once IRL over bbq and beer, having a great discussion about old Porsches. This is why its SO important for all of us to get to know each other in the real world instead of just across the cold darkness of the internet where we think nothing but politics exists. When you're cruising down a mountain in nip-deep powder, politics and all that bs gets thrown out the window. Some day I can hopefully show you some sekret stashes at Big Sky/Moonlight, give you a tour of Red Lodge or Showdown, or help you run laps off the Beartooth Highway, and then you'll see what I'm talking about. Happy wrenching!

  6. #2031
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    Quick tip- if you change an axle or wheel bearing, use a new axle nut and torque it properly. Have done two wheel bearings lately where this wasn't the case and caused the failure. First was absurdly tight and crushed the bearing. The one yesterday didn't have too much play, and the nut didn't seem too tight, but the bearing was completely fucked and the axle nut had been removed, reinstalled, and re-staked at some point.

    What's super annoying is having to go to the dealership to get that nut and paying over list price. Fuckers.

    Plus side, my new Miklwaukee "mid-torque" electric impact took off the axle nut. Still want the big one though.

  7. #2032
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    Quote Originally Posted by MontuckyFried View Post
    Common ground, man. Common ground. Uglymoney and I hung out once IRL over bbq and beer, having a great discussion about old Porsches. This is why its SO important for all of us to get to know each other in the real world instead of just across the cold darkness of the internet where we think nothing but politics exists. When you're cruising down a mountain in nip-deep powder, politics and all that bs gets thrown out the window. Some day I can hopefully show you some sekret stashes at Big Sky/Moonlight, give you a tour of Red Lodge or Showdown, or help you run laps off the Beartooth Highway, and then you'll see what I'm talking about. Happy wrenching!
    Still haven't met a mag in real life I didn't find common ground with or didn't have anything to talk to about. Usually the opposite.

    Quote Originally Posted by jamal View Post
    Quick tip- if you change an axle or wheel bearing, use a new axle nut and torque it properly. Have done two wheel bearings lately where this wasn't the case and caused the failure. First was absurdly tight and crushed the bearing. The one yesterday didn't have too much play, and the nut didn't seem too tight, but the bearing was completely fucked and the axle nut had been removed, reinstalled, and re-staked at some point.

    What's super annoying is having to go to the dealership to get that nut and paying over list price. Fuckers.
    The new owners of the Subaru dealership here are notorious for that also. If I buy something from them (rarely) I look up the msrp and show them that, and tell them that is what I will pay. They adjust the price. Fuckers.

    I recently replaced the front wheel bearings in my 02 Outback (2x replacing) and I decided to order new hubs, just to get new threads on the studs mostly, and the new hubs (dorman) come with new axle nuts. Like $27 each shipped. Seems like a good excuse just to get new hubs when doing the bearings. https://smile.amazon.com/Dorman-930-...d-0c3639671b2d

  8. #2033
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    Some of you must need another car to wrench on. For your consideration, I am selling a 1990 bmw e30 325i convertible. Has all the goodies, sport seats, lsd, manual transmission, h&r springs, Bilstein shocks, st sway bars. Sounds rough, it isn't. Rides nice and smooth, but super fun to drive. Needs a couple of things, but is fine to drive as is. I've been driving it every day since it started to cool off a little bit. Super fun car around town.
    160xxx on the odo, but I think 175 is more accurate. Previous owner replaced odo gears.
    Perfectly good car to fly to slc, and drive all the way home with the top down. If you've ever done. A fly and drive, it's even better with the top down.
    I want a drift boat and have no driveway space. Need to thin the herd.
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    sent from Utah.
    sigless.

  9. #2034
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    Quote Originally Posted by basinbeater View Post
    Some of you must need another car to wrench on. For your consideration, I am selling a 1990 bmw e30 325i convertible. Has all the goodies, sport seats, lsd, manual transmission, h&r springs, Bilstein shocks, st sway bars. Sounds rough, it isn't. Rides nice and smooth, but super fun to drive. Needs a couple of things, but is fine to drive as is. I've been driving it every day since it started to cool off a little bit. Super fun car around town.
    160xxx on the odo, but I think 175 is more accurate. Previous owner replaced odo gears.
    Perfectly good car to fly to slc, and drive all the way home with the top down. If you've ever done. A fly and drive, it's even better with the top down.
    I want a drift boat and have no driveway space. Need to thin the herd.
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    sent from Utah.
    You did the seats in that too as I recall? Did I miss the asking price. This is likely the most well taken care of bimmer in the valley.

