Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

[Mazderati]

Did you say you have hog ring pliers? They're worth it if you don't.

[Obstruction]

Upholstery jobs look like the ultimate bitch to me. Pull to much one way and you have a wrinkle in another etc. Hard work indeed but the back seat you showed earlier looked tits.

On the air/compressor topic what sort of minimum compressor specs do you folks suggest for wrenching? I've researched a bit and got lost in a stew of CFM, psi, gallons, HP, gas v. Electric etc. Mostly interested in the impact wrench aspect but some body work could be part of the equation too. Probably will try to scrounge one on CL because, you know, screw retail.

[El Chupacabra]

I have only experience with one shop compressor, but it's been running for 17 years without a problem. I bought a Craftsman oil less, 120v, something like this:

https://www.craftsman.com/products/c...?taxon_id=1642

It'd be underpowered for industrial shop use, but has been fine for home garage use. CFM at high psi (90 psi or whatever the high rating is at) is what you want to pay attention to. It's what will drive your tools adequately, or not. The bigger the tank, the longer it'll run tools without having to cycle the compressor.

Supposedly the oil less ones like I have aren't nearly as reliable as the oiled ones. Mine was on a return sale and I didn't know any better anyway, so grabbed it for like $100.

Recommend using a cheap inline water catch filter, and draining the condensate at the bottom of the tank every time you use it. Also, Harbor Freight is a good source for air hoses and miscellaneous fittings.

[basinbeater]

Yeah, I bought a husky oil less one from home depot cheap, father's day sale or something, for home garage use it is fine.
And yes, I do have specific hog ring pliers. Wouldn't dream of tackling the job without them.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using TGR Forums mobile app

[ill-advised strategy]

well, 351m has new lifters, new rockers and pushrods.

Say a little prayer for me as I test drive her to work.

[Kailua_Boys]

I've got a cheap harbor freight electric but it must be at least 18 inches long. It's good for lug nuts but I can't use it most places.

I have the same one. It's kind of hard to get in tight spots.

If you have portable power tools both Milwaukee and Dewalt make solid impacts that use their batteries. The newer 1/2 inch ones supposedly run just as much torque as the air tools. You can watch the vids on youtube. Problem is they're really expensive.



Sent from my Nexus 6 using TGR Forums mobile app

[basinbeater]

well, 351m has new lifters, new rockers and pushrods.

Say a little prayer for me as I test drive her to work.

So did you make it to work? Or you still walkin home cause it died on you in the middle a nowhere?

On a separate note...
It's alive.
Tied up some loose ends around the front end, lowered it down and went for a spina round the block. Gets up to temperature nicely and stays there. Sound pretty good with that ansa sport exhaust that it came with. Sounds... Um sporty.
Would look better with 15s. Still got some other loose ends to tie up around the interior, and finish off the upholstery, but it's getting closer.

Bmw fan boy right here...

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using TGR Forums mobile app

[Obstruction]

Cool ride!

[basinbeater]

Nobody doin work?

Finished up the rear seat. Cleaned up the rear panels before installing the seat cushions. Seat back didn't come out as good as the bottom, but I think the back seat looks pretty good overall.


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using TGR Forums mobile app

[basinbeater]

Yeah that's what I'm thinking. 10 should net me a tidy profit. I paid 4k, and am into it about 2k more in parts, bulk being the reupholster kit and the springs and shocks. About 500 in other parts brings me to about 6k total in it. The dash is cracked, and there is no easy fix for that, hell, just finding an unranked one for sale is tough. Got it registered today.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using TGR Forums mobile app

[gaijin]

It's not current, but it's my latest--

OOPS! God Damnit--


Rip it apart. Go to the junk yard for parts. The frame is straight. The drivetrain is fucking new for crying out loud.


Add some bondo. Sand it. Just make it straight for fucks sake.


Drop it off at a paint shop. "Just make it orange again."


Reupholster things that can be done for the cheap. Buys some sheep skin because Fuck those seats.


Install new carpet. Add some speakers. You're going to sleep and fuck back here, right?


And BAM-- Move to Montana. Ski a bit.


God fucking damnit. Are you kidding me?



Of course I didn't install a roll cage. What, do you think I didn't learn my lesson the first time?
Of course I didn't buy collision insurance-- if I wreck it, I'll just fix it myself. I'm sure as shit not going to total it again. Been down that road.

Fuck me. Fuck this truck. Luck doesn't come in threes. If I crash this thing again, it'll fucking kill me. That's its goal.

[mangle]

Nice truck! How you've survived two rollovers without a bar in one of these, I'm not sure.

[BmillsSkier]

Holy shit that was a great TR. Glad you're alive!

[basinbeater]

Badass truck. Stop crashing it hehe.

