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  1. #1926
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    San Juan Islands, WA.
    Posts
    1,189
    Finally got to do the cam and lifters in my '77 C20 this weekend, It has 125,000 miles on it and found the badly stretched original timing chain still there but it was the cleanest mid 70's engine I've taken apart. I was told the former owner religiously changed the oil at 3,000 miles and it showed, valve covers were dirty but no sludge anywhere. I didn't realize how little power the truck had, It wasn't as slow as my Volvo 245 but not by much. Now it's surprisingly quick, has no more oil leaks, and sounds 100% better.Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #1927
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    907
    Posts
    15,693
    What kind of oil did you put back in that pushrod engine?

  3. #1928
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    San Juan Islands, WA.
    Posts
    1,189
    Napa 10-30 with a zinc additive for the cam. Valvoline makes Napa oil, I've been using it since I moved here and have been happy with it (and it's half the price of other oil here).

  4. #1929
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    454
    No in-process pictures, but threw these on a few weeks ago. Did an okay job of cutting up the rocker trim other than doing them differently at the front on each side. I'll go back and make them match one of these days. This morning I'm tackling the IACV on the RSX which should be pretty easy but make a big difference.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  5. #1930
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    907
    Posts
    15,693
    Quote Originally Posted by refried View Post
    Napa 10-30 with a zinc additive for the cam. Valvoline makes Napa oil, I've been using it since I moved here and have been happy with it (and it's half the price of other oil here).


    I like Napa oil too, and love it when it goes on sale. Was checking if you used STP or some other additive to replace the zinc they're taking out of motor oils these days.

    I bought another bottle of Archoil 9100 for The Legend. The hex boron nitride in Archoil is supposed to be a better EP and wear additive than ZDDP, so I'll add it to new Delo XSP 5w40, which has low zinc/phos but better shear resistance than T6 or Mobil 1 TDT. [The 7.3 PSD is famous for shearing down oil.]

    Truck runs smooth with it, so it's got to be doing some good. Maybe even $45 worth per oil change...

  6. #1931
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    slc
    Posts
    17,971
    Replaced the passenger side mirror on my truck yesterday. Fairly simple job that is only noteworthy because of why I had to do it. I was driving alongside a large Northern California lake last week at around 60 mph when a bald eagle flew out of the trees, straight into the side of the truck, and snapped the mirror clean off. The eagle flew away--I have no idea if it's still alive but it did not die on the spot.

  7. #1932
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    San Juan Islands, WA.
    Posts
    1,189
    Quote Originally Posted by highangle View Post
    I like Napa oil too, and love it when it goes on sale. Was checking if you used STP or some other additive to replace the zinc they're taking out of motor oils these days.

    I bought another bottle of Archoil 9100 for The Legend. The hex boron nitride in Archoil is supposed to be a better EP and wear additive than ZDDP, so I'll add it to new Delo XSP 5w40, which has low zinc/phos but better shear resistance than T6 or Mobil 1 TDT. [The 7.3 PSD is famous for shearing down oil.]

    Truck runs smooth with it, so it's got to be doing some good. Maybe even $45 worth per oil change...
    I used Comp Cams zinc additive just in case I did have a problem with the cam after break in, I may try something else next oil change. I'm happy with the cam, it idles at 850 in gear, still starts as easily as before, still has enough vacuum for the brake booster, and I didn't have to touch the transmission to get correct shift points. it's a little dead under 2000 rpm but still better than before but over that it seems only limited to valve springs for max rpm (I've only brought it up to 5000 because it is 43 years old.

  8. #1933
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    truckee
    Posts
    23,226
    Question for you who know cars, or think you do. 2018 Forester, starts vibrating. My son calls the dealer, they say bad gas, call us if it persists after half a tank gone and refilled. Next day the vibration is worse and the CEL goes on. He pulls over, towed to the dealer. Bad plug. Apparently all is well now. Is there any other damage that could have been caused by the bad plug that might not show up right away? I had a bad spark plug wire once--never had any problems after it was changed. I assume this would be the same situation. Thanks.

  9. #1934
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    my own little world
    Posts
    5,866
    Quote Originally Posted by Dantheman View Post
    Replaced the passenger side mirror on my truck yesterday. Fairly simple job that is only noteworthy because of why I had to do it. I was driving alongside a large Northern California lake last week at around 60 mph when a bald eagle flew out of the trees, straight into the side of the truck, and snapped the mirror clean off. The eagle flew away--I have no idea if it's still alive but it did not die on the spot.
    I can’t come up with a suitable response to this. But it deserves one.
    focus.