    Wish I had extra coin for a ride like that.

    Sent from my Pixel 2 using TGR Forums mobile app

  10. #2035
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    I m finding, 4/5th the way thru, that doing a clutch job, on the driveway, is nowhere near the enjoyment that it was in years past.
    The my son’s WRX has the heaviest tyranny that I have played with. Stabbing it was not fun. Satisfying, though when it slid into place.

  11. #2036
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skidog View Post
    You did the seats in that too as I recall? Did I miss the asking price. This is likely the most well taken care of bimmer in the valley.

    Wish I had extra coin for a ride like that.

    Sent from my Pixel 2 using TGR Forums mobile app
    Thanks mang. It's a nice little car. It is a little rough around the edges. There is a driveshaft clunk, mut other than that, very mechanically sound. I've driven to Ketchum and back multiple times, and when it's not 100 degrees I drive it everyday. Ac doesn't work. But it is only effective with the top up, and I never put the top up. It is a great little car. If it doesn't sell,. Shrug... I like it. The dog likes it, and the kids love it. And I have friends with drift boats.

    sent from Utah.
    sigless.

  12. #2037
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    It's always better to have friends with driftboats.....unless you like rowing and not fishing



    Says the guy with driftboat who quite thoroughly enjoys rowing and putting people on fish.


    Glws. Looks like a fun car.

  13. #2038
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    E30 cab is a great car. One of my favorites ever. They were expensive new

  14. #2039
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    Anybody here use engine oil additive to stop a minor rear main seal drip ? I have a very minor drip on a 2 liter turbo Saab engine. No way in hell I'm even considering repairing that thing and I'm thinking about throwing in some snake oil. Anyone have experience here winning/losing the snake oil lottery ?

  15. #2040
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    Look into the high mileage oils. At least some have a modifier that is supposed to soften and slightly swell rubber seals.

  16. #2041
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mazderati View Post
    Look into the high mileage oils. At least some have a modifier that is supposed to soften and slightly swell rubber seals.
    That'll be next. I have only had the car about 2 k miles and I changed oil right after purchase using synthetic( what it calls for) but suspect the previous owner might have used conventional. Sometimes the dino to synthetic can help start leaks that weren't there previously from what i have read. Next oil change will be high mileage synthetic(maybe one weight heavier).

  17. #2042
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatnslow View Post
    That'll be next. I have only had the car about 2 k miles and I changed oil right after purchase using synthetic( what it calls for) but suspect the previous owner might have used conventional. Sometimes the dino to synthetic can help start leaks that weren't there previously from what i have read. Next oil change will be high mileage synthetic(maybe one weight heavier).
    interesting, my slc saab guy, who was FANTASTIC (really the thing I miss 2nd most about utah), specifically said not to put synthetic. He knew every quirk a saab could have, some of them I scoffed at..

    We had an issue with the fuel gauge. Pretty pricey job. Told me to run chevron only premium, sure enough after a few tanks the damned thing started working again. Another note. I had an exhaust leak at the manifold. He told me $600 for the repair...he then proceeded to break all the mounts for the turbo, apparently they are cast iron, took him 17 hours to do the job, didn't even attempt to make me pay more...just asked for $600. Thats an honest ass mechanic.

  18. #2043
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skidog View Post
    interesting, my slc saab guy, who was FANTASTIC (really the thing I miss 2nd most about utah), specifically said not to put synthetic. He knew every quirk a saab could have, some of them I scoffed at..

    We had an issue with the fuel gauge. Pretty pricey job. Told me to run chevron only premium, sure enough after a few tanks the damned thing started working again. Another note. I had an exhaust leak at the manifold. He told me $600 for the repair...he then proceeded to break all the mounts for the turbo, apparently they are cast iron, took him 17 hours to do the job, didn't even attempt to make me pay more...just asked for $600. Thats an honest ass mechanic.
    He told you to run conventional oil in your NG 9-5 wagon ? That's BIG no-no with the turbo. Lot of older techs went conventional oil route when synthetic first came out and touted 10K between oil changes leading to engine sludging.
    Saab techs are funny, the old school guys(99, 900, OG 9-3) hate the newer ones and refuse to change their ways. There are a few well known shops/techs in Oregon and they really don't like to touch anything newer than 2000.

