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  1. #2301
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    Googling more - and reading that you can supposedly burn out a bolt that is in cast iron, using an oxy acetylene torch. Anyone done this? I think my neighbor has an OA setup.

    Truck engine is iron block, iron heads, cast iron manifolds.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  2. #2302
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    Any reason not to use an extractor?
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  3. #2303
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    Quote Originally Posted by bagtagley View Post
    Any reason not to use an extractor?
    Like an Easy Out? Mainly because the bolt broke because it was rusted in place, so very very stuck. Most Easy Out stories seem to be not of success, but of broken Easy Out bits (which are hardened) and add to the difficulty of removal.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  4. #2304
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    It would take 10 seconds with a torch, if I have handy I'll use one but it only takes a minute to drill them out

  5. #2305
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    Quote Originally Posted by refried View Post
    It would take 10 seconds with a torch, if I have handy I'll use one but it only takes a minute to drill them out
    So no concern about heat damaging adjacent stuff? It's on the exhaust manifold, so it's something that gets hot anyway.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  6. #2306
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    Like an Easy Out? Mainly because the bolt broke because it was rusted in place, so very very stuck. Most Easy Out stories seem to be not of success, but of broken Easy Out bits (which are hardened) and add to the difficulty of removal.
    Yeah, spiral extractor. Interesting. I've had decent luck with them, but have mostly used them with stripped bolt head. Good to know they can make things worse.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  7. #2307
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    Googling more - and reading that you can supposedly burn out a bolt that is in cast iron, using an oxy acetylene torch. Anyone done this? I think my neighbor has an OA setup.

    Truck engine is iron block, iron heads, cast iron manifolds.
    I see this ending badly.

    Just drill baby, drill. Yeah, it sucks, but you know what sucks more? Fucking up with the torch.

  8. #2308
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    So no concern about heat damaging adjacent stuff? It's on the exhaust manifold, so it's something that gets hot anyway.
    It would take exactly 2 seconds with the torch, so quick nothing else is even getting hot. the bolt will just melt away. it takes longer to get the torch than it does to do the job,

  9. #2309
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    I've had good luck with easy outs. Might be worth a shot. Use the biggest size you can.

    The broken bolt may have been made brittle by prolonged heat exposure and I would not necessarily assume it's rusted in.

    The "burning it out" idea sounds like a potential disaster. Heating it up a bit to loosen it is probably fine.

  10. #2310
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    Quote Originally Posted by refried View Post
    It would take exactly 2 seconds with the torch, so quick nothing else is even getting hot. the bolt will just melt away. it takes longer to get the torch than it does to do the job,
    Have you done this with success?

    I have no experience with the OA torch, but neighbor does, so I'd ask him to do it, if it is really that quick and easy.

    For those saying it's a pathway to disaster and just drill: have you tried burning out a bolt and had it go badly? Or is this more of a general concern of "this sounds like a bad idea" -?
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  11. #2311
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    Torching seized bolts is nothing new. It's fast and effective if done properly. I think the risk is unskilled application also melting the surrounding material.

    How's the new truck search going?

  12. #2312
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    Never had one go bad, but you have to be real careful if you're burning something that attaches thin steel (like a valve cover). If your neighbor is good with a torch it won't be a problem, you'll be left with a clean hole. If he doesn't really know how to use a torch you may end up with a blob in the hole that's hard to remove with a punch and needs that needs to be retapped.

    honestly I'd just drill it, it really doesn't matter if your off center, as soon as you get close to the threads the stud will relax and come right out. You may have tap it with a sharp chisel but it will come right out.

  13. #2313
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    I've never torched one but sounds good to me. I was almost happy if it was only one fucked bolt on exhaust manifolds. I'm also usually impatient and pissed off when doing bolt extraction and have never had much luck with ez-outs etc on seized bolts. Not saying it doesnt happen but when that fucks up you're right back to drilling and its twice as much of a PITA..

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using TGR Forums mobile app

  14. #2314
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mazderati View Post
    Torching seized bolts is nothing new. It's fast and effective if done properly. I think the risk is unskilled application also melting the surrounding material.

    How's the new truck search going?
    I'm going to try drilling some more this afternoon, and if I don't get anywhere, will go see about the torch.