  10. #1935
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    the ham
    Posts
    13,384
    Quote Originally Posted by old goat View Post
    Question for you who know cars, or think you do. 2018 Forester, starts vibrating. My son calls the dealer, they say bad gas, call us if it persists after half a tank gone and refilled. Next day the vibration is worse and the CEL goes on. He pulls over, towed to the dealer. Bad plug. Apparently all is well now. Is there any other damage that could have been caused by the bad plug that might not show up right away? I had a bad spark plug wire once--never had any problems after it was changed. I assume this would be the same situation. Thanks.
    If a bad plug is all it was, then no, he's to go. Considering it's a Subaru, that might have been a bad plug seal, but same result.

  11. #1936
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Greg_o
    Posts
    2,658
    Quote Originally Posted by Mustonen View Post
    I can’t come up with a suitable response to this. But it deserves one.
    heh. Well, this isn't it, but.. This spring I was driving down a road north of town that goes through some wooded areas. Nothing ultra dense; there's old estate homes, hobby farms, golf courses etc along this stretch.

    But in a relatively denser spot a red tailed hawk flew across the road and smashed into my side window. Hit the car with such force I felt the impact with my hands on the steering wheel. The suddenness and force of the impact startled the shit out of me. I went back and checked, poor dude was very dead. Not sure what I would've been able to do otherwise.

    In my case I couldn't find a single mark on the glass. Thinking I must be mistaken about where it hit the car I looked at the rest of the side. No scratches.

  12. #1937
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    truckee
    Posts
    23,226
    Quote Originally Posted by Ted Striker View Post
    If a bad plug is all it was, then no, he's to go. Considering it's a Subaru, that might have been a bad plug seal, but same result.
    Thanks. Good to know.

  13. #1938
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    In the shadow of the wasatch
    Posts
    4,117
    glad I took care of this radiator on my tundra. And hoses, and thermostat. 5 High lifes and a shot of makers mark and we only splashed a little coolant on the floor. Last weekend was new bilstein 5100s , lower control arms, sway bar end links and tie rods. No pics of that job but all Saturday and some Sunday. A case of high life for that one. Im about to start some bodywork on the tundra soon. May switch up shit beer to Coors heavy for that, and probably some Jameson. Death, taxes and autorepairs story of my life.Click image for larger version. 

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    Bunny Don't Surf

    Have you seen a one armed man around here?

  14. #1939
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Montrose, CO
    Posts
    4,644
    ^solid work man!

  15. #1940
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    2,576
    Looking for pro tips please:
    Soaking an O2 sensor with PB blaster and it’s still seized after about 5 hours.
    Continue reapplying and exercise patients - or move on, doing ______?

    It’s no wonder a problem, rear engine and sensor is right behind rear wheel taking spray..

  16. #1941
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
    21,165
    When I've had stuck O2 sensors, I've just cut off the wire on the old sensor so I can use a regular socket, and put a big breaker bar on that socket. New sensor comes with its own new wiring anyway.

    Some heat from a propane torch can help loosen it up
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  17. #1942
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    2,576
    Good idea tho may be more difficult on my specific part. Would have to saw metal to get low enuf Click image for larger version. 

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  18. #1943
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
    21,165
    Deep socket still not long enough?
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  19. #1944
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    VT
    Posts
    224
    As mentioned, alternate PB Blaster and torch, and the deep socket and breaker bar. Most o2 sockets will just start to spin on a stuck sensor, rounding it over.

  20. #1945
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Moose, Iowa
    Posts
    7,943
    Take it for a hard drive like two full throttle 1/4 miles to get the exhaust manifold super hot. Wear gloves and protection. Pull over and remove o2 sensor as soon as possible.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  21. #1946
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    2,576

    Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

    Ok good stuff to work with. Thanks
    Ugly’s move would be slick. Problem is needing to remove rear tire to access sensor.

  22. #1947
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Posts
    107
    Quote Originally Posted by CascadeLuke View Post
    Ok good stuff to work with. Ugly’s move would be slick. Problem is needing to remove rear tire to access sensor.
    Skip the spirited drive, remove the wheel and try using a torch to heat it up instead.

  23. #1948
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Moose, Iowa
    Posts
    7,943
    My guess is you can pull in garage and remove tire and still have enough heat to remove it. Ymmv of course. Running the car before removing these is the standard way to get them out. If it is in a safe place to idle it without choking your family to death on CO a high idle would get it hot enough most likely.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  24. #1949
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    West Coast of the East Coast
    Posts
    7,752
    Father daughter project getting towed to the Ford dealer for a heart transplant.





    Many more wrenching photos to come. Engine swap was not in the cards due to space limitations and a wife that is opposed to a "Sanford and Sons" look to our home.

  25. #1950
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,281
    Quote Originally Posted by CascadeLuke View Post
    Looking for pro tips please:
    Soaking an O2 sensor with PB blaster and it’s still seized after about 5 hours.
    Continue reapplying and exercise patients - or move on, doing ______?

    It’s no wonder a problem, rear engine and sensor is right behind rear wheel taking spray..
    Are you using a 1/2" drive o2 sensor socket ? If you have top access have enough extension to clear the engine and use a pipe slipped over your 1/2" ratchet for leverage.

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