Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

[warthog]

I assume you mean coil, not solenoid? Does your distributor have a tap? I usually like white to orange as to retain the dimmer function .

Yeah that's the one. I have an MSD distributor from a 1970's F150 in there, poor man's HEI. Pretty sure it has what I need.

[warthog]

Looked it up- would need a tach box from MSD to make that work. Not sure what the advantage would be. I will try it on the negative of the ignition coil first. Fun weekend project along with my Bronco paint project that is full swing. Thank god the wife and kids are away at a dance comp this weekend. Lotsa plans.

[mcphee]

+2 for clamp on the column. As it should be

[warthog]

+2 for clamp on the column. As it should be

Noted. Not sure mine will work in that spot, maybe off to the side.
I got a smaller one, maybe the large was the way to go.

CJ-2A or M38?

[warthog]

Love it. Frankenstein wishes he looked so good.

[gravitylover]

My 60 CJ5 was very nicely built too. 225 odd fire with milled heads and some wacky intake with a huge 2 barrel progressive carb, Muncie M21(?), New Process tc, Dana 30 frt and 44 rear with 5.38s, Warn 27% OD, 3" Softride spring lift with Rancho 5000 shocks and a few other goodies. The thing was a beast (210hp to the wheels on a 4 wheel Dyno) and stupid fast 0-50 but that's about where it wound out. I could cruise all day at 55 @22mpg but could barely do 60 without getting shaken to pieces. I miss this thing big time

[mcphee]

Nice! Really makes you feel alive to be sitting on the fuel tank!

[allmountainsnowskating]

A little bit off the beat, but I just fixed the fridge and wanted to show 'er off.

My General Electric PFSS6PKWBSS refrigerator was getting warm spots in the freezer, and the ice maker melted out.

So I unplugged it, put all the food in coolers, and thawed it out just long enough that I could pry open the interior panel to look at the condenser coils. As I suspected, they were all frozen up.

From my research, one of these things was causing the issue:

1. Evaporator fan wasn't running.
2. Defrost heater bar directly under the evaporator coils was cracked and there wasn't electrical continuity through it.
3. Circuit board was fried and not giving power to the defrost heater bar.
4. Evaporator drain line was not draining correctly.

Fortunately for me, it was immediately obvious that the evaporator drain line wasn't draining because there was ice in the collection tray below the coils.

I popped the back panel off the fridge and first thing's first, vacuumed out all the dust bunnies to make her intake air more efficiently.

Chasing the drain line to the end, a "penny-whistle-mouthpiece shaped" rubber drip grommet had fused shut. The water in the drain line had backed up and frozen, and it gave my fridge some kind of stroke.

I popped the grommet off, poured some hot water down the drain line, it made a big "FLUSH" noise as it cleared, and shat out a bunch of weird gross water.

The coils were still iced up, so I had to wait about 24 hours for them to thaw out. It gave me some time to do some other checks.

1. The evaporator fan was working: magnet on the door sensor and listen to (the 2 of them) start spinning.
2. There was continuity through the heater bar: set multimeter to ohms, touch it to each end of the bar, and make sure it reads 0.
3. Replace the grommet with one that's widely available at any hardware store, of course.
3. If the circuit board was fried, it would ice back up in 2 weeks because it's not giving power to the heater bar, but it's been a bit over 2 weeks now, and she's running like a dream.


Yeah yeah easy fix, but I'm super happy right now that I don't have to pony up for a new fridge... or worse, invite some strange man into my home to charge me the equivalent of a new fridge to fix it.

That fridge is my favorite room in the house.

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[warthog]

My 60 CJ5 was very nicely built too. 225 odd fire with milled heads and some wacky intake with a huge 2 barrel progressive carb, Muncie M21(?), New Process tc, Dana 30 frt and 44 rear with 5.38s, Warn 27% OD, 3" Softride spring lift with Rancho 5000 shocks and a few other goodies. The thing was a beast (210hp to the wheels on a 4 wheel Dyno) and stupid fast 0-50 but that's about where it wound out. I could cruise all day at 55 @22mpg but could barely do 60 without getting shaken to pieces. I miss this thing big time

Mine will do 90 no problem, and it feels somewhat comfortable there. Then you wake up and hear the noises it makes and realize how stupid fast that is in a lunchbox, and you let off the gas.

[gravitylover]

Nice! Really makes you feel alive to be sitting on the fuel tank!

Haha. See that shiny muffler right under it? It had Hedman Stainless Headers and they dumped into Thrush mufflers with side exits. You can see it right in front of the back tire. That tank would get so fkn hot it scared me.

Mine will do 90 no problem, and it feels somewhat comfortable there. Then you wake up and hear the noises it makes and realize how stupid fast that is in a lunchbox, and you let off the gas.

5.38s in the diffs and a rock crusher 4 speed, what was yours?

[Touring_Sedan]

I see this ending well.

[gravitylover]

It'll be fun, they said...

[Aldo]

If the leaks not visible yet , it will be soon!


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[Touring_Sedan]

If the leaks not visible yet , it will be soon!


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Yup.

[Touring_Sedan]

Pros to owning a 22 year old eurobox with a following, getting your "fix" from your "supplier" in a random storage unit in Cottonwood Heights for $32.18.

[basinbeater]

Ack. Uro parts.... No.....

[fatnslow]

Ack. Uro parts.... No.....

I think Uro is Swedish for Chinese sheiit

[gravitylover]

It looks like a gasket and clip or hose end. How shitty could they be? I have no idea who Uro parts is...

[mcphee]

Ahhh, yes. The ol throttle body heater

[Touring_Sedan]

I think Uro is Swedish for Chinese sheiit

OK, Boomer.

[Touring_Sedan]

Ahhh, yes. The ol throttle body heater

Color me surprised it made it to 170K.

[gravitylover]

Is that where the coolant hose goes into the side of the throttle body? That's one of the ones I just had replaced and the gasket too as part of that whole mess.

[Aldo]

Color me surprised it made it to 170K.

This

[basinbeater]

OK, Boomer.

I don't know man... Pretty widely known in bmw circles, friends don't let friends use uro parts. Unless you are just tryin to get it fixed enough to sell it then it is someone else's problem waiting to happen.

I dug into the Merc today to swap out all 4 cam position sensors. Somehow they develop leaks in the sensor where it leaks out of the electrical pin connections come out of the plastic and then through capillary action, they oil makes its way along the harness to the ECU, then bad things happen. I caught mine early, 2 we're dry, one had a small amount of oil in the connector, and the last had a bit more, but the ECU connector is totally dry. Cleaned connectors and replaced all 4 sensors. Weird failure mode. First time hearing about this type of failure.
20 mins to do all 4. $230 in parts.

[gravitylover]

The tires on our 2012 Forester keep going low. It's not the tires it's the interface between the tires and wheels. After a week or two they'll go down as much as 10psi. The tire shops keep telling me it's the paint on the wheels, that it doesn't hold up well with road salts and shit so they have to push the tire off the rim, wipe it down, reinflate and then rebalance. I'm getting tired of spending $40 every few weeks to get it done. What can I do to stop this other than refinishing the wheels?