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  1. #2626
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    West Coast of the East Coast
    Posts
    7,754
    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    Why does everyone tell me not too rebuild and fix shit just replace with new. Why... Some stuff is supposed to be maintained. Right?

    I had symptoms of a bad PCM so I pulled it and opened it up. 4 spots showed corrosion/burning.
    I called around to find a new one, and they are like Unicorns. Had a place rebuild mine for $250- full lifetime warranty.
    2 day turnaround once I sent it to them.
    I would never attempt to rebuild something with a circuit board, but it is good to see there are still shops that rebuild stuff for reasonable rates.
    I am now calling them about the console temp/ compass which is not working. I bet they can repair that too, for way less than $250 I hope.
    If not, I will search out local electronics repair places to replace the blown solenoid or whatever is going on with it.
    Searched a couple junkyards online, but again, Unicorns.

  2. #2627
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Aspen, Colorado
    Posts
    2,645
    Quote Originally Posted by warthog View Post
    Anyone ever replaced an ignition key lock cylinder?
    Want step by step pics?
    I have to dive into this soon. The wandering random attempts to get the wheel to lock are pissing me off.
    I am told it is a simple job.
    Everything, so far (No Whammies) has been relatively simple with the Bronco, so I am hopeful.
    I did a 1999 4Runner lock last year. My problem wasn’t in the key tumbler part but in the part it turns. You still pull it all out though. Piece of cake with youtube

  3. #2628
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Granite, UT
    Posts
    2,343
    Quote Originally Posted by warthog View Post
    Anyone ever replaced an ignition key lock cylinder?
    Want step by step pics?
    I have to dive into this soon. The wandering random attempts to get the wheel to lock are pissing me off.
    I am told it is a simple job.
    Everything, so far (No Whammies) has been relatively simple with the Bronco, so I am hopeful.
    Is it on the Bronco? If so, I think I did it on my 89 F-150 decades ago. I think all you need is the key and a screwdriver to push up the locking pin on the underside of the column.

    I've also had pretty good luck re-soldering the circuit board on overhead Ford truck consoles. It'd be worth a try.

  4. #2629
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    West Coast of the East Coast
    Posts
    7,754
    Yup, Bronco.
    There is a certain capacitor or solenoid or transistor or whatever that is notorious for going bad in these consoles.
    It works every once in a while. Sneaks up on you, like ... "Hmm- what is different... Holy Shit that thing works." Then it dies again.
    I am hopeful it is a pretty easy fix, just gotta find some hole in the wall electronics guy that will probably fix it in 10 minutes.

    Good news on the lock cylinder. I have the Haynes, just have to dig in and figure it out. Going with OEM since it lasted since '95 the first time.

  5. #2630
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    driven way past the Stop and Shop
    Posts
    3,068
    Quote Originally Posted by warthog View Post
    Anyone ever replaced an ignition key lock cylinder?
    Want step by step pics?
    I have to dive into this soon. The wandering random attempts to get the wheel to lock are pissing me off.
    I am told it is a simple job.
    Everything, so far (No Whammies) has been relatively simple with the Bronco, so I am hopeful.
    Did it on an 02 Dakota a few years ago. Not particularly difficult. Tricky part was rekeying the tumblers so the new ignition matched the door lock. Pretty sure I got all of the guidance necessary on the Utube.
    Damn, we're in a tight spot!

  6. #2631
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    11,827
    I did it in my 06 Durango. The hardest part was getting the brittle old plastic bits on and off without breaking them. Heheh my original key worked just fine in the new cylinder. They weren't quite the same but I guess it was close enough. Saved me having to get new fobs and getting them cut.
    Last edited by gravitylover; 06-23-2021 at 05:20 PM.

  7. #2632
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    11,827
    I've got a heckuva list of things done and coming up. I had to change the sway links because the front end was rolling into turns really badly and when they came out the ball joints were held in by some plastic clips and one was disintegrated already. When I went to take the bolt off the ball joint the whole thing came apart in my hand. Between that and the new rear shocks it's SO much better to drive now Unfortunately there are still a bunch of things to be done, one that has it completely disabled until the parts show up, there is a $22 seal where the harness plugs into the transmission oil pan that's leaky. No big deal just change the thing and go right? No. ZF decided to put the release inside so the pan has to be dropped. Turns a 20 minute job into 3 hours and ~$500. Uggh There's also the block in the AC lines so it's starting to look like at least a partial system teardown to deal with it. All in all nothing too unexpected for a 15 year old truck that lived in the salt and humid zone but it's taking longer than I had hoped for everything to come to light and show itself.

  8. #2633
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Granite, UT
    Posts
    2,343
    Update. Spent about an hour under the hood and the dash. This was the only thing I came up with. Hopefully after 22 years, it was just a little low? I'm gonna go with that.


  9. #2634
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    The Mayonnaisium
    Posts
    10,512
    Is it possible the schrader is leaking? I feel like someone told me caps in good condition are important, too.

  10. #2635
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Granite, UT
    Posts
    2,343
    Quote Originally Posted by Mazderati View Post
    Is it possible the schrader is leaking? I feel like someone told me caps in good condition are important, too.
    I am hopefully optimistic that stain is just because that's where I put the dye in.

  11. #2636
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Montrose, CO
    Posts
    4,658
    The valves can leak. Roll with that cautious optimism and if it goes low on charge again I'd start with replacing the valves.

  12. #2637
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    2,292
    I had a buddy decide that after a few beers and whiskey was the perfect time to get my opinion on a noise his land rover(d110 actually Santana) was making. Somehow that turned into a 2 hour romp with me driving it through a bunch of old mining roads/2 tracks. Afterwards he proceeds to tell me he only put it into 4low for the first time the day before and that was the roughest "road" it's been on. That thing was a blast to drive with that little torquey diesel. Even found some warm Rainer that he forgot about in center console.