Nap time is a good time to watch American ninja warriors and work on interior. One sport seat just about done. Cleaned up the mounting brackets and painted black. Drying out in the front yard.





Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using TGR Forums mobile app

[ill-advised strategy]

So did you make it to work? Or you still walkin home cause it died on you in the middle a nowhere?

Man, is it nice to just roll around with no tick tick tick.
Having everything apart, I could see areas of old rust and pitting on all those pieces, I'm sure it's from extended sitting some time in the past. Mechanics at work say the lifters will take up like .020...so I'm sure between all those wear surfaces: the cam, the lifters, the pushrods and various parts of the rockers there must have been more than that 020 of wear. Sounds tight enough now.



Now I can listen to the radio again. Yesss!
4 stiff ass leaf springs....this thing rides like my old hardtail Harley.

[El Chupacabra]

Mrs. C.'s Xterra has been showing a little vibration noticeable at higher speeds -- 60-80 mph or so. Had the tires rebalanced, no change. That's not typically a speed where I've noticed tire imbalance; seems like that's more of a 40-60 mph range.

From the internet (Xterra forums and the like), driveshaft U-joints have been an issue on the Xterra and Frontier, with some dying fairly early on -- like 40K miles. Mrs. C.'s Xterra has 125K miles, so seems like a reasonable guess. Ordered the 3 U-joints for the driveshafts from Rock Auto. Xterra uses two U-joints on the front driveshaft (traditional design), and only one on the rear driveshaft (at the slip yoke on the transfer case end), with the differential end using a weird integrated thing that apparently isn't serviceable.

Pulled the front driveshaft yesterday, and it's on the workbench. One of the U-joints feels a little stiff, but neither is that bad. Picking up a U-joint press tool from Autozone loaner tools today, and will get the U-joints swapped out this week. I've replaced them before by pounding them out with sockets and a hammer, but that's a PITA, so am going to try the proper tool this time.

There's not much space on work with on the Xterra driveshaft bolts. Can't fit a ratcheting wrench or a socket + ratchet; you have to use a open end or box wrench. Nissan cranked those things on there tight. Pro tip for maximum leverage: slip the end of a trailer ball wrench over the box end wrench, add 18" of breaker bar leverage. Bolts loosened right up, no heat or penetrating oil needed.

One of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Reese-Towpowe.../dp/B000CQOIV4

[ill-advised strategy]

as a diagnostic aid, with the rear driveshaft out you could now take it for a run in front-wheel-drive and see if you still have the shakes.

[El Chupacabra]

as a diagnostic aid, with the rear driveshaft out you could now take it for a run in front-wheel-drive and see if you still have the shakes.

Front driveshaft is out currently. Did take it for a drive, and the shakes seem to be gone, so hopefully the issue is one of the front driveshaft U-joints.

[ill-advised strategy]

ugh...solid hubs and turning the front on the highway for no reason...lame.

Can you get manual hubs for that truck? I put warns on a T100 to save all that highway wear and tear and maybe smooth things out a bit. It was a good upgrade imo.

[El Chupacabra]

Don't know if manual hubs are available for conversion, but this style (no lockout hubs, everything spins all the time) is universal today, on "real" 4WDs (i.e. transfer case + low range, not AWD).

[reckless toboggan]

Don't know if manual hubs are available for conversion, but this style (no lockout hubs, everything spins all the time) is universal today, on "real" 4WDs (i.e. transfer case + low range, not AWD).

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/wrn...w/model/xterra

[Mazderati]

Most second and fourth (current) Ram HD trucks and Ford Super Duty trucks use a front axle disconnect or auto hub system to keep the front end from turning all the time.

[Jong Lafitte]

^^ yeah, this. Pretty sure that Nissan isn't turning the entire front drive system in 2wd simply because the hubs themselves don't disengage. Disconnecting the axle shaft from the diff (via solenoid hooked to 4x4 switch) would allow the diff, the prop shaft and the pinions to not turn. Sure, the U's at the hubs turn, whereas they do not with hubs that disengage, but you're not pushing the entire 4x4 system around in N. EDIT: Sorry, Chup, I'm just wrong on this as it relates to that Nissan. Looks like it is in fact spinning the whole front driveline in 2wd. Probably not odd these days, I'm getting old.

[El Chupacabra]

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/wrn...w/model/xterra

Only for the first generation, which is up to 2004, and still used the old automatic locking hub system. Mrs C has a 2010.

[Jong Lafitte]

Don't know if manual hubs are available for conversion, but this style (no lockout hubs, everything spins all the time) is universal today, on "real" 4WDs (i.e. transfer case + low range, not AWD).

Interesting that this is so common these days. I haven't shopped a car in 9 years and haven't worked on one any newer in as much time. Even if you could, my advice, for other reasons is: DO NOT PUT MANUAL LOCKING HUBS ON THE WIFE'S 4X4.