    On the new truck search: I spent some time researching and reading up on Ford forums. I can sign up for Ford "x plan" pricing (a little under invoice) by joining a Mustang club for $25. I'm trying to get a "personalized cash offer" (PCO), which Ford apparently does regularly for $2500-3000. It's basically a personal incentive and stacks with x plan or other discounted pricing.

    I can order exactly what I want for about $43K invoice, so if I can knock off some more via other incentives, then I'll do that. Some of the options I want don't seem to be typical dealer inventory, and they're fairly cheap from the factory - like camper package.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  15. #2315
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    I hate this fucking project...

    4.5 hours later, removed stripped bolt by grinding a notch into the ear of that EGR mount on the exhaust manifold, and cutting into the bolt. Went through a couple of Dremel discs.

    Everything is mounted back in place except for the hole that had the broken bolt. I have a bolt and nut ready to install, it fits, but I was struggling with getting a wrench on the backside to hold the nut and get it started. It was getting cold and dark. Called it a day.

    What would help is if I can find a nut on a metal strip - sort of like this, but on a longer strip:

    https://www.allmetalssupply.com/wp-c...OT-TAB-NUT.jpg

    I've had these come with trailer hitches (though those are much larger nuts) and I think with car stereo kits. Need to go dig around at an auto parts store.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  16. #2316
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    A torch doesn’t take “10 seconds” to get a manifold exhaust side stud burned out. You have to get everything good and hot before you hit the oxy and start cutting. It’s an art, not something I’d recommend a DIY tackle. You also would want to get any O2 sensors out of the way, they don’t like that kind of heat. When I was a tech earning a living in Michigan using a torch was a necessary skill, not so much here in Utah.

  17. #2317
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    Get a piece of bar stock and tap a hole in it?

  18. #2318
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    @Chup No doubt you'll get the bolt tomorrow in the light. The new truck plan sounds legit. Had not heard about PCOs.

  19. #2319
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    I hate this fucking project...

    4.5 hours later, removed stripped bolt by grinding a notch into the ear of that EGR mount on the exhaust manifold, and cutting into the bolt. Went through a couple of Dremel discs.

    Everything is mounted back in place except for the hole that had the broken bolt. I have a bolt and nut ready to install, it fits, but I was struggling with getting a wrench on the backside to hold the nut and get it started. It was getting cold and dark. Called it a day.

    What would help is if I can find a nut on a metal strip - sort of like this, but on a longer strip:

    https://www.allmetalssupply.com/wp-c...OT-TAB-NUT.jpg

    I've had these come with trailer hitches (though those are much larger nuts) and I think with car stereo kits. Need to go dig around at an auto parts store.
    Can you get a crows foot on the other side just enough to snug it up ? I think someone posted throwing some rtv on the egr valve gasket along with one good bolt and snugged up second bolt should lock it in place enough not to leak.

  20. #2320
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    A 3/8 mini impact will usually get the job done if you can get the nut on the bolt with fingers. The mini impact will spin it fast enough to let inertia tighten it.

  21. #2321
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    I think I know what will get me enough space: there's a heat shield that bolts onto the outside of the exhaust manifold, and the EGR pipe runs through it. I put the shield back on before trying to attach the EGR pipe to the manifold - and I think the heat shield is partially blocking me from getting a wrench in place to hold the nut. I think i can unbolt the heat shield and slide it over enough to give me access space.

    Thanks for the continued input, everyone.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  22. #2322
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobMc View Post
    A torch doesn’t take “10 seconds” to get a manifold exhaust side stud burned out. You have to get everything good and hot before you hit the oxy and start cutting. It’s an art, not something I’d recommend a DIY tackle. You also would want to get any O2 sensors out of the way, they don’t like that kind of heat. When I was a tech earning a living in Michigan using a torch was a necessary skill, not so much here in Utah.
    If you're only removing a broken stud there's no need to heat everything, you just touch the bolt not the surrounding area, get the stud piece red, hit the oxygen and blow it out the back of the hole. You'll have a clean hole with clean threads.

  23. #2323
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    Quote Originally Posted by refried View Post
    If you're only removing a broken stud there's no need to heat everything, you just touch the bolt not the surrounding area, get the stud piece red, hit the oxygen and blow it out the back of the hole. You'll have a clean hole with clean threads.
    I’m quite sure I’m familiar to the process.

  24. #2324
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    If you're getting a cast iron manifold "good and hot" you stand a good chance of cracking it, I'm sure you're familiar with with that.

  25. #2325
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    This is why I generally don’t post in this thread.

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