    Also it was prob just belt whine and/or pulley(s).

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using TGR Forums mobile app

  13. #2638
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    you see a tie dye disc in there?
    Posts
    4,677
    ^^^i'll take that piece of shit off his hands, lets talk over whiskey

  14. #2639
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    11,827
    Tranny is done and much smoother, gonna give it a highway run today to make sure but it feels good. I got the cost way down when I found FCP Euro, they had the tranny fluid for $10/ltr less than anywhere else and when you need 12 that's a nice chunk o' $$. It doesn't hurt that they're 45 minutes from home so I could pick it up and save 5 days waiting for UPS to get it to me but with free shipping at $49 they're a good resource if you need Euro car bits and pieces and they're a big Liqui Moly distributor too.

    Now it's on to the AC. It shouldn't be any big deal right? Yeah... Finding someone who actually understands auto AC is impossible, pretty much every shop I've spoken to just throws the parts book at it and hopes for the best. Literally every one of them said "It's the compressor. Start there and see what happens." Nobody will even look for the block in the system (which is most likely in the condenser or expansion valve) they just shoot for the hardest to replace and most expensive part of the system. The other thing is even finding someone that will work on it, even the euro indy shops aren't interested. I did find two that will look at it but they're booked until the first week of August. 100 degrees and humid sux without AC. First world problems...

  15. #2640
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,282
    Inherited a 2000 Acura tl from my brother and experienced some warm crank/no start. Initially replaced main relay and cts but it still had another no start. Since my kids drive it and don't want to deal with tow or rescue calls at 3 am just replaced the fuel pump cartridge. Surprisingly easy, $75 for Denso pump and 45 minutes later I'll sleep uninterrupted.
    The only unsure thing is their is a major recall for japanese car manufacturers with faulty Denso pumps.....Hoping Rockauto is reputable enough NOT to send out recalled parts.

  16. #2641
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    11,827
    Why do car parts have to fail just because they're old? Fuck. Another disabling issue for a $50 part.

    I need a higher lift jack Long travel suspension and real ground clearance... @Aldo - why does your shop have to be 45 miles away

  17. #2642
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    The Garden State
    Posts
    4,775
    I say the same thing about the Utica Club demarcation line....

    what now?

  18. #2643
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    11,827
    Quote Originally Posted by Aldo View Post
    I say the same thing about the Utica Club demarcation line....

    what now?
    Lol. Drivers side rear caliper applied itself on the highway this afternoon. When I got home a few minutes later and touched the wheel I burned my fingertip. I had a feeling that's what it was when my gas mileage went from a happy 17mpg to 8 and I had to wind up the supercharger to keep the thing moving.

  19. #2644
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Ellensburg
    Posts
    1,244
    Jeep XJ started clunking when I accelerate after having some exhaust work done... Motor mounts and trans mount are looking pretty sad and I think the exhaust move a little and is hitting the cross member. I ordered new mounts... Crawled under to hit everything with PB blaster before going to town and realized 1 of 2 bolts that secure the mount to the transmission is sheared off, or more likely snapped off by the PO, part of bolt is still stuck in the trans.

    I give up, taking it in to the shop tomorrow. Maybe I could get it out in 30 minutes, maybe 2 days. I don't want to find out.

    Sent from my BND-L24 using Tapatalk

  20. #2645
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    On Vacation for the Duration
    Posts
    14,373
    My 2000 Jeep TJ has developed new quirk. Every once in a while the red airbag indicator light comes on and the tach and speedo needles drop to zero. So far, few bongo slaps on the dash and all is good again. Probably a ground. But which ground? And where is it?

    Also, how long does it take for a check engine lightbulb to burn out? Going on two years now.
    A few people feel the rain. Most people just get wet.

  21. #2646
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Ellensburg
    Posts
    1,244
    On the 2000 XJ I believe the instrument panel is grounded on the diagonal dash brace to the left of the steering column, and it's a poor ground facilitated by a self tapping sheet metal screw. Could be similar on your TJ...

    Sent from my BND-L24 using Tapatalk

  22. #2647
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    West Coast of the East Coast
    Posts
    7,754
    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    Lol. Drivers side rear caliper applied itself on the highway this afternoon. When I got home a few minutes later and touched the wheel I burned my fingertip. I had a feeling that's what it was when my gas mileage went from a happy 17mpg to 8 and I had to wind up the supercharger to keep the thing moving.
    I always carry an infrared temp gun in my trucks. Mostly used when I trailer stuff. I shoot the temp at every gas stop. Lets me know very early if I am about to lose hub bearings, or if I need to shoot some more grease in there.

  23. #2648
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Almost Mountains
    Posts
    1,897
    Quote Originally Posted by warthog View Post
    I always carry an infrared temp gun in my trucks. Mostly used when I trailer stuff. I shoot the temp at every gas stop. Lets me know very early if I am about to lose hub bearings, or if I need to shoot some more grease in there.
    Also a decent way to keep an eye on your pressures for wheels without TPMS.

    Sent from my SM-G892A using TGR Forums mobile app

  24. #2649
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Granite, UT
    Posts
    2,343
    Quote Originally Posted by anotherVTskibum View Post
    Also a decent way to keep an eye on your pressures for wheels without TPMS.

    Sent from my SM-G892A using TGR Forums mobile app
    TF? How about a tire gauge? So you really check your tire pressures with a temp gun?

  25. #2650
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    697
    Quote Originally Posted by YourMomJustCalled View Post
    TF? How about a tire gauge? So you really check your tire pressures with a temp gun?
    A tire that's low will run hot. That's not a replacement for a tire gage, but it's a quick indicator of a problem

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