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  1. #1151
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
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    driven way past the Stop and Shop
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    I’ve had pretty good luck with the Tekton brand 1/2 and 3/8 torque wrenches I bought after the harbor freight Pittsburgh wrench I bought crapped out. Fairly cheap seem accurate. If I need something that Goes past 150 lbs I borrow one from Auto Zone (like for axle hub nuts).

    Thinking about getting a quarter inch one though. Mostly for accurate torque at low foot pounds.
    Damn, we're in a tight spot!

  2. #1152
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    1,007
    Quote Originally Posted by bodywhomper View Post
    Thanks. The tool that I really need is a torque wrench. Looking for recommendations. Don’t wanna break the bank. Car wrenching and would probably use on my bike. I grew up with the kind that’s similar/same as what I also used on the old vermont binding tester. Thx!
    not the same tool. the only need for one on vehicles would be old wheel bearing preload and head gaskets. anything else is overkill

  3. #1153
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
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    Meiss Meadows
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    Quote Originally Posted by bodywhomper View Post
    Thanks. The tool that I really need is a torque wrench. Looking for recommendations. Don’t wanna break the bank. Car wrenching and would probably use on my bike. I grew up with the kind that’s similar/same as what I also used on the old vermont binding tester. Thx!
    Please, please, please use that torque wrench on your spark plugs. The aluminum head strips So easily. And thread inserts don’t last.

    Seriously, torque wrench on Every bolt going into an aluminum part (having just helicoiled a clutch hole in a Z flywheel, I am feeling sensitive.)

    A Good torque wrench is cheap insurance.

  4. #1154
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
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    2,356
    Quote Originally Posted by powdrhound View Post
    Please, please, please use that torque wrench on your spark plugs. The aluminum head strips So easily. And thread inserts don’t last.
    Yup, I was gonna say.

    I like having two torque wrenches, an inch-pounds one for stuff looser than spark plugs, and a foot-pounds one for stuff tighter than spark plugs (use either one for spark plugs). For lug nuts, I just stand on a breaker bar; I can eyeball the "foot" part, and I know the "pounds" part.

  5. #1155
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    8,963
    Thanks all.

  6. #1156
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Granite, UT
    Posts
    2,294
    Say what you will about Harbor Freight tools, but I've found their torque wrenches to be pretty decent. Get a 1/4 for bike stuff, other than your crankset, there isn't much on a bike that you need a larger wrench for. I use the 1/2 inch for lug nuts. If you want to spend your cash on a good wrench, drop it on a 3/8 inch wrench. I've found that Craftsman still makes a decent wrench. They're typically available at most Ace Hardware stores.

  7. #1157
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    6,388
    I pushed right through a 1/2 inch HF socket wrench and pounded my knuckles pretty good on a ujoint. Didn't expect the 1/2 inch to give up that easy.

  8. #1158
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
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    driven way past the Stop and Shop
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    Plastic gears in my HF 1/2 torque wrench spit teeth for a while before becoming useless. In retrospect I’m not sure how accurate it was either.
    Damn, we're in a tight spot!

  9. #1159
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    6,388
    Wasn't a torque, but sorry to hear that cause I bought a 3/8 and 1/2 torque on sale. Oh well, the 1/2 busted busting rusty ujoint caps with a press so hopefully the torque will fare better for installations.

  10. #1160
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    8,963
    Quote Originally Posted by powdrhound View Post
    Please, please, please use that torque wrench on your spark plugs. The aluminum head strips So easily. And thread inserts don’t last.

    Seriously, torque wrench on Every bolt going into an aluminum part (having just helicoiled a clutch hole in a Z flywheel, I am feeling sensitive.)

    A Good torque wrench is cheap insurance.
    Did you notice my upthread issues related to destroyed 2uz-fe motor on my land cruiser from that issue? It wasn’t a problem created by me or my mechanic or a friend, but stripped threads on the alu head from a misthreaded or over torqued spark plug sure did suck and was pretty damn expensive (though cheaper than a new uzj100).

    Lucky for me, the closest HF is pretty far away and the local ace is, well, local.

  11. #1161
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
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    11,766
    I have to change the rear hub bearings on my car this weekend and was planning on using my HF torque wrench to make sure the axle nuts are done right at 140. So you're all saying I should go buy a better one? Shit, that's gonna hurt the wallet I'm trying to save well north of $400 on labor so bought a few things I didn't have and got the parts for $250 less than any shop wanted so I'm still coming out ahead but damn...

