Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

**mcphee** · 04-23-2022, 06:08 PM

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Partsgeek has 11 in stock

It’s seems they have Left Front, Right Front, and Left Rear, but no Right Rear

**unitofstuff** · 04-23-2022, 09:42 PM

Originally Posted by shaggy433

NICE! I miss my E34 Touring but it was a Flintstone car on both sides.

There are still good ones out there, I bet you could find one if you wanted! An E39 wagon would be a good successor too though.

Luckily I snagged this one out of LA where it had been its whole life. It's hard to describe how they drive, sort of luxury cushy, but feels capable. A little bit of an old school feel without giving up capability. This one needs a lot of cosmetic and detail work. It's pretty dirty inside, heater core is leaking, chinesium tires that almost aren't worth balancing, etc. At least it's running nice with a low mileage S52/ZF5/3.38 setup.

Originally Posted by Todd Zander

Im just here to point out that we are more than likely talking about volts and ohms here, nothing crazy. They can be manipulated.

I bet it's just be a potentiometer or rheostat inside a plastic case. I bet we could collectively mindfuck it into a functioning sensor.

**gravitylover** · 04-23-2022, 10:50 PM

@mcphee it's that way all over. Weird, right? On the screen, the indicator jumps up and down then stops like it's not making good contact so I'll pull the wheel Monday morning and clean the plug, maybe it's that simple but I doubt it.

**Todd Zander** · 04-24-2022, 06:14 AM

3 pins in the connector? Sounds like theyre using 5v , start with making sure you have that at the connector. Verify it at a functioning corner of the car. can you get a junkyard or new connector with a couple inches of leads? Might make it easier to test out the resistance of the sensor.

**mcphee** · 04-24-2022, 06:17 AM

I love the guys drooling with their voltmeters and soldering irons at the ready not realizing that the sensor is in a sealed case.

**Todd Zander** · 04-24-2022, 06:30 AM

Noone said anything about opening them up

https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/.../#post-2328689

**mcphee** · 04-24-2022, 07:22 AM

What a weird, drawn out way to post a helpful link.

**Todd Zander** · 04-24-2022, 07:35 AM

I was searching for it since the original was broken, meanwhile youre still replying to me without much to add to the discussion.

**gravitylover** · 04-24-2022, 08:10 AM

Damn Todd, I searched for a thread like that on that site. Thanks! I don't have an oscope but I do have a voltmeter thingy so I'll play with that tomorrow and see what I can see. It sure would be good if there's only actually one part for both sides even though none of the descriptions ever say that.

**mcphee** · 04-24-2022, 08:12 AM

Originally Posted by Todd Zander

I was searching for it since the original was broken, meanwhile youre still replying to me without much to add to the discussion.

I found new ones for him online

**gravitylover** · 04-24-2022, 09:45 AM

Left was easy, right wasn't. Now I know what voltage to look for so maybe I don't need that part and it's somewhere else. I often clean plugs and junctions and it solves problems so knowing there's an actual voltage amount gives me something to look for. I have the voltmeter so I can see if there's power or resistance but I don't know what I'm looking for beyond that (yet). I'm learning though.

If I ignore the fault alert and goose it rather than backing off it will keep going without slowing down and dropping as long as it stays over 30mph. Then after a few seconds it seems to forget it had a problem (until it remembers again).

**Todd Zander** · 04-24-2022, 10:40 AM

Sounds like it happens most of the time and freaks out when you hit a bump?

I believe you can take the arm off of the leafspring and that might allow you to spin it a full 360 degrees. Im not saying to spin it around a bunch of times but if theres a deadspot in it that might help “clean “ it up

**gravitylover** · 04-24-2022, 11:14 AM

Actually it's worse in steady running, knocking it around keeps it working better for longer. Hmm, better contact... Maybe when I've been spraying the pivot so it moves more freely I've been making it worse. Gonna go clean it up this time.

And again, this thread delivers

now I can feel better about maybe solving a problem rather than replacing it. Y'all making me think and shit.

**unitofstuff** · 04-24-2022, 09:08 PM

Originally Posted by mcphee

I love the guys drooling with their voltmeters and soldering irons at the ready not realizing that the sensor is in a sealed case.

Nothing a little epoxy can't seal up again.

**gravitylover** · 04-25-2022, 12:31 AM

eBay came through with the right part so when it's done swimming over here I'll pull the wheel off and see what's up. At least then I'll have a replacement part in hand when I fuck things up

**uglymoney** · 04-27-2022, 04:54 PM

Finally got started on the 4R rear wheel bearing project. First side took me a while. Second side about 1.5 hour with a lot of that time just to get off the e brake pads.

One of two bolts snapped off on the ebrake hold down bracket on both sides but I think one will be enough to hold them. Everything else spun free no issues.

Dropped at the machine shop this afternoon along with Koyo bearings and ring/seal kit. Initially ordered OEM bearings but they were out of stock. Koyo is $200 cheaper and it is what Toyota uses on these anyway apparently.