  19. #2044
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    Quote Originally Posted by old goat View Post
    Question for you who know cars, or think you do. 2018 Forester, starts vibrating. My son calls the dealer, they say bad gas, call us if it persists after half a tank gone and refilled. Next day the vibration is worse and the CEL goes on. He pulls over, towed to the dealer. Bad plug. Apparently all is well now. Is there any other damage that could have been caused by the bad plug that might not show up right away? I had a bad spark plug wire once--never had any problems after it was changed. I assume this would be the same situation. Thanks.
    Well the plug wasn't it. Took it back to the dealer where it sat for 6 weeks because they had a shop full of turbos and only one turbo mechanic. Bad rings. Apparently they're replacing with updated rings. We'll see if the car works after that. Had to go to Subaru national customer service because they wanted to charge him for the loaner while he waited for a warranty repair. Only suby dealer in Vegas. I think he should sell the car, and I advised never buy a turbo. I'm sure you young bucks will disagree.

  20. #2045
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatnslow View Post
    He told you to run conventional oil in your NG 9-5 wagon ? That's BIG no-no with the turbo. Lot of older techs went conventional oil route when synthetic first came out and touted 10K between oil changes leading to engine sludging.
    Saab techs are funny, the old school guys(99, 900, OG 9-3) hate the newer ones and refuse to change their ways. There are a few well known shops/techs in Oregon and they really don't like to touch anything newer than 2000.
    it was a heavier weight high mileage blend of some sort. He never did me wrong and fixed a TON of shit many other "saab" mechanics missed. Guy was a wiz...does Subbies too if anyone in the valley is interested. His love is for Saab though. Dont know what to tell ya. she's still humming around with 170K on her. Pulls strong.

  21. #2046
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    Quote Originally Posted by old goat View Post
    Well the plug wasn't it. Took it back to the dealer where it sat for 6 weeks because they had a shop full of turbos and only one turbo mechanic. Bad rings. Apparently they're replacing with updated rings. We'll see if the car works after that. Had to go to Subaru national customer service because they wanted to charge him for the loaner while he waited for a warranty repair. Only suby dealer in Vegas. I think he should sell the car, and I advised never buy a turbo. I'm sure you young bucks will disagree.
    One of the reasons I own two naturally aspirated V8’s.

    Too bad even Lexus is giving up the n/a v8 after 2021.

  22. #2047
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    Not in sedans but Lexus is still doing V8s for a few more years in other vehicles: GX, LX, RC F, and LC. The GX and LX will probably get some kind of V6 variant in the next redesign.

  23. #2048
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    Quote Originally Posted by old goat View Post
    Well the plug wasn't it. Took it back to the dealer where it sat for 6 weeks because they had a shop full of turbos and only one turbo mechanic. Bad rings. Apparently they're replacing with updated rings. We'll see if the car works after that. Had to go to Subaru national customer service because they wanted to charge him for the loaner while he waited for a warranty repair. Only suby dealer in Vegas. I think he should sell the car, and I advised never buy a turbo. I'm sure you young bucks will disagree.
    I have completely lost faith in Subaru and their techs after they ruined the motor in my car. It was in for a recall last year and while reassembling the engine the master tech got sloppy. Too much sealant, because nothing uses gaskets anymore, and it blocked some oil passages. About 6 weeks ago it choked for a split second then spun a bearing. It was 1 month past the warranty period for the work and the dealer that did it told me to go away and figure it out myself, SOA corporate office guy told me that since the car is past it's expected service life (at 138k) that Subaru would have no interest in helping me solve the problem. So now I have a 2800 pound planter that looks like a cool car sitting in the driveway because finding a replacement motor for these is a pain in the ass. Look around and see how many 2013 BRZ's and FRS's are for sale either with a blown motor or are fresh off having the recall work done and how few 2013-2016 FA20 motors are available for sale. I'm so bummed because I love driving the thing but the cost to get it back in order is about what the car is worth, more if I can find a decent low mileage motor from 15-16, and I can't justify spending that kind of money on a car that is aging out anyway.

    Convince him to sell the car and walk away right after the work is done.

  24. #2049
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    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    So now I have a 2800 pound planter that looks like a cool car sitting in the driveway because finding a replacement motor for these is a pain in the ass. Look around and see how many 2013 BRZ's and FRS's are for sale either with a blown motor or are fresh off having the recall work done and how few 2013-2016 FA20 motors are available for sale. I'm so bummed because I love driving the thing but the cost to get it back in order is about what the car is worth, more if I can find a decent low mileage motor from 15-16, and I can't justify spending that kind of money on a car that is aging out anyway.
    Dude. You're thinking of this all wrong! This here is your answer. LS is ALWAYS the answer. And now you have the perfect shell for which to place one in. Haha...


  25. #2050
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    LOL yeah if I had $10-12k with nothing better to do I would.

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