  12. #1162
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
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    driven way past the Stop and Shop
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    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    I have to change the rear hub bearings on my car this weekend and was planning on using my HF torque wrench to make sure the axle nuts are done right at 140. So you're all saying I should go buy a better one? Shit, that's gonna hurt the wallet I'm trying to save well north of $400 on labor so bought a few things I didn't have and got the parts for $250 less than any shop wanted so I'm still coming out ahead but damn...
    No man, go down to Auto Zone and use their tool lending service. I borrowed a 1/2 torque wrench that goes up to 250 ft. Lbs when I did my last Subaru wheel bearing. It carried the “OEM” brand name. The way they handle it iis you essentially buy and return the tool. I’ve borrowed a number of specialty tools that didn’t make sense to buy (like an inner tie rod wrench for example.)

    https://www.autozone.com/tools-and-e...t/loan-a-tools
    Damn, we're in a tight spot!

  13. #1163
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Granite, UT
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    2,294
    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    I have to change the rear hub bearings on my car this weekend and was planning on using my HF torque wrench to make sure the axle nuts are done right at 140. So you're all saying I should go buy a better one? Shit, that's gonna hurt the wallet I'm trying to save well north of $400 on labor so bought a few things I didn't have and got the parts for $250 less than any shop wanted so I'm still coming out ahead but damn...
    The harbor freight on is fine. I'm calling bullshit on the other poster who said his 1/2 wrench internals were plastic. Don't over think this.

  14. #1164
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    you see a tie dye disc in there?
    Posts
    4,651
    Quote Originally Posted by Obstruction View Post
    No man, go down to Auto Zone and use their tool lending service. I borrowed a 1/2 torque wrench that goes up to 250 ft. Lbs when I did my last Subaru wheel bearing. It carried the “OEM” brand name. The way they handle it iis you essentially buy and return the tool. I’ve borrowed a number of specialty tools that didn’t make sense to buy (like an inner tie rod wrench for example.)

    https://www.autozone.com/tools-and-e...t/loan-a-tools
    This

  15. #1165
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Meiss Meadows
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    2,031
    16” breaker bar

    180lb body

    Stand at ~ 10” = real close to 140’#

  16. #1166
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
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    driven way past the Stop and Shop
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    Quote Originally Posted by YourMomJustCalled View Post
    The harbor freight on is fine. I'm calling bullshit on the other poster who said his 1/2 wrench internals were plastic. Don't over think this.
    Well being as I took the HF wrench apart and cleared the debris out of it I’m willing to testify that they were definitely some sort of plastic yer honor. (Head is held together by 4 tiny ass Phillips screws)
    Damn, we're in a tight spot!

  17. #1167
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
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    Southeast New York
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    Quote Originally Posted by powdrhound View Post
    16” breaker bar

    180lb body

    Stand at ~ 10” = real close to 140’#
    You're comfortable standing on that with a car on jack stands? I dunno bout that...

  18. #1168
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    Oct 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    You're comfortable standing on that with a car on jack stands? I dunno bout that...
    Sure. I’m not jumping, just applying torque.

  19. #1169
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    you see a tie dye disc in there?
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    4,651
    Last Saturday was firestone airbags for towing the camper
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Today was OVTune
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    crap, software pioed, better reboot

  20. #1170
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    8,963
    Quote Originally Posted by hawkgt View Post
    Last Saturday was firestone airbags for towing the camper
    Where’d you put the valves for the airbags?

  21. #1171
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
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    11,766
    Shit shit shit. The first one went well, the second not so much. When I started pulling the hub it came apart rather than coming out. Now I have the inner part stuck in the backing plate. I just ran out to the hardware store to get some extra bolts to put in from the back and start pounding on them. I'm hesitant to soak it in PB because I don't want to get that all over the e-brake pads and hardware.

  22. #1172
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    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
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    Fucketyfuck. Nightmare scenario

  23. #1173
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    19,201
    Nothing is fucked dude.

  24. #1174
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
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    Yeah I know there's a solution I just didn't have the right tools and it was getting cold and dark so my patience wore pretty thin.

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    First pic is the one that went well, second is the one that's f'd. The front part of the hub came apart from the base and it's so stuck in there now. The base of the hub presses into that backing plate and likes where it lives. Ideas? I have 4 bolts that fit those threaded holes so can put them in and pull from the front but can't get in there to pound it out from the back. I'm also kinda sketched to hit it too hard. It's soaking in PB Blaster so maybe when I go back at it in the morning it will be easier. I'm not sure where to add some heat either. I went above my pay grade on this one

  25. #1175
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
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    driven way past the Stop and Shop
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    You’re almost there. Try slipping a cold chisel behind the dust sheild& housing and the knuckle and strike down on it very sharply. One on each side alternating blows. I get that you’re reluctant to get busy on that thing but that’s the only thing it’s goint to respect. I pounded on one Of those bitches like it owed me money before it came off. Make sure your jack stand is secure, deadman a wheel underneath it and add the jack on that side just to make sure. .

    Keep at it it’ll go.
    Damn, we're in a tight spot!

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