Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

[warthog]

Zen like pleasure working on the hood in the sun at 75 deg.
I got the hood stripped and primed. The 3 cans of Flame Red paint will be here Monday. Then I'll sand the primer with 400 grit and lay on the red. Weather looks goo for the next 7 days.
Attachment 430036
45 Degree nights and constant a constant rain of pine needles. I made a shelter and warmed the hood to 60deg+ with a hair dryer.
Attachment 430037
And here we are.
Attachment 430038

Bonus scene.

I have the opposite problem. Too hot, too humid. When we get a stretch of low humidity and lower temps, I have the paint stuff ready to go. Getting closer to that time of year. Right now we get on and off high and mid temps. Waiting on that rare stretch of low humidity, lower temps, and no wind. Once I get that, it is on.

[SumJongGuy]

I replaced the rear bearings on my old BRZ, the passenger side popped right out and took about an hour in total. The driver's side was hours and hours of pounding, heating, pulling and generally fucked attempts at removal before I broke down and called a mobile mechanic for help. We ended up using an electric hammer to punch it out from the back side, put the nuts on a few threads and start wailing on it with a blunt tip. 5 minutes of that and it popped out.

Ya OK 2nd opinion, this time a highly recommended local indie shop came back with a very similar story as Midas.. They said that the bearing and hub assembly can be frozen/stuck to the "dust shield and knuckle".. and that adds a lot more labor to the job if it happens. Quoted $1200-$1500 before tax on rear bearings.. 09 Forester.

No more time to jack around going shop to shop.. Eating this one at that price and will keep asking around for other local options next time something is obviously fucked and needing pretty immediate repair behond Midas stuff.. (brakes, exhaust, suspension)..

[fatnslow]

Ya OK 2nd opinion, this time a highly recommended local indie shop came back with a very similar story as Midas.. They said that the bearing and hub assembly can be frozen/stuck to the "dust shield and knuckle".. and that adds a lot more labor to the job if it happens. Quoted $1200-$1500 before tax on rear bearings.. 09 Forester.

No more time to jack around going shop to shop.. Eating this one at that price and will keep asking around for other local options next time something is obviously fucked and needing pretty immediate repair behond Midas stuff.. (brakes, exhaust, suspension)..

why not order the whole assembly from a west coast junkyard then have the hub/bearing replaced ? This sounds like a regional issue with rust/road salt.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/304275640330

[SumJongGuy]

why not order the whole assembly from a west coast junkyard then have the hub/bearing replaced ? This sounds like a regional issue with rust/road salt.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/304275640330

We have the hub bearing assembly available. The parts are less than $150. . I live in flatlandia.. Only road salt I see is on my 3-4 ski trips and rare snow down here.

It's the labor and possibly the dust shield supply, (that I think has to be new/replaced if it comes off the knuckle) that are the problem

As for the knuckle you posted..
"This item is out of stock." per the link.. That seems to be the problem as well..

[Todd Zander]

Also good chance the lower control arms mounting bolt is frozen in the knuckle as well, that usually gets cut out with a torch.

These dont just bolt onto the knuckle like everyone thinks they do

[Obstruction]

Ya OK 2nd opinion, this time a highly recommended local indie shop came back with a very similar story as Midas.. They said that the bearing and hub assembly can be frozen/stuck to the "dust shield and knuckle".. and that adds a lot more labor to the job if it happens. Quoted $1200-$1500 before tax on rear bearings.. 09 Forester.

No more time to jack around going shop to shop.. Eating this one at that price and will keep asking around for other local options next time something is obviously fucked and needing pretty immediate repair behond Midas stuff.. (brakes, exhaust, suspension)..

I’ve done a half dozen of these on an 07 outback and a 14 Forester. All but one was a serious whore of a job. If I was going to do it again I’d buy one of these bearing buster bars.

Another useful trick is to undue the hub assembly part way and whale on the heads of the bolts with a good size drift punch and a BFH if you can get room to swing it.