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**MontuckyFried** · 04-27-2022, 05:12 PM

Nice work, Ugly. It would be interesting to tally up how much money you've saved over the years by wrenching yourself versus paying the stealerships to do everything. It HAS to be in the tens of thousands by now. Easily. I'm always impressed by your home mechanic prowess.

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**uglymoney** · 04-27-2022, 05:46 PM

Thanks Austin. I try. With three cars over 200k that seem to run pretty reliably I figure I am ahead of the national average at least. All of our cars were bought new, or nearly new (4R) and almost exclusively maintained by myself once out of warranty. I think less than 1% of cars ever make it to 200k, though I am sure that number is much higher in rural states like Iowa and points west just because we have to drive more to get anywhere.

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**MontuckyFried** · 04-27-2022, 08:50 PM

Originally Posted by uglymoney

Thanks Austin. I try. With three cars over 200k that seem to run pretty reliably I figure I am ahead of the national average at least. All of our cars were bought new, or nearly new (4R) and almost exclusively maintained by myself once out of warranty. I think less than 1% of cars ever make it to 200k, though I am sure that number is much higher in rural states like Iowa and points west just because we have to drive more to get anywhere.

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That's awesome. Judging by so many used cars I've seen, sadly too many people don't maintain their cars. Like at all. It's no wonder so many struggle to make it as far as ours have. Kudos for racking up so many miles. Better for the environment than treating them like a disposable commodity as so many do in our throwaway society.

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**BobMc** · 04-27-2022, 10:25 PM

Originally Posted by MontuckyFried

“stealerships”[/URL]

I don’t post directly in here much, but I usually try to help where I can. I’ve helped you with info before.

I worked at dealerships half of my automotive career. That term bugs the shit out of me, it’s like some cool dude internet forum thing. Like it’s a cool thing to call someone’s profession as crooks. It’s kinda like the people here that do the same with lawyers. Sure, some of the people here can work on their own vehicles, or handle their own divorces, most folks can’t. For the people that can’t we provide a service at a market driven price.

I really think you should buy the Saab, and it’s propensity to break the little bits. Have fun with parts…

Edit to add: It’s like the same internet dickbags that insist BMW’s are known as “bimmers” and adamantly argue with people about how the motorcycles are “beemers”, when in the 80’s the instructors in all my factory training classes called them Beemers.

**jamal** · 04-27-2022, 10:54 PM

You don't want to get called a stealership, don't go charging over msrp on parts or stick shit like "$7000 market adjustment" on window stickers.

**BobMc** · 04-27-2022, 11:30 PM

Ok, I can understand, you think all parts should be like a Honda generator, same price no matter where or how you buy it? (Honda and a few other examples are the unicorns in a free market)

What do you call the place you get food from? Stealercies? Pretty sure I can pay between 3-6 dollars for a package of Oscar Meyer hot dogs depending on which store I go to. Gas stations vary by a large amount in just city blocks, I don’t call them stealerstations.

The S in msrp isn’t a magical number all dealerships must adhere to, it’s a “suggested” price. Each business will determine their price to sell that part at depending on their needed level of profit. It’s called a business, not stealing. Consumers make a choice whether to frequent that business.

**gravitylover** · 04-28-2022, 12:25 AM

S = Suggested! I wish people would accept that...

**MontuckyFried** · 04-28-2022, 04:45 AM

Sorry, Bob. No disrespect or anything, but we ALL have our stories and reasons for despising [most, not all] car dealerships.

I've had amazing experiences with one of my Cadillac dealers, but painfully bad service with the rest.

How about the time I paid a diagnostics fee (ok, that's cool), was quoted thousands for the repair, and ends up it was a $0.05 fuse that any mechanic with half a brain would've checked first. Stealership. How about when the dealer wouldn't match their OWN price listed on their own website for a part, wanting to charge double retail. I literally got on my phone, bought the part on their website, and got the guy to fetch the part. Stealership. How about the countless times many of us had seen an advertised price from THEIR ads just to get bait and switched. Stealership.

Seriously. Screw most those guys. I know it's a business and their entire premise is to make money. Respect. That's fine. But blatant shenanigans are not ok either.

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**MontuckyFried** · 04-28-2022, 04:46 AM

Originally Posted by BobMc

I don’t post directly in here much, but I usually try to help where I can. I’ve helped you with info before.

I worked at dealerships half of my automotive career. That term bugs the shit out of me, it’s like some cool dude internet forum thing. Like it’s a cool thing to call someone’s profession as crooks. It’s kinda like the people here that do the same with lawyers. Sure, some of the people here can work on their own vehicles, or handle their own divorces, most folks can’t. For the people that can’t we provide a service at a market driven price.

I really think you should buy the Saab, and it’s propensity to break the little bits. Have fun with parts…

Edit to add: It’s like the same internet dickbags that insist BMW’s are known as “bimmers” and adamantly argue with people about how the motorcycles are “beemers”, when in the 80’s the instructors in all my factory training classes called them Beemers.

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