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Whe...=pla-114471272

[SumJongGuy]

Also good chance the lower control arms mounting bolt is frozen in the knuckle as well, that usually gets cut out with a torch.

These dont just bolt onto the knuckle like everyone thinks they do

Thanks. When they threw the $1500 number at me I asked them if that was "worst case scenario" and if that could go down if things come apart smoothly instead of adventurous..

Made me more confident that the 3 guys at Midas (that's the whole shop right now) weren't as far off base there as we through.

However this new indy shop also recommended a bunch of other shit I've already confirmed is good. Some of it was just done last week.. Filters, cabin and engine, both done this month.. Struts... checked and deemed good enough for now.. Power steering pump... dealer tried to tell me it was about to fail 5 years ago.. I disagreed and hasn't needed a drop of fluid since.. checked and good last week when we pulled the serpentine an checked everything during the compressor engine drain expedition.

So, I'm letting them deal with the bearings and hoping they don't make it worse.. Going to try another shop next time I run in to something beyond Midas' core competencies. Honestly I had two shops recommended and this one is a lot closer... Kinda bummed they're a little sketchy as well..

[Cisco Kid]

Time to shop for a shop is before you need them. My MO is to give a small job to an owner run op as a test. If they don't screw it up or try to sell me a brake line flush, I stop by occasionally with donuts. Now I have a friend who fixes cars. Shops appreciate customers who bring them all their work, I was told.

[gravitylover]

I’ve done a half dozen of these on an 07 outback and a 14 Forester. All but one was a serious whore of a job. If I was going to do it again I’d buy one of these bearing buster bars.

Another useful trick is to undue the hub assembly part way and whale on the heads of the bolts with a good size drift punch and a BFH if you can get room to swing it.

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Whe...=pla-114471272

In my limited experience with Subaru hubs what I learned is if the car is high enough off the ground that you can get in there with a bfh just leave those bolts in and go to town. I used old bolts from my parts drawer and we used an electric hammer the mobile guy had and it came out pretty easily. Later I asked a few other local mechanics and they said they never use a puller, they just hammer them out because it never takes more than a few minutes.

[SumJongGuy]

Time to shop for a shop is before you need them. My MO is to give a small job to an owner run op as a test. If they don't screw it up or try to sell me a brake line flush, I stop by occasionally with donuts. Now I have a friend who fixes cars. Shops appreciate customers who bring them all their work, I was told.

We had a good shop for gnarly stuff. The owner retired and shut it down. Found that data when this fiasco ramped up.. The current place was recommended by someone else who used our other shop.. And ya these fools recommended the brake flush too... All 4 rotors and pads were replaced Friday. .. like 3 days ago.. along with a bunch of other stuff on their "you need" standard checklist that I do my own fucking basic maintenance filters and shit list.. So fuck that place.. But let them have fun with the bearing hubs first.. I might have saved $500 by shopping around more though.. Just ready to get this shit done. I'll have to be going to work at the office again a couple times a week starting this week so I NEED the car. It's there at a shop now, third time at a shop this month. Tired of jacking around on this one last remaining semi major issue..

[SumJongGuy]

And now the 09 Forester's sitting on the lift in pieces "waiting for parts" to arrive. ETA "a couple days". Guessing it's the dust caps and possibly a knuckle or two. Seemingly like hen's teeth for an 09 Forester right now Midas was right.. See plenty for 09 Impreza, Legacy, SVX, but not Forester.

[Cisco Kid]

Took me 10 days to get Flame Red paint. Non of the auto stores had it. Hope it kinda matches.

[Timberridge]

This is a good overview of the worst engines made:

[fatnslow]

Nephew is looking for a Subaru under $11K and asking for some advice. What years AREN'T effected with the HG time bomb or are they all going to fail due to the design ? Any insight about what to look out for is appreciated.

[MontuckyFried]

Nephew is looking for a Subaru under $11K and asking for some advice. What years AREN'T effected with the HG time bomb or are they all going to fail due to the design ? Any insight about what to look out for is appreciated.

Hoo boy. These days? Any Subaru under that budget, just plan on a head gasket job in it's future. Make sure he has enough for the car AND the inevitable job. OCCASIONALLY you can luck out and find some that have had the job recently done, but seems people hang on to them a long time post-op.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using TGR Forums mobile app

[fatnslow]

Hoo boy. These days? Any Subaru under that budget, just plan on a head gasket job in it's future. Make sure he has enough for the car AND the inevitable job. OCCASIONALLY you can luck out and find some that have had the job recently done, but seems people hang on to them a long time post-op.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using TGR Forums mobile app

That's what I'm seeing. The shop my cousin uses in Boulder sells Subarus as well so it's on the list to look for cars. Looks like they buy cars from customers that don't have cash to repair then flip them after repair. I personally HATE them but it's not my choice.

[Timberridge]

That's what I'm seeing. The shop my cousin uses in Boulder sells Subarus as well so it's on the list to look for cars. Looks like they buy cars from customers that don't have cash to repair then flip them after repair. I personally HATE them but it's not my choice.

That's the thing on cars with known problems that are fixable like Subie hg's, it can be a good deal if you are aware of the issues lurking in the weeds and can roll that into the price. There's other engines on that video I posted that I wouldn't touch though.

Porsche with IMS bearing issue? Price it accordingly, get it fixed, and you have a great car.

On Ducati's there's a expensive desmo valve service, and they are sold right before the service by guys who don't want to deal with it. Grab one at the right price and have the service done.

[SumJongGuy]

I'd wager that anything well over 100K that hasn't blown up and been properly maintained with the super cool and conditioner goo is probably good for another 50K at least on that font. If it's gonna blow it will have blown... and yes, a lot did and still are. Now one that's blown and been replaced and is back up around 50K again?? Humm, that's more of a gamble..

[MontuckyFried]

That's the thing on cars with known problems that are fixable like Subie hg's, it can be a good deal if you are aware of the issues lurking in the weeds and can roll that into the price. There's other engines on that video I posted that I wouldn't touch though.

Porsche with IMS bearing issue? Price it accordingly, get it fixed, and you have a great car.

On Ducati's there's a expensive desmo valve service, and they are sold right before the service by guys who don't want to deal with it. Grab one at the right price and have the service done.

ABSOLUTELY!!! Well at least that used to be the case, though. With this wacky used car market unfortunately, people seem to be demanding top dollar even with the underlying inevitable services. Especially in a market like CO, a high mileage Subaru with a HG around the corner WILL be sold to some unsuspecting sucker at top dollar.

I'd wager that anything well over 100K that hasn't blown up and been properly maintained with the super cool and conditioner goo is probably good for another 50K at least on that font. If it's gonna blow it will have blown... and yes, a lot did and still are. Now one that's blown and been replaced and is back up around 50K again?? Humm, that's more of a gamble..

So Subaru super coolant and conditioner is the secret formula, eh? Good to know!

[Ted Striker]

Subaru head gaskets are a feature, not a bug. The oil drinkers were subaru's real faux pas.

When the guy on the video was talking about the 3VZE, the pic was the wrong engine.

But yes, the original factory head gaskets weren't up to the task. Though a fully sorted one - which means fix the breathing issues that cause both the HG failure, and sludge - will go a quarter million miles (ask me how I know). That said, they had shit power, and the 5VZ-FE is better in every way. Take care of it, and you could go a half million no prob.

[MontuckyFried]

Speaking of head gaskets, my adventure has continued post-surgery. Been a total PITA, being one thing after the other. First, the PCV breather tube (that I had JUST put on) had cracked, leaking oil all over the cam cover. Coincided with an oil filler o-ring that was also cracked, so oil was coming in from both of those angles, then dripping down the back. Easy fixes, cleaned everything up and replaced those parts, good to go. Or so I thought. The VVT solenoid then decided to go bad on me. Cleaned it (it was clogged), then it tripped a code again and was leaking oil. Was stuck, and I couldn't activate it any further with a battery. Was dead. Swapped that part. No more oil leak there. No more code. Sweet! THEN oil sprayed all over the bottom of the car, but only did it on the highway. Jacked it up, cleaned up the whole undercarriage. Couldn't get it to do it again when parked. Another highway drive, and it did it again. Cleaned up AGAIN and I found the culprit (thanks to some help from a forum), twas a turbo oil return pipe seal that had failed. Ends up the part I ordered was close, but wrong! Coincided with yet ANOTHER leak being my camshaft plugs. Both of them. Think they were defective or they got knicked putting them in. Swapped both of those and that turbo seal with ones from the dealer, and I think we're FINALLY good now. Fingers crossed.

Parts guy at the dealer made me feel better about it though. He said every time there's a big service like a HG, that there are ALWAYS tons of kinks to iron out afterward since it's so invasive and even new parts can fail sometimes. One of the things that customers normally don't realize since it's such a big job and so these repeat portions are baked into it since they had to pay for these parts anyway, so when they fail, it gets swapped again. A total pain for the techs. I just had exceptionally bad luck this time. Starting to realize why so many shops around town refused this job to begin with. NOT recommended. Time to do it again though!!! Let's GOOOOOOOO!!!! #GLUTTONFORPUNISHMENT

[Timberridge]

Jezzus.

[fatnslow]

Speaking of head gaskets, my adventure has continued post-surgery. Been a total PITA, being one thing after the other. First, the PCV breather tube (that I had JUST put on) had cracked, leaking oil all over the cam cover. Coincided with an oil filler o-ring that was also cracked, so oil was coming in from both of those angles, then dripping down the back. Easy fixes, cleaned everything up and replaced those parts, good to go. Or so I thought. The VVT solenoid then decided to go bad on me. Cleaned it (it was clogged), then it tripped a code again and was leaking oil. Was stuck, and I couldn't activate it any further with a battery. Was dead. Swapped that part. No more oil leak there. No more code. Sweet! THEN oil sprayed all over the bottom of the car, but only did it on the highway. Jacked it up, cleaned up the whole undercarriage. Couldn't get it to do it again when parked. Another highway drive, and it did it again. Cleaned up AGAIN and I found the culprit (thanks to some help from a forum), twas a turbo oil return pipe seal that had failed. Ends up the part I ordered was close, but wrong! Coincided with yet ANOTHER leak being my camshaft plugs. Both of them. Think they were defective or they got knicked putting them in. Swapped both of those and that turbo seal with ones from the dealer, and I think we're FINALLY good now. Fingers crossed.

Parts guy at the dealer made me feel better about it though. He said every time there's a big service like a HG, that there are ALWAYS tons of kinks to iron out afterward since it's so invasive and even new parts can fail sometimes. One of the things that customers normally don't realize since it's such a big job and so these repeat portions are baked into it since they had to pay for these parts anyway, so when they fail, it gets swapped again. A total pain for the techs. I just had exceptionally bad luck this time. Starting to realize why so many shops around town refused this job to begin with. NOT recommended. Time to do it again though!!! Let's GOOOOOOOO!!!! #GLUTTONFORPUNISHMENT

This is how become Mr. Miagi of Volvo HG jobs ONE painful o ring/seal leak at a time. Been following you on the other site and hoping the best for your leak situation.

[Ted Striker]

Mr. Miagi

"parts on, parts off"

[highangle]

Nephew is looking for a Subaru under $11K and asking for some advice. What years AREN'T effected with the HG time bomb or are they all going to fail due to the design ? Any insight about what to look out for is appreciated.

It's the 2.5l engine that lays waste to all that mankind has yet devised to seal the intense fury of its hellish fires.

The unopposed flat-4 2.2 that predated it will go and go until it needs struts, axles [instead of CV joints, you just swap axles] & brakes. They're getting mighty